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👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Every now and then, when the grocery gods are truly smiling, you’ll spot whole hens quietly tucked away at the back of the store or at the market. When I see them (usually at Save-On-Foods, sold in pairs under the very honest name Mature Small Stewing Hen ), I grab them without hesitation. They’re modestly priced for birds with this much life experience , and trust me: that experience shows up in the flavour. And a quick PSA while we’re here: don’t be fooled by the Cornish hen. That tiny, photogenic foreign bird is not a hen at all, but a very young chicken with good PR. The real stewing hens, on the other hand, are not here for weeknight shortcuts. They’re bold, full-bodied, and built for the dishes I love most: long-simmered, deeply rich soups and braises… or, today’s chosen indulgence, Coq au Vin . Coq au Vin (kok-oh-vehn, with that unmistakably nasal French ehn ) translates to rooster in wine . Traditionally or historically, yes, an actual rooster. Tough, muscular, and deeply resistant to tenderness unless thoroughly humbled by hours in a pot and a generous amount of wine. To be clear: a proper hen, or even a rooster, in the right hands, is superior. I know this because one of my best childhood food memories is my grandmother’s rooster paprikás : deeply savoury, slow-cooked, and worth every minute it demanded. When treated with respect and time, those birds deliver real flavour. But this is the 21st century. We have schedules and far less patience. So we reach for a good chicken instead, faster, gentler, and far more cooperative, while keeping the soul of the dish quasi intact. The method remains the same: long, slow braising with wine (often Bourgogne), bacon or lardons, onions, and mushrooms. Nothing flashy, just time, flavour, and the understanding that some things, much like people, get better when they’re allowed to simmer. Modern Poultry Economics Hen availability is rare (roosters are basically mythical), and no, it’s not a conspiracy, it’s modern poultry economics. As chickens age, their muscles work harder, build character, and load up on connective tissue.(Relatable). A stewing hen can be 10 months to three years old, versus the six-to-eight-week lifespan of broiler chickens. The result? Meat that refuses to be rushed and demands time, moisture, patience, and ideally, wine. Frankly, same. The industry prefers speed and efficiency: broilers for fast, plump meat, laying hens for eggs - not dinner. Once egg production slows (around 18 months), hens usually vanish into processed foods instead of grocery carts. It’s more profitable that way, even if flavour loses. Which is a shame, because these hens have depth and stories to tell—if you give them time. And wine. Always wine. When you find one, grab it. They were made for dishes like Coq au Vin. Coq au Vin - un peut d'histoire Coq au Vin  is unmistakably French, originating in Bourgogne (Burgundy, for those not currently holding a glass), it s its at the intersection of rustic French cooking and very good storytelling. It began, quite sensibly, as a way to make tough old roosters edible: through the magic of time, wine, and patience. Market poultry display in Dijon | Fifteenth century half-timbered houses in Dijon | Beaujolais wine region Somehow grew into one of France’s most celebrated dishes. Its rise to global fame came much later, thanks largely to Julia Child in the 1960s,  when Coq au Vin crossed the Atlantic and became a household name, but its roots stretch far deeper, possibly all the way back to ancient Gaul or Rome. Statue of Vercingétorix at Alesia , the Gallic leader who resisted Julius Caesar during the Gallic Wars. Photo: Gilles Detot Legend has it that during the Roman occupation of Gaul, the Gauls (ancient Celts of modern France, Belgium, and nearby parts: Iron Age, iron wills, excellent moustaches) sent a rooster to Julius Caesar as a cheeky challenge. Caesar’s response? He had his cook braise the bird in wine and send it back, deliciously defeated. True or not, the story sticks and it fits what we know: the Romans were already cooking poultry in wine, so the idea has been simmering for a very long time. Sadly, the Roman legions crushed the tribes, and Gaul became a Roman province. The rooster, however, endured as a symbol: born from a Roman pun (gallus meaning both "Gaul" and "rooster") that the Gauls eventually reclaimed as a badge of defiance. And if you think that ancient insult didn’t age well, consider this: the French national football team proudly wears the Coq Gaulois on their blue jerseys right alongside the World Cup stars. From Roman mockery to global swagger. Not bad for a bird that started out as a joke. By the Middle Ages and into early modern France, Coq au Vin was firmly a farmhouse dish. Old roosters or hens weren’t tender, but they were plentiful, and slow cooking in wine turned stubborn muscle into something deeply satisfying. What started as peasant cooking evolved into one of France’s most iconic dishes, the recipe began appearing in more formal cookbooks in the 19th century. Though Bourgogne claims the classic version, every region has put in its two cents, swapping in local wines like Riesling in Alsace or even Champagne in, well, Champagne, bien sûr. Old, comforting, and still deeply loved, Coq au Vin proves that in France, patience, good wine, and a little tradition go a very long way. Bleu - Blanc - Rouge of Chickens: The Bresse Poultry This post about a French chicken dish would be borderline ignorant if it didn’t at least tip its hat to Bresse chicken . When France talks about chicken, this is the chicken, the benchmark, the legend, the one all other birds are quietly compared against and usually lose. Leaving it out would be like writing about Champagne without bubbles or Burgundy without terroir. Simply put: if you’re talking French poultry, Poulet de Bresse deserves a seat at the table . Bresse chicken , often crowned "the Queen of All Poultry," is instantly recognizable by its chic French tricolour look: blue legs, white feathers, red comb ! It’s basically walking around in a tiny national flag. Its meat is famously succulent, rich, and deeply flavourful, the kind of chicken that makes you question every bland bird you’ve ever cooked. Granted AOC status in 1957, Poulet de Bresse comes with some very serious credentials. The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée statues guarantees that these chickens come from one specific place and are raised using strict, traditional methods. Think terroir, paperwork, and no shortcuts, all in the name of flavour. True Bresse chickens must be raised in the historic Bresse region of eastern France (in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté), roam free for at least four months, and dine on a refined menu of grass, insects, cereals, and yes, milk . Production is tightly regulated, which means they make up only a tiny fraction of France’s poultry output. In France, Bresse chicken is easy to find at quality butchers and markets. Outside France, it’s rare, occasionally appearing frozen in the U.S. or on high-end menus, usually at eye-watering prices. In Canada , availability is nearly nonexistent. But! Enter the Canadian Bresse (aka Canadian Gauloise). Raised on a few farms across the country from authentic Bresse genetics, these birds grow slower, spend more time outdoors, and pack far more flavour than your average supermarket chicken. You’re unlikely to spot one casually lounging on a grocery store shelf - this is more gourmet restaurant territory  - but it’s a very welcome solution. And if all else fails, consider this your official excuse for a culinary pilgrimage to France . 🐔🇫🇷 What Wine To Use YES, back to wine 🍷 - the most important supporting character. Sorry, I got briefly distracted by chickens, moustaches, and emperors (things I deeply enjoy and will absolutely derail me every time). Now, focus! Wine. The sauce depends on it. L'Atelier du Cuisinier , Villie-Morgon, Bourgogne, France When making Coq au Vin , the wine isn’t just an ingredient: it’s the backbone of the whole dish. So choose wisely. You want a good dry red wine that you’d happily pour into a glass and drink. If you wouldn’t sip it, don’t simmer with it. The rule is simple: wine quality matters , because whatever goes into the pot gets louder as it cooks. Long simmering doesn’t mellow bad wine, it amplifies it. The classic choice is Pinot Noir (from Bourgogne, preferably). It’s traditional for a reason: light, earthy, gently fruity, and perfectly suited to chicken and mushrooms. Think elegance, not muscle. Beaujolais  (also Bourgogne), made from Gamay, is another excellent option: bright, juicy, and forgiving. If you’re in the mood for something a little bolder, Côtes du Rhône brings deeper, spicier notes that turn the sauce into a warm hug. You can use Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon in a pinch, but tread lightly. Merlot behaves. Cabernet… likes to make itself known. Too tannic, and your sauce may start bossing you around. That said, rules are meant to be bent with good judgment, and a corkscrew. Beaujolais Villages No, I’m not completely reckless (or rich) - I went with a Beaujolais-Villages  for the sauce. The bottle that went into the stew was a more modest, perfectly respectable Beaujolais, specifically the Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages , made from 100% Gamay. Bright, fresh, and wonderfully approachable, this classic Beaujolais offers vibrant aromas of red cherry, raspberry, and violet, with a silky texture and soft tannins that make it ideal for cooking. Its lively acidity and juicy red-fruit character bring depth and balance to the sauce without overpowering the dish. With an alcohol level around 12.5% and an accessible price point typical of "Villages" wines , it’s an excellent, affordable choice that proves you don’t need an expensive bottle to achieve beautiful flavour in the kitchen. By the way, a quick Maison Joseph Drouhin spotlight: this legendary Burgundy négociant, founded in 1880 and still family-run by the fourth generation, has a portfolio that stretches far beyond our humble Beaujolais Villages. Some of their notable wines and estates include Clos des Mouches, a famous Premier Cru in Beaune producing both stunning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; parcels in Grand Cru sites like Musigny, Grands Échézeaux, and Bâtard-Montrachet; the Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis estate, known for its mineral-driven Chardonnays; and even Oregon estates, including the original Dundee Hills vineyard and Roserock in Eola-Amity Hills. For our stew, we went modest—but hey, the pedigree is there! A perfectly respectable, totally affordable, and just right for turning your stew into something rich and silky without breaking the bank. Juliénas, Beaujolais The bottle we poured with dinner was a proper Juliénas AOC . Priorities. Made also from Gamay , grown on granite-rich soils, it brings structure without heaviness: dark cherry, crushed berries, a little iron, a little earth. Juliénas sits at the northern edge of Beaujolais , just south of Burgundy proper: Bourgogne-adjacent, geographically and philosophically, often showing more backbone and savoury depth than its northern neighbours. That granite-driven tension and bright acidity make it ideal for Coq au Vin: enough grip to stand up to wine-braised chicken, enough lift to keep the dish from slipping into stew fatigue. Le Cellier de la Vieille Église in Juliénas Juliénas itself is the northernmost of the Beaujolais crus. I bravely investigated this fact with multiple glasses - consider this your excuse to read my illustrated Beaujolais travel story here. To circle back to the Roman dictator we all love to mock , Juliénas is named for Julius Caesar himself , with villages founded during his reign (100–44 BCE). Yes, that Julius. Sandals, ego, legions, the whole production. If you’ve