Exploring the Wines of Savoie Curtesy of the Local Pétanque Club

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When people daydream about an 8-month sabbatical in France, most people immediately picture the vibrant streets of Paris, bustling with life, with its iconic landmarks and vibrant café culture. Others might picture themselves lounging on the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean along the stunning Côte d'Azur, bien sûr.

However, few think of the serene beauty of the Alpine valleys, where majestic mountains tower above lush green meadows and tranquil streams flow through picturesque villages, all while you breathe in the crisp mountain air.

Now, if you’re in France specifically to learn about wine, Haut-Savoie, averaging an altitude of around 1,500 meters (that is 4921.26 feet to be precise), probably won’t be at the top of your vino bucketo listo, unless you are a high-altitude wine aficionado.

But that's almost exactly where we ended up! Well, I said "almost" because we were actually closer to Grenoble, but hey, still solidly in the Alps!

My husband, the true wine whisperer of the family, prefers to remain incognito—like a secret agent but with a corkscrew. He spent a season at the Domaine Dupraz winery in Savoie, where long, fulfilling days in the vineyards left him both tired and inspired by the breathtaking mountain scenery. One day, he took a moment to admire the view and, with his charmingly limited French, told the winemaker, Maxime, "Wow, what an absolutely gorgeous view you get to enjoy every single day!" The winemaker looked at him puzzled, and said with his charmingly limited English, "These are just some peaks." Well, those "some peaks" are actually the most majestic snow-capped ridges of the French Alps! I guess you can become accustomed to everything, even the most breathtaking beauty that leaves others in awe.

Domaine Dupraz

Nestled at an altitude of 350 to 450 meters (1100-1500 feet) on steep hillsides, Domaine Dupraz is a family-run vineyard located in the Reposoir area of Apremont. The estate benefits from a unique terroir, and its vines have been passed down from father to son since 1880, perfectly expressing the distinct climates of Savoie. Domaine Dupraz produces Altesse and Mondeuse, but they are particularly passionate about Jacquère, which the winemaker describes as “a veritable mirror of the terroir.”  The winery is certified organic since 2021.

"some peaks" | Photo credit: Domaine Dupraz, Apremont, Savoie, France

Bastille Day Celebration with the Pétanqueu Club in Chignin

That year, when my husband worked at Apremont, July 14, Bastille Day, landed on a Saturday. You know, the French national holiday where everyone pretends to know how to be a revolutionary? We thought it’d be the ideal time for a little adventure, just the two of us, since the kids were off gallivanting in Hungary with friends. With the epic planning skills of a seasoned traveler and living in France for a few month by then, we packed up the car with a full tank of gas and snacks, considering we were AN HOUR away from civilization, and, I repeat, on a French! National! Holiday!

We set off with high hopes, only to soon realize that nothing was open—not even the bakery just over the pass where my husband used to pick up his daily bread. I mean, his croissant, which he insisted was the best in France for reasons that defied logic, since it had no competition within a 50-kilometre radius in these mountains.

Still, the breathtaking scenery felt like something out of a postcard—if postcards could cry over the absence of wine and food, that is. As we wandered through the charming village of Chignin, nestled at the foot of the Bauges Mountains, it struck me that we might end this day sorely lacking in vinous pleasures.

Then, the universe delivered: we stumbled upon a group of gents who were deep into their Bastille Day celebrations. They introduced themselves as the local Pétanque / Boules Club. Yes, that’s right—men tossing metal balls around while looking mysteriously dignified. They embraced us like we were long-lost cousins and, best of all, they brought out enough local wine to put an entire vineyard to shame! I mean, who needs dinner when you have a tasting party in a park with a bunch of friendly French dudes? Thanks to the boules club, I had a tasting experience that could only be topped by winning their game—if only I had a clue how to play!

Here’s a family photo to commemorate the day—because nothing says “romantic getaway” like an impromptu wine fest with a bunch of strangers playing with metal balls!

Already, let’s get back to the important stuff, shall we?

A Tapestry of Indigenous Alpine Wine Varietals

Altesse, Roussette, Gringet, and Mondeuse may sound like names of performers from a Belle Époque cabaret in Paris, but they are actually exquisite grape varieties from the Savoie region in France. This lesser-known wine region in the Alps is renowned for its crisp, high-acid white wines and lighter-bodied reds, which are often made from these unique local grapes.

Most of Savoie wine is guzzled down by locals or ski tourists, who seem to think it's essential for surviving the slopes. As a result, sadly, it barely makes an appearance on the international market.

In Savoie each grape variety tells a unique story! Starting with the standout white grapes, Jacquère takes the spotlight as the most popular choice, crafting delightful, light-bodied white wines brimming with zesty citrus and crisp green apple flavours. You'll often find these refreshing wines gracing the tables of the delightful Apremont and Abymes crus, making every sip a celebration!

Then we have Altesse (aka Roussette), renowned for its ability to create full-bodied white wines that are as intriguing as they are delicious, featuring beautiful notes of honey, nuts, and exotic fruits.

Roussanne, known locally as Bergeron, brings a richer profile to the mix. This Rhône variety flourishes in the Chignin-Bergeron cru, delivering structured white wines with enchanting aromas of stone fruits and honeysuckle-perfect for those who enjoy a more complex tasting experience!

Chasselas is cultivated on the French side of Lake Geneva (although it is also found on the Swiss side, which is a different story to tell), producing delicate white wines with floral elegance.

Moving on to the reds, Mondeuse is the iconic grape of Savoie, creating dark, peppery wines that are full of character. The best expressions of this grape boast impressive aging potential, promising even more delightful discoveries with time.

Gamay offers a lighter touch with its fruity and approachable qualities, while the rare Persan grape is making a heartwarming comeback, capturing the spirit of this region’s rich viticultural history.

The diverse wine styles of Savoie can be find under famous appellations like Vin de Savoie AOC, Apremont, Chignin-Bergeron, Arbin, Roussette de Savoie AOC, and the exciting new Crémant de Savoie AOC, known for its exquisite sparkling wines.

Wines from Domaine Jean-François Quénard and Domaine de la Chancelière, both in Chignin, Savoie

I hope this brief glimpse into Savoie’s unique wine landscape inspires you to explore this lesser-known gem of France, whether you're a wine enthusiast or simply seeking the region's stunning natural beauty and charming atmosphere!

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Happy sipping and savouring!