Chablis & Jambon Persillé in Aspic, or, outside France, leftover ham in jelly, is one of Burgundy’s quietly brilliant pairings. The richness and gentle wobble of the parsley-set ham call for acidity, not power. Enter Chablis, a cool-climate, unoaked Chardonnay from northern Burgundy, whose sharp freshness, saline minerality, and citrus lift cut cleanly through the pork while echoing the dish’s herbal notes. Rustic food, precise wine: a match that proves restraint beats embell

I found impossibly cute pink savoiardi at my local Italian supermarket and, of course, couldn’t resist. They resurfaced later, right as I was planning dessert for Christmas Eve. Since yuzu sake had already slipped into the menu via yuzu-sake–cured gravlax, it felt only polite to invite it to dessert too. A gentle splash brought floral lift to a citrusy tiramisu: lemon curd, mascarpone, no coffee, no cocoa. Just winter sunshine, layered and softly festive.

Christmas Eve at our table travels far. Scandinavian gravlax meets Canadian maple and Japanese yuzu sake, woven together by tradition gently bent. A pescatarian ritual rooted in memory, this dish pairs Nordic restraint with citrus brightness, cured slowly and served with quiet ceremony. Champagne bubbles echo the salt and silk of the salmon, while yuzu lends winter sunshine and floral lift—proof that geography matters less than balance, intention, and a table that knows how t