ever watched an Astérix movie, skimmed the comics, or accidentally stayed awake in a history class, you’ll know how this went: Rome occupied Gaul (modern-day France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, plus bits of Germany and Italy), built roads, imposed order, and very politely "introduced" Roman culture. The Gauls, naturally, resisted, loudly, stubbornly, and with excellent honey mead . Colonization is complicated like that. But wine? Wine is universal. So, here we are, cooking a French dish born of Gaulish defiance, paired with a wine named after Julius Caesar - the guy who conquered the Gauls. Poetic? Sure. Ironic? Definitely. Delicious? Absolutely. It’s French, through and through. Winery: Château-Fuissé Nestled in the heart of the Mâconnais , Château-Fuissé is one of those estates that wine lovers quietly obsess over. With 40 hectares of vines spread across more than 100 tiny plots, it’s basically a terroir patchwork quilt - in the best possible way. Each climat brings its own mood, texture, and personality, and thanks to an almost uncanny understanding of their soils, Château-Fuissé turns this complexity into wines that are layered, expressive, and impossible to find boring. Le Clos is the crown jewel of Château-Fuissé: a legendary 2.7-hectare walled vineyard that literally wraps around the château and, as of the 2020 vintage, proudly wears its Premier Cru monopole status within Pouilly-Fuissé. Now, full disclosure, this is not our wine parcel (we’re firmly in Gamay territory), and this one very much belongs to the sanctified, altar-worthy world of Chardonnay. But it’s far too special not to mention. With its gentle east-facing slope and a fascinating mix of clay, marl, and flinty limestone soils, this tiny plot produces old-vine Chardonnay (some planted in the 1920s) that’s powerful yet elegant, layered with ripe stone fruit, citrus, honey, butter, vanilla, and a mineral finish that just keeps going. It’s built to age and shines with lobster, scallops, or Bresse poultry. Basically, this is Chardonnay behaving at its absolute best, and we tip our hats to it. Winemaker website: https://chateau-fuisse.fr | Photo credit: @chateau.fuisse A true family affair The story starts back in 1862 with Claude Bulland, and five generations later, the estate is now in the hands of Antoine Vincent. Every generation has added its own chapter - respecting tradition, embracing smart innovation, and gently nudging things forward without losing the plot (or the roots). Think heritage with curiosity, precision with personality, and just the right amount of Burgundian stubbornness. The kind that ages very, very well. Château-Fuissé Juliénas 2022 Poured into the glass, this Juliénas flashes a deep ruby red with a little sparkle, like it knows it’s about to be admired. The nose is all fresh flowers and juicy red fruit: peonies flirting with wild strawberries, red currants, and raspberries, with just a whisper of spice tagging along. On the palate? Smooth and elegant. Soft red plum and strawberry glide in first, backed by lively acidity that keeps everything fresh and vibrant. Then come the surprise cameos: a hint of bakery warmth, a touch of ground coffee, and a dash of white pepper. The finish is crisp, gently mineral, slightly licorice-tinged. Made from 100% Gamay in the granite-rich soils of Juliénas, and vinified in stainless steel to keep things bright and pure, this wine is polished without being precious. At 14.5% ABV, it’s lively, food-loving, and dangerously easy to keep refilling. Pair it with roast chicken, turkey, red meat, charcuterie boards that accidentally turn into dinner, tomato-y pasta, cozy pies, cheeses, or even grilled fish or: Coq au Vin (French Red Wine Braised Chicken) Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 1 hour, plus marinading time (12 hour) | Cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes A timeless, deeply comforting dish: tender chicken slowly braised in red wine, finished with bacon lardons, mushrooms, and glossy pearl onions. Ingredients Chicken/Hen 1 whole chicken or hen (1.2 kg / 2.6 lb), cut into 6–8 pieces Salt and freshly ground black pepper Ca va, ça va! You can also use drumsticks, thighs, or both , but for the love of juiciness, don’t just stick to the breast. Sacré bleu, non . Trust me, the whole bird is where the magic happens. Marinade 1 carrot, sliced 1 onion, sliced 1 celery stalk, sliced (optional) 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 bouquet garni (1–3 bay leaves, 1 sprig thyme, 1 sprig rosemary) 1 tsp / 5 g black peppercorns 1 bottle (750 ml / 3 cups) dry red wine (preferably Bordeaux) For Cooking 1½ tbsp / 20 ml olive oil or lard ⅓ cup / 50 g all-purpose flour 2 cups / 500 ml chicken stock 1 tbsp / 15 ml tomato paste 2 tbsp / 30 ml cognac or brandy (optional) 1 bay leaf Lardons 3½ oz / 100 g bacon, rind removed and cut into batons Mushrooms & Pearl Onions 3½ oz / 100 g button mushrooms, quartered 20 fresh pearl onions, peeled (not pickled) 3½ tbsp / 50 g butter To Finish ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped ** How to Cut Up a Whole Chicken (Quick Guide) Remove legs:  Cut skin between leg and body, pull back to pop the joint, and cut through. Separate thigh & drumstick:  Cut along the natural fat line. Remove wings:  Lift wing, find the joint, and cut through. Breast & back:  You can cut out the backbone and save for stock or leave it on with each breast halves. Depending in the size of your bird, cut each half into 2–3 pieces. Instructions 1. Marinate the Chicken/Hen Place the chicken/hen pieces in a large bowl with the carrot, onion, celery, garlic, bouquet garni, peppercorns, and red wine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 12 hours for deeper flavor. 2. Prepare for Cooking Preheat the oven to 200°C / 400°F. Position a rack in the middle of the oven to accommodate a large Dutch oven with its lid. Remove the chicken/hen and vegetables from the marinade and pat dry. Discard the herbs. Do not discard the wine, for the love of all things delicious . Strain the marinade into a saucepan and reserve. 3. Brown the Chicken Heat the oil or lard in a large ovenproof casserole over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces on all sides, working in batches if necessary. Remove and set aside. 4. Build the Base In the same casserole (all the flavour is here), add the bacon and cook until lightly browned. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with the cognac, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. (If skipping the cognac, use a splash of water.) Add the marinated vegetables and cook for about 5 minutes, until lightly caramelized. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Braise Return the chicken to the pot. Sprinkle the flour evenly over the chicken and vegetables, gently tossing to coat. Pour in the reserved marinade, chicken stock, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to the oven. Braise for 60–75 minutes, or until the chicken is very tender. 6. Cook the Mushrooms & Pearl Onions While the chicken braises, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pearl onions and cook until tender and lightly golden, 3–5 minutes. Remove and keep warm. In the same pan, sauté the mushrooms until they release their moisture and begin to brown, 5–8 minutes. Return the pearl onions to the pan, toss to coat, season with salt and pepper, and set aside. 7. Finish the Sauce Once the chicken is tender, remove the chicken and vegetables from the casserole with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Place the casserole over medium-high heat and reduce the sauce for about 10 minutes, until thickened and reduced by roughly half. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon. 8. Assemble Return the chicken to the pot and gently coat with the sauce. Stir in the chopped parsley. Add the mushrooms and pearl onions either directly to the pot or portion them individually when serving. How to Serve Coq au Vin Serve with something starchy to soak up the sauce: tagliatelle, mashed or steamed potatoes, crusty sourdough, or golden croutons. A simple green salad makes the perfect contrast. Bon apétit! Happy sipping and savouring!

Despite being a peak summer, en plus Saturday, we were delighted to discover the Beaujolais hills nearly all to ourselves, giving us the exhilarating sensation of being VIPs exploring a department store after hours. As we journeyed north on the Autoroute du Soleil , a sense of joy washed over us while others were caught in traffic heading south toward the Côte d'Azur and Spain. It was hard not to feel a bit smug seeing caravans of French, Dutch, and Belgian tourists inching along! Caveat lector: this blog is more than just about food and wine! In addition to my love for wine, I have a deep passion for art and the history of art and architecture (especially old, very old ones) —so deep, in fact, that I hold a somewhat impractical degree in the field. If you come across my posts about art from various wine regions (like the one below), I hope they pique your interest. But if they don’t? No hard feelings, I won't judge!  While starting an art history blog is tempting, let’s be honest: the only thing scarcer than my writing would be my blog’s readership! Cluny Abbey I initially worried that Sunday might lack excitement as we were set to visit Cluny Abbey, a true gem for enthusiasts of medieval art history ( moi! ). To our absolute delight, we were greeted by the vibrant charm of Cluny, with its picturesque Romanesque houses and quaint medieval streets bustling with life. Cluny, originally a Benedictine monastery established in 910, once stood as the heart of a monastic "empire" that boasted 10,000 monks across Europe at its peak. The church complex was even the largest Christian building in the world until St. Peter's Basilica was reconstructed in the 16th century. In the early 12th century, the order faced some challenges due to leadership changes. While the Papal Schism in the 14th century further strained the organization, it was the French Revolution that ultimately led to its suppression in France. The once-magnificent monastery at Cluny suffered partly from demolition, with its stones repurposed as a quarry until 1823. However, there’s good news for visitors today! You can still admire the impressive remnants of one transept of the abbey church, along with the elegant 15th-century residential quarters for the abbots and the charming 18th-century convent buildings. Even in their present condition, these ruins speak to the abbey's former glory and scale. I highly encourage you to climb to the top of the 11th-century defensive tower that is part of the Abbey. Although the 120 steps may seem daunting, the breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding landscape will reward your effort! The tower, known as La Tour des Fromages, literally means "Cheese Tower." It was previously called La Tour des Fèves, which translates to "The Bean Tower"- not quite as appetizing, right? The tower has a history as rich as a triple-cream Délice de Bourgogne; however, it's not named after the dairy product for that reason. In the 19th century, a clever woman transformed the tower into a cheese-drying facility. And just like that, it went from being a fortress to a cheese factory! Now, instead of guarding against invaders, it stands proudly as a monument to the glory of cheese - because who needs beans when you can have brie? Here are a couple of fantastic places you won’t want to miss: Le Potin Gourmand Restaurant - 4 Pl. du Champ de Foire, 71250 Cluny, France Nestled in a beautifully preserved 18th-century pottery workshop at the edge of the medieval town, this restaurant serves delightful classic Burgundy cuisine with a modern twist. Au Plaisir Dit Vin - Wine Shop - 19 Rue Mercière, 71250 Cluny, France With a knowledgeable staff eager to assist, you'll find an intriguing and high-quality selection of wines and spirits all tailored to fit every budget. Happy sipping and savouring!

