Read Part 1 -The West here. My Sicilian Wine Recommendations here. In the second half of our exciting adventure, we headed to the east side of the island! We were thrilled to cross the heart of Sicily by car, soaked in the stunning views and, well, sweat. Fun fact: Sicily is actually closer to the coast of Africa than to mainland Italy. You feel that almost immediately as the landscape shifts and the heat settles in under a blazing sky. What really stands out on this side of the island is just how much ancient Greek history is still visible. Sicily is home to some of the best-preserved Greek ruins in the world (Greece and Turkey might raise an eyebrow at that, but still). From famous archaeological sites to smaller ruins you’d barely find without stumbling across them, it’s all remarkably intact. As an archaeologist and art historian (at least in theory), I understand how exhilarating yet challenging it can be for my kids when we travel. My goal is to share and teach them about the rich tapestry of history and art that surrounds us, and Italy offers a breathtaking array of treasures! I’ve also been lucky that my older daughter has really taken to it. Thanks to Rick Riordan’s Percy Jackson & the Olympians series, she’s developed a real interest in Greek mythology and ancient history. Seeing her get genuinely excited about visiting Greek ruins in real life - after reading about them for so long- felt like a pretty special full-circle moment. The very hot journey from Palermo to Syracuse was positively sizzling but we made pit stops in The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a breathtaking expanse that offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Greek art and architecture from the region of Magna Graecia. Nestled in the rolling hills of Sicily, this archaeological site features monumental ruins, including impressive temples dedicated to gods such as Concordia, Juno, and Hercules. Surrounded by lush landscapes and golden fields, the Valley of the Temples is not only a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations but also a serene and captivating destination, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring the beauty and history of Sicily. The Villa Romana del Casale, located in Piazza Armerina, a magnificent Roman villa renowned for its stunning mosaics and well-preserved ruins.The Villa is like a Pinterest board of Roman life that reveal everything from daily life shenanigans to epic mythological battles. The walls act like social media posts, sharing the glories, and possibly the dramas, of the past. It truly feels like a blast from the past, highlighting just how sophisticated the Romans were. You’ll leave with the impression that they really knew how to master feng shui in the early 4th century AD in this Sicilian hunting lodge. Fresh from our visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we were so eager to see real mosaics in their original settings, and they certainly didn’t disappoint! If you find yourself in these area, I wholeheartedly encourage you to visit these incredible sites. Syracuse During the second week of our Sicilian adventure, we were staying in Syracuse, in a lovely modern townhouse just outside the Belvedere district. Syracuse, the former home of Archimedes, truly captivated us - especially the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum (Via Vincenzo Mirabella, 31, 96100 Siracusa), which our kids absolutely adored! Syracuse is not only steeped in history, being a significant jewel of the ancient Greek world, but it’s also one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had the joy of visiting. Exploring the city is an absolute delight! Begin your journey in the narrow streets of the old city, Ortigia, where history comes alive. The local market was one of the best I seen not only in Sicult bit in Italy altogehter. Make it a priority to visit the magnificent Duomo di Siracusa. This breathtaking cathedral has a layered history-it originally stood as the Temple of Athena, and you can still spot traces of that past in the Doric columns and ancient stonework embedded within the structure. What makes it even more striking is the Baroque façade, bright and white-washed, glowing under the August sun. It’s the kind of place that genuinely stops you in your tracks. (Full disclosure: I may have shed a tear. Just one. Very discreet.) At the far end of Duomo Piazza, you’ll discover the charming church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Tucked behind the altar is a striking painting by Caravaggio. My husband and I have developed what can only be described as a mild case of Caravaggio fever, or let’s be honest, Caravaggomania. We’ve started tracking his works wherever we travel, like two very enthusiastic art detectives with no real authority but plenty of confidence. There are roughly 60 to 80 paintings attributed to Caravaggio, though even that number is debated. A few lucky people apparently have one hanging in their living room (which feels wildly unfair), but most of his works are split between museums and churches. That’s our sweet spot, the ones you can actually go and see in person, preferably without needing a private collector’s budget. Seeing The Burial of Santa Lucia in Syracuse was a real highlight for us, even if it has since been moved back to its original home at the Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro. And while you’re in Syracuse, the Neapolis Archaeological Park is absolutely worth the detour. Between the ancient Greek theatre, the Roman amphitheatre, and the surreal Ear of Dionysius cave, it’s one of those places where history feels less like something you read about and more like something you’re standing inside. Taormina Taormina, Sicily's renowned resort town, is filled with lively restaurants, shops, and beautiful beaches. Although it can become quite crowded with tourists, the panoramic views of Mount Etna and the coastline from the Greek amphitheater are truly unforgettable. During our visit, Mount Etna, the majestic volcano, dramatically showcased its power by erupting. It sent plumes of ash and fiery red lava high into the sky, creating a breathtaking and humbling sight. And be sure to treat yourself to a delicious granita siciliana at Bam Bar (Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME) - a refreshing frozen treat that you can enjoy at any time of the day, not just for breakfast as the locals typically do! We capped off our sunny day at Isola Bella beach by indulging in delicious Grilled Swordfish and the iconic Parmigiana di Melanzane al forno, all perfectly complemented by local Carricante Etna Bianco D.O.C. Val di Noto - The Baroque Towns Ragusa, Noto, and Modica, along with a few other charming towns we didn’t explore, are treasures of the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, proudly recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites! Celebrated for their stunning Late Baroque architecture. They were reconstructed in the late 17th century after a devastating earthquake and feature magnificent churches, elegant palaces, and unique cultural heritages. Ragusa We had the pleasure of spending an entire day exploring the captivating city of Ragusa. The scenic drive from Syracuse takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, making it a perfect lead-up to a day filled with adventure. A helpful tip for fellow travelers: many churches close for lunch, so if you're arriving around noon, you might need to plan your visits for later in the afternoon, around 4 or 5 PM. We arrived at 11:00 AM, and after parking our car, we took our time strolling through the charming, steep streets. On our way to the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, we enjoyed glimpses of several smaller but incredibly beautiful churches. Unfortunately, when we reached the Duomo just before noon, we discovered it was closed for the lunch break. My husband, ever the optimist, made a valiant attempt to convince the door guard to let us in. But she was not budging - her lunch plans were sacred, and I think even the statue behind her looked a bit nervous! The exterior of the church is truly a sight to behold, standing proudly as the heart of the town. We spent a delightful afternoon eagerly anticipating the beauty that awaited us inside. As we meandered through the charming streets of Ragusa, our kids had the most wonderful time playing in the picturesque Giardino Ibleo. They were thrilled to discover not just more churches, but also some inviting Italian slides and balance beams! After savoring a delicious lunch, we were excited to finally explore the church. Although the interior didn’t quite meet our lofty expectations, it couldn’t diminish our overall appreciation of the day. Ragusa is split into two captivating areas: the historic Ragusa Ibla and the elevated Ragusa Superiore, separated by the breathtaking Valle dei Ponti. Before wrapping up our visit, we stopped by the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore. Its stunning interior and majestic façade made the perfect backdrop for capturing memories of our journey in this beautiful city! Modica We arrived in the enchanting town of Modica as evening fell, and it turned out to be the perfect timing for dinner! We discovered a true culinary treasure at Contrade Sicilian Food Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of the finest meals of our entire Italian adventure. Tucked away in a charming alley, this gem is a proud participant in the Sicilian slow food movement, and it did not disappoint. We also enjoyed Modica’s famous chocolate and its delightful creations, including some with alcohol, such as an exquisite chocolate liqueur. The Cioccolato di Modica, recognized as an Italian P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-food Product), boasts a rich heritage based on ancient Aztec recipes smuggled into Italy by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it’s like a delicious time machine for your taste buds! Noto Our journey continued with an afternoon visit to Noto, just a scenic 40-minute drive from Syracuse. This vibrant city definitely had a more touristy vibe, especially in August, buzzing with both visitors and locals. We climbed to the rooftop of Chiesa Santa Chiara, where we were treated to a stunning view of Noto—a mesmerizing showcase of baroque architecture with its golden sandstone churches and palaces. The magnificent Noto Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and several other baroque churches were easily accessible, adding to the charm of our visit. To top off our experience, we even had a delightful encounter with a Sicilian wedding at sunset! Before leaving Noto, I highly recommend stopping by Caffè Sicilia (Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR). This iconic café, run by the Assenza family since 1892 on the main street is known for serving some of the best gelato you could ever taste. Their unique and intense granita ice cream flavours are a must-try! Our adventure in Sicily was not just a fascinating journey; it also served as the perfect warm-up for the exciting travels that lay ahead. We wrapped up our Sicilian experience before diving into the wonders of three weeks in Rome—another incredible blend of Antiquity and Baroque! Best of Sicily We were enchanted by the vibrant colours, inviting aromas, and the stunning blend of architectural styles. The unique traditions and warm hospitality of the Sicilian people made our time there truly unforgettable. Our Hilarious Adventure in Sicily (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 and 9) 1. Culture: - Piazza Armerina - Ancient Greek ruins of Segesta and Agrigento - Baroque towns: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa - The Norman cathedral of Monreale - Ortygia (checking out the Archimedes Museum) - Syracuse Cathedral - Archaeological Museum of Syracuse 2. Beaches: - San Vito lo Capo - Mondello 3. Restaurants: - La Baronia in Caccamo - Contrade Sicilian Food in Modica 4. Markets: - Mercato di Siracusa - Mercato il Capo in Palermo (we liked it better than the famous Ballarò) 5. Granita: - Bam Bar in Taormina - Caffè Sicilia in Noto (where granita is basically a food group) 6. Espresso: - Bar del Corso in Palermo Regrets 1. Not staying in an agriturismo: an independently-owned farm that offers accommodation for an authentic rural experience. 2. Starting our Sicilian stay in Palermo: in hindsight, I would begin our journey in Siracusa and explore the eastern side of the island first. Once we were "acclimated" to Sicily, we could then visit Palermo. 3. Failing to connect with enough locals. 4. Missing out on the Marsala wine region and the province of Trapani. 5. Not exploring Sicily’s wine country properly: we barely scratched the surface of the island’s vineyards - no time in the volcanic terroir of Mount Etna DOC, and no deep dive into the island’s incredible indigenous grapes like Nerello Mascalese or Grillo. >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 1

