A Hungarian 'Grand Cru' & Lamb Paprikash

👩‍🍳— Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting.

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The Legacy of Kékfrankos from West Hungary

Péter Wetzer makes beautifully distinctive wines in the rolling, storybook hills of Sopron, where Hungary meets Austria. His vineyards are scattered across the landscape, some so tucked away they feel almost hidden on purpose, shaped by the ever-present Pannonian wind. Each plot has its own character, and that individuality shows clearly in every bottle.

He farms organically, with a level of care that suggests a real connection to the land. His 2.5 hectares feel less like a vineyard and more like a small, thriving ecosystem, full of plant life, wildlife, and the quiet rhythms of nature. Everything is done by hand, as you might expect from someone so closely involved in every step.

In his old cellar, fermentation happens naturally, driven by native yeasts that have become part of the winery’s identity over time. The wines that emerge are lively, expressive, and a little untamed, reflecting both the landscape they come from and the thoughtful, hands-on approach behind them.

Cr.: Keep6 Imports

 Spern Steiner Kékfrankos

Importer Website (Canada)

Kékfrankos (KAYK-frahn-kosh) is the Hungarian name for Blaufränkisch (also known as Lemberger in Germany) and is a grape valued for its balance of freshness and depth.

One of Péter Wetzer’s standout wines is his Spern Steiner Kékfrankos. Made from 60-year-old vines in the historic Spern Steiner vineyard, established in 1684, it offers both vibrancy and concentration. The vines grow in sparse slate and quartzite soils, which naturally limit yields and contribute to the wine’s structure and intensity.

The grapes are hand-harvested, then fermented naturally in open vats for about three weeks. The wine is aged on fine lees in used Hungarian oak barrels and bottled without fining or filtration, with only a minimal addition of sulphur.

In the glass, it shows dark berry notes, especially blackberry, alongside hints of juniper, herbs, and violet. The palate is juicy yet refined, with fresh acidity, smooth tannins, and a long, mineral finish.

It’s a thoughtful, expressive wine with a clear sense of place.

Food Pairing

I paired this wine with Hungarian lamb stew - báránypaprikás - a dish that proudly showcases paprika in all its glory. Traditionally served with galuska (soft, slightly rustic dumplings similar to Spätzle), it’s rich, comforting, and full of bold flavour.

The Kékfrankos is a natural match. Its firm tannins and dark fruit cut through the richness of the lamb, while its subtle spice echoes the warmth of the paprika. Everything comes together in a way that feels balanced and seamless, with each element complementing the other.

It’s a pairing where both the wine and the dish shine, elegant, satisfying, and easy to enjoy.

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Hungarian Lamb Stew, aka Báránypaprikás

Serves 4 | PREP TIME: 30 minutes | COOK TIME: 2 hours

Course: Main

Succulent Hungarian Lamb Stew infused with aromatic paprika. This hearty dish combines tender pieces of lamb, slow-cooked to perfection, with the rich red spice, creating a warm and comforting meal that's bursting with flavour.

Ingredients

• 700 g / 1½ lb lamb, cut into cubes

• 2 tbsp fat (lard, tallow, or olive oil)

• 1 medium red onion, diced

• 2–3 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 tbsp paprika

• 1 tsp salt

• 1 medium tomato, diced

• ½ green bell pepper (or Hungarian pepper), diced

• 100 ml / ⅓ cup red wine

Instructions

In a saucepan, heat the fat. Add the finely chopped red onion and garlic, and sauté them for 5 to 8 minutes.

Next, add the bell pepper and tomato, both chopped into 0.5 cm cubes, and cook for an additional 5 minutes.

Pour in about 500 ml of water and let it simmer, allowing the liquid to reduce.

Add the lamb, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) cubes, and season with salt and pepper. Sear the meat for another 10 minutes. At this point, take note of how much water the lamb has released. Adjust by adding enough water to just cover the meat, and continue cooking until the lamb is tender. Remember to stir occasionally and replenish any evaporated liquid as needed. In total, the stew will require about 3 liters of liquid. For the final addition of liquid, you can use wine.

Serve on a bed of Spätzle or boiled potatoes or even rice, with a side of pickles or other fermented vegetables.

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Happy sipping and savouring!