If this title isn’t self-explanatory, no other place has inspired me to explore more than Sicily. I have visited Italy many times, but I never traveled further south than Rome. Sicily was certainly uncharted territory. This time, after spending an amazing month in Northern Italy, exploring the charm of Milan, Florence, and Venice, and the Amalfi Coast (the usual suspects for a typical Italian holiday), we ( A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 & 9) were eager to discover what Sicily had in store for us. Sicily’s incredible position between Europe and Africa has made it a melting pot of cultures for centuries, which gives the island its unique, vibrant character. Though it boasts a rich tapestry of heritage, it still often gets overlooked or left out of the typical Italian itinerary by many travellers in favour of more popular spots. Our two-week exploration of this captivating island in Italy's deep south left me eager for more, and I am not just talking about the delicious food—arancini, cannoli, and granitas! Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is a treasure waiting to be explored! To truly immerse ourselves, we picked two wonderful base towns: vibrant Palermo on the west side for the first week and charming Syracuse on the east for the second week. Palermo We rented a beautiful Airbnb in the historic Kalsa neighborhood of Palermo. Our apartment was perfectly situated above the scenic promenade and the stunning terrace of Mura delle Cattive, dating back to the late 17th century, offering breathtaking views of the sea. Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, renowned as one of Sicily's most esteemed novelists, and best known for his masterpiece The Leopard (adapted into a celebrated film in 1963 and has recently been reimagined as a Netflix series) lived in the Butera 28 apartments, just a stone's throw away, until his death in 1957. The promenade, once a stunning gem of Palermo, faced destruction during World War II, like so much of the city. Thankfully, it began its incredible journey of restoration in 1997 and reopened to the public the very next year! It’s hard to believe that such a beautiful landmark lay forgotten for decades, but now it shines brighter than ever. As you walk along the revitalized promenade, it’s easy to imagine the elegantly dressed aristocrats from Lampedusa's era stepping out of their carriages for evening strolls. The terraces may be private, but the promenade is bursting with cozy spots where you can sip a drink or indulge in some ice cream. The place is always buzzing with laughter and chatter from everyone, from sprightly 90-year-olds telling wild stories about the good old days to babies in strollers who may just be plotting world domination. It's a lively scene, even at midnight, as if the entire town collectively decided that sleep is overrated! 1. Porta Felice; 2. Marionettes at the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino; 3. Fish stall at Il Capo market; 4. Palermo street with view of the Cathedral; 5. Chess players in Monreale; 6. Palermo street with laundry hanging on lines; 7. Chiosco Vicari Piazza Giuseppe Verdi; 8. Barista at Bar del Corso,Via Vittorio Emanuele, Palermo | Credit : Sipandsavour.blog Palermo, the vibrant capital and main port of its enchanting island, offers a captivating blend of decadence and raw energy that is sure to leave an impression! While it might feel a bit overwhelming at times, especially when traveling with small children, the city has a charm that beckons exploration. Chaos is everywhere in Palermo. For motorists, traffic signs are mere suggestions. Once beautiful buildings are now crumbling and covered in graffiti. Stray dogs follow you down the poetic alleys, and self-proclaimed “security guards” promise to keep your vehicle safe—for a few Euros—as if the elderly men sitting in front of each building all day weren’t enough to ensure the area’s safety. The piazzas, filled with bustling restaurants, are always crowded, and guests seem happy to be seated outside in the dark alleys at tables that the staff have just set up for them. Losing yourself in a new city is the best way to truly experience it. To feel Palermo's pulse while enjoying unexpected culinary delights, be sure to visit a couple of street markets. They offer everything from mysterious seafood to stigghiola skewers made from lamb intestines! Sicilian Marionettes - Opera dei Pupi For a wonderful family-friendly outing, be sure to visit the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Piazza Antonio Pasqualino, 5, 90133 Palermo). This museum features a fascinating collection of marionettes from around the world and has the potential to become a must-see attraction with some added support. The incredible collection of traditional Sicilian puppets is truly a sight to behold! Anyone visiting Sicily will undoubtedly notice these charming marionettes in local shops. While they might initially seem like typical tourist trinkets, these puppets are, in fact, vital symbols of Sicilian cultural identity. They play an integral role in the Opera dei Pupi, a captivating form of Sicilian entertainment that dates back to at least the 15th century. My youngest daughter couldn’t resist spending her entire trip budget on a replica puppet—a stunning Angelica dressed in beautiful turquoise chiffon and armor. An Eclectic Architectural Journey Amidst a touch of dirt and rubble, this island shines as a captivating treasure trove of ancient, medieval, and Baroque architecture, sure to enchant anyone who explores its remarkable beauty! Palermo is a delightful gem, bursting predominantly with breathtaking Baroque architecture intertwined with enchanting medieval elements! Back in the 10th century, Robert Guiscard of the House of Hauteville embarked on an incredible adventure, leaving Normandy alongside his brother Roger to conquer Sicily from the Saracens. The Normands ended up staying for 130 years, creating stunning monuments in the unique Norman-Sicilian style . Today, these architectural wonders are still wowing visitors, making it one historic trip you won't want to miss! Must-see sites These include the awe-inspiring Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral of Palermo , the Monreale Cathedral (a half-day trip that is absolutely worthwhile), Cefalù (perfect for a day trip that pairs beautifully with some beach time or exploring the medieval castle of Caccamo ), and Messina (the essential port connecting Sicily to mainland Italy). Each of these locations is a testament to the rich tapestry of Sicilian history, and I couldn’t recommend them more. Beaches When you're in Italy with kids, a few beach days (or half-days) are non-negotiable—because let’s face it: nothing keeps the little ones happy like sun, sand, and splashing in the waves! Sicily has a whopping 1,000 kilometres (that’s about 600 miles for those not on the ‘kilometre’ train) of coastline, so you’re in for a treat. My favourite beach was hands down Mondello : clear, beautiful water and soft sandy cove beach just west of Palermo. It seemed very popular with young Sicilians and tourists as well and a fun place to get away from the chaos of Palermo and catch some rays. In a close second is San Vito lo Capo , a picturesque coastal town that’s about a two-hour drive from Palermo. It’s like a scene from a postcard, nestled under Monte Cofano, a dramatic limestone cliff that looks like nature’s crown jewel. You can also explore nearby coves and the Zingaro nature reserve.  Don't miss the stunning Lungomare di Cefalù ! Just a short distance from town, it offers breathtaking views that you'll absolutely love. With all these options, you’re bound to find a spot that’s just right for soaking up the sun and pretending you don’t hear the kids arguing over who gets the last sandcastle bucket! >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 2

When people daydream about an 8-month sabbatical in France, most people immediately picture the vibrant streets of Paris, bustling with life, with its iconic landmarks and vibrant café culture. Others might picture themselves lounging on the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean along the stunning Côte d'Azur, bien sûr . However, few think of the serene beauty of the Alpine valleys, where majestic mountains tower above lush green meadows and tranquil streams flow through picturesque villages, all while you breathe in the crisp mountain air. Now, if you’re in France specifically to learn about wine, Haut-Savoie, averaging an altitude of around 1,500 meters (that is 4921.26 feet to be precise), probably won’t be at the top of your vino bucketo listo , unless you are a high-altitude wine aficionado. But that's almost exactly where we ended up! Well, I said "almost" because we were actually closer to Grenoble, but hey, still solidly in the Alps! My husband, the true wine whisperer of the family, prefers to remain incognito—like a secret agent but with a corkscrew. He spent a season at the Domaine Dupraz winery in Savoie, where long, fulfilling days in the vineyards left him both tired and inspired by the breathtaking mountain scenery. One day, he took a moment to admire the view and, with his charmingly limited French, told the winemaker, Maxime, " Wow, what an absolutely gorgeous view you get to enjoy every single day!" The winemaker looked at him puzzled, and said with his charmingly limited English, "These are just some peaks." Well, those "some peaks" are actually the most majestic snow-capped ridges of the French Alps! I guess you can become accustomed to everything, even the most breathtaking beauty that leaves others in awe. Domaine Dupraz Nestled at an altitude of 350 to 450 meters (1100-1500 feet) on steep hillsides, Domaine Dupraz is a family-run vineyard located in the Reposoir area of Apremont. The estate benefits from a unique terroir, and its vines have been passed down from father to son since 1880, perfectly expressing the distinct climates of Savoie. Domaine Dupraz produces Altesse and Mondeuse, but they are particularly passionate about Jacquère, which the winemaker describes as “a veritable mirror of the terroir.”  The winery is certified organic since 2021. "some peaks" | Photo credit: Domaine Dupraz , Apremont, Savoie, France Bastille Day Celebration with the P étanque u Club in Chignin That year, when my husband worked at Apremont, July 14, Bastille Day, landed on a Saturday. You know, the French national holiday where everyone pretends to know how to be a revolutionary? We thought it’d be the ideal time for a little adventure, just the two of us, since the kids were off gallivanting in Hungary with friends. With the epic planning skills of a seasoned traveler and living in France for a few month by then, we packed up the car with a full tank of gas and snacks, considering we were AN HOUR away from civilization, and, I repeat, on a French! National! Holiday! We set off with high hopes, only to soon realize that nothing was open—not even the bakery just over the pass where my husband used to pick up his daily bread. I mean, his croissant, which he insisted was the best in France for reasons that defied logic, since it had no competition within a 50-kilometre radius in these mountains. Still, the breathtaking scenery felt like something out of a postcard—if postcards could cry over the absence of wine and food, that is. As we wandered through the charming village of Chignin, nestled at the foot of the Bauges Mountains, it struck me that we might end this day sorely lacking in vinous pleasures. Then, the universe delivered: we stumbled upon a group of gents who were deep into their Bastille Day celebrations. They introduced themselves as the local Pétanque / Boules Club. Yes, that’s right—men tossing metal balls around while looking mysteriously dignified. They embraced us like we were long-lost cousins and, best of all, they brought out enough local wine to put an entire vineyard to shame! I mean, who needs