Tokaji Fordítás & Duck Rillettes with Candied Shallots

Sylvia Fonalka
Nov 5, 2025
6 min read

Updated: 5 days ago

👩‍🍳— Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting.

Magic in a Bottle: The Old Tradition of Tokaji Wines

If I were forced to choose my last meal, well, it would be a rillette or pâté, preferably foie gras, but a good country pâté would suffice! And, of course, what could pair better with that final meal than an expensive late-harvest wine, its sweetness and complexity unfolding like a beautiful final chapter as I sit beneath the gallows, savouring each poignant moment. And since I have close ties to the area, a Tokaji would be just perfect!

While I am certainly not a witch, and the above scenario is very unlikely, it's interesting to note that Tokaj, renowned for its unparalleled wines, also has a rich tapestry of folklore that celebrates its status as a legendary home for witches - of course, all this in the dark middle ages! Nowadays, you’ll rather find some incredibly talented women winemakers in Tokaj, and their skills can truly feel like sorcery!

If you’re looking to expand your palate, consider trying Tokaji. It’s an excellent choice, especially if you're a fan of sweet wines like French Sauternes or German and Canadian Ice Wines. These exceptional dessert wines are equally delightfull paired with blue cheeses and pâtés. Both Tokaji and Sauternes are renowned sweet wines made from grapes affected by the Botrytis cinerea fungus, the"noble rot". In contrast, Ice Wine is unique in that it's made from grapes that have naturally frozen on the vine. When comparing the two "noble rot" wines, the Hungarian Tokaji stands out for its rich, complex flavors and vibrant acidity, while Sauternes from Bordeaux is known for its creamy texture and sophisticated sweetness.

The Many Styles of Tokaji

Grape varieties of the Tokaj wine region or Tokaj-Hegyalja in Hungarian, are Furmint, Hárslevelű, and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grapes.

In the Tokaji lineup, the star of the show is definitely the famous Tokaji Aszú, a delectable sweet wine made from uniquely shrivelled grapes affected by "noble rot."

The sweetness level of the wine is traditionally indicated by the number of "puttonyos." A puttony is a large basket, approximately 25 kg, used to measure the amount of aszú berries added to a gönc cask, which has a capacity of 136 liters. The greater the number of puttony, the sweeter and more expensive the wine becomes.

Szamorodni brings its own magic, available in both dry (száraz) and sweet (édes) styles made from a combination of ripe and shriveled grapes. This full-bodied, complex white wine boasts a balanced profile with flavors that can include dried figs, apricots, honey, and spices. Szamorodni is generally more affordable than Tokaji Aszú, as its production is less labor-intensive. Although it is made from a blend of grapes - some of which may exhibit "noble rot" (botrytis) - it does not follow the specific and highly selective "puttonyos" system used for Aszú wines.

Eszencia is created from the free-run juice that drips naturally from vats filled with individually hand-selected, botrytized aszú berries. Unlike other Tokaji wines like Aszú, no base wine is added to dilute its intensity. it ferments for years due to its extremely high sugar content. The outcome? A low-alcohol, honey-like treat that's so decadent, it’s often served by the spoonful. Why settle for a glass when you can indulge in dessert with a spoon?

But the excitement doesn’t stop there! Modern Tokaj produces stunning dry wines, often highlighting the fabulous Furmint grape, along with delightful sparkling wines crafted using traditional methods.

One hidden gem I adore is the Fordítás - it's flavourful and an amazing value!

I have to admit, I was late to the Fordítás party. I stumbled upon it about 10 years ago when my father and some relatives, who live just across the Tisza River from Tokaj, decided to drag my family to a traditional wine cave with temperatures soaring over 40°C. So, the last thing I wanted was a syrupy-sweet wine!

Then my relatives casually dropped the name Fordítás, which literally means "turned over." At first, I was baffled, picturing them discussing some intricate knitting technique. But when they finally poured the wine, I’m pretty sure the angels sang!

Fordítás is crafted by pouring new wine or must over the lees of previously pressed aszú grapes, then pressing it again. This process uncovers additional layers of flavour and sweetness, making the wine uniquely enjoyable.

