The Jolyest Wine of the Loire Valley
- Sylvia Fonalka
- Nov 2
- 6 min read
Updated: Nov 8
I may have shared this previously, but we were fortunate to spend a few months in France - where we not only perfected our ability to eat cheese and baguettes like a pro, but also toured some charming wineries.
One of the highlights was Château de la Roche aux Moines, the estate of celebrated winemaker Nicolas Joly. The surname "Joly," which translates to "pretty" or "cheerful," perfectly captures the joy we experienced during our time at this remarkable location, where the art of winemaking flourishes amidst a stunning setting.
This estate includes the prestigious, privately owned Clos de la Coulée de Serrant vineyard, which is renowned for producing some of the world’s most unique and age-worthy dry Chenin Blanc wines, produced through biodynamic farming in the Loire Valley of France.
In December 2018, just after Christmas, we had the pleasure of visiting the estate. We arrived with modest expectations, only hoping to see the old gates of the château. To our delight, they were open, inviting us into the beautiful grounds of the winery. Snow rarely falls in the Loire Valley in December, instead, the weather often brings mist and rain, covering the landscape in a soft fog. We walked through this winter scene, enjoying the quiet beauty of the season and discovering the charm of a hidden gem.
We were warmly welcomed by a lovely lady who truly made our visit memorable. She generously shared her insights about the estate and invited us to savor some exceptional white wines produced on-site. We couldn't resist purchasing a couple of bottles, and to our surprise, she offered us the open bottles for tasting, ensuring they wouldn’t go to waste! While I’m unsure about the regulations for transporting open bottles in France (unlike Canada, where it’s strictly prohibited), we decided to embrace a little adventure, taking the risk with both our reputations and wallets by bringing those treasures with us. Our journey was just beginning in the stunning Loire Valley, and we were buzzing with excitement as we headed toward the enchanting Loire châteaux with some "Jolys" in our trunk.
Winemaker Extraordinaire: Nicolas Joly and Biodynamic Viticulture
Nicolas Joly is a significant figure in the wine industry for several reasons. As a pioneer of biodynamic viticulture, Joly converted his family estate to this method in 1984—long before it became popular or had its own Instagram hashtag. His passion for natural winemaking and commitment to honoring the land have not only made him a talented winemaker but also a kind of vinous superhero in the industry.
Joly emphasizes the importance of soil health and natural cultivation methods, believing that healthy vines produce grapes of the highest quality. His philosophy is rooted in the principles of biodynamic agriculture, which harmonizes farming with the lunar calendar and incorporates natural preparations to enhance biodiversity and vitality in the vineyard.
Biodynamic viticulture is a holistic approach to grape growing that treats the vineyard as a vibrant ecosystem. By combining organic practices with elements of spirituality and cosmic awareness, it completely avoids synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. Instead, it harnesses the natural dynamics of the farm and uses specific preparations that often align with lunar and planetary cycles for activities like planting and pruning. This method fosters a balanced and sustainable environment, resulting in high-quality grapes that beautifully express their unique terroir. It’s an exciting way to appreciate nature!
Nicolas Joly's journey to becoming a prominent figure in biodynamic viticulture is truly inspiring. His story begins just one generation earlier with his parents, André, a surgeon, and his wife Denise, who came from Angers, a city in western France located beside the Maine river at the edge of the Loire Valley. Although they never intended to enter the world of viticulture, their quest for a peaceful retreat in the countryside unexpectedly led them to own a vineyard.
The estate has a fascinating history, tracing back to a 12th-century Cistercian monastery, with remnants that still captivate visitors today. For centuries, its lush vineyards have been dedicated to winemaking.
When the Joly family acquired the estate in the 19th century, it included several plots from the esteemed cru-level parcels of Roche aux Moines and other Savennières vineyards. However, the estate required care and attention when they took it over. Denise assumed the role of winemaker, making every effort to nurture the vineyard. Meanwhile, Nicolas traveled to the USA for his education, earning an MBA from Columbia University and building a successful career in finance with JP Morgan.