dinner when you have a tasting party in a park with a bunch of friendly French dudes? Thanks to the boules club, I had a tasting experience that could only be topped by winning their game—if only I had a clue how to play! Here’s a family photo to commemorate the day—because nothing says “romantic getaway” like an impromptu wine fest with a bunch of strangers playing with metal balls! Already, let’s get back to the important stuff, shall we? A Tapestry of Indigenous Alpine Wine Varietals Altesse, Roussette, Gringet, and Mondeuse may sound like names of performers from a Belle Époque cabaret in Paris, but they are actually exquisite grape varieties from the Savoie region in France. This lesser-known wine region in the Alps is renowned for its crisp, high-acid white wines and lighter-bodied reds, which are often made from these unique local grapes. Most of Savoie wine is guzzled down by locals or ski tourists, who seem to think it's essential for surviving the slopes. As a result, sadly, it barely makes an appearance on the international market. In Savoie each grape variety tells a unique story! Starting with the standout white grapes, Jacquère takes the spotlight as the most popular choice, crafting delightful, light-bodied white wines brimming with zesty citrus and crisp green apple flavours. You'll often find these refreshing wines gracing the tables of the delightful Apremont and Abymes crus, making every sip a celebration! Then we have Altesse ( aka Roussette) , renowned for its ability to create full-bodied white wines that are as intriguing as they are delicious, featuring beautiful notes of honey, nuts, and exotic fruits. Roussanne , known locally as Bergeron, brings a richer profile to the mix. This Rhône variety flourishes in the Chignin-Bergeron cru, delivering structured white wines with enchanting aromas of stone fruits and honeysuckle-perfect for those who enjoy a more complex tasting experience! Chasselas  is cultivated on the French side of Lake Geneva (although it is also found on the Swiss side, which is a different story to tell), producing delicate white wines with floral elegance. Moving on to the reds, Mondeuse is the iconic grape of Savoie, creating dark, peppery wines that are full of character. The best expressions of this grape boast impressive aging potential, promising even more delightful discoveries with time. Gamay offers a lighter touch with its fruity and approachable qualities, while the rare Persan grape is making a heartwarming comeback, capturing the spirit of this region’s rich viticultural history. The diverse wine styles of Savoie can be find under famous appellations like Vin de Savoie AOC, Apremont, Chignin-Bergeron, Arbin, Roussette de Savoie AOC, and the exciting new Crémant de Savoie AOC, known for its exquisite sparkling wines. Wines from Domaine Jean-François Quénard and Domaine de la Chancelière, both in Chignin, Savoie I hope this brief glimpse into Savoie’s unique wine landscape inspires you to explore this lesser-known gem of France, whether you're a wine enthusiast or simply seeking the region's stunning natural beauty and charming atmosphere! Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Echoes of the Alps: A Symphony of the Essence of Alto Adige Alto Adige, located in the picturesque northeastern region of Italy, has a rich and complex history shaped by its strategic position at the crossroads of the Alps. The region has witnessed early human settlements, Roman rule, and centuries of governance under the Tyrolean County, the Holy Roman Empire, and the Habsburgs of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Known as Südtirol (South Tyrol) in German, the name "Alto Adige" was coined in 1810 by Napoleon for administrative purposes, reflecting the area’s layered past. Following World War I, Italy took control of the area from the Austrians, leading to some awkward Italian classes for the locals. Ultimately, the region has attained autonomous province status, highlighting the resilience and strength of its German-speaking majority within the vibrant and unique area of Trentino-Alto Adige. Alto Adige is regarded as one of Italy's most stunning regions, thanks to the majestic Dolomite Alps which feature dramatic peaks, alpine meadows, and beautiful lakes. You can hike, ski, and mountain bike your way through this stunning region—but good luck trying to figure out if you're craving risotto or schnitzel! It's like a cultural tug-of-war, with castles photobombing your vineyard selfies. Speaking of vineyards, Alto Adige is renowned for its exceptional wines, crafted from grapes that thrive in the region's unique climate, making each sip a true taste of the local terroir. Grape Varieties Our selected wine for this article is Lagrein , a native grape variety that produces some of my favorite Italian red wines. This indigenous grape, alongside Schiava, originates from the charming town of Bolzano, the capital of Trentino-Alto Adige, where vineyards thrive in a stunning landscape characterized by diverse soil types and microclimates. The vines are cultivated at varying elevations, ranging from 200 to 1,000 meters above sea level, benefiting from the region's 300 sunny days each year. In addition to Lagrein and Schiava, the region also produces several international grape varieties, including white grapes such as Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc, as well as red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cantina Terlano Producer Website Cantina Terlano, or Kellerei Terlan in German, is a remarkable winegrowers' cooperative owned by around 143 local growers who passionately cultivate approximately 190 hectares of vineyard, also qualified for a DOC designation of origin. Since its founding in 1893, it has earned a stellar reputation as one of Italy's premier producers of exquisite, long-lasting white wines. Located in the charming village of Terlano, just north of Bolzano, its vineyards thrive on steep slopes between 250 and 900 meters above sea level. The unique red porphyry soils, rich in minerals and quartz, coupled with a climate of warm days and cool nights, create a distinctive terroir. This combination delivers wines with remarkable minerality and freshness, along with exceptional aging potential. Their fascinating historical archive, or vinotheque, proudly showcases bottles from as far back as 1955. Approximately 70% of their production features exquisite white wines, with a special emphasis on Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, the remaining 30% are red varieties, showcasing Lagrein and Pinot Noir. Cantina Terlano Lagrein | Alto Adige DOC | 2021 This wine is part of the winery's "Tradition" line, celebrating the rich heritage of Alto Adige's traditional grape varieties. The abundant sunshine in the valley allows the 100% Lagrein grapes to reach full maturity, resulting in a wine that is both powerful and elegantly refined. With a vibrant and expressive character that reflects its unique terroir, this Lagrein offers a delightful journey for the senses. On the palate, it reveals a juicy and harmonious blend of flavors, featuring intense aromas of dried cranberries and morello cherries. These fruit notes are elevated by floral nuances of lilac, adding complexity to each sip. The subtle undertones of chocolate weave through the profile, enriching the tasting experience and leaving a lasting impression. This wine is truly a celebration of its origin, crafted for those who appreciate the finer nuances of a remarkable vintage. Food Pairing Lagrein is a wonderfully versatile wine that pairs beautifully with a range of foods! For a delightful and uncomplicated option, consider assembling a charcuterie and cheese board featuring products from Alto Adige. One standout selection is Speck , which is readily available in many Italian grocery stores throughout North America. Speck Speck Alto Adige PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) European Union seal of quality ensures the product is made in the South Tyrol region using traditional, specific methods. It is made from carefully chosen pork leg, which is deboned and trimmed with precision. It's seasoned with a harmonious blend of spices that often includes salt, pepper, juniper berries, and bay leaves. After being cured and gently cold-smoked, Speck ages for months in the refreshing mountain air, allowing its exceptional flavour to develop. My Hungarian palate leans more toward enjoying Speck than Prosciutto di Parma or Jamón Ibérico. Although all three are made from the hind legs of pigs, they are like siblings who have taken different paths in life. Speck is the rebellious one, gaining a smoky flavor from its unique background that blends Northern European smoking techniques with Mediterranean air-curing,  highlighting the rich culinary heritage of Alto Adige . In contrast, Prosciutto and Jamón Ibérico are the refined scholars, relying on air-curing and thriving in the warm, dry climates of their Mediterranean homelands. Growing up, my father was known as the family ham artist, and during winter, he always had one hanging in our pantry, resembling a sort of meat chandelier. I remember as a kid looking longingly at the shiny, machine-made hams in the grocery store, dreaming of their mass-produced perfection while eyeing the rustic 'handmade' ham we had at home. Little did I know that the handmade ham was the true culinary hero all along, much like the Alpine Speck. Speck form Recla | Alto Adige PGI, a family-owned company producing Speck since 1620. The producer's website also suggests these simple pairings: "A good combination with beef olives with creamed potatoes, or braised haunch of venison with red cabbage; also with hard cheeses like mature Parmesan." Speck Wrapped Pork Tenderloin with Red Wine Reduction Serves: 4 | Prep: 10 minutes | Cook: 30 minutes Pork Tenderloin Ingredients: 8- 10 slices of Speck ham, long enough to wrap around the pork 1 1/2 times 1 lb / 500g pork tenderloin Salt and pepper 1 tbsp olive oil Instructions: Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F) or 180°C (fan). Lay the slices of ham vertically on a cutting board, slightly overlapping them. Ensure you have enough slices to wrap the pork tenderloin completely. Season the room temperature pork tenderloin generously with salt and pepper. Tuck the thin end of the fillet under to create a uniform thickness from end to end. In an oven-proof skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Sear the pork tenderloin on all sides until it is nicely browned. (Don't worry about cooking it through, as it will finish cooking in the oven.) Once browned, remove the pork from the skillet and let it cool enough to handle. To wrap the pork, place it at the end of the arranged ham strips closest to you. Use a long knife to lift the ham under the pork and roll it tightly, ensuring the ham wraps around the fillet. Finish with the seam side down. Transfer the skillet to the preheated oven and bake for 25 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the pork reaches 65°C (149°F). At the 20-minute mark, baste the pork with the pan juices to keep it moist. Remove the skillet from the oven and let the pork rest for 5 minutes. Baste once more just before serving. To serve, slice the pork into thick pieces and enjoy with the Red Wine Reduction. Serve with mash potatoes or grilled vegetables. Red Wine Reduction Serves: 4 | Prep: 5 minutes | Cook: 20 minutes Ingredients: 1/2 cup dry red wine 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed or honey pinch of salt and pepper Instructions: To make the red wine reduction, whisk together wine, balsamic vinegar, brown sugar, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer. Stir frequently to prevent the vinegar and wine from burning. Simmer until the sauce is reduced by half or reaches your desired thickness, usually about 15 to 20 minutes. Keep in mind that the glaze will continue to thicken as it cools. Happy sipping and savouring!