Credit: Zsirai Pinceszet

Zsirai Winery's Fordítás

Producer Website

Zsirai Winery's Fordítás embodies this approach: it is sweet, has a low alcohol content of 10%, yet possesses enough acidity to quench your thirst and delight your taste buds.

This family-owned winery is run by sisters Petra and Kata, along with their mother. Located in the town of Mád in the Tokaj region, the family also owns vineyards in Villány and Somló, covering a total of approximately 15 hectares.

Fordítás is aged for 14 months in 220-liter Hungarian barrels, which enhances its complexity, texture, and flavors derived from the oak. Hungarian oak, known for its tight grain, adds structure, spice, and a balanced maturation.

This aging period allows for significant flavour development, introducing tertiary aromas and creating a more structured mouthfeel compared to wines that undergo shorter aging processes.

Let's raise a glass and say "Egészségedre!"

(cheers in Hungarian).

With that spirit, let's prepare some duck rillette!

Duck Rillette with Caramelized Shallots

Servings: 10 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 2 hours | Refrigeration: 2-3 hours

Course: Appetizer, Snack

With their creamy, spreadable texture and the rich flavor that comes from slow-cooking duck meat in its own fat, they surpass regular pâté in both taste and satisfaction. This savory delight is crafted from just four simple ingredients: duck meat, duck fat, salt, and pepper. The French typically make rillettes from pork or duck or goose or rabbit. Consider this is like a fancier, old-school take on your regular canned meat - just a lot more spreadable and way tastier!

Caramelized shallots have a sweet and savory flavor. They are prepared by slowly cooking sliced shallots in oil and butter over low heat until they become tender and golden brown. Serve with sourdough bread and enjoy the authentic, bold flavours!

Duck Rillette

Ingredients:

4 duck legs
1/4 cup brandy (such as Armagnac, Cognac) or dry white wine or dry vermouth
400 ml (approximately 1.5 cups) duck fat
4 cloves of garlic
salt and ground black pepper to taste
3 sprigs fresh thyme or other aromatics

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 165°C /325°F.

In an oven-proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of duck fat over medium heat. Add the duck legs and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until they are browned.

Pour in the liquor and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, allowing the liquid to evaporate completely.

Next, add the remaining duck fat, garlic, and aromatics. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add half a cup of water.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then transfer it to the preheated oven and cook for 2 hours.

Once the cooking time is up, and when the meat is falling off the bone, turn off the heat and let the duck legs cool.

When it is cool, pull off the skin and discard or cut it into the spread, then shred the meat and place in a large bowl.

Add 2 tbsp of the duck fat you have left in the pan to the rillettes and beat together with a stout wooden spoon until the liquid is incorporated.

Keep adding duck fat until the mixture becomes creamy. Do this little by little

Check the seasoning, if needed add more salt and pepper.

Transfer the rillettes to an airtight container. Top with about 1/4 inch of duck fat.

Cover with a lid and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

You can enjoy your rillettes for at least two months! If you make sure there are no air pockets and it's nicely covered in fat, they can last for up to six months.

Caramelized Shallots

Servings: 10 | Preparation: 15 minutes | Cooking: 20-40 minutes

Ingredients:

10-12 large shallots, thinly sliced
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp light muscovado sugar (or brown sugar)
1 cup red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions:

Preheat your oven to 200°C /400°F.

Peel the shallots, removing their outer skins. Slice the shallots in half or into quarters, depending on their size; this will allow them to caramelize beautifully during roasting.

Arrange the sliced shallots in an ovenproof dish, ensuring they are spread out evenly for optimal cooking.

Drizzle olive oil and rich balsamic vinegar over the shallots, add butter, then toss them gently to coat each piece in the mixture.

Place the dish in the preheated oven and let the shallots roast for 20 to 40 minutes.

The roasting time will depend on the size of the shallots and the depth of the dish, allowing them to develop a mouthwatering, golden-brown colour and a tender, melting texture.