If this title isn’t self-explanatory, no other place has inspired me to explore more than Sicily. I have visited Italy many times, but I never traveled further south than Rome. Sicily was certainly uncharted territory. This time, after spending an amazing month in Northern(-ish) Italy, exploring the charm of Milan, Florence, and Venice, and the Amalfi Coast (the usual suspects for a typical Italian holiday), we were ready for something different. So we headed south, as a family of four with two very energetic kids (7 and 9), to see what Sicily would throw at us. Sicily’s incredible position between Europe and Africa has made it a melting pot of cultures for centuries, which gives the island its unique, vibrant character. Though it boasts a rich tapestry of heritage, it still often gets overlooked or left out of the typical Italian itinerary by many travellers in favour of more popular spots. Our two-week exploration of this captivating island in Italy's deep south left me eager for more, and I am not just talking about the delicious food: arancini, cannoli, and granitas! Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, feels less like a destination and more like something you slowly uncover. To make the most of it, we split our time between two excellent bases: lively Palermo on the west coast for the first week, and the more laid-back, charming Syracuse on the east for the second. Palermo We rented a beautiful Airbnb in Palermo’s historic Kalsa neighbourhood, and somehow ended up with front-row seats to one of the best views in the city. The apartment sat just above the seaside promenade and the terrace of the Mura delle Cattive: a 17th-century stretch of stone that now doubles as a perfect place to linger and pretend you live there. Just around the corner, at Butera 28, lived Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. He stayed there until his death in 1957, which adds a certain literary weight to your morning coffee run, whether you asked for it or not. Like much of Palermo, the promenade didn’t have an easy history. It was heavily damaged during World War II and then, in classic Italian fashion, took a few decades to get its act together. Restoration finally began in 1997, and it reopened the following year. The result? A place that feels both historic and surprisingly alive. Walking along it now, you can almost picture the old well-dressed, slightly dramatic aristocratic crowd, stepping out for their evening passeggiata. These days, the terraces are private, but the promenade itself is very much public territory, lined with spots for a drink, a granita, or something stronger if the day calls for it. And it’s never quiet. You’ve got 90-year-olds holding court like they own the place, teenagers orbiting in packs, kids running wild, and babies observing it all like tiny, judgmental emperors. Even at midnight, it’s buzzing, like the entire neighbourhood collectively agreed that sleep is optional. 1. Porta Felice; 2. Marionettes at the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino; 3. Fish stall at Il Capo market; 4. Palermo street with view of the Cathedral; 5. Chess players in Monreale; 6. Palermo street with laundry hanging on lines; 7. Chiosco Vicari Piazza Giuseppe Verdi; 8. Barista at Bar del Corso,Via Vittorio Emanuele, Palermo | Credit: Sipandsavour.blog Palermo, the capital and main port of Sicily, hits you all at once. It’s vibrant, a little rough around the edges, and full of personality—the kind of place that doesn’t try to impress you, but does anyway. It can feel overwhelming, especially with kids in tow, but that’s part of the deal. Palermo doesn’t ease you in; it throws you straight into it. Chaos is part of the charm here. Traffic signs are more like gentle suggestions, and driving feels like a group improv exercise. Grand buildings, once elegant, now wear their cracks and graffiti like badges of honour. Stray dogs follow you down the poetic alleys, and self-proclaimed “security guards” promise to keep your vehicle safe (for a few Euros) as if the elderly men sitting in front of each building all day weren’t enough to ensure the area’s safety. The piazzas are always buzzing, packed with restaurants that somehow keep finding space for one more table, even if it ends up tucked into a dimly lit side street. And people are perfectly happy about it. That’s Palermo: a bit chaotic, slightly improvised, but full of life. The best way to get it is to stop trying to control the experience. Wander. Get lost. Follow your nose into one of the street markets, where you’ll find everything from fresh seafood of questionable origin to stigghiola - grilled lamb intestines on skewers, which sound intimidating but are surprisingly good. Sicilian Marionettes - Opera dei Pupi For a wonderful family-friendly outing, be sure to visit the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Piazza Antonio Pasqualino, 5, 90133 Palermo). This museum features a fascinating collection of marionettes from around the world and has the potential to become a must-see attraction with some added support. The incredible collection of traditional Sicilian puppets is truly a sight to behold! Anyone visiting Sicily will undoubtedly notice these charming marionettes in local shops. While they might initially seem like typical tourist trinkets, these puppets are, in fact, vital symbols of Sicilian cultural identity. They play an integral role in the Opera dei Pupi, a captivating form of Sicilian entertainment that dates back to at least the 15th century. My youngest daughter couldn’t resist spending her entire trip budget on a replica puppet, a stunning Angelica dressed in beautiful turquoise chiffon and armor. An Eclectic Architectural Journey Amid a touch of dirt and rubble, this island still shines as a captivating treasure trove of ancient, medieval, and Baroque architecture, sure to enchant anyone who explores its remarkable beauty. Palermo is a delightful gem, filled with breathtaking Baroque architecture intertwined with enchanting medieval elements. In the 11th century, Robert Guiscard of the House of Hauteville set out from Normandy with his brother Roger to conquer Sicily from the Saracens. The Normans remained for over 130 years, creating remarkable monuments in the unique Norman-Sicilian style. Today, these architectural wonders continue to impress visitors, making it a historic destination well worth exploring. 1. Cefalù Cathedral; 2-5. Monreale Cathedral Must-see sites These include the awe-inspiring Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral of Palermo, the Monreale Cathedral (a half-day trip that is absolutely worthwhile), Cefalù (perfect for a day trip that pairs beautifully with some beach time or exploring the medieval castle of Caccamo), and Messina (the essential port connecting Sicily to mainland Italy). Each of these locations is a testament to the rich tapestry of Sicilian history, and I couldn’t recommend them more. Beaches When you're in Italy with kids, a few beach days (or half-days) are non-negotiable, because let’s face it: nothing keeps the little ones happy like sun, sand, and splashing in the waves! Sicily has a whopping 1,000 kilometres (that’s about 600 miles for those not on the ‘kilometre’ train) of coastline, so you’re in for a treat. My favourite beach was hands down Mondello: clear, beautiful water and soft sandy cove beach just west of Palermo. It seemed very popular with young Sicilians and tourists as well and a fun place to get away from the chaos of Palermo and catch some rays. 1. Mondello; 2. San Vito lo Capo; 3. Cefalù In a close second is San Vito lo Capo, a picturesque coastal town that’s about a two-hour drive from Palermo. It’s like a scene from a postcard, nestled under Monte Cofano, a dramatic limestone cliff that looks like nature’s crown jewel. You can also explore nearby coves and the Zingaro nature reserve. Don't miss the stunning Lungomare di Cefalù! Just a short distance from town, it offers breathtaking views that you'll absolutely love. With all these options, you’re bound to find a spot that’s just right for soaking up the sun and pretending you don’t hear the kids arguing over who gets the last sandcastle bucket! >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 2

Even in the height of summer - on a Saturday, no less - we somehow had the Beaujolais hills almost entirely to ourselves. It felt a bit like wandering through a department store after closing: quiet, slightly surreal, and oddly luxurious. As we headed north on the Autoroute du Soleil, the mood only got better. While most people were crawling south toward the Côte d’Azur or Spain, we were gliding in the opposite direction. Hard not to feel just a little smug watching long lines of French, Dutch, and Belgian holiday traffic inch along while we sailed past. Caveat lector: this blog is more than just about food and wine! In addition to my love for wine, I have a deep passion for art and the history of art and architecture (especially old, very old ones) —so deep, in fact, that I hold a somewhat impractical degree in the field. If you come across my posts about art from various wine regions (like the one below), I hope they pique your interest. But if they don’t? No hard feelings, I won't judge! While starting an art history blog is tempting, let’s be honest: the only thing scarcer than my writing would be my blog’s readership! Cluny Abbey I’ll admit, I wasn’t sure Sunday would be the most exciting day - we had planned a visit to Cluny Abbey, which, while a dream for medieval art history enthusiasts (guilty), doesn’t always scream lively outing. But Cluny had other plans. We arrived to a town full of energy: Romanesque houses, narrow medieval streets, and just enough buzz to make it feel alive without being overwhelming. The abbey itself more than lives up to the hype. Founded in 910 as a Benedictine monastery, Cluny once sat at the centre of a vast monastic network that stretched across Europe, with thousands of monks under its influence. At its height, the church was the largest in the Christian world, until St. Peter’s Basilica took over centuries later. Not bad for a Sunday that I thought might be quiet. In the early 12th century, the order faced some challenges due to leadership changes. While the Papal Schism in the 14th century further strained the organization, it was the French Revolution that ultimately led to its suppression in France. The once-magnificent monastery at Cluny suffered partly from demolition, with its stones repurposed as a quarry until 1823. However, there’s good news for visitors today! You can still admire the impressive remnants of one transept of the abbey church, along with the elegant 15th-century residential quarters for the abbots and the charming 18th-century convent buildings. Even in their present condition, these ruins speak to the abbey's former glory and scale. I highly recommend climbing the 11th-century defensive tower attached to the abbey. Yes, it’s about 120 steps, and yes, you’ll question your life choices halfway up - but the view at the top more than makes up for it. You get a sweeping look over Cluny and the surrounding countryside that feels properly earned. The tower is called La Tour des Fromages, literally, the “Cheese Tower”. It used to be known as La Tour des Fèves, or “Bean Tower”, which, let’s be honest, doesn’t have quite the same appeal. The name change has nothing to do with medieval cheese worship, unfortunately. In the 19th century, a resourceful local woman repurposed the tower as a cheese-drying space, and just like that, its identity shifted from military defence to dairy production. A solid upgrade, if you ask me. Today, it stands as a slightly unexpected tribute to cheese, less about guarding against invaders, more about celebrating the finer things in life. Because who needs beans when you can have brie? Here are a couple of fantastic places you won’t want to miss: Le Potin Gourmand Restaurant - 4 Pl. du Champ de Foire, 71250 Cluny, France Nestled in a beautifully preserved 18th-century pottery workshop at the edge of the medieval town, this restaurant serves delightful classic Burgundy cuisine with a modern twist. Au Plaisir Dit Vin - Wine Shop - 19 Rue Mercière, 71250 Cluny, France With a knowledgeable staff eager to assist, you'll find an intriguing and high-quality selection of wines and spirits all tailored to fit every budget. Happy sipping and savouring!

No family lineage of recipes, no formal training. Just a lot of enthusiasm and a curious palate. These are four dishes we keep coming back to at home. The kind that have quietly worked their way into our regular rotation: comforting, full of flavour, and reliably satisfying every time. Kimchi sundubu jjigae, at the top of the list is, a rich, warming stew that really shines on cold winter nights. That said, we’re not strict about seasons in our kitchen. If you’re craving it, you make it. Seafood pancakes - perfect as an appetizer, an easy light supper, or the kind of "just one more piece" situation that somehow turns into dinner. Perilla oil buckwheat noodles with pulled pork - elegant but still a little rustic, and just as good served cold on a hot summer day. Beef bulgogi with japchae noodles and banchan - a classic Korean favourite, paired with those glossy glass noodles to keep things a bit lighter, plus a whole spread of vibrant side dishes. For each dish, I’ve included a wine pairing list, something a little unexpected if you’re in the mood to switch things up from the usual soju and try a different kind of balance at the table. I’ve also written a slightly long and very eclectic article about Korean food culture - consider this your friendly warning before you click. A quick note: I’m not Korean. What I know comes from a mix of cooking, reading, and eating some truly great Korean food around the city. These recipes are my take on dishes I genuinely love and cook often. I hope these recipes find their way into your kitchen and become favourites for you, too. Haemul Pajeon Seafood Scallion Pancakes (해물 파전) Serving: 4 Prep time: 5 minutes | Cook time: 10 minutes Pajeon is a popular Korean savoury pancake where fresh green onions (pa = scallion) really take centre stage, giving it its signature aroma and flavour. In Korean pancakes, or jeon, the ingredients like seafood and scallions aren’t mixed into a batter beforehand. Instead, they’re laid out in the pan and then lightly covered with batter. That coating sets as it cooks and holds the ingredients together, rather than forming a fully mixed dough. When seafood is added, it becomes haemul pajeon. I usually go with calamari or prawns, but it’s pretty flexible: clams, mussels, oysters, or whatever you’ve got on hand all work well. You can also skip the seafood entirely and still end up with a really solid vegetarian version. If you add kimchi, they are called kimchi jeon. A splash of sparkling water in the batter can help keep things lighter and crispier, though it does make the mixture a bit thicker. Heat control is important too: too high and it burns before the inside cooks through, too low and you lose that crisp edge and end up with something greasy instead of golden and crunchy. You can either fry smaller pancakes, which are easier to handle and result in crispier pieces, or make one large pancake and cut it into portions. Ingredients Pancakes 120 g / 1 cup flour 8 g / 1 tbsp cornstarch 1 1/8 tsp salt 1 1/8 tsp garlic powder 1 1/8 tsp onion powder (You can also use a premixed Korean pancake mix to replace these five ingredients.) 