We had a few weeks of solo time, and a weekend getaway to the Beaujolais wine region felt like the perfect escape without the kids. Nestled just north of Lyon, Beaujolais is renowned for its eponymous French AOC wine. While it officially falls under the Burgundy wine region, Beaujolais sets itself apart with its distinct climate, grape varieties, and rich history. In recent years, the region and its wines have gained popularity, emerging from the shadow of Burgundy to capture the attention of wine enthusiasts. Villefranche-sur-Saône Our journey began in Villefranche-sur-Saône, the capital of the region. We explored a lively indoor market where we picked up everything needed for the perfect picnic: creamy goat cheese, fresh vegetables, and some local specialties with names that sounded far too fancy to pronounce - like grattons (crispy fried pork bacon) and fromage de tête (head cheese) - the kind of delicacies that makes you question all your life choices. Also, let's be real: there is nothing quite like the delightful chaos of a Saturday market in a French town! Oingt Next, we ventured to Oingt, located in the beautiful Pierres Dorées (Golden Stones) region. Often praised as one of France's most picturesque villages, Oingt features charming narrow streets, quaint galleries, and ochre-yellow stone houses that transport you back to medieval times. We savoured our lunch - the exquisite yet questionable market finds - atop a hill, surrounded by the breathtaking rolling hills and vineyards that make Beaujolais so special. From lovely Oingt, we headed directly to the epic Beaujolais Crus regions - this is where our wine adventure truly begins! Unlike in Burgundy and Alsace, the term "cru" in Beaujolais refers to entire wine-producing areas rather than individual vineyards. In the Beaujolais Cru lineup, which is listed from south to north, we have an impressive selection:  Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Juliénas, and the charmingly named Saint-Amour. You might notice that many producers shy away from putting "Beaujolais" on their labels. Why, you ask? Because they want to maintain a classy vibe and keep une certainedistance from those mass-produced Nouveau wines. In fact, vineyards in the cru villages are not allowed to produce Nouveau at all. Morgon We visited The Caveau du Cru Morgon that serves as the heart of the Morgon appellation's winemakers. This cellar welcomed us with its extensive collection of Morgon wines, showcasing the rich diversity and unique characteristics of the region. As we browsed through the carefully curated selection, we discovered great wines at a range of price points, allowing us to experience the exceptional quality and craftsmanship that Morgon is known for. The atmosphere was lively and educational, making it a delightful place for both seasoned connoisseurs and newcomers alike. Moulin-à-Vent Quelle surprise! In Moulin-à-Vent there is indeed a moulin à vent, a windmill, that demands to be photographed! Seriously, if you don’t take a picture, does it even exist? It’s like the Mona Lisa of windmills - it needs its moment in the spotlight! Juliénas We concluded our visit to Beaujolais at Le Cellier de la Vieille Église in Juliénas -  mais oui , it's a wine cellar with a twist as it is in a former church! After being deconsecrated in 1868, this holy haven became a shrine to wine, thanks to the enthusiastic efforts of Victor Peyret, an incredibly generous local who obviously loved his grapes. Today, it’s the go-to spot for Juliénas residents and visitors, especially during the annual Wine Festival, where the only sin is not having a good time. Picture wine lovers clinking glasses, sharing stories, and trying to remember where they parked their deux chevaux ! The Prize is awarded to the top advocates of the Juliénas vintage - journalists, writers, and artists - all of whom are casually judged by Bacchus, the slightly tipsy god of wine, who definitely knows how to throw a party. Cheers to that!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. The first inhale of La Oveja stopped me in my tracks. Its aromas were disarmingly comforting, like stepping into a home you’ve never been to but somehow remember. That sense of warmth makes perfect sense once you know its maker: Julia Zuccardi of Bodega Santa Julia in Mendoza, Argentina , a winery built on three generations of family devotion. The label — a little sheep drawn by her children — says everything. As Julia describes their work, it’s a “CUESTIÓN DE FAMILIA” - truly, a family matter. I’ve never been to Argentina, but this wine made me travel thousands of kilometres, miles, furlongs, however you want to measure a daydream. La Oveja whisked me straight to Mendoza without even checking a passport. And then I saw the photos of the winery… and my wanderlust went from “mild curiosity” to “start packing a suitcase immediately.” The light, the colors, the ease of it all—there was a warmth in those scenes that felt both foreign and achingly familiar, like remembering a place you’ve never actually been. Suddenly, Mendoza wasn’t just a dot on a map; it felt like a promise. A slower rhythm. A wide horizon. A sense of belonging that waits for you long before you ever arrive. This wine didn’t simply make me imagine Argentina—it made me crave  it. The space, the sun, the serenity. The feeling of being welcomed into a place where life is lived generously and from the heart. Here are some — judge it for yourself: All photo credits: Santa Julia Winery La Oveja - Torrontés Natural La Oveja is an exquisite organic white wine made entirely from 100% Torrontés grapes. This remarkable wine offers an exhilarating and aromatic experience, bursting with vibrant flavours of succulent peach, white pear, fragrant lychee, orange blossom, and hints of citrus zest . Each sip reveals a captivating complexity on the palate, perfectly balanced with a mineral-driven freshness and enticing aromas of white fruits that exude elegance and charm. With its low sugar content and minimalist approach to winemaking, this wine celebrates the purity of its ingredients and showcases the beauty of craftsmanship - all at an impressive price point. Produced using sustainable and organic practices, with no wood aging, and some versions are "No Sulphites Added" (NSA). Just remember, indulging in this beauty is like inviting a fun-loving sheep to your dinner party—utterly delightful and slightly mischievous! Thai White Fish in Spicy Coconut Sauce with Tender Greens Serves 2 | PREP TIME 20 minutes | COOK TIME 20 minutes Course: Main, Pescatarian For our couple's dinner, I decided to elevate the experience by pairing this delightful wine with a sumptuous Thai fish entrée, beautifully infused with spice and ginger. The combination was nothing short of heavenly, perfectly complementing the vibrant essence of La Oveja. Thai-Inspired Coconut Poached Fish features a fragrant, slightly spicy aromatic broth and perfectly cooked fish served on a bed of tender greens and rice. Ingredients 400-450 grams / 1 lbs firm white fish, such as halibut or cod, cut into smaller cubes Salt to taste 2 tbsp flour 2 Tbsp. cooking oil (avocado, olive or coconut oil) 1 small white onion, or 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 to 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 1 Thai chile, thinly sliced (remove seeds for less heat) - optional 1 can (400 ml / 13 1/2-oz) coconut milk 1 cup seafood or chicken stock 1 tsp. fish sauce 1/2 lime, zest and juice, divided 2 handfuls fresh spinach 1/4 cup fresh or frozen peas Fresh cilantro leaves and stems, for garnish 1 to 2 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish Jasmine rice for serving Instructions Season the fish fillets evenly with salt and coat them lightly with flour. Shake off any excess flour. In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat and sauté the fish fillets in batches until they are lightly caramelized. Set them aside. Using the same skillet, add onion and cook for about 5 minutes until it becomes softened. Then stir in garlic, ginger, and chili, cooking for an additional 2 minutes until fragrant. Next, add coconut milk, peas, seafood stock, fish sauce, and lime zest to the skillet. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, then stir in the spinach until it wilts. Nestle the fish fillets into the coconut broth, ensuring they are mostly submerged, and reduce the heat to low. Cover the skillet and cook until the fish is just cooked through and opaque, approximately 4 to 6 minutes. After removing the lid, add a good squeeze of lime juice (start with about 1 tablespoon, taste, and adjust as needed). Garnish with cilantro and scallions, and serve the fish and coconut broth over jasmine rice. Happy sipping and savouring!

Liquor : Digestif / Cocktails | Isère, France | Website 👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. La Chartreuse: The Queen of Liqueurs, A Heritage of Flavour and Craftsmanship Many people associate "Chartreuse" with a vibrant and lively green, reminiscent of fresh spring leaves and lush forests. This beautiful color is inspired by a remarkable liqueur of the same name, which draws its origins from the majestic Chartreuse Mountains in southeastern France. Crafted with love by the dedicated Chartreux monks (also known as Carthusians) in their historic distillery, this exquisite liqueur is located in the Isère region, just a short 25 kilometres from the city of Grenoble, where my family happened to enjoy eight wonderful months. Monastère de la Grande Chartreuse, Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse, France | Sip & Savour You are stepping into a medieval mystery steeped in history as you discover Chartreuse, a fascinating liqueur with a recipe cherished for over 400 years. This unique blend comprises 130 different ingredients, and its closely guarded formula is known only to two friars at the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse. The recipe is recorded in a 17th-century manuscript, kept in a secret safe accessible only to the superior of the Carthusian order. Le Granier en Chartreuse (Entremont-le-Vieux) | Sip & Savour Inside the Grande Chartreuse Monastery, an impressive 24 tons of hand-selected herbs, plants, and flowers are carefully dried, crushed, and blended in their Herb Room, guaranteeing a perfect mixture every time. This artisanal process culminates in the exquisite blends being transported to the distillery. In 2018, the distillery found its new home at the Aiguenoire Distillery in Entre-deux-Guiers, nestled deep within the stunning Chartreuse massif, after many years of production in Voiron. There, the herbs undergo a careful maceration in alcohol and are distilled using state-of-the-art stainless-steel stills. The resulting liqueur then gets to enjoy a nurturing aging process in French and Hungarian oak casks. After a few years of aging, the monks taste the liqueur to decide when it’s just right for bottling, putting their expertise to use with careful consideration. Half of the plants used in this liqueur come from the Alpine region. Some of the notable plants include: juniper berries, vulnéraire , centaury, citrus rind, cinnamon , mace , lemon balm , dried hyssop flower tops, peppermint , thyme , costmary , arnica , genepi , angelica roots, olive leaves, centella asiatica, ginkgo biloba, safforn, and fennel seeds , and that yellow chartreuse is similar to above, adding cardamom seeds and socctrine aloes . Cellar tours at the Caves de la Chartreuse in Voiron For those interested in this captivating story, the Caves de la Chartreuse in Voiron offers delightful cellar tours that reflect the monastic origins of Chartreuse. A major highlight of the visit is the opportunity to see the world's largest liqueur cellar, featuring massive oak vats that are used for aging the spirits. While the main distillation and aging operations have moved to a new facility nearby, the historic cellars and a special "single cask" aging process are still maintained at the Voiron site. Visitors of legal drinking age will find even more delight, as the tour concludes with a complimentary tasting! You can also stop by the on-site cocktail bar to sample different varieties and unique cocktails. The well-stocked gift shop offers a wide range of Chartreuse products, including exclusive bottles like the Foudre 147, which can only be purchased there. Costs of tour around 12 euros/person,  approximatively 1h15 long. Types of Chartreuses Chartreuse originally boasted an impressive