In 1976, when Nicolas returned home to support his now widowed mother, he made a wise decision: he enrolled in an oenology program in Bordeaux for two years to prepare himself. Armed with knowledge and new perspectives, Nicolas took the reins of the estate, but the real breakthrough came in the 1980s.
It all changed when he discovered a fascinating book on biodynamic agriculture by the visionary philosopher Rudolf Steiner during a skiing holiday in 1981. It ignited a passion in him that transformed his approach to viticulture. Within four short years, he adopted biodynamic principles for the estate and emerged as a leading advocate for this sustainable practice.
Today, Nicolas Joly's dedication to biodynamic viticulture is celebrated worldwide, now with her daughter, Virginie at his side, the domaine hid showcasing the beautiful connection between nature, care, and exceptional winemaking!
Nicolas Joly has written numerous books about biodynamic wine, such as Le Vin du ciel à la terre (Wine from Sky to Earth) aimed at winegrowers, and Le Vin, la Vigne et la Biodynamie (What is Biodynamic Wine? / Biodynamic Wine Demystified) targeted at consumers and have been translated into several languages, including Spanish, German, Italian, Hungarian, Japanese and many others.
Clos de la Coulée de Serrant (Monopole)
The Clos de la Coulée de Serrant is a historic and highly regarded French wine estate that holds its own exclusive appellation (AOC) within the Loire Valley. This little gem is a “monopole”, fancy word to say it is a single-producer appellation, entirely owned and operated by a single family, the Jolys.
The exceptional Chenin Blanc cultivated here elegantly expresses its rich terroir. The grapes are sourced from 40 to 50-year-old vines spread across 7 hectares. Cultivated since 1130, and is situated on steep slopes with a southward exposure, resting on shale and quartz soil. With remarkable intensity and complexity, this iconic limited wine captures the true essence of the estate and exhibits incredible aging potential, promising a delightful experience for years to come.
The Chenin Blanc Grape
The star of the show at Château de la Roche aux Moines is the Chenin Blanc grape.
While Chenin Blanc is often seen as a budget-friendly(er) option, there is so much more to it! High-quality Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley is an exceptional choice that can age beautifully, making it a true hidden gem for those in the know. Its versatility is remarkable, offering a range of styles from dry to sparkling, and even sweet dessert wines. This variety is a significant strength, though it may pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with it. Lacking a single, well-known style, the grape does not have the clear brand identity that has contributed to the popularity of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. I will stop complaining and simply enjoy it until its world domination and higher prices arrive.
Chenin Blanc is the wine grape equivalent of that friend who can switch styles effortlessly- sometimes crisp and refreshing like a cool breeze, other times sweet and indulgent like a guilty pleasure!
In cool climates, such as France's Loire Valley where it originates, the focus is on mineral-driven flavors with hints of green apple, quince, lemon, and white flowers. Notable regions for this grape include Vouvray and Savennières.
However, in warmer regions like South Africa, Chenin Blanc transforms into a tropical extravaganza, featuring flavors of ripe pear, peach, pineapple, and mango. Oak aging is more common in this style, which can introduce notes of vanilla and smoke.
Aged Chenin Blanc can develop complex flavors of honey, baked apple, ginger, and marzipan.
For dessert enthusiasts, there is botrytized Chenin Blanc, which is produced from grapes affected by "noble rot." These rich wines are concentrated with flavors of apricot, honey, and marmalade.
Tasting Notes
In 2024, we opened a bottle of CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2015 that we had purchased from Joly. The wine introduced us to a rich aroma with notes of glue, honey, and herbs. Upon tasting it, we were pleasantly surprised by its spiciness and smooth alcohol content. As it aired, additional aromas of leather and wood emerged, balancing the wine beautifully with hints of dried fruit and creaminess. Despite its strong alcohol content of 15%, the wine became much more enjoyable when exposed to air.
Relatively speaking, this wine is not as expensive as one might expect given its quality and reputation. If you find any Joly wines in Canada, they are definitely worth trying at least once in a lifetime!
Happy sipping and savouring!
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