240 ml / 1 cup ice-cold tap or sparkling water 1 egg, beaten 6 tbsp / 3 fl oz cooking oil Filling 12 green onions, cleaned and cut lengthways to fit your skillet 1 small red chilli, thinly sliced (optional) 200 g / 7 oz fresh shrimp, calamari, prawns Dipping Sauce 1 tbsp / 15 gram sugar 2 tbsp / 30 ml soy sauce 2 tbsp / 30 ml rice vinegar 2 tbsp / 30 ml water 2 tsp / 10 ml toasted sesame oil 1 tsp sesame seeds (black and/or white) thinly sliced onion pieces (optional) Make the Dipping Sauce first, even the day before, keep refrigerated by mixing all the ingredients. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, and cold water until smooth. (You can pour the batter into a jug to make it easier to handle later.) Cut the green onions into 3 cm / about 1¼ inch pieces. Slice the red chilli thinly. Roughly chop the shrimp and other seafood. Heat about 1 tablespoons (15 ml) of oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Let the pan get properly hot; test it by dropping in a little batter; it should sizzle immediately. Once ready, pour just under half of the batter into the pan and spread it thinly and evenly. Lay half of the green onion tops across the batter in parallel lines. Lightly spoon a bit more batter over the top and into the gaps to help everything stick together. Scatter over some calamari, prawns, and chilli slices if using. Drizzle half of the beaten egg across the surface. Cook for about 4 minutes until the bottom begins to set and turn golden. Gently shake or swirl the pan occasionally so it doesn’t stick. Carefully flip the pancake. Add a little extra oil around the edges if needed to help crisp it up. Press down lightly with a spatula to encourage browning and crisp texture. Cook for another 3–4 minutes until fully cooked and golden. Remove from the pan and repeat with the remaining batter and toppings. Slice into bite-sized pieces and serve hot with the pancake dipping sauce. Wine Pairing Tips Haemul pajeon sits somewhere between crispy, oily comfort food and fresh, briny seafood dish. The key is contrast: you want wines with bright acidity, a touch of lift (or bubbles), and clean flavours that cut through the fried batter while highlighting the scallions and seafood. Sauvignon Blanc (classic go-to) A crisp, high-acid white that just works every time. Its herbal edge mirrors the green onion while the acidity slices through the oil. Vinho Verde (light, zippy, refreshing) lightly effervescent and low in alcohol, this is an easy, refreshing pairing that keeps each bite feeling light. Pinot Gris (for a rounder option) Choose a style with good acidity (think Alsace). It brings a bit more body without overwhelming the dish. Grüner Veltliner Dry, energetic, and slightly peppery, great with anything green and savoury. Champagne or sparkling wine Bubbles are your best friend here, they cleanse the palate and make the dish feel lighter and more refined. Dry to off-dry Riesling A versatile option, especially if your dipping sauce leans salty or slightly spicy. Sundubu Jjigae Soft Tofu Kimchi Stew (김치순두부찌개) Serving: 4 Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 30 minutes A classic Korean stew made with fermented kimchi, pork, and uncurdled, extra-soft egg tofu called sundubu, along with aromatics, simmered into a rich, spicy, and tangy broth. At Korean grocery stores, you’ll usually come across soft "egg" tofu in two main forms. The most common is a long cylindrical plastic pouch, while the other comes in a standard square tofu container. I tend to prefer the cylinder-style soft tofu because it’s faster and easier to use in soups and stews. You just slice into the middle of the package (careful—there’s usually a bit of liquid), push the tofu out, and cut it straight into rounds over the pot. That said, either version works just fine for this dish. If you can, pick it up at an Asian supermarket like A-Mart or T&T in Canada - the tofu there is usually cleaner, with fewer additives. And if you see an organic option, even better. It’s not typically expensive, and worth choosing when available (tip: Pulmuone is a solid brand). Sundubu Jjigae is often served bubbling hot in a traditional earthenware pot (ttukbaegi) with a raw egg cracked in just before serving. These pots usually serve two portions, so I make ours in a larger pot or cast iron for at least four people. It is served with rice. Ingredients 250 g / 9 oz pork belly or shoulder, sliced in small cubes 200 g / 1 cup well-fermented kimchi 1 medium/large onion 3 cloves garlic 1 tbsp gochujang 1/2 tbsp korean pepper flakes (gochugaru) 30 ml / 2.5 tbsp neutral-tasting oil 750 ml / 3 cups water (or rice water) 1/4 tsp kosher salt, to season 1-or 2 tube of egg tofu 2-4 eggs, to serve, optional Finish 2 green onions, chopped Sesame oil - drizzled at the end to enhance flavour Optional: mushrooms (I always add shiitake when adding the kimchi), zucchini Instructions Prep Cut the pork into bite-sized pieces. Chop the kimchi into similar-sized chunks (well-fermented, slightly tangy kimchi really makes this dish). Slice the green onions thinly, mince the garlic. Cook the stew Heat the oil in a pot or wok over medium-high heat. Add the pork and cook for about 6 minutes, until it’s browned and the fat has rendered. Add the onion and garlic, and cook for 1–2 minutes until fragrant and lightly coloured. Reduce the heat to medium, then add the kimchi and gochujang. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until the kimchi softens and everything is well combined. Pour in the water and bring it to a boil. Once it starts bubbling, lower the heat slightly and let it simmer for another 20 minutes. Taste and adjust: add a bit of salt if needed (around 1/4 tsp), or a pinch of sugar if it’s too sour. Add the soft tofu, gently breaking it into large pieces with a spoon or if you are using the tub, cut into slices. Let it simmer for about 3 more minutes. To finish (optional but recommended) Top with sliced chilies and green onions. Bring it to a boil until it’s piping hot, then take it off the heat. Serve immediately with steamed rice. Wine Pairing Tips Sundubu jjigae sits firmly in the world of bold, spicy comfort food: rich, bubbling, and full of heat. The trick is balance: you want wines with bright acidity, low tannins, and ideally a touch of sweetness or fizz to cool things down and reset your palate between bites. Riesling (off-dry, slightly sweet) A go-to for spicy dishes. The touch of sweetness helps tame the heat, while the acidity keeps everything fresh and balanced. Sauvignon Blanc (crisp and herbal) Bright, citrusy, and refreshing. It cuts through the richness of the broth and adds a clean contrast to the spice. Dry Rosé (easy and versatile) Chilled rosé brings freshness and just enough structure to handle both the spice and the savoury depth of the stew. Sparkling wine (Prosecco or pét-nat) Bubbles work wonders here—they cleanse the palate, lighten each bite, and keep the heat from building too much. Pinot Noir (lightly chilled) If you’re in the mood for red, go light. A young Pinot Noir with low tannins won’t clash with the spice and complements the savoury flavours nicely. Aromatic whites (Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer) These bring expressive aromatics and enough acidity to stand up to the intensity of the dish without overwhelming it. Serving tip Keep whites and rosés well chilled (around 7–10°C / 45°F to 50°F), and serve lighter reds slightly cool. Avoid heavy, tannic reds. They tend to amplify the heat rather than soften it. Deulgireum Makguksu Perilla Oil Buckwheat Noodles with Pulled Pork (들기름 막국수) Serving: 4 Prep time: 35 minutes | Cook time: 3–4 hours for the pulled pork; active cooking for the rest is 20 minutes Korean buckwheat noodles (deulgireum makguksu) are light, nutty, and fragrant, typically tossed in perilla oil and finished with fresh, crisp garnishes. In this version, they’re paired with slow-braised Korean-style pulled pork coated in a slightly sweet and smoky BBQ-style sauce, adding richness and depth. Fresh greens help balance the dish, making it hearty yet still refreshing. For the pulled pork, we use about 2 kg (4.5 lbs) of pork shoulder. This larger cut is ideal for slow cooking: it stays juicy, breaks down into tender strands, and develops deeper flavour over time. It also yields leftovers that work beautifully in rice bowls, sandwiches, or even kimbap-style rolls. Ingredients For the Pulled Pork 2 kg / 4.4 lbs pork shoulder 1 tbsp garlic powder 1 tsp onion powder 1 tbsp brown sugar Salt & pepper, to taste 1 dash avocado oil or lard 200 ml / 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar 200 ml / 3/4 cupchicken stock 100 ml / 1/3 cup Korean BBQ sauce** Rub the pork with garlic, onion powder, brown sugar, salt, and pepper. In a dutch oven, sear it in a oil/lard until browned all over. Add apple cider vinegar, chicken stock, and Korean BBQ sauce. Slow-cook or braise until the pork is fall-apart tender. Shred it and keep it warm. Perilla Oil Sauce 5 tbsp perilla oil or sub with sesame oil 4 tbsp soy sauce 3 tsp sugar 1 cup Korean roasted seaweed flakes (optional) In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine soy sauce, perilla oil, and sugar and mix until the sugar dissolves to create the noodle sauce. Set aside. Braised Bok Choi 4 bok choi, halved 2 tbsp neutral oil (I use avocado) 4 knobs butter 2 tsp soy sauce 2 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp mirin or sugar Heat oil and butter in a pan, add bok choi cut-side down, and sear lightly. Add soy sauce, fish sauce, and mirin, then cover and let it braise for a few minutes until tender but still bright green. The Noodles 400-500 g buckwheat noodles (memil-guksu or soba) Cook and drain the noodles. Strain and rinse them with cold running water until cold. Then drain and shake out as much excess water in the noodles as possible. Assembly & Garnish 4 egg yolks 1 handful fresh coriander leaves 2 carrot, julienned 3 spring onion, julienned Pinch of chili flakes Transfer the noodles into the bowl with the noodle sauce. Add roasted seaweed flakes and toss well. Top with pulled pork, braised bok choi, egg yolks, carrot, spring onion, coriander, and a pinch of chili flakes, sesame seeds, green onions. Quick Korean BBQ Sauce Time: 10 min | Servings: 8 Ingredients: 180 ml / 3/4 cup soy sauce or tamari 80 ml / 1/3 cup maple syrup or brown sugar 2 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp minced garlic 1 tbsp grated ginger 1 tbsp chili garlic sauce/gochujang 1 tsp toasted sesame oil ¼ tsp black pepper 1 tbsp cornstarch + 1 tbsp water 1 tsp red pepper flakes (optional) 1 scallion, finely chopped (optional) Instructions: Simmer soy sauce, sweetener, vinegar, garlic, ginger, chili, sesame oil, and pepper. Stir in cornstarch slurry, cook 2–3 min until thick. Add red pepper flakes & scallions if desired. Cool, store in fridge up to 2 weeks. Wine Pairing Tip This dish sits in a complex zone: nutty perilla oil, sweet-smoky pork, gentle spice, and umami richness. The best wines either refresh the palate, echo the spice-sweet balance, or cut through the richness without clashing with the oil. Off-dry Riesling (Best overall pairing) Look for Kabinett or slightly off-dry styles with high acidity and a touch of residual sugar. The slight sweetness mirrors the BBQ glaze on the pork, while the acidity lifts the rich pork fat and perilla oil. Handles any heat or spicy banchan-style garnishes effortlessly. Grüner Veltliner A dry, high-acid white with a signature peppery edge. The white pepper character echoes spice in the pork rub and cuts through oiliness. Lambrusco (dry or off-dry) - fun bubbles, light, fizzy red wine from Italy, seriously underrated here. The bubbles cleanse the palate from sticky pork glaze and perilla oil. Beef Bulgogi with Japchae Noodles (불고기 - 잡채) Serving: 4 Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 35 minutes Bulgogi ("fire meat") is thinly sliced marinated beef, flavoured with soy, sesame, garlic, ginger, sugar, Asian pear, and pepper. Savoury, sweet, and salty, spicy - adjust heat, sugar or soy to taste. Bulgogi can be cooked on a grill or in a pan/skillet. Either way, the taste is slightly different but always delicious! Tip: Cook in batches to avoid overcrowding, which ensures even browning and maximum flavour. Japchae are chewy sweet potato glass noodles, often served during festive occasions alongside bulgogi. While it’s more common to enjoy the meat over rice, Japchae is a family favourite in our house. Simple, flavourful, and satisfying enough to be a meal on its own. To balance the sweet and savoury flavours of the beef and noodles, a few banchan (side dish) are traditionally served alongside the meal. Here, we opted for a family-style setup. The noodles and beef could easily be mixed together as is customary, but serving them separately allows even the pickiest eaters to better understand and enjoy each component while choosing what they want from the selection. Best Beef for Bulgogi Ribeye: marbled and flavourful - top pick. Top Sirloin: Leaner but still juicy and often more budget-friendly. Tenderloin: Ultra-tender, luxurious, $$$ Flank/Skirt Steak: Affordable option; works well with a good marinade. Slicing Tips: Buy pre-sliced beef at Korean/Asian markets or larger grocery stores! Partially freeze for 15–30 min to make thin slicing easier and slice against the grain for maximum tenderness. Ingredients Beef Bulgogi 700 g / 1½ lbs boneless ribeye, shaved or very thinly sliced ½ small yellow onion, thinly sliced 30 ml / 2 tbsp neutral oil (I use avocado) Marinade 120 ml / ½ cup soy sauce 45 g / 3 tbsp brown sugar 30 ml/2 tbsp mirin (rice wine) 15 ml/1 tbsp sesame oil ¼ tsp cracked black pepper 1 small Asian pear (≈170 g), peeled, cored, and chopped (or 1 sweet apple, such as Gala) ½ small yellow onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves 5 g/1 tsp minced ginger 15 ml/1 tbsp gochujang Garnish 1 green onion, thinly sliced 5 g/1 tsp toasted sesame seeds Instructions Prep the beef: Place the beef and thinly sliced onion in a mixing bowl and toss to combine. Make the marinade: Add all marinade ingredients to a blender and blend until smooth. Marinate: Pour the marinade over the beef and onion, mixing until evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, up to 24 hours. Cook the beef: Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the oil and swirl to coat. Add half the beef and onion mixture, cooking 4–6 minutes, stirring occasionally until cooked through. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining oil and beef. Combine and serve: Mix all cooked beef together. Top with green onions and sesame seeds, and serve immediately. Japchea 200 grams / 7 oz dangmyeon noodles (Korean sweet potato vermicelli) 3-5 shiitake mushrooms 1 carrot 2 handfuls of spinach 1 onion drizzle of sesame oil (drizzle on at the end) Marinade 3 ½ tbsp soy sauce 3 tbsp sesame oil 1 ½ tbsp sugar 1 tsp minced garlic, optional 4-5 cracks black pepper Wine Pairing Tip For a meal like beef bulgogi with japchae and a spread of vibrant banchan, the ideal wine should balance sweet, savoury, spicy, and tangy flavours while refreshing the palate between rich, sesame-laced bites. Off-dry Riesling (Kabinett or Spätlese) This is arguably the single best overall match. The slight sweetness handles bulgogi’s marinade, while acidity keeps kimchi and pickles in check. Gamay (Beaujolais-Villages or Cru) Light tannins + bright red fruit = doesn’t fight sesame oil or soy, and won’t overpower japchae. Pinot Noir (fruity, not oaky) If you want something a bit bolder for charred bulgogi. Just avoid heavily oaked versions, they’ll clash with soy/garlic sweetness. Sparkling rosé or dry pét-nat This is the most underrated choice for Korean BBQ-style meals. The bubbles reset your palate between bites of fatty beef, sesame noodles, and spicy kimchi. What to avoid: Big tannic reds (Cabernet, Bordeaux blends), Oaky whites (buttery Chardonnay, oak-heavy Viognier), Very dry, low-acid wines (flat Pinot Blanc, some cheap Pinot Grigio), Overly sweet dessert wines (Sauternes, late-harvest styles), Very high-alcohol wines (15%+ jammy reds). Happy sipping and savouring! - 맛있게 드시고 즐거운 시간 보내세요

👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. High in the Vaud Alps, Switzerland’s easygoing, broad-shouldered cows spend their summers wandering through wildflower meadows, quietly transforming mountain herbs and hours of Alpine sunshine into the milk that makes Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP*. When autumn paints its first cool strokes across the ridges, everything changes. The cows leave the high pastures, and their milk becomes richer, denser, too luxurious for the large alpine wheels of Gruyère. That’s when another cheese takes the spotlight: Vacherin Mont-d’Or , the soft, spoonable winter specialty that Swiss cheese lovers await each year with the kind of excitement usually reserved for limited-edition treasures. Elegant, fleeting, and a little theatrical, Vacherin appears only in the colder months, transforming chilly evenings into a ritual of warmth, aroma, and slow-melting indulgence. * For cheese, the European Union’s Appellation d’Origine Protégée - AOP- is the same certification system used for wine. I lived in Switzerland, right in the Canton of Vaud, where this cheese is born, for nearly a decade, and in that time I picked up a pretty solid appreciation for the local dairy magic. I’m no official expert, but I am a devoted cheese enthusiast, and if I ever had to choose between cheese and… well, most other things, cheese would win with embarrassing ease. And Vacherin Mont-d’Or? That wasn’t merely cheese. It was a seasonal ritual, a cultural countdown. Every autumn, the moment it reappeared on shop shelves, the Swiss didn’t just smiled (a noteworthy event on its own); they positively beamed . In wine terms, it carried all the fanfare of Beaujolais Nouveau : that annual "It’s here!!" frenzy. Only instead of sprinting for the first bottle, everyone hurried toward a spruce-bound box of gloriously molten dairy. So yes, I may have moved away, but Switzerland’s most eagerly awaited winter cheese still lives rent-free in my heart… and, if we’re being honest, almost certainly in my cholesterol. One note: these seasonal superstars shouldn’t be confused with Le Gruyère AOP, one of the world’s most celebrated cheeses and essentially Switzerland in dairy form. It, too, takes its name from the medieval town of Gruyères - long considered one of the country’s great cheesemaking centres, where expertise has been honed and handed down for generations. Gruyère - Photo: Rich Martello Speaking of Gruyère, here’s a fun little anecdote: I jokingly call myself an honorary Gruyèroise , and for a mildly ridiculous reason. When my sister and I visited the region, we went for a stroll and somehow got mistaken for locals by a group of very enthusiastic Japanese tourists. They were absolutely convinced we were "authentic Swiss mountain women", even though we’re Hungarian and about as Alpine as a paprika plant. They insisted we pose in their photos. So somewhere in Japan, several families have immaculate Swiss holiday albums featuring cows, emerald hillsides, and… two girls from Budapest smiling like we’ve just stepped off the packaging of an artisanal Swiss chocolate bar. Iconic, honestly! A Brief (and Very Mysterious) History Vacherin Mont-d’Or has been crafted in the Vallée de Joux for over a century, though no one can quite agree who invented it. One local tale claims a French soldier marched in during the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and basically said, "Bonjour, here’s a recipe". This seems plausible since the French Jura next door makes a very similar cheese. But then-plot twist-evidence showed the Swiss were making it as early as 1812. So the mystery remains, and the cheese refuses to explain itself. France later shortened the name to "Mont d’Or", while Switzerland politely refused and kept the full, dignified "Vacherin Mont-d’Or". So basically, Vacherin refers to a group of cheeses from both France and Switzerland.The key difference is that the French version, the Vacherin du Haut-Doubs is made with unpasteurized raw milk , while the Swiss version Vacherin Mont d'Or AOP   is made with thermized milk ( heated to 57–68 °C /135–154 °F for at least 15 seconds , this isn’t the same as pasteurization, since it doesn’t eliminate all harmful bacteria ). Also, not to be confused with Vacherin Fribourgeois, the firmer, year-round Swiss cheese that often sneaks into fondue pots. Why it's seasonal? In spring and summer, the cows are living their alpine dream: grazing on wildflowers, wandering sunny pastures, and producing plenty of milk for their calves. When autumn arrives, the calves are weaned and the milk supply naturally slows. What remains is richer, creamier, and no longer quite right for Gruyère d’Alpage, but perfect for the smaller, more indulgent vacherins (named after vache , the French word for "cow"). Even though modern dairy techniques could extend the season, Swiss regulations insist that Vacherin Mont-d’Or be made the traditional way: only in the cold months, only when the milk naturally changes. It’s this dedication to old-school methods that has earned it its AOP status, and the seasonal magic that makes it so special. Production is strictly limited to August 15 through March 31, and Vacherin is only sold from September 10 to April - timed with Swiss precision. It’s the alphorn solo of seasonal cheeses: rare, unmistakable, and celebrated with wholehearted enthusiasm. Every year in Les Charbonnières, the proud birthplace of Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP, the village comes alive with a celebration honouring both the returning cows and its famously oozy winter cheese. Around 6,000 visitors gather for this warmly spirited alpine fête, complete with artisan stalls, hands-on workshops, and alphorn players sending bright, echoing notes across the valley like Switzerland’s most polite loudspeakers. And, of course, the cheesemakers offer free tastings of the season’s first Vacherin. Because nothing brings a crowd together faster than mountains, music, and a spoonful of molten cheese before noon. How it's made? Mignot Fromagerie Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP starts with heat-treated milk from cows that graze mostly on grass and hay. The milk is gently warmed, the curds are pressed, and then each cheese is wrapped in a spruce band, aka nature’s own corset. After a brine bath, the young cheeses rest on spruce boards for at least 17 days, being flipped, washed, and pampered along the way. Finally, each cheese is nestled into a deliberately slightly-too-small spruce box, so it develops those wiggly, wavy edges and picks up that signature woodsy flavour. The end result is a soft, often gloriously runny cheese with a delicate salty note, a hint of whey, and the unmistakable aroma of spruce. It’s available whole in its iconic box or pre-sliced for those who like their cheese ready to dig into. How to eat it? Vacherin Mont-d’Or is a wonderfully versatile cheese, equally charming when enjoyed chilled with rustic bread and wine or when transformed into something warmly indulgent. Its iconic preparation is the baked version, a wintertime favourite that delivers deep comfort with minimal preparation and almost no cleanup. Baked Vacherin Mont-d’Or Serves two very happy people Ingredients: 500 g/1 lb small potatoes Fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary, sage, whatever smells pleasantly foresty) 1 Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP 100 ml white wine Instructions: Keep the cheese in its little spruce-wood box and wrap the whole thing in aluminum foil. Use a fork to poke a few holes in the rind, then drizzle in the white wine. Add the herbs-tuck in little sprigs or scatter finely chopped ones on top. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C / 390°F for about 25 minutes , until the cheese is irresistibly oozy. Boil the potatoes while you wait. Serve it fondue-style: dip the potatoes straight into the molten cheese, or tear into some good crusty bread. Both are correct choices. Enjoy, ideally while pretending you’re snowed in somewhere in the Vaud Alps. Now the wines! Chasselas - Where Alpine purity meets effortless charm Vacherin Mont-d’Or is a cheese with personality, and it deserves a wine that can hold its own. Ask any local in Vaud what should accompany this molten Alpine marvel, and they won’t hesitate: Chasselas. To them, it’s not just a pairing, it’s practically a regional law. Can't blame them, they’re right. Chasselas, Switzerland’s most beloved white grape, is light, clean, and delightfully unfussy, making it the perfect companion for a cheese that arrives in a spruce box and immediately starts melting like it owns the room. Where Vacherin is rich, cozy, and woodsy, Chasselas is refreshing, clever, and balanced, supporting every decadent bite without ever demanding the spotlight. Known by many names - Gutedel  in Germany, Fendant  in Valais, and How am I supposed to fit chocolate, cheese, AND wine in my suitcase?! for unsuspecting tourists - Chasselas is delicate and nuanced. Expect whispers of apple, pear, citrus, gentle florals, and often a fine mineral streak shaped by Alpine soils. It’s a grape built for food: especially classic Swiss cheese dishes and local freshwater fish. Rooted in Swiss wine history since the 17th century, it thrives in cool climates and chalky soils, making it Switzerland’s most widespread white grape, particularly in Vaud, Valais, Geneva, and the Trois-Lacs region. Outside Switzerland, it’s also found in Germany, France, Chile, Brazil, New Zealand, and yes, even Canada. Swiss wine regions: Lavaux, Chablais  and Valais: In Canada , however, Swiss Chasselas can be surprisingly elusive. In Alberta, it feels almost mythological; even dedicated researchers of Swiss wines have trouble spotting it lately. Thankfully, Canada has its own Chasselas chapter in the Okanagan Valley. St Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery (Kelowna) produces the grape: bone-dry, crisp, and clean, with citrus and gentle grassy notes that make it wonderfully food-friendly. Founded in 1984 by Swiss-born Leo Gebert, the winery brought unmistakably Swiss winemaking sensibilities to the Okanagan. That said, St. Hubertus is now part of Iconic Wineries of British Columbia - a premium Okanagan-based collective led by Mission Hill Family Estate - and its future identity, whether as a standalone winery or primarily a vineyard asset, remains a bit of a question mark. www.quailsgate.com Meanwhile, at Quails’ Gate (West Kelowna) Chasselas plays a starring role in one of their iconic Heirloom White   blend, joined by Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. The wine is fresh and refined, with notes of lemon, pear, honeydew, and subtle florals, offering a smooth texture from aperitif to meal. According to the estate, the 2025 vintage will be released soon. Now, if you can't get any Chasselas, try: Aromatic whites : Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Viognier anything with a bit of perfume also get along famously with the cheese’s woodsy aroma. If you want something a touch more dramatic, an older dry Riesling or Semillon (the sort that’s been contemplating life for 15 to 20 years) brings smoky, layered notes that echo the cheese’s depth in a very civilized way. Wines from Jura: Vin Jaune, Savagnin, or a Côtes du Jura Chardonnay have the kind of poised acidity that cuts through Vacherin’s richness while pretending not to notice how indulgent it is. Champagne is always a reliable companion. Its crisp bubbles brighten the cheese, almost like someone sweeping open the curtains in a very opulent room. And if Champagne isn’t on hand, any good créman t or other sparkling wine will bring that same lively lift. For red wine lovers, a gentle Gamay or Pinot Noir offers bright fruit without elbowing the cheese out of the spotlight. Other beverages Beers: Belgian ales and wheat beers pair nicely with Vacherin’s earthy character, they feel like friendly neighbours dropping by with good manners and better intentions. Ciders: dry or lightly sweet ciders bring out the creamy, subtly woody notes, giving the whole experience a charming, orchard-in-late-autumn energy. Vacherin Mont-d’Or pairs beautifully with non-alcoholic drinks that refresh the palate (acidic, sparkling, or bitter) or complement the cheese’s cozy, woodsy character of the cheese’s creamy, earthy richness. – Sparkling apple or pear juice (a Champagne-like effect) – Sparkling teas (rosé or blanc styles) – Italian sodas or fruit spritzes – Pomegranate juice for a tart contrast – Herbal or black tea– Spiced apple cider – Kombucha (bright, tangy, and bubbly) – Non-alcoholic crisp whites Happy sipping and savouring!