alcohol content of 69%, and it was primarily viewed as a medicinal beverage. Over time, it gained popularity among locals as an effective digestive aid. In 1784, a monk made adjustments to the recipe, sweetening it and lowering its alcohol content. Today, the distillery produces a variety of Chartreuse offerings, including Vert/Green Chartreuse, Jaune/Yellow Chartreuse, Elixir, Special Cuvées, and Exceptional Cuvées. - Green Chartreuse (Vert) : This version has a strong herbal flavour and an alcohol content of 55°. "A powerful herbaceous, peppery nose, a fresh palate with minty notes, pine sap and citrus fruits. Bittersweet tea at the end of the mouth prolongs the tasting." - Yellow Chartreuse (Jaune) : A sweeter and milder variant (43°) that features "A fresh and spicy nose. A soft structure. Scents of turmeric, citrus and anise. Floral notes extend the tasting." - L'Élixir végétal de la Grande-Chartreuse : This is made according to the original recipe from 1605, with an alcohol content of 69°. It can be consumed as a grog, in infusions, or on a piece of sugar. It is sold in small, wooden-covered bottles. - Special Cuvées: Representing more recent vintages, these blended liqueurs crafted from Jaune and Verte Chartreuse, providing discerning aficionados with an even broader spectrum of tantalizing scents and flavors to explore. - V.E.P. ( à Vieillissement Exceptionnellement Prolongé ): The talented brothers expertly craft a remarkable cuvée that undergoes an extended aging process in carefully selected oak barrels. This meticulous method imparts a rich complexity and depth of flavor that sets it apart. Available in both the vibrant Yellow and the lush Green varieties, each option presents its own unique tasting experience. If you ever get the chance to savor this exquisite cuvée, don't hesitate—it's an extraordinary journey for the palate! Just keep in mind that this exceptional quality comes at a premium price. What's the best way to enjoy it? Locals love it straight, chilled, but room temperature is also delightful. In a tulip glass or a Cognac glass; just be cautious with ice cubes as they can disrupt the liqueur's structure. This liqueur is increasingly prominent in creative cocktails worldwide and is a favorite among pastry chefs in Voiron and the Isère region of France, who skillfully incorporate it into their delectable desserts. Enjoy its versatility! Chartreuse Tiramisù SERVINGS 9 | Preparation: 25 minutes, plus 4 to 24 hours' chilling Indulge in this creamy, decadent tiramisu recipe that effortlessly combines rich coffee with the unique herbal notes of Chartreuse liquor-soaked ladyfingers. The layers of velvety mascarpone create a luscious texture that melts in your mouth, while a generous dusting of rich cocoa powder on top adds a delightful contrast. This irresistible dessert is guaranteed to be a captivating conversation starter at your dinner table, so take a moment to brush up on the fascinating history of Chartreuse! The addition of this distinctive liquor enhances the classic Italian dessert, infusing it with an extraordinary depth of flavour that is sure to impress your guests. Ingredients 1 package (24) Lady Fingers (Savoiardi) 4 large egg yolks , cold 1/4 cups / 60 ml heavy whipping cream 16 ounce / 450 g mascarpone cheese at room temperature 1/3 cup / 65 g granulated sugar 1 teaspoon / 5 ml vanilla extract 1 cup / 240 ml brewed cold espresso 1/3 cup / 80 ml green or yellow Chartreuse Cocoa powder for dusting the top (about 2 tablespoons) You’ll need an 8×8-inch / 20x20 cm (or similar-sized) pan. Instructions Add whipping cream to a mixing bowl and beat on medium speed with electric mixers or a stand mixer. Gradually add sugar and vanilla extract, continuing to beat until stiff peaks form. Beat in the eggs one by one. Gently fold in the mascarpone cheese until thoroughly combined. Set the mixture aside. In a shallow bowl, combine coffee and the Chartreuse liqueur. Quickly dip the ladyfingers in the coffee, ensuring they are just moistened without soaking, and lay them in a single layer at the bottom of the pan. Spread half of the mascarpone mixture evenly over the ladyfingers. Add another layer of dipped ladyfingers and then smooth the remaining mascarpone cream over the top. Generously dust cocoa powder over the top using a fine mesh strainer for an even distribution. Refrigerate for at least 3-4 hours or overnight before serving to allow the flavors to meld. Notes: Make-Ahead Instructions: tiramisù tastes even better when prepared in advance, allowing the flavors to develop. It can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Notes: I often get the question, "Do I really need to use mascarpone for tiramisù?" And my answer is a mix of yes and no! Traditionally, tiramisu uses this special Italian dairy, which brings a lusciously light texture and a subtle flavor that elevates the dish. As many of you may know, tiramisù is a modern dessert and it hails from northern Italy and made its debut in the 1960s. Its charming name translates to "pick me up," perfectly capturing its essence with invigorating ingredients like coffee, mascarpone, eggs, and ladyfingers—simply perfect for a little boost after a long day! Now, while I cherish the authentic mascarpone, I’m all for flexibility in the kitchen! Sometimes, I swap it out for full-fat cream cheese. It’s a fantastic option that’s more accessible and budget-friendly! Just keep in mind, it creates a denser texture, so I recommend folding in some more whipped cream for that delightful fluffiness we all love. Enjoy your Tiramisù Adventure! Happy sipping and savouring!

I may have shared this previously, but we were fortunate to spend a few months in France - where we not only perfected our ability to eat cheese and baguettes like a pro, but also toured some charming wineries. O ne of the highlights was Château de la Roche aux Moines, the estate of celebrated winemaker Nicolas Joly . The surname "Joly," which translates to "pretty" or "cheerful," perfectly captures the joy we experienced during our time at this remarkable location, where the art of winemaking flourishes amidst a stunning setting. This estate includes the prestigious, privately owned Clos de la Coulée de Serrant vineyard, which is renowned for producing some of the world’s most unique and age-worthy dry Chenin Blanc wines, produced through biodynamic farming in the Loire Valley of France. Château de la Roche aux Moines , Savennières France | Website In December 2018, just after Christmas, we had the pleasure of visiting the estate. We arrived with modest expectations, only hoping to see the old gates of the château . To our delight, they were open, inviting us into the beautiful grounds of the winery. Snow rarely falls in the Loire Valley in December, instead, the weather often brings mist and rain, covering the landscape in a soft fog. We walked through this winter scene, enjoying the quiet beauty of the season and discovering the charm of a hidden gem. We were warmly welcomed by a lovely lady who truly made our visit memorable. She generously shared her insights about the estate and invited us to savor some exceptional white wines produced on-site. We couldn't resist purchasing a couple of bottles, and to our surprise, she offered us the open bottles for tasting, ensuring they wouldn’t go to waste! While I’m unsure about the regulations for transporting open bottles in France (unlike Canada, where it’s strictly prohibited), we decided to embrace a little adventure, taking the risk with both our reputations and wallets by bringing those treasures with us. Our journey was just beginning in the stunning Loire Valley, and we were buzzing with excitement as we headed toward the enchanting Loire châteaux with some "Jolys" in our trunk. Winemaker Extraordinaire: Nicolas Joly and Biodynamic Viticulture Nicolas Joly is a significant figure in the wine industry for several reasons. As a pioneer of biodynamic viticulture, Joly converted his family estate to this method in 1984—long before it became popular or had its own Instagram hashtag. His passion for natural winemaking and commitment to honoring the land have not only made him a talented winemaker but also a kind of vinous superhero in the industry. Joly emphasizes the importance of soil health and natural cultivation methods, believing that healthy vines produce grapes of the highest quality. His philosophy is rooted in the principles of biodynamic agriculture, which harmonizes farming with the lunar calendar and incorporates natural preparations to enhance biodiversity and vitality in the vineyard. Biodynamic viticulture is a holistic approach to grape growing that treats the vineyard as a vibrant ecosystem. By combining organic practices with elements of spirituality and cosmic awareness, it completely avoids synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. Instead, it harnesses the natural dynamics of the farm and uses specific preparations that often align with lunar and planetary cycles for activities like planting and pruning. This method fosters a balanced and sustainable environment, resulting in high-quality grapes that beautifully express their unique terroir. It’s an exciting way to appreciate nature! Nicolas Joly - Credit: @ couleedeserrant Nicolas Joly's journey to becoming a prominent figure in biodynamic viticulture is truly inspiring. His story begins just one generation earlier with his parents, André, a surgeon, and his wife Denise, who came from Angers, a city in western France located beside the Maine river at the edge of the Loire Valley. Although they never intended to enter the world of viticulture, their quest for a peaceful retreat in the countryside unexpectedly led them to own a vineyard. The estate has a fascinating history, tracing back to a 12th-century Cistercian monastery, with remnants that still captivate visitors today. For centuries, its lush vineyards have been dedicated to winemaking. When the Joly family acquired the estate in the 19th century, it included several plots from the esteemed cru-level parcels of Roche aux Moines and other Savennières vineyards. However, the estate required care and attention when they took it over. Denise assumed the role of winemaker, making every effort to nurture the vineyard. Meanwhile, Nicolas traveled to the USA for his education, earning an MBA from Columbia University and building a successful career in finance with JP Morgan. Nicolas & Virginie Joly - Credit: coulee-de-serrant.com In 1976, when Nicolas returned home to support his now widowed mother, he made a wise decision: he enrolled in an oenology program in Bordeaux for two years to prepare himself. Armed with knowledge and new perspectives, Nicolas took the reins of the estate, but the real breakthrough came in the 1980s. It all changed when he discovered a fascinating book on biodynamic agriculture by the visionary philosopher Rudolf Steiner during a skiing holiday in 1981. It ignited a passion in him that transformed his approach to viticulture. Within four short years, he adopted biodynamic principles for the estate and emerged as a leading advocate for this sustainable practice. Today, Nicolas Joly's dedication to biodynamic viticulture is celebrated worldwide, now with her daughter, Virginie at his side, the domaine hid showcasing the beautiful connection between nature, care, and exceptional winemaking! Nicolas Joly has written numerous books about biodynamic wine, such as Le Vin du ciel à la terre (Wine from Sky to Earth) aimed at winegrowers, and Le Vin, la Vigne et la Biodynamie (What is Biodynamic Wine? / Biodynamic Wine Demystified) targeted at consumers and have been translated into several languages, including Spanish, German, Italian, Hungarian, Japanese and many others. Clos de la Coulée de Serrant (Monopole) The Clos de la Coulée de Serrant is a historic and highly regarded French wine estate that holds its own exclusive appellation (AOC) within the Loire Valley. This little gem is a “monopole”, fancy word to say it is a single-producer appellation, entirely owned and operated by a single family, the Jolys. The exceptional Chenin Blanc cultivated here elegantly expresses its rich terroir. The grapes are sourced from 40 to 50-year-old vines spread across 7 hectares. Cultivated since 1130, and is situated on steep slopes with a southward exposure, resting on shale and quartz soil. With remarkable intensity and complexity, this iconic limited wine captures the true essence of the estate and exhibits incredible