A Hungarian 'Grand Cru' & Lamb Paprikash

👩‍🍳— Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting.

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Whispers of the Vineyard: The Legacy of Kékfrankos from West Hungary

Péter Wetzer crafts wonderfully eccentric wines in the storybook hills of Sopron, right where Hungary politely bumps elbows with Austria. His vineyards—some so remote they feel like they’ve wandered off on purpose—sit in dramatic landscapes shaped by the famously bossy Pannonian wind. Each little plot has its own personality, and they’re not shy about expressing it in the glass.

Péter farms organically with the tenderness of someone who genuinely chats with his vines (I cannot confirm this, but it feels true). His 2.5 hectares are basically a tiny, thriving nature documentary, complete with happy flora, curious fauna, and very judgmental ladybugs. Everything is done by hand, because of course it is.

Down in his old cellar, the wines ferment spontaneously with the help of a resident yeast culture that has probably achieved honorary family status by now. The result? Wines that are vibrant, soulful, and just the right amount of wild—much like Péter’s vineyards themselves.

Cr.: Keep6 Imports

 Spern Steiner Kékfrankos

Importer Website (Canada)

Kékfrankos is the Hungarian name for Blaufränkisch, which is also known as Lemberger in Germany. One of Péter Wetzer's standout creations is the Spern Steiner Kékfrankos, a vibrant and concentrated wine with a crunchy texture. This powerful and rich low-intervention Kékfrankos is produced from 60-year-old vines in the esteemed Spern Steiner vineyard, which dates back to 1684. The vines grow on barren slate and quartzite soils—the kind of tough-love environment that makes grapes develop character, grit, and maybe a little attitude.

Although Péter Wetzer's vineyards are not yet certified organic, they are situated in one of the best locations in the municipality of Sopron. The grapes are selectively hand-harvested, destemmed, and mashed in open vats, where they undergo spontaneous fermentation for about three weeks. The wine then ages on fine lees in used Hungarian oak barrels (300–1,000 liters), remaining unfined, unfiltered, and given only a whisper of sulfur. Péter proudly calls it his Grand Cru—because honestly, it behaves like one.

The Kékfrankos bursts from the glass with an almost explosive bouquet of dark berries—especially blackberry—plus juniper, bay leaf, peppermint, and a little violet for good measure. On the palate, it’s juicy and full-bodied yet somehow still cool and fresh, with silky, slightly sassy tannins and lively acidity. The body is lean but powerful, finishing long with fruit, smoky-dark spice, and a confident swipe of minerality.

It is a wine with history, personality, and just the right amount of dramatic flair.

Food Pairing

I paired this wine with Hungarian Lamb Stew - Báránypaprikás - the dish that proves Hungarians will put paprika in (and on) practically anything that holds still long enough. Traditionally served with galuska (our proudly lumpy, delightfully chewy answer to Spätzle), it’s rich, cozy, and unapologetically bold.

The Kékfrankos handles it like a pro. Its firm tannins and spicy, dark-fruited attitude slice through the lamb’s richness, while its own peppery notes cozy up to the paprika like old friends swapping gossip. The result is a wonderfully balanced pairing where both the stew and the wine get to show off—without either one stealing the spotlight completely. A delicious little culinary power couple.

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Hungarian Lamb Stew, aka Báránypaprikás

Serves 4 | PREP TIME: 30 minutes | COOK TIME: 2 hours

Course: Main

Succulent Hungarian Lamb Stew infused with aromatic paprika. This hearty dish combines tender pieces of lamb, slow-cooked to perfection, with the rich red spice, creating a warm and comforting meal that's bursting with flavour.

Ingredients

• 700 g / 1½ lb lamb, cut into cubes

• 2 tbsp fat (lard, tallow, or olive oil)

• 1 medium red onion, diced

• 2–3 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 tbsp paprika

• 1 tsp salt

• 1 medium tomato, diced

• ½ green bell pepper (or Hungarian pepper), diced

• 100 ml / ⅓ cup red wine

Instructions

In a saucepan, heat the fat. Add the finely chopped red onion and garlic, and sauté them for 5 to 8 minutes. Next, add the bell pepper and tomato, both chopped into 0.5 cm cubes, and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Pour in about 500 ml of water and let it simmer, allowing the liquid to reduce.

Afterward, add the lamb, cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) cubes, and season with salt and pepper. Sear the meat for another 10 minutes. At this point, take note of how much water the lamb has released. Adjust by adding enough water to just cover the meat, and continue cooking until the lamb is tender. Remember to stir occasionally and replenish any evaporated liquid as needed. In total, the stew will require about 3 liters of liquid. For the final addition of liquid, you can use wine.

Serve on a bed of Spätzle or boiled potatoes or even rice, with a side of pickles or other fermented vegetables.

Happy sipping and savouring!