For some reason, I always end up in Spain during the winter. Not a tragedy. I am firmly not a beach person, but still hilarious considering this is the land of Costa-del-You-Should-Really-Be-Wearing-A-Bikini. Meanwhile, I’m over here wrapped in three scarves, insisting that winter is the superior season for eating anyway. The Basque Country This December–January trip turned into a road trip through France and Spain, with a few days in the French Basque Country - le Pays Basque. It’s an odd, wonderful place where mountains tumble into the sea , houses look like they were designed by elves, and breakfast in Bayonne can absolutely involve blood sausage (more on that sacred breakfast later). This fiercely proud, delightfully stubborn region refuses to belong to just one country, stretching effortlessly across both Spain and France. Its people speak Euskara, a language so singular it seems designed to puzzle linguists and humble tourists alike - something I, as a Hungarian, immediately relate to. With their own traditions, their own pace of life, and a deep devotion to food, I find Basque culture truly fascinating. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe | The islet and its dramatic landscape 35 km northeast of Bilbao, were used as the setting for Dragonstone in The Game of Thrones series. On the Spanish side (also called Euskadi), cities like Bilbao, San Sebastián, and Vitoria-Gasteiz offer a mix of striking architecture, dramatic coastlines, and lively debates about which bar serves the best pintxos. Euskadi on both side of the border is a place where food is sacred, identity is non-negotiable, and a night out can easily end with wine, wandering, and a suspicious number of toothpicks in your pocket. In short: two countries, one soul, and absolutely no patience for bad food. It remains my favourite part of both, and food is approximately 93.7% of the reason. We arrived just after Christmas. San Sebastián (Donostia) at night felt like a perfectly styled winter postcard: light frost, the Bay of Biscay in moody grey, and leftover holiday lights glowing softly along the streets. By morning, sunshine revealed an elegant seaside city that refuses to hibernate. Bilbao, by contrast, had that cold, steely light that makes modern architecture feel faintly judgmental. The Guggenheim shimmered along the Nervión River - Frank Gehry’s design all sweeping curves and quiet confidence, as if it knew I’d been waiting my whole life to see it. Outside, sculptures invite wandering before you even step inside. I made several earnest attempts to photograph Louise Bourgeois’s giant spider, Maman, which tourists had cheerfully rebranded as an interactive climbing structure. People clung to its legs with impressive confidence. I watched from a polite distance, briefly wondering if I, too, could just… hop on. For research. But no. I didn’t. I couldn’t. I am, after all, an art historian. Instead, I stood there "waiting for the right moment", which in this case meant quietly judging everyone while taking almost no photos. I left with frozen fingers, unusable images, and the quiet satisfaction of having respected the artwork. Now, yes, modern art. I’ve already admitted I tend toward the old masters. But if you’re travelling with children, even very young ones, visit contemporary museums. Ours have always been far more engaged: bold scale, bright colours, occasional absurdity. It just works. There’s an immediacy that invites curiosity rather than reverence. Even I often find myself laughing alongside them, which feels like its own kind of masterpiece. For those who feel most at home with older masters, the Museum of Fine Arts of Bilbao offers a remarkable journey through centuries of art. Here, you can discover masterpieces by renowned artists such as Francisco de Goya, El Greco, José de Ribera, and Eduardo Chillida. Pintxos Once you step out of the museum, you realize the Basque devotion to art continues- just in edible form. And that form is: pintxos (PEEN-chos). Tiny, perfect, edible masterpieces. Winter here isn’t Canadian-cold, but it’s damp in a way that settles into your bones. Luckily, salvation is everywhere—warm, glowing bars tucked into every corner. We barely sat down for proper meals, preferring to hop from bar to bar, tasting bite after bite. When each bite is basically a tiny art installation, the idea of a "main course" suddenly feels laughably old-fashioned. (Bilbao, San Sebastián, and the rest of the Basque Country boast Michelin-starred restaurants, yes. We did not visit. We were far too committed to our toothpick-sized masterpieces.) And just to clarify: pintxos are not tapas. Close, but not the same. Pintxos vs. Tapas - a quick guide: Pintxos are smaller, usually served on bread or skewered with a toothpick, and are a proud specialty of Northern Spain’s Basque Country. They actually have more in common with Venetian cicchetti - individual bar bites meant to be enjoyed standing and hopping from place to place - than with traditional tapas. Tapas are broader in style: small plates of all kinds, typically meant for sharing, enjoyed throughout the rest of Spain. Post-Christmas streets were lively in that unforced way that feels less like a festival and more like everyday life. People wandered, laughed, drank, and gathered. Wine flowed, lights lingered, and winter became the perfect excuse to stay out just a little longer. The quality is remarkable—and refreshingly affordable. What might cost $20 elsewhere is often just a few euros here. A glass of wine? Also a few euros. Dining feels less transactional, more like a public service. Every bar felt like a gallery opening where the art is edible and no one judges you for drinking wine at eleven in the morning. Winter in the Basque Country may not come with beaches, but it offers something better: excellent wine, glowing bars, and enough gildas to make you reconsider owning a swimsuit. Speaking of gildas! Here’s the recipe for the tiny classic Basque pintxo: Gildas The classic Basque pintxo Salty, briny, and slightly spicy, gildas are the region’s iconic bite. Perfect with vermouth or a crisp white. This version is called a "matrimonio". Ingredients: green olives, pickled guindilla peppers, oil-packed anchovies, marinated anchovies, olive oil. How: Skewer an olive, oil-packed anchovy, pepper, marinated anchovy, another pepper, and finish with an olive. Drizzle with excellent olive oil and serve. Eat immediately. Preferably standing. Txakoli The local wine star is Txakoli (cha-ko-LEE), a zippy coastal white that practically sparkles. It’s bright, crisp, and lively, with notes of lime, green apple, peach, floral blossoms, and a hint of saline minerality. Light-bodied, high in acid, and low in alcohol. Other than (most) pintxos, Txakoli pairs beautifully with: Seafood: With its bright acidity, crisp dryness, and subtle citrus and mineral notes, Txakoli is the ideal white wine for everything from raw oysters to prawns and crab. Soft Cheeses: Txakoli’s zesty acidity and fresh green flavours create a perfect contrast for mild, buttery cheeses like brie, goat cheese, camembert, or ricotta. The wine lifts the flavours of the cheese, making each bite even more delicious. Astobiza Txakoli, from the estate in Okendo, Álava, is a shining example: vibrant, balanced, and versatile, pairing beautifully with anything from oysters to lightly spiced dishes. Sustainability and tradition guide every step, and it’s even available in Alberta, making it easy to enjoy a little Basque magic at home. Photo credit: Astobiza Estate Founded by the Abando-Moyua family, this estate is nestled in Okendo, Álava, just thirty minutes from Bilbao, within the Txakoli de Álava designation of origin. The vineyard spans ten hectares, thoughtfully divided into seven micro-plots at 250 meters above sea level. Surrounded by mountains, the site enjoys natural protection from valley fog and winter frost, creating ideal growing conditions. Working exclusively with indigenous varieties, the team approaches both viticulture and winemaking with precision and care. Their philosophy is rooted in sustainability, respect for tradition, and minimal intervention. Harvest is timed to capture peak aromatic expression, with grapes handpicked into small boxes and meticulously sorted, ensuring purity, quality, and a true reflection of the land. All in all, the Basque Country captured my heart. Mountains, coastlines, pintxos, they’ve all lodged themselves firmly in my imagination. Next time, I’ll aim for spring or fall, when the countryside is calling with vineyards and sun-dappled roads to explore. There’s so much more to see, taste, and experience and I can’t wait to return.

Château-Grillet (Shah-toh Gree-yay) is like the exclusive VIP section of the wine world, a mere 3.8-hectare estate with its own AOC, a cru within the prestigious Condrieu appellation in France’s Northern Rhône, just 40 km south of Lyon. This remarkable gem is a "monopole", a fancy way of saying it’s a single-producer appellation. It’s renowned for producing exquisite, single-varietal Viognier wines that are highly age-worthy and, simply put, among the most sublime whites in the world. Not to dwell on ownership, it’s just a side note, but 2027 will mark 200 years since the Neyret-Gachet family first acquired Château-Grillet, stewarding the estate for generations and securing its prestigious appellation. Since 2011, it has been owned by Groupe Artémis, the holding company behind major fashion and art auction houses, as well as notable wine estates such as Château Latour, led by François Pinault - yes, the same monsieur married to Salma Hayek. So naturally, when we lived just an hour away, we were thrilled at the chance to visit the estate. My husband raved about paradise on earth. I was along for the ride, clueless but enthusiastic. While specialized wine tours or professional visits can sometimes be arranged at the château, most sensible people plan the trip with tastings at other Northern Rhône producers in nearby villages, done directly or through partner wine cellars. Just a few tasting spots: Vignoble Deleu: Family-run vineyard in the centre of Condrieu, offering Rhône wine tastings. Domaine Niero: Tasting of Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie wines in the cellar. Clos de la Bonnette: Intimate tasting experience in Condrieu. Domaine de Corps de Loup: Known for Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie wines. Le Caveau du Château (Ampuis): Nearby, with a large selection from prestigious houses like Guigal or Vidal-Fleury. Other notable wineries nearby: Ferraton Père & Fils and Pierre Gaillard. We, naturally, did not do the sensible thing. Instead, we drove straight up to Château-Grillet. The usual gates were nowhere to be seen. And, even more surprisingly, the place was completely deserted. Not a soul. We wandered around the grounds for a couple of minutes, trying to look as though this was all part of the plan. Fortunately, the gendarmerie were probably savouring a long French lunch, leaving us free to slink away unpunished and mildly embarrassed. On the bright side, the view from the granite terraces over the Rhône was absolutely majestic - arguably the most exclusive part of the experience we were actually allowed to enjoy. And honestly, I can’t blame them. Here’s why: Vin Blanc de Château-Grillet | https://chateau-grillet.com The estate produces fewer than 10,000 bottles a year of its flagship wine, the Vin Blanc de Château-Grillet. (They do also make a Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc, the Condrieu "La Carthery", and even a couple of brandies.) And then comes the patience test. Château-Grillet wines are released only after 8 to 10 years of aging , sometimes longer. So those "recent" vintages everyone mentions - 2014 to 2016 - are only just appearing around 2024 to 2026 (if my wine math hasn’t completely betrayed me). By the time you finally see a bottle, it has already lived a full, elegant life - possibly more accomplished than most of us. It’s one of the longest-lived Viogniers out there… and apparently one of the hardest to actually encounter, unless you’re dining somewhere with more Michelin stars than you can comfortably count. Unsurprisingly, the price is stratospheric. Recent bottles sell for €300–€500, and older vintages are practically mythical treasures. A quick web search even revealed a tiny selection tucked away in a couple of SAQ stores in Quebec - a reminder that this liquid legend occasionally crosses the ocean and even makes it onto retail shelves! My only consolation? Imagining that somewhere, at least, a bottle is being poured for the incomparable Salma Hayek - who, I assume, did make a reservation. One more