Hungarian Rhapsody #4: Mangalitsa Pork with Morels & Native Red Wine
- Mar 9
- 8 min read
After pálinka (fruit brandy), that unmistakably bitter Hungarian herbal liqueur, Unikum, and paprika, my fourth Hungaricum - a uniquely Hungarian national treasure - is… a pig.
Yes, Hungary didn’t stop at fine spirits and spices. We went straight for marbled, fatty, woolly-coated perfection: the Mangalica pig.
Also called Mangalitsa for non-Hungarians, this heritage breed nearly disappeared in the late 20th century but is now enjoying a global renaissance. Often dubbed "the Kobe Beef of Pork", its reputation is growing worldwide.
Photo credit: EH Farm
From snout to tail, the Mangalica is a true Hungaricum. Its curly coat is undeniably charming, but its signature marbled fat, rich colour, and beef-like juiciness are what make it extraordinary. The fat is high in unsaturated fats, omega-3s, and antioxidants, and its fresh, clean lard - a wholesome, delicious alternative to butter - has earned a place in kitchens across Hungary and beyond: cured into Spanish salumi, fried as Japanese tonkatsu, or thick-cut for elegant chops in North America.
The pigs themselves are instantly charming. Free-range and foraging naturally, they look more like sheep than pigs, roaming pastures in a life that’s truly pig-glamorous.
Originally bred in the 1830s by crossing fat-rich Serbian pigs with sturdy local Hungarian breeds, the Mangalica fell out of favour by the 1950s. Changing tastes and modern refrigeration pushed it to the brink of extinction. But through dedicated breeders, numbers have rebounded. From near disappearance in the 1990s to over 100,000 worldwide today, two-thirds still in Hungary.
As Hungarian breeder Péter Tóth says, "The only surefire way to protect the Mangalicas is by eating a lot of them".
🇨🇦 Local Mangalica Pork
In Canada, farms from British Columbia to Prince Edward Island are raising Mangalicas, offering richly marbled, flavourful pork close to home.
EH Farm in Wheatland County, Alberta, just outside Strathmore, is a family-owned operation specializing in pasture-raised Red Mangalica pork. Christina Stender and her family run a truly sustainable farm, where respect for the animals, the land, and flavour goes hand in hand. The pigs are raised slowly over two years on grass pastures, pesticide-free, with a balanced, plant-based, fodder-enhanced diet.
Becoming Red Mangalitsa breeders (among the very first in Canada to import the breed) marked the beginning of a genuine family adventure. The first pigs arrived in late 2016, and by early 2017, pig farming was officially underway for this happy, slightly muddy, and very determined family.
Each year, EH Farm celebrates with PigStock, a Hungarian Festival and Mangalica Cook-Out, where the community gathers to honour the iconic pig with food, music, and good company.
🏆 A personal note: One of my proudest moments wasn’t a diploma, medal, or trophy.
It was being on the winning team at the Mangalica Stew Cook-Off.
PigStock 2019 | Photo credits: Barbara Földesi
How did we do it?
The Chimney: We cooked on a homemade chimney (inside job, not WorkSafe-approved) - it created controlled, steady heat, perfect for even cooking.
The Paprika: Freshly ground from Szeged. (How it crossed borders? Classified.)
Rendering the Fat: This is where champions are separated from amateurs: we rendered the fat perfectly before cooking. Flavour doesn’t just start with fat, it demands respect.
The Wine Rebellion: White wine instead of red, and yes, it worked beautifully.
Sourdough Shenanigans: A little bread snuck into the tasting disappeared immediately. Coincidence? Probably not.
Pork + Morels
From PigStock to slow, careful cooking, one thing became clear: ingredients with character deserve respect. This is especially true for pairing Mangalica pork with morel mushrooms.
Pork and morels mushrooms are a classic, high-end pairing for good reason. Morels bring earthy, nutty depth; pork brings richness and tenderness. Together, they practically demand a cream sauce and a glass of something civilized. Mangalica being even more earhty and deep in flavour than regular pork, the choice is a no-brainer.
