Exploring Cluny: A Summer Trip to the Jewel of Burgundy

Despite being a peak summer, en plus Saturday, we were delighted to discover the Beaujolais hills nearly all to ourselves, giving us the exhilarating sensation of being VIPs exploring a department store after hours. As we journeyed north on the Autoroute du Soleil, a sense of joy washed over us while others were caught in traffic heading south toward the Côte d'Azur and Spain. It was hard not to feel a bit smug seeing caravans of French, Dutch, and Belgian tourists inching along!

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Caveat lector: this blog is more than just about food and wine!

In addition to my love for wine, I have a deep passion for art and the history of art and architecture (especially old, very old ones) —so deep, in fact, that I hold a somewhat impractical degree in the field.

If you come across my posts about art from various wine regions (like the one below), I hope they pique your interest. But if they don’t? No hard feelings, I won't judge!  While starting an art history blog is tempting, let’s be honest: the only thing scarcer than my writing would be my blog’s readership!

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Cluny Abbey

I initially worried that Sunday might lack excitement as we were set to visit Cluny Abbey, a true gem for enthusiasts of medieval art history (moi!). To our absolute delight, we were greeted by the vibrant charm of Cluny, with its picturesque Romanesque houses and quaint medieval streets bustling with life. Cluny, originally a Benedictine monastery established in 910, once stood as the heart of a monastic "empire" that boasted 10,000 monks across Europe at its peak. The church complex was even the largest Christian building in the world until St. Peter's Basilica was reconstructed in the 16th century.

In the early 12th century, the order faced some challenges due to leadership changes. While the Papal Schism in the 14th century further strained the organization, it was the French Revolution that ultimately led to its suppression in France. The once-magnificent monastery at Cluny suffered partly from demolition, with its stones repurposed as a quarry until 1823.

However, there’s good news for visitors today! You can still admire the impressive remnants of one transept of the abbey church, along with the elegant 15th-century residential quarters for the abbots and the charming 18th-century convent buildings. Even in their present condition, these ruins speak to the abbey's former glory and scale.

I highly encourage you to climb to the top of the 11th-century defensive tower that is part of the Abbey. Although the 120 steps may seem daunting, the breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding landscape will reward your effort! The tower, known as La Tour des Fromages, literally means "Cheese Tower." It was previously called La Tour des Fèves, which translates to "The Bean Tower"- not quite as appetizing, right?

The tower has a history as rich as a triple-cream Délice de Bourgogne; however, it's not named after the dairy product for that reason. In the 19th century, a clever woman transformed the tower into a cheese-drying facility. And just like that, it went from being a fortress to a cheese factory! Now, instead of guarding against invaders, it stands proudly as a monument to the glory of cheese - because who needs beans when you can have brie?

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Here are a couple of fantastic places you won’t want to miss:

Le Potin Gourmand Restaurant - 4 Pl. du Champ de Foire, 71250 Cluny, France

Nestled in a beautifully preserved 18th-century pottery workshop at the edge of the medieval town, this restaurant serves delightful classic Burgundy cuisine with a modern twist.

Au Plaisir Dit Vin - Wine Shop - 19 Rue Mercière, 71250 Cluny, France

With a knowledgeable staff eager to assist, you'll find an intriguing and high-quality selection of wines and spirits all tailored to fit every budget.

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Happy sipping and savouring!