thing: Château-Grillet’s signature slim brown bottles are instantly recognizable and unlike anything else used by French wineries. And the labels? (Graphic designer here, speaking up.) Endearingly simple. Almost suspiciously unchanged, like someone decided decades ago: "This is perfect. Why confuse people with updates?" When your wine is basically liquid legend, a redesign is optional. Viognier Luckily, other Viognier bottles - from France or beyond - are within reach. Whether you’re in Calgary or anywhere else, just ask for a bottle of vee-own-YAY and enjoy! Viognier grape via www.plantgrape.fr/ Viognier is a highly aromatic, full-bodied white known for its intense floral and fruit notes. Aromas of apricot, ripe peach, honeysuckle, and white flowers and flavours of mango, guava, peach, pear, citrus (lemon/lime), and honey. Originally from the Rhône Valley - where this whole adventure brought us - it often has a rich, almost creamy texture with relatively low acidity, giving it that lush, opulent feel on the palate. Clearly, I have a soft spot for this style of wine… and I may have already gone on about it just a little too much here: Operation: Impress the Wine Snob -White Wines But! Viognier is a tricky grape. Pick it too early, and the wine is flat and boring. Wait too long, and it turns into a heavy, boozy, oily mess. No pressure. What makes it even more fascinating is its survival story. By the 1960s, Viognier was almost extinct, clinging to life in this tiny corner of France, Condrieu. Today, it’s making a full-blown comeback, showing up in California, Australia, South Africa, you name it. From has-been to global star, it’s had quite the glow-up. And here’s a fun twist: Viognier sometimes sneaks into red wines too - specifically in the neighbouring Côte-Rôtie AOC, where it’s blended with Syrah to boost aroma and help stabilize colour. It’s a little personality contradiction as on its own, Viognier is typically dry, yet it smells like dessert. Food Pairing Serve lightly chilled (10–12°C) to preserve Viognier’s delicate aromas. Food pairing suggestions for Viognier often start with the classics: spicy food. Such as Thai dishes, Moroccan tagines, curries, anything with a bit of heat. That advice is absolutely valid. Viognier’s lush texture and aromatic intensity can handle spice like a pro. But let’s not forget its roots. Long before global cuisine entered the chat, this Rhône-born beauty was happily paired with French dishes, following that simple, time-tested rule: what grows together, goes together. And it still works beautifully. Think roast chicken or turkey breast, lobster, shrimp, crab, pork chops with apricot sauce, or even poached salmon. On the vegetable side, it shines with fennel, leeks, cauliflower, pumpkin, olives, and sweet peppers. Add in herbs and spices like tarragon, ginger, nutmeg, or herbes de Provence, and you’re in very good company. And then there’s cheese! Viognier pairs wonderfully with creamy, soft, or goat cheeses. It balances the richness of triple-creams like Brillat-Savarin or Délice de Bourgogne and complements fresh or lightly aged goat cheeses as well. Young Comté or Gruyère work nicely with its nutty hints, and for the adventurous, a mild blue like Fourme d’Ambert offers a delightful sweet-salty contrast. Take a look at my Calgary cheese shops suggestions here. Or! you could grab some local cheese, a baguette, pop open a bottle of Viognier, and have yourself a picnic somewhere along the Rhône ... or the Elbow. Simple, unpretentious, magical. That’s exactly what we did after the Château-Grillet fiasco. Santé! Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. A bold fruit-driven Grande Reserva from Portugal Portugal is a true gem in the wine world, boasting 14 diverse wine regions, each bursting with unique character. The Douro Valley is the dramatic lead, serving up rich Port wines that can captivate anyone's taste buds. Vinho Verde is the bubbly sidekick, always fresh and ready to keep the party going. Then we have Dão, the elegant one who knows just the right pairings for dinner. And let’s not forget Madeira, the fortified wine that’s basically the "life of the party" at every gathering. To top it all off, the dynamic Alentejo region amplifies the excitement, showcasing the wonders of Portugal’s captivating wine landscape. Alentejo The Alentejo is a historic wine region in southern Portugal, known for its enjoyable red blends and fragrant whites. With a winemaking history of over 2,000 years, some producers still use ancient Roman techniques and traditional clay amphorae called talhas. Once famous for cork production, Alentejo has gained recognition as a leading producer of exceptional wines since the 1980s, making it a fantastic destination for wine lovers. Gran Reserva Comparing Portuguese and Spanish "Gran Reserva": Where Ageism is a positive thing! Let's discuss "Gran Reserva", which I like to think of as the wine equivalent of a retirement home. It's where everyone lounges around, waiting to age gracefully. However, the rules can be quite different between our Spanish and Portuguese friends! In Spain, specifically in Rioja, a "Gran Reserva" wine must adhere to strict regulations. It must be aged for a total of 60 months - that’s five years - with at least 24 months spent in oak barrels. On the other hand, in Portugal, "Grande Reserva" signifies exceptional quality and often higher alcohol levels, allowing for more flexibility in aging. These differences in wine regulations highlight the rich traditions of both countries. Reynolds Grande Reserva 2012 Producer Website This Reynolds Grande Reserva an exquisite Portuguese red wine from the sun-drenched Alentejo region, crafted by the dedicated Reynolds Wine Growers, a family-run winery with roots dating back to 1820. Figueira de Cima is an estate of 200 hectares that enjoys the site climate of the Serra de São Mamede. We were excited to uncork the 2012 vintage! Timing is everything when it comes to wine. At 13 years old, the wine is entering or is already in its prime drinking window. It’s like a rebellious teenager, full of life and attitude. The wine captivated our palate right from the first sip, showcasing a remarkable balance between its rich, bold flavours and a refreshing acidity. Its intensity lingers, inviting you to explore the complex layers of fruit and subtle hints of spice. Dark fruits like plum and blackberry dance on your palate. Both dry and expressive, showcasing hints of black pepper and a touch of spice and chocolate. Sure, we could have let it age a little longer (even for another decade or more to enjoy earthy notes, tertiary flavours), but we decided to dive into its brilliance as we want a more fruit-forward experience. Decant for at least an hour to allow the wine to fully open up and express. Blend of 40% Alicante Bouschet, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah Aromas: Dark fruits such as blackberry and plum, with hints of black pepper, vanilla, and green coffee beans. Palate: Soft, rounded, and fresh, with a nice, persistent finish. It is described as having a deep pomegranate colour and a dry, medium-bodied profile with smooth tannins. Texture: The wine has a good structure with high, soft tannins and medium to high acidity. It is described as elegant and well-balanced. Finish: The wine offers a long, lingering finish with notes of black pepper, chocolate, and oak. Aging: Grapes are fermented separately in French oak vats for a long period. After blending, the wine is bottled and aged at the estate for several years before release. Food pairing: Appetizers with strong, intense flavours Red meat dishes, especially baked or stewed Game meat Cod dishes Buttery cheeses, such as Serra da Estrela (traditional Portuguese sheep's milk cheese) or semi-soft cheeses like Camembert, Brie or Reblochon from France Dark chocolate with 75% or more cocoa content (the real deal, anything less simply won't do!) Pairing choice - Lion's Mane Mushrooms and Pork Belly I am definitely a mushroom enthusiast. I sneak them into everything: my omelette, my bone broth, and yes, even my afternoon mushroom coffee! I even worked some magic on my husband, who once claimed he didn’t like mushrooms. Growing up, my grandparents lived in the mountains of Northern Hungary, and as fall rolled around, we would gear up for our legendary mushroom hunts in the forest. It felt like we were on a treasure hunt, but instead of gold, we were collecting the most bizarre and quirky wild mushrooms imaginable. We always had our findings carefully examined by the village mushroom expert, who kept us safe from any poisonous surprises. As a kid, I was more intrigued by the hunt for mushrooms than by the actual mushrooms themselves, especially since some can taste like they’ve been dipped in pure bitterness. These days, I’m still on the mushroom hunt, but my adventures usually take place in supermarkets. I find Asian grocers to be great, and I occasionally visit the farmers' market, hoping to discover something unique. I’ve recently stumbled upon the fascinating world of Lion's Mane mushrooms! True to their name, these extraordinary fungi boast long, shaggy, white spines that resemble the majestic mane of a lion. They are known by several other delightful names, such as bearded tooth fungus, hedgehog fungus, and pom-pom mushroom, each reflecting their unique appearance. Typically found from late summer through fall, their seasonal appearance can vary depending on your geographic location. I’m incredibly excited to incorporate these mushrooms into a variety of dishes! Not only do they offer a rich, earthy flavour that enhances any meal, but they are also packed with numerous health benefits. Miso-glazed pork belly and lion's mane mushrooms Course: Main Servings: 4 Preparation: 20 minutes | Marinate: 2 hours | Cooking: 2.5 hours The Reynolds Grande Reserva 2012 is an exceptional wine that brings remarkable depth and delightful fruit character, making it a perfect match for miso-glazed pork belly, tender lion's mane mushrooms, and flavourful braised red cabbage. The umami-rich, savoury elements of the dish harmonize beautifully with the wine’s earthy undertones and vibrant fruit notes. Its smooth texture and refreshing acidity elegantly cut through the richness of the pork, while the wine's intricate profile holds its own against the bold flavours of the meal, achieving a wonderful balance.When enjoyed together, the braised red cabbage serves as a unifying element, as the wine’s earthy and fruity nuances beautifully enhance the savoury-sweet character of the cabbage. Ingredients: For the Miso-Glazed Pork Belly: 450g / 1 lb pork belly* 1/4 cup white miso paste 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp sake (or rice wine) 2 tbsp mirin (or honey) 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp sesame oil *Your choice: keeping the skin intact for added texture or removing it for a tender, melt-in-your-mouth experience. For the Lion's Mane Mushrooms: 225g / 8 oz lion's mane mushrooms, cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and pepper to taste For the Braised Red Cabbage: 1 small head of red cabbage, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp sugar 1/2 cup apple juice or water Salt and pepper to taste 1 tbsp olive oil Instructions Prepare the Pork Belly: In a bowl, mix the miso paste, soy sauce, sake, mirin, brown sugar, and sesame oil until well combined. Coat the pork belly thoroughly in the miso mixture. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Cook the Pork Belly: Preheat the oven to 150°C / 300°F. Place the marinated pork belly in a baking dish and cover with a lid or foil. Bake for about 2 hours, until tender. - Once done, increase the oven temperature to 230°C / 450°F and remove the lid/foil. Roast for an additional 15-20 minutes, until the top is caramelized and crispy. Remove from the oven and let it rest. Prepare the Braised Red Cabbage: In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and sauté until soft. Add the red cabbage, apple cider vinegar, sugar, apple juice (or water), salt, and pepper. Stir to combine. Cover and simmer for 20-25 minutes until the cabbage is tender, stirring occasionally. Sauté the Lion's Mane Mushrooms: In a skillet, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add minced garlic and sauté for about 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the lion's mane mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5-7 minutes until golden brown and tender. Remove from heat. Assemble the Dish: Serve the pork belly with sautéed lion's mane mushrooms and a side of braised red cabbage. Garnish with fresh parsley or chives if desired. Happy sipping and savouring!