aging potential, promising a delightful experience for years to come. The Chenin Blanc Grape The star of the show at Château de la Roche aux Moines is the Chenin Blanc grape. While Chenin Blanc is often seen as a budget-friendly(er) option, there is so much more to it! High-quality Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley is an exceptional choice that can age beautifully, making it a true hidden gem for those in the know. Its versatility is remarkable, offering a range of styles from dry to sparkling, and even sweet dessert wines. This variety is a significant strength, though it may pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with it. Lacking a single, well-known style, the grape does not have the clear brand identity that has contributed to the popularity of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. I will stop complaining and simply enjoy it until its world domination and higher prices arrive. @ couleedeserrant | La Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc is the wine grape equivalent of that friend who can switch styles effortlessly- sometimes crisp and refreshing like a cool breeze, other times sweet and indulgent like a guilty pleasure! In cool climates, such as France's Loire Valley where it originates, the focus is on mineral-driven flavors with hints of green apple, quince, lemon, and white flowers. Notable regions for this grape include Vouvray and Savennières. However, in warmer regions like South Africa, Chenin Blanc transforms into a tropical extravaganza, featuring flavors of ripe pear, peach, pineapple, and mango. Oak aging is more common in this style, which can introduce notes of vanilla and smoke. Aged Chenin Blanc can develop complex flavors of honey, baked apple, ginger, and marzipan. For dessert enthusiasts, there is botrytized Chenin Blanc, which is produced from grapes affected by "noble rot." These rich wines are concentrated with flavors of apricot, honey, and marmalade. Tasting Notes In 2024, we opened a bottle of CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2015 that we had purchased from Joly. The wine introduced us to a rich aroma with notes of glue, honey, and herbs. Upon tasting it, we were pleasantly surprised by its spiciness and smooth alcohol content. As it aired, additional aromas of leather and wood emerged, balancing the wine beautifully with hints of dried fruit and creaminess. Despite its strong alcohol content of 15%, the wine became much more enjoyable when exposed to air. Relatively speaking, this wine is not as expensive as one might expect given its quality and reputation. If you find any Joly wines in Canada, they are definitely worth trying at least once in a lifetime! Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Magic in a Bottle: The Old Tradition of Tokaji Wines If I were forced to choose my last meal, well, it would be a rillette or pâté, preferably foie gras, but a good country pâté would suffice! And, of course, what could pair better with that final meal than an expensive late-harvest wine, its sweetness and complexity unfolding like a beautiful final chapter as I sit beneath the gallows, savouring each poignant moment. And since I have close ties to the area, a Tokaji would be just perfect! While I am certainly not a witch, and the above scenario is very unlikely, it's interesting to note that Tokaj, renowned for its unparalleled wines, also has a rich tapestry of folklore that celebrates its status as a legendary home for witches - of course, all this in the dark middle ages! Nowadays, you’ll rather find some incredibly talented women winemakers in Tokaj, and their skills can truly feel like sorcery! If you’re looking to expand your palate, consider trying Tokaji. It’s an excellent choice, especially if you're a fan of sweet wines like French Sauternes or German and Canadian Ice Wines. These exceptional dessert wines are equally delightfull paired with blue cheeses and pâtés. Both Tokaji and Sauternes are renowned sweet wines made from grapes affected by the Botrytis cinerea fungus, the "noble rot". In contrast, Ice Wine is unique in that it's made from grapes that have naturally frozen on the vine. When comparing the two "noble rot" wines, the Hungarian Tokaji stands out for its rich, complex flavors and vibrant acidity, while Sauternes from Bordeaux is known for its creamy texture and sophisticated sweetness. The Many Styles of Tokaji Grape varieties of the Tokaj wine region or Tokaj - Hegyalja in Hungarian, are Furmint, Hárslevelű, and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grapes. In the Tokaji lineup , the star of the show is definitely the famous Tokaji Aszú , a delectable sweet wine made from uniquely shrivelled grapes affected by "noble rot." The sweetness level of the wine is traditionally indicated by the number of "puttonyos." A puttony is a large basket, approximately 25 kg, used to measure the amount of aszú berries added to a gönc cask, which has a capacity of 136 liters. The greater the number of puttony , the sweeter and more expensive the wine becomes. Szamorodni brings its own magic, available in both dry (száraz) and sweet (édes) styles made from a combination of ripe and shriveled grapes. This full-bodied, complex white wine boasts a balanced profile with flavors that can include dried figs, apricots, honey, and spices. Szamorodni is generally more affordable than Tokaji Aszú, as its production is less labor-intensive. Although it is made from a blend of grapes - some of which may exhibit "noble rot" (botrytis) - it does not follow the specific and highly selective "puttonyos" system used for Aszú wines. Eszencia  is created from the free-run juice that drips naturally from vats filled with individually hand-selected, botrytized  aszú  berries. Unlike other Tokaji wines like Aszú, no base wine is added to dilute its intensity. it ferments for years due to its extremely high sugar content. The outcome? A low-alcohol, honey-like treat that's so decadent, it’s often served by the spoonful. Why settle for a glass when you can indulge in dessert with a spoon? But the excitement doesn’t stop there! Modern Tokaj produces stunning dry wines, often highlighting the fabulous Furmint grape, along with delightful sparkling wines crafted using traditional methods. One hidden gem I adore is the  Fordítás  - it's flavourful and an amazing value! I have to admit, I was late to the Fordítás party. I stumbled upon it about 10 years ago when my father and some relatives, who live just across the Tisza River from Tokaj, decided to drag my family to a traditional wine cave with temperatures soaring over 40°C. So, the last thing I wanted was a syrupy-sweet wine! Then my relatives casually dropped the name Fordítás, which literally means "turned over." At first, I was baffled, picturing them discussing some intricate knitting technique. But when they finally poured the wine, I’m pretty sure the angels sang! Fordítás is crafted by pouring new wine or must over the lees of previously pressed aszú grapes, then pressing it again. This process uncovers additional layers of flavour and sweetness, making the wine uniquely enjoyable. Credit: Zsirai Pinceszet Zsirai Winery's Fordítás Producer Website Zsirai Winery's Fordítás embodies this approach: it is sweet, has a low alcohol content of 10%, yet possesses enough acidity to quench your thirst and delight your taste buds. This family-owned winery is run by sisters Petra and Kata, along with their mother. Located in the town of Mád in the Tokaj region, the family also owns vineyards in Villány and Somló, covering a total of approximately 15 hectares. Fordítás is aged for 14 months in 220-liter Hungarian barrels, which enhances its complexity, texture, and flavors derived from the oak. Hungarian oak, known for its tight grain, adds structure, spice, and a balanced maturation. This aging period allows for significant flavour development, introducing tertiary aromas and creating a more structured mouthfeel compared to wines that undergo shorter aging processes. Let's raise a glass and say "Egészségedre!" (cheers in Hungarian). With that spirit, let's prepare some duck rillette! Duck Rillette with Caramelized Shallots Servings: 10 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 2 hours | Refrigeration: 2-3 hours Course: Appetizer, Snack With their creamy, spreadable texture and the rich flavor that comes from slow-cooking duck meat in its own fat, they surpass regular pâté in both taste and satisfaction. This savory delight is crafted from just four simple ingredients: duck meat, duck fat, salt, and pepper. The French typically make rillettes from pork or duck or goose or rabbit. Consider this is like a fancier, old-school take on your regular canned meat - just a lot more spreadable and way tastier! Caramelized shallots have a sweet and savory flavor. They are prepared by slowly cooking sliced shallots in oil and butter over low heat until they become tender and golden brown. Serve with sourdough bread and enjoy the authentic, bold flavours! Duck Rillette Ingredients: 4 duck legs 1/4 cup brandy (such as Armagnac, Cognac ) or dry white wine or dry vermouth 400 ml (approximately 1.5 cups) duck fat 4 cloves of garlic salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 sprigs fresh thyme or other aromatics Instructions: Preheat the oven to 165°C /325°F. In an oven-proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of duck fat over medium heat. Add the duck legs and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until they are browned. Pour in the liquor and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, allowing the liquid to evaporate completely. Next, add the remaining duck fat, garlic, and aromatics. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add half a cup of water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then transfer it to the preheated oven and cook for 2 hours. Once the cooking time is up, and when the meat is falling off the bone, turn off the heat and let the duck legs cool. When it is cool, pull off the skin and discard or cut it into the spread, then shred the meat and place in a large bowl. Add 2 tbsp of the duck fat you have left in the pan to the rillettes and beat together with a stout wooden spoon until the liquid is incorporated. Keep adding duck fat until the mixture becomes creamy. Do this little by little Check the seasoning, if needed add more salt and pepper. Transfer the rillettes to an airtight container . Top with about 1/4 inch of duck fat. Cover with a lid and r efrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. You can enjoy your rillettes for at least two months! If you make sure there are no air pockets and it's nicely covered in fat, they can last for up to six months. Caramelized Shallots Servings: 10 | Preparation: 15 minutes | Cooking: 20-40 minutes Ingredients: 10-12 large shallots, thinly sliced 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp unsalted butter 2 tbsp light muscovado sugar (or brown sugar) 1 cup red wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste  Instructions: Preheat your oven to 200°C /400°F. Peel the shallots, removing their outer skins. Slice the shallots in half or into quarters, depending on their size; this will allow them to caramelize beautifully during roasting. Arrange the sliced shallots in an ovenproof dish, ensuring they are spread out evenly for optimal cooking. Drizzle olive oil and rich balsamic vinegar over the shallots, add butter, then toss them gently to coat each piece in the mixture. Place the dish in the preheated oven and let the shallots roast for 20 to 40 minutes. The roasting time will depend on the size of the shallots and the depth of the dish, allowing them to develop a mouthwatering, golden-brown colour and a tender, melting texture. Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Whispers of the Vineyard: The Legacy of Kékfrankos from West Hungary Péter Wetzer crafts wonderfully eccentric wines in the storybook hills of Sopron, right where Hungary politely bumps elbows with Austria. His vineyards—some so remote they feel like they’ve wandered off on purpose—sit in dramatic landscapes shaped by the famously bossy Pannonian wind. Each little plot has its own personality, and they’re not shy about expressing it in the glass. Péter farms organically with the tenderness of someone who genuinely chats with his vines (I cannot confirm this, but it feels true). His 2.5 hectares are basically a tiny, thriving nature documentary, complete with happy flora, curious fauna, and very judgmental ladybugs. Everything is done by hand, because of course it is. Down in his old cellar, the wines ferment spontaneously with the help of a resident yeast culture that has probably achieved honorary family status by now. The result? Wines that are vibrant, soulful, and just the right amount of wild—much like Péter’s vineyards themselves. Cr.: Keep6 Imports  Spern Steiner Kékfrankos Importe r Website  (Canada) Kékfrankos is the Hungarian name for Blaufränkisch, which is also known as Lemberger in Germany. One of Péter Wetzer's standout creations is the Spern Steiner Kékfrankos, a vibrant and concentrated wine with a crunchy texture. This powerful and rich low-intervention Kékfrankos is produced from 60-year-old vines in the esteemed Spern Steiner vineyard, which dates back to 1684. The vines grow on barren slate and quartzite soils—the kind of tough-love environment that makes grapes develop character, grit, and maybe a little attitude. Although Péter Wetzer's vineyards are not yet certified organic, they are situated in one of the best locations in the municipality of Sopron. The grapes are selectively hand-harvested, destemmed, and mashed in open vats, where they undergo spontaneous fermentation for about three weeks. The wine then ages on fine lees in used Hungarian oak barrels (300–1,000 liters), remaining unfined, unfiltered, and given only a whisper of sulfur. Péter proudly calls it his Grand Cru—because honestly, it behaves like one. The Kékfrankos bursts from the glass with an almost explosive bouquet of dark berries—especially blackberry—plus juniper, bay leaf, peppermint, and a little violet for good measure. On the palate, it’s juicy and full-bodied yet somehow still cool and fresh, with silky, slightly sassy tannins and lively acidity. The body is lean but powerful, finishing long with fruit, smoky-dark spice, and a confident swipe of minerality. It is a wine with history, personality, and just the right amount of dramatic flair. Food Pairing I paired this wine with Hungarian Lamb Stew - Báránypaprikás - the dish that proves Hungarians will put paprika in (and on) practically anything that holds still long enough. Traditionally served with galuska (our proudly lumpy, delightfully chewy answer to Spätzle), it’s rich, cozy, and unapologetically bold. The Kékfrankos handles it like a pro. Its firm tannins and spicy, dark-fruited attitude slice through the lamb’s richness, while its own peppery notes cozy up to the paprika like old friends swapping gossip. The result is a wonderfully balanced pairing where both the stew and the wine get to show off—without either one stealing the spotlight completely. A delicious little culinary power couple. Hungarian Lamb Stew, aka Báránypaprikás Serves 4 | PREP TIME: 30 minutes | COOK TIME: 2 hours Course: Main Succulent Hungarian Lamb Stew infused with aromatic paprika. This hearty dish combines tender pieces of lamb, slow-cooked to perfection, with the rich red spice, creating a warm and comforting meal that's bursting with flavour. Ingredients 700 g / 1½ lb lamb, cut into cubes 2 tbsp fat (lard, tallow, or olive oil) 1 medium red onion, diced 2–3 garlic cloves, minced 1 tbsp paprika 1 tsp salt 1 medium tomato, diced ½ green bell pepper (or Hungarian pepper), diced 100 ml / ⅓ cup red wine Instructions In a saucepan, heat the fat. Add the finely chopped red onion and garlic, and sauté them for 5 to 8 minutes. Next, add the bell pepper and tomato, both chopped into 0.5 cm cubes, and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Pour in about 500 ml of water and let it simmer, allowing the liquid to reduce. Afterward, add the lamb, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) cubes, and season with salt and pepper. Sear the meat for another 10 minutes. At this point, take note of how much water the lamb has released. Adjust by adding enough water to just cover the meat, and continue cooking until the lamb is tender. Remember to stir occasionally and replenish any evaporated liquid as needed. In total, the stew will require about 3 liters of liquid. For the final addition of liquid, you can use wine. Serve on a bed of Spätzle or boiled potatoes or even rice, with a side of pickles or other fermented vegetables. Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Every year during the Christmas season, I embark on a culinary adventure, exploring new recipes while also revisiting old favourites. One of our cherished holiday treats is the rich and decadent Port Poached Pear Chocolate Cake with Blue Cheese . While this combination may sound unusual to some, believe me, it’s a match made in holiday heaven. Not only is it easy to make, but it’s also incredibly impressive! The recipe has now been passed down to my daughters, who just packed their bags and fled to Montreal for university. For Thanksgiving, they concocted a student-budget-friendly version using the cheapest wine they could find. Let's just say it was a “grape” success! The Cake First, let’s discuss the cake, which serves as the rich chocolate foundation. It features a decadent, almost flourless chocolate base that is simply irresistible. I’ve made this recipe more than any other dessert, and it’s fabulous on its own or paired with a dollop of jam or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This recipe holds a special place in my heart because it was given to me by a dear friend, Lisa, who left us too soon. During her travels in France, she stayed at a bed-and-breakfast in Lyon, where the host shared this recipe with her. Lisa wrote it down for me on a purple sticky note, a keepsake that has survived 25 years in my recipe book. I cherish this note not only for the recipe itself but also for the memories it brings back of our friendship. Fortifies Wine Poached Pears The poached pears, reminiscent of elegant figures with inviting curves, as if they've just been gently embraced by a rich wine bath that elevates their natural sweetness. To achieve the perfect texture, it's key to select ripe pears ensuring they retain their lovely shape while cooking. Bosc and Anjou are fantastic choices. Now, let’s talk about the wine. A fortified dessert wine has a higher alcohol content than your average vino because it got a little help from its friend, brandy . The fortification process involves adding this distilled grape spirit to the fermenting wine, killing the yeast, leaving behind residual sugar and resulting in a sweeter and more potent, absolutely delicious final product. The most widely available fortified sweet wine is Port, from Porto, Portugal. Thats a lot of "port" in one phrase, but trust me every sip is worth every penny you have in your porte-monnaie (pardon my French!). The Ruby Port is typically the most affordable variety, though you can use Tawny port instead if you'd like. In addition to Port, there are several other delightful sweet red fortified wines to explore. These include Madeira from Portugal and various Vin Doux Naturel options from Roussillon, such as Banyul, Maury, and Rivesaltes, as well as Rasteau from the Rhône region of France. Additionally, there's Rubino Marsala from Sicily, Italy. Each of these wines has its own unique flavour profile and production methods. Port is the easiest to find in Canada and is likely the most budget-friendly option. If you haven't tried  fortified wines yet, I don't know what you're waiting for! The Blue Cheese Roquefort Société The real twist comes from incorporating blue cheese, which adds a tangy richness that elevates the entire dessert. I particularly enjoy French Roquefort among the various blue cheeses. It stands out because it is made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk and aged in natural limestone caves in Occitania, southern France. Other blue cheeses, made from cow'smilk, can serve as suitable substitutes. The famous French philosopher Diderot declared Roquefort as the “King of Cheeses” in his work,  L'Encyclopédie , during the Age of Enlightenment. While other intellectuals engaged in exploring the secrets of existence, knowledge, and the meaning of life, Diderot was busy championing sheep’s milk cheese! Après tout , who needs to unravel the mysteries of the universe when you can have a cheesy debate about the supremacy of Roquefort? Port Poached Pear Chocolate Cake with Blue Cheese Servings: 4 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 1 hour Course: Dessert Ingredients For the Poached Pears: - 4 ripe pears - 3 cup / 750 ml port wine* - 1/4 cup / 50 grams sugar * A standard bottle of Port is 750 ml. You can use slightly less in the recipe, allowing you to enjoy some of the leftover with dessert. If you are poaching the pears in "regular" dry red wine  instead, you'll need to add more sugar to the syrup to achieve a balanced flavour. You don't have to spend a lot on the most expensive bottle; instead, choose a strong, fruity, and affordable dry red wine if you’re on a budget. Some great options to consider include Malbec, Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Gamay, or Zinfandel, or even blends of these varieties. Optional, but great: - a couple of large pieces of orange peel - 1 cinnamon stick - 2-3 whole cloves - 1 star anise For the Chocolate Cake: ( I have changed Lisa's original recipe, using one standard 100g/ 3.5 oz chocolate bar and adjusted the other ingredients accordingly. - 100 grams / 3.5 oz of dark chocolate (70% and up), a whole bar - 100 grams / 1/2 cup sugar - 100 grams /  / 1/2 cup of butter - 3 whole eggs - 3 tbsp white flour (or almond flour) - 1/8 teaspoon salt - 1/4 cup Dutch process cocoa powder (optional) - 1 teaspoon baking powder (optional) - 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional) For theTopping: 100 grams / 3.5 oz Roquefort cheese or another type of blue cheese A handful chopped toasted walnuts or pecans (optional). Instructions Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line it with parchment paper rounds. Grease the parchment paper as well; this ensures that the cakes release easily from the pans. Set aside. PEARS: Begin by peeling the pears, taking care to leave the stems intact. Cut a small bit off the bottom so the pears can stand in the pan without tipping over. I don't usually remove the seeds, but you can by using a melon baller to gently scoop out a small hole from the bottom of each one. Place the pears in a saucepan with the spices and sugar, ensuring they fit snugly. Pour in the port and water, then bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiling, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the saucepan. Let the pears poach for 45 minutes. Grab a fork and gently poke a pear to check for that perfect softness. They should feel tender yet firm enough to maintain their lovely shape. Once done, remove the pears from the poaching liquid and set them on a plate to cool down. Once the fruit and larger spices are removed, gently on low heat let the wine simmer until it reduces by half - about 15-20 minutes. You'll be rewarded with a delightful, thick port wine syrup. CAKE: Meanwhile, set another metal bowl over a pot of simmering water to create a double boiler. Melt the chocolate in the bowl. (You can also make this step in the microwave.) In a stand mixer bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until the mixture turns a pale yellow color and becomes light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating on medium speed until fully combined. Once the chocolate has melted, gradually mix it into the butter, sugar, and egg mixture. In a separate bowl, combine the dry ingredients: flour, salt, cocoa powder, instant espresso powder, and baking powder. Gradually add this mixture to the wet ingredients, one spoonful at a time, while mixing on low speed. Pour the batter into a greased 8-inch springform pan. Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes. The cake may appear slightly underdone when you take it out, which is perfectly fine. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes before removing it. Then, transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool completely. ASSEMBLY : Once the cake has cooled, use a 3-inch round cookie cutter to cut out four rounds. Place each round on its own dessert plate. Top each piece with a tablespoon of blue cheese, followed by a poached pear. Drizzle port wine glaze over the pears. For a finishing touch, sprinkle additional blue cheese and some chopped toasted walnuts or pecans on top. Happy sipping and savouring!