Morels are the crown jewels of mushrooms: wild, elusive, and packed with earthy, nutty flavour. Alberta and British Columbia morels appear in Calgary each spring, often from late May through June. A small handful is all you need to elevate any dish.
The rich, earthy Mangalica pork paired with morels practically begs for a cream sauce and a good wine.
Kadarka: The Hungarian Wine
And, as the Hungarian proverb goes - "Three is the Hungarian truth" - it was clear that this Hungarian pig and its mischievous Hussar-cap mushrooms simply couldn’t face the table without a proper Hungarian wine alongside.
We paired this duo with Kadarka (KAH-DAR-KAH), a light, spicy Hungarian red. With bright acidity, peppery notes, and delicate fruit, Kadarka complements both the earthy mushrooms and rich pork without overpowering them. It’s elegant, nuanced, and perfectly in tune with the flavours on the plate.
Kadarka is a traditional Hungarian red grape variety, best known for producing the wine of the same name. Its origins are a little mysterious (as all good characters are): some trace it back to Asia Minor, others to Albania. Even its name hints at travel and it likely comes from Shkodra (Skadar), a city in present-day Albania. The grape arrived in Hungary via the Balkans in the 18th century, after the Ottoman period, and quickly became a national favourite.
By the 19th century, Kadarka was grown almost everywhere in Hungary. Today its territory has shrunk, but its reputation hasn’t. The most celebrated expressions come from Szekszárd and the Kunság region, with honourable appearances in Villány and Eger.
What’s the grape like?
Kadarka grows vigorously, even in poor, sandy soils, and tolerates drought well. It loves sunshine, stands tall without much support, and doesn’t complain much… except when it comes to frost and rot, which it really dislikes. The grape ripens late, but because it’s sensitive, it’s often harvested earlier than ideal. In great sites and good years, though, it can reach impressive ripeness and complexity.
And the wine?
When Kadarka is happy, the wine is beautifully spicy, aromatic, and lively.
On richer, loess or clay soils, it gives deeper, more structured reds.
On sandy soils, it turns out lighter, fresher, more playful wines.
In short
Kadarka isn’t about brute strength. It’s about elegance, spice, and personality, a slightly moody, deeply charming grape that rewards patience, good terroir.
Szekszárd wine region
Szekszárd (pronounced “SEX-ARD”), a name that may get a smile at first, but it quickly earns respect in the glass. One of Hungary’s oldest red wine regions, it stretches across sunlit loess hills in the country’s warm south. Long summers and mild autumns allow grapes to ripen fully, developing silky textures and layered spice. The region’s deep, powdery soils (sometimes up to 30 meters thick) retain just enough moisture to keep vines balanced, resulting in wines that feel both generous and refined, with velvety structure and vibrant freshness.
Here, Bikavér leans elegant and spice-driven, Kadarka offers notes of sour cherry and pepper with delicate perfume, and Kékfrankos delivers structure and depth. Just a short drive from Budapest, the region combines rolling vineyard hills with glowing sunsets. The city of Szekszárd itself serves as the heart of the area, home to historic wine cellars and beautiful baroque architecture that reflect centuries of winemaking tradition.
Heimann Estate, Szekszárd
Photo credit: https://heimann.hu/en/
Heimann Családi Birtok (Family Estate) is a pioneering winery in Hungary’s Szekszárd region, with the Heimann family’s Swabian roots dating back to 1758. The modern estate was founded in 1989 by Zoltán and Ágnes Heimann, who helped redefine winemaking in the region after the fall of communism. Today, the family farms 23 hectares of prized vineyards, fully converting to organic viticulture in 2019. Their low-intervention approach, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, minimal sulphur, and aging in clay amphorae and Hungarian oak, lets the land and grapes speak for themselves. In 2016, the estate was named “Winery of the Year” by the Gault-Millau Guide.
Photo credit: https://heimann.hu/en/ Instagram: heimann_by_kadarkaman
The winery now operates two complementary lines. Heimann Családi Birtok focuses on structured, age-worthy blends like Barbár, the flagship red, and Franciscus, a bold mix often featuring Cabernet Franc and Sagrantino. Heimann & Fiai (Heimann & Sons), led by Zoltán Heimann Jr.: a tenth-generation winemaker trained internationally and known as the “Kadarka Man”, highlights Hungary’s indigenous grapes. His Kadarka and Kékfrankos wines emphasize freshness, site expression, and subtle oak influence. Together, the two ranges combine family tradition with innovation, shaping the future of Szekszárd winemaking.
Heimann Kadarka Szekszárd 2024
Style: Light-bodied and elegant, this wine is often compared to Pinot Noir for its pale ruby colour and refined, delicate structure.
Aromas: On the nose, it offers fresh red berry aromas: cherry, strawberry, and raspberry, layered with hints of rosehip and subtle floral notes.
Palate: bright and lively, driven by refreshing acidity and lifted by distinctive spice, including touches of Hungarian paprika and pink pepper.
Made with minimal intervention, it often undergoes whole-bunch fermentation and is aged in large used oak casks or stainless steel to preserve freshness.
Mangalica Pork Chops with Morels
Serves 4
Preparation Time: 25–35 min | Cooking Time: 20–25 min
Rich, earthy, and beautifully simple, a dish that lets exceptional ingredients shine.
If you’ve never cooked Mangalica pork before, this is the perfect introduction. Famous for its intense marbling and buttery texture, Mangalica delivers incredible flavour with minimal effort. A hard sear, earthy morels, and a silky pan sauce are all you need to create something elegant yet comforting.
This recipe is refined enough for a dinner party but simple enough for a relaxed weekend meal at home.
Ingredients
4 bone-in Mangalica pork loin chops (8–10 oz / 225–285 g each, about 1 inch / 2.5 cm thick)
100–150 g / 4–8 oz fresh morel mushrooms cleaned or 30 g dried morels, rehydrated
45 ml / 3 tbsp Mangalica lard, duck fat, or oil
1 large shallot, finely diced
120 ml / ½ cup dry sherry, brandy, or white wine
240 ml / 1 cup good-quality chicken or veal stock
180 ml / ¾ cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Fresh chives or parsley, finely chopped
Instructions
Bring the pork chops to room temperature for 20–30 minutes before cooking. Pat them completely dry — this ensures a beautiful golden crust. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides.
Heat a large cast iron skillet over high heat. Add the fat and allow it to heat until shimmering and just beginning to smoke. Place the chops in the pan and leave them undisturbed for 3–4 minutes to develop a deep, caramelized crust.
Flip the chops and reduce the heat to medium. Cook another 4–6 minutes, depending on thickness, until the internal temperature reaches 60–63°C / 140–145°F. Remove to a warm plate and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 5–10 minutes.
In the same pan, add more fat if needed and sauté the morels over medium-high heat for 3–5 minutes, until golden and aromatic. Add the shallot and cook until softened.
Deglaze with the sherry or brandy, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Allow it to reduce slightly, then add the stock and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook gently until the sauce thickens to a silky consistency, about 2–4 minutes.
Return the pork chops (along with any resting juices) to the pan briefly to warm through. Spoon the sauce over top and finish with fresh herbs.
Tips for Success
Ingredient Note: If you’re unable to find Mangalica pork, simply choose a high-quality, well-raised farm pork chop from a trusted butcher. Look for good marbling and a nice layer of fat; that’s where the flavour lives. If you are in Alberta, you may also want to check out the wonderful Alberta Mangalitsa Farm at https://ehfarms.ca. They are doing beautiful work raising this exceptional heritage breed locally.
Do not overcook. Mangalica is richly marbled but best enjoyed with a slightly pink center for maximum juiciness.
Clean morels carefully. They’re hollow and can trap dirt. Rinse quickly and dry thoroughly, or brush clean.
Serve with: mashed potatoes, buttered egg noodles, or roasted root vegetables to soak up the sauce.
Happy sipping and savouring!
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