White Wine | Sicily, Italy 👩‍🍳— Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Pantelleria, this tiny rock in the Mediterranean, a little volcanic speck drifting between Sicily and Africa, isn’t like any wine region you’ve ever met. If I were a perfumer, I’d be frantically jotting notes, trying to capture whatever strange, beautiful thing is going on there: something floral, a bit spicy, a bit salty, a bit ancient. It’s hard to pin down, and honestly, it doesn’t want to be. The wines don’t just taste of the island, they pulse with it. Pantelleria, technically part of Sicily, is closer to Tunisia than to mainland Italy, shaped by wind, scorched by sun, and caressed by sea air. The locals grow Zibibbo by training the vines low to the ground, sheltered in hand-dug hollows like tiny grape craters to protect them from the island’s famously dramatic winds, a centuries-old practice so profound, it was recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014. This grape was born dramatic and with ambitions. Despite wind, heat, volcanic soil, and centuries of change, Zibibbo persists. It adapts. It glows up. It becomes both sweet and dry, ancient and modern, nerdy and glamorous. It’s proof that great things (mostly grapes though) can thrive in tough conditions. Pantelleria’s wines embody contradiction. They are ancient and modern, sweet and savoury, floral and mineral. They carry history, hardship, sunlight …and - totally irrelevant, but important to me - they’re my favourite whites. So yes, if I were a perfumer, I’d be scribbling furiously in the margins of my notebook, chasing Pantelleria’s secrets before they evaporate into Mediterranean mist. Until then, I’ll keep a glass nearby and inhale slowly. Because sometimes wine isn’t just wine. Sometimes, it’s poetry you can drink. Sicilian perfume, coastal cooking, and one very charming grape Zibibbo, a sun-loving member of the Muscat family that first appeared in ancient Egypt’s city of Alexandria - hence its other name, Muscat of Alexandria. From there, it drifted across the Mediterranean like a fragrant traveler, settling everywhere from Spain to the Aegean islands of Greece, and even farther out in South Africa, Australia, and Chile (hola, pisco!). But it truly found its spiritual home in Sicily and its islands, where it soaks up sunlight with confidence. Zibibbo has an effortless Sicilian swagger: vibrant, expressive, and gloriously extra. Take a sip, and suddenly you’re certain a tiny sun god is winking at you from inside the bottle. Scientifically speaking (yes, we’re going there-adjust your nerd glasses), this grape is loaded with terpenes: aromatic compounds responsible for all those flowers, fruit, and the general scent of joy. But you absolutely don’t need a chemistry degree to appreciate any of that. Just sip, smile, and - if you’re anything like me - find yourself inspired to write an entire blog post about it. If you do want to dive a little deeper into the world of aromatic wines, I’ve put together more fragrant geekery right here! Take a sip of a DRY Zibibbo and it tastes like someone juiced the sunrise. You’re hit with orange blossom, a salty breeze, and maybe the ghost of a lemon orchard drifting by for dramatic effect. These wines are floral, citrusy, sometimes a little saline, and always ready to convince you that you should move to Sicily and become a mysterious local with excellent sandals. Crisp, fragrant, salty like sea air and seductive gossip, each sip whispers: Quit your job. Buy a boat. Become the local legend who sells sunset watercolours to German tourists. But, Zibibbo can also be SWEET, and produces luscious Passito di Pantelleria, a dessert wine so rich and golden, a sun-dried grapes concentrate into brilliant notes of honey, candied citrus, honeyed citrus, candied apricot, and caramelized daydreams, and Mediterranean herbs, perfect for pairing with pastries. It tastes like someone melted a sunset and bottled it. Food pairing Dry Zibibbo (aromatic, floral, citrusy, slightly salty) Best with: Seafood: grilled prawns, calamari, branzino, sardines Citrusy dishes: lemon chicken, preserved-lemon couscous, citrus salads Herb-forward plates: mint, basil, fennel, parsley, anything that smells like an herb garden Soft cheeses: fresh goat cheese, ricotta with honey + cracked pepper, fior di latte Light Sicilian classics: caponata, pasta con le sarde, swordfish with capers, arancine with citrus or herb fillings Salads & veggie dishes: grilled zucchini, fennel salad, green beans with almonds Salty things: olives, anchovies, bottarga. (Zibibbo LOVES salt.) Why it works: The wine’s florals + citrus + salinity make it behave like a very charming squeeze of lemon you can drink. Sweet / Passito di Pantelleria (honeyed, apricot, caramelized fruit) This one is dessert royalty. Best with: Stone-fruit desserts: apricot tart, peach cobbler, nectarine galette Chocolate with orange: dark chocolate + citrus is its soulmate Blue cheeses: Gorgonzola dolce is the power couple pairing Vanilla gelato: boring until this wine shows up Honey-based desserts: baklava, ricotta & honey, Sicilian cannoli Nutty things: almond cake, pistachio biscotti, hazelnut tart Why it works: It’s like pairing sunshine with dessert. Everything becomes more golden, more fragrant. The Winemaker: Donnafugata Donnafugata crafts some of Sicily’s most celebrated wines, with Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria standing as one of Italy’s most awarded sweet wines. The estate’s portfolio also includes icons such as Mille e una Notte and Fragore, each earning top international acclaim and strengthening the winery’s reputation for excellence. For five generations the Rallo family has devoted itself to producing artisanal, sustainable, small-lot wines that reflect Sicily’s most distinctive terroirs. Today, siblings Antonio and José continue the family’s commitment, bringing elegant, expressive Italian wines to enthusiasts around the world. The name Donnafugata originates from Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) and the story of Queen Maria Carolina, who once sought refuge in the very area where the vineyards now stand—a tale echoed in the winery’s iconic windswept female logo. This spirit also lives in Gabriella Rallo, one of Sicily’s first women winemakers, whose pioneering vision inspired artist Stefano Vitale. For more than 30 years, his imaginative, feminine, and vividly Sicilian labels have captured the soul of each wine and shaped Donnafugata’s unmistakable identity. Donnafugata Winery Lighea by Donnafugata is true to its roots, an aromatic Zibibbo from Pantelleria, crafted through heroic viticulture on this volcanic island. The vines are grown low in wind-sheltered hollows, a centuries-old practice recognized by UNESCO. The result is a deeply Mediterranean white wine with notes of orange blossom, citrus, and minerality. Antonio and José Rallo emphasize that Lighea reflects both the extreme nature of Pantelleria and the winery’s long-standing sustainability vision. The 2023 label has also been refreshed, now featuring a sunrise-lit interpretation of its iconic mermaid by artist Stefano Vitale. The Recipe On Pantelleria, flavours aren’t simply ingredients, they’re characters. They carry stories of wind-carved cliffs, volcanic soil, and sun that refuses to be subtle. And when three of the island’s native treasures meet in a single dish, well… culinary magic happens. Why Sole? Sole is a delicate, quietly elegant fish, refined without ever demanding attention. Its tender flakes carry a subtle sweetness and clean, understated flavour, making it an ideal canvas for the sun-drenched intensity of Pantelleria’s ingredients. Its gentle neutrality lets the wine, the capers, and the island’s bright, saline notes shine. Sole also swims in the waters around Pantelleria, in the Strait of Sicily, and, pragmatically, it’s a far more accessible choice in Canada than swordfish. (Try the dover sole from B.C. @North Sea Fish & Farms, Calgary) Why Capers? Capers from Pantelleria are legendary. These small green gems absorb the salty wind and volcanic soil of the island, creating a flavour that is salty, citrusy, slightly floral, and surprisingly strong for their size. When you add them to fish, they cut through the richness like a clever comment at a dinner party. And in my family, capers aren’t a garnish, they’re a lifestyle. We eat them the way other people eat candy. Why Zibibbo? See all the above! Its citrus blossom perfume and Mediterranean herbal notes brighten and lift the entire dish. Pair it in the glass, splash it in the pan, or ideally, both. The Flavour Trinity Together, Zibibbo, sole, and capers form a perfect triangle of delicacy salinity aromatic lift. The wine lifts the fish, the capers brighten the edges, and suddenly your palate is on holiday somewhere warm and sunlit, unhurried, and blessed with charmingly unreliable cell service. Sole Piccata alla Pantelleria Serves 4 | Prep time: 15 min | Cooking time: 20 minutes An Italian-style sole with capers and lemon is essentially a sunny, Sicilian-spirited riff on sole piccata: a lightly floured, pan-seared fillet swirled in lemon-butter and capers. It takes all of 20 minutes and somehow still tastes like it had an entire afternoon to prepare. It also calls to mind its French cousin, the sole meunière (immortalised by Julia Child for North American audiences), one of my favourite bistro classics. Unlike the caper-bright Italian approach, the French version is all about buttery simplicity - no capers in sight - but the family resemblance is unmistakable. Ideally, of course, it’s served whole and then magically transformed by an expert waiter who debones it tableside with the grace of a seasoned magician. Ingredients: The Fish 4 sole fillets (about 115 g / 4 oz each) 60 g / 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 6 g / 1 teaspoon salt 1 g / 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 30 ml / 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil The Sauce 90 g / 6 tbsp unsalted butter, divided 2 medium garlic cloves, minced 120 ml / 1/2 cup dry white wine or chicken stock 30 g / 4 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed Juice of 1/2 lemons 4 tbsp fresh Italian parsley, chopped Instructions: Prep the fish: Pat the sole fillets dry. In a shallow dish, mix the flour with the salt and pepper. Lightly dredge each fillet in the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess. Sear the sol: Heat the olive oil and 30 g / 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When the butter is just starting to foam, add the fillets in a single layer (cook in batches if needed). Cook for 2–3 minutes per side, until lightly golden and just cooked through.Transfer to a plate and tent loosely with foil. Make the sauce: In the same skillet, reduce the heat slightly and add the minced garlic. Sauté for 30 seconds until fragrant but not browned. Pour in the wine (or stock), scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Let it simmer for 1–2 minutes, until slightly reduced. Stir in the capers, lemon juice, and the remaining about 60 g/ 4 tablespoons of butter. Swirl the pan or stir gently until the butter melts and the sauce becomes glossy and smooth. Finish + serve: Return the sole to the skillet briefly to warm through, spooning sauce over the top. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Plate with flair: Serve immediately with extra lemon wedges. What to Serve With It? Couscous! Yes, absolutely. The best couscous I’ve had outside a North African restaurant (and aside from the magic in my friend D.’s kitchen) was in Sicily. The tiny semolina grains are steamed over fragrant broth - simple, coastal, unforgettable. Couscous is a true Sicilian star, especially in Trapani, where cùscusu reigns. Brought centuries ago by North African Berbers, it settled into the island’s culinary soul and became something uniquely Sicilian. Instead of the hearty, meat-forward versions of the Maghreb, the Trapanese version luxuriates in a rich fish broth scented with saffron, cinnamon, almonds, and bay leaves. It’s the perfect partner for this dish: light, aromatic, and ready to catch every last drop of that lemony, caper-studded sauce. Plus, obviously: more Zibibbo and your favourite fish-loving audience! Quick 5-Minute Couscous OK, look… maybe don’t show this to your North African friends. Not because it’s bad, but because they’ll take one look at this 5-minute, bowl-and-kettle shortcut and immediately start drafting a formal letter of concern. They spend hours steaming couscous the proper, majestic way - layer by layer, cloud by cloud - in those beautiful couscoussières we absolutely do not have in our non–Mediterranean kitchens. Meanwhile we’re over here going, "Hmm. Kettle? Yes. Plastic wrap? Also yes. Good enough." This isn’t the ceremonial, deeply layered, auntie-approved couscous tradition. It’s the weeknight, no-time, please-don’t-judge-me version. But hey, it’s still fluffy, delicious, and perfect with your lemony sole. And sometimes that’s exactly what dinner needs to be. Ingredients 1 cup instant couscous 1 cup boiling water or vegetable/chicken broth 1 tbsp olive oil or butter Salt and pepper, to taste Instructions Bring the water or broth to a boil. (Broth adds extra flavor.) Place the dry couscous in a heatproof bowl. Pour the boiling liquid over the couscous, give it one quick stir, and cover the bowl tightly with a lid or plastic wrap. Let it sit undisturbed for 5–10 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed. Fluff with a fork to separate the grains. Stir in the olive oil or butter, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Variations & Flavour Add-Ins Fresh herbs & brightness: Mix in chopped parsley, mint, or cilantro. Add lemon zest or a squeeze of lemon juice for freshness. Nuts & fruit: Try toasted slivered almonds, pine nuts, or golden raisins à la marocaine Mangia e bevi bene!

👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. I did promise that foie gras was strictly a decadent New Year’s Eve affair, and that January would return us to a more austere table. I am nothing if not a woman of my word. Like many of us, I also religiously eat lentils on January 1st, in the hopeful belief that they usher in money and prosperity for the year ahead. So far, the results have been… theoretical. But traditions, like good wine and bad habits, deserve loyalty, so we persist. When I make lentils, I make enough to last at least a couple of days, because anything less feels like a missed opportunity. I slow-simmer the little bastards until they’re deeply savoury, properly seasoned, and endlessly adaptable, the kind of base that quietly improves everything it touches. Over the next few days, they shape-shift: a side one night, a base the next, maybe breakfast if I’m feeling virtuous. I reinvent them into sides for two (sometimes three) different meals so no one feels like they’re eating leftovers, though they absolutely are. The trick is confidence. Lentils, when treated correctly, don’t mind being reused. In fact, they seem to prefer it. As for lentil shopping, I have my usual suspects: Green Lentils or lentilles de Puy from France, bien sûr, mineral, elegant, and well-behaved, and glossy black beluga lentils, which I buy proudly Canadian-grown and deeply reliable. And speaking of Canada: it’s not just maple syrup and wheat fields. Canada is the world’s largest lentil producer, supplying a significant portion of the global market. Prairie-grown lentils, especially from Saskatchewan, are shipped everywhere, quietly fuelling stews, soups, and prosperity rituals across the planet. So if the January austerity must happen, at least it happens with global agricultural dominance on our side! How to Stretch Your Lentils Without Feeling Like a Monk As mentioned above, I’m a firm believer in cooking a heroic batch of lentils and riding that wave for days. I slow-simmer them properly, then deploy them strategically as side dishes with different mains, provoking repeated "I swear this is a new meal" situations. And when it comes to what lentils actually want to be eaten with, I have strong feelings. There are two correct answers: pork and salmon Pork is the obvious bad influence. Bacon, sausage, pork shoulder, anything fatty, and salty. Lentils absorb pork drippings like they’re trying to secure a better future. This is peasant food in the best possible way: cozy, grounding, and suspiciously good for something so cheap. Salmon is the respectable option. Still rich, still indulgent, but dressed in a Canadian tuxedo and impeccably behaved. Pan-seared salmon on warm lentils whispers effortless chic. It’s also the version you serve when you want credit for being healthy without giving up pleasure. Cook once. Eat for days. Change the protein. And for anyone eating vegan or vegetarian, this "side" quietly becomes the whole meal. Deeply nourishing, full of umami, grounded, sober, and satisfying in that calm, I’m not hungry an hour later way. Proof that a dish doesn’t need theatrics, or meat, to feel complete. Also a great breakfast of champions: warm lentils on toast, sautéed greens, a fried or poached egg. Try finishing with parsley and chives, dill with lemon zest, or a touch of tarragon. Naturally, Wine Enters the Picture ... because lentils may be humble, but they are not ascetic. The formula is simple: One heroic pot of lentils. Two proteins. Two wine directions. The lentils stay the same. The plate changes. The glass adapts. And somehow, miraculously, it is a new meal. International Selection With pork you want something light on its feet. A juicy, low-tannin red works beautifully: Beaujolais - the chillable Gamay, all crunch and charm Loire Cabernet Franc - herbal, peppery, and politely restrained Pinot Noir - silky, red-fruited, and effortlessly well-mannered Rosé - dry and nervy, earning its seat at the table (think Côtes de Provence or Tavel, serious pink with a backbone) The salt and fat from the pork soften the wine; the wine, in return, keeps the lentils from tipping into stew-for-the-third-night territory. With salmon on the other hand, you want a confident white. Not timid. White Burgundy - structured, mineral, and quietly authoritative Loire Chenin - taut, saline, restrained Austrian Grüner Veltliner - peppery, energetic, and impeccably dry Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - electric, citrusy, loud Dry Alsace or German Riesling - razor-sharp, aromatic, and thrillingly precise You want acidity to cut the richness, enough body to stand up to the fish, and just enough structure to keep the lentils honest. This is not the moment for a whispery patio wine. Canadian Selection, Eh? 🍁 Cook once. Eat for days. Drink Canadian. Since lentils are basically Canada’s unofficial national legume, and pork and salmon are right up there too - it feels only right to pair the whole situation with great Canadian wine. Cue mild patriotism. Possibly a calm, unshakeable certainty that we understand hockey better than everyone else. With pork I stay firmly in light Canadian red or dry rosé territory. Nothing heavy, nothing loud, this is dinner, not a personality contest. Think Niagara Peninsula or Prince Edward County in Ontario, or head west to the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys in British Columbia. Canadian rosés, look for Pinot Noir or Gamay-based options from Niagara, ON or Okanagan, BC, with popular examples including Henry of Pelham, Tawse, Leaning Post, Quails' Gate, 50th Parallel, Unsworth, Clos du Soleil, and Megalomaniac, often showing notes of red berries, crisp acidity, and minerality, similar to French styles but with unique Canadian terroir. Gamay from Niagara or Similkameen - Juicy, bright, impeccably behaved. Pinot Noir from Prince Edward County or the Okanagan - Polite, elegant, and knows exactly when to stop talking. Cabernet Franc from the same regions - fresh, herbal, quietly confident No aggressive oak. No brooding theatrics. Just wines that won’t bully the lentils or steal attention from the pork. In other words: very Canadian behaviour. Our choice: Stratus Cabernet Franc2022 | Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON We received a bottle of 2020 Stratus Cabernet Franc 'Decant' as a gift (a very generous one), and since I cooked for the friends who brought it, opening it felt non-negotiable. If you’re hosting equally generous guests, this is the bottle you open. If not, there’s always excellent Cabernet Franc bottles - proof that you can still enjoy life and your budget. This Stratus "Decant" wine - and the bottle itself - is truly something special. It’s not just a wine you drink; it’s an object you admire. A rare moment where contemporary design and serious winemaking meet with complete confidence. Presented in a sculptural oval gift box, the bottle is a striking collaboration with Karim Rashid, one of Canada’s most celebrated industrial designers and a true global design icon. Known for his fluid forms, sensual geometry, and human-centred philosophy, Rashid has spent decades shaping everything from furniture and interiors to hotels, lighting, and everyday objects. Always with the belief that design should be emotional, accessible, and alive. His unmistakable aesthetic translates beautifully here. The bottle’s deconstructed, asymmetric form is inspired by the layered glacial soils of the Stratus vineyard. It’s not design for design’s sake: the shape functions as a built-in decanter, naturally trapping the lees as the wine is poured. It’s clever, purposeful, and quietly theatrical, the kind of object an art lover wants to turn in their hands before opening. Inside is an unfiltered, lees-aged Cabernet Franc with real elegance and authority. Expect notes of dried herbs, licorice, laurel, and ripe blackberry, framed by firm tannins and focused acidity. Fermented in French oak and aged for nearly two years, the wine fully reflects its exceptional vintage. 2020 was a standout year in Ontario, a warm winter, dry spring, steady summer heat, and a long, sun-filled autumn created ideal conditions for slow, complete ripening. Yields were low across the region, but quality was exceptional. The result is a Niagara Cabernet Franc with depth, balance, and character, and a bottle you’ll want to keep on display long after the last glass is poured. More on the producer website. With salmon It’s all about a confident white. Composed, assured, and fully in control, this is not the moment for anything shouty or overworked. Niagara Chardonnay in its cooler-climate, mineral-leaning mood: focused, restrained, and firmly anti–butter bomb. Fumé Blanc: structured, polished, clean-lined, and quietly powerful, knows exactly when to lead and when to step back (Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard) Okanagan Riesling with real backbone: bright acidity, dry, precise, and absolutely no patience for flab. Clean, intelligent whites that respect the salmon and don’t try to outshine it. Still very Canadian behaviour. Our choice: Tantalus Riesling, 2024 | Kelowna, B.C. Every time we roll into the Okanagan, there’s one rule we never break: Tantalus Vineyards comes first. Not after lunch. Not once we’re settled. First. Partly because we genuinely love the wines of the oldest continuously producing vineyard in British Columbia, and partly because its location in Southeast Kelowna, on the eastern slopes of the Okanagan Valley - feels like a perfectly placed welcome mat for anyone driving in from Calgary. You pull in and the vineyard practically whispers: "You made it. Have a Riesling." And honestly? We always do. And if you know, you know: the Old Vines Riesling is non-negotiable. This flagship bottle comes from a treasured block of Riesling planted back in 1978 and comes with some very real bragging rights - like being named 2021 Lieutenant Governor’s Wine of the Year. Whatever that officially means, we take it to be the wine-world equivalent of a standing ovation from the entire province of British Columbia. Now, the 2024 Tantalus Riesling has also a great story to tell: after a dramatic 2024 crop loss at the home estate, the grapes went on a little adventure of their own, sourced from cool-climate Ontario vineyards before being brought back to Kelowna for fermentation. The result is an off-dry Riesling that’s bright, precise, and quietly impressive; think mandarin, apple, pink grapefruit, citrus pith, and that signature wet-stone finish that makes Riesling lovers weak at the knees. With lively acidity, a modest 11.4% alcohol, and a medal from the 2025 National Wine Awards of Canada, it’s proof that resilience can be delicious. More on the producer website. Alright, enough of the wines (just kidding - never), let’s talk about the lentils, shall we? The side: Braised Lentils with Mirepoix Mirepoix (pronounced meer-PWAH,) is the foundational French flavour base of finely diced onions, carrots, and celery. They’re gently cooked in butter or oil until they soften and release their sweetness. This is the quiet beginning of nearly everything good: soups, stews, stocks, sauces. The traditional ratio is two parts onion to one part carrot and one part celery, but feel free to improvise. It’s remarkably forgiving, and it’s very hard to do wrong. As for lentils, French green (Puy) or Beluga are the only correct choices here. They hold their shape, keep a little bite, and don’t collapse into sadness halfway through cooking. Disclaimer: No offense intended to red, brown, or split lentils, you have your place in the world. Just… not here. French green lentils (aka Lentilles du Puy) and Beluga lentils Garlic, bay leaf, thyme, sometimes bundled neatly into a bouquet garni so it can be removed without drama. The result? A rich, savoury base that behaves like a side dish but secretly thinks it could be the main character. Ingredients 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups onion, diced 1 cup celery, diced 1 cup carrot, diced 3–4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 1½ cups dry French green lentils (Le Puy) or Beluga/black lentils ¼ cup sherry, red, white, or skip and add 1 tsp red wine vinegar at the end 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock (or water + 1 bouillon cube) 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon mustard (whole grain or Dijon, optional but encouraged) 4–5 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried) 2 bay leaves Instructions Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, and carrot. Stir 4–5 minutes, then lower heat to medium and cook another 4–5 minutes until soft and fragrant. Add garlic and lentils. Stir for 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and let it cook off, about 2 minutes. Add stock, salt, and mustard. Stir, bring to a lively simmer. Add thyme and bay leaves, cover, and gently simmer on low for 25–30 minutes, until lentils are tender but still holding their shape. Uncover and cook off any excess liquid. Remove herbs, taste, adjust salt. Finish with a tiny splash of red wine vinegar to wake everything up. These lentils aren’t just a side, they’re the foundation. Calm, grounding, and quietly doing the responsible work so the proteins can have their little emotional arcs. From here, you choose your adventure. For my recipes, I used the same technique (sous-vide) for both mains, because chaos is for flavour, not for planning. Main #1: Sous-Vide Pork Tenderloin with Herb Crust - rich and indulgent. Main #2: Sous-Vide Salmon - clean and confident. Main #1: Sous-Vide Pork Tenderloin with Herb Crust I remember one of my eeriest and most unforgettable cooking experiences. It took place in the kitchen of a French chef who taught me how to make Salt-Crusted Pork Roast (Rôti de porc en croûte de sel). He was a little unhinged. Loud. Intensely French. He had opinions, strong ones. About former colleagues. About chefs he clearly despised. About people who were absolutely not present to defend themselves. Many of these opinions were wildly inappropriate and delivered at full volume. No one intervened. Everyone carried on chopping, stirring, nodding, as if this were perfectly normal behaviour. Which, somehow, in that kitchen, it was. And yet, what he cooked was extraordinary: Rôti de porc en croûte is a classic of French cuisine, traditionally prepared in one of three ways: wrapped in puff pastry for crispness, or encased in a salt crust for meat so tender it barely resists the knife or in a herb and mustard crust. I choose the last one. I’ve always felt that throwing away a kilo of salt a bit wasteful. Especially when the herb-and-mustard version tastes just as good, if not better. Sous vide cooking When sous vide machines finally became mainstream, I never looked back. Sous vide (French for “under vacuum”) is a very polite way of cooking food in a plastic bag, slowly, in a warm bath, at an extremely controlled temperature. Invented by a French chef in the 1970s, it’s all about patience: low heat, long time, no panic. The goal? Perfectly even cooking, maximum juiciness, and zero drama. Nothing overcooks, nothing dries out, and the food emerges calm, tender, and quietly superior. Sous vide is pronounced soo veed - with a D at the end! It’s often mispronounced as "soo vee", which is… unfortunate, because sous vie means something else entirely. And while cooking under life sounds poetic, it is not, in fact, a method. The D matters. Say it proudly. Like you know what you’re doing. So, pork tenderloin, so often dry and unforgiving, becomes something else entirely when cooked sous vide: juicy, precise, nearly impossible to mess up. I rarely make pork tenderloin without it now (unless it’s butterflied and marinated). It’s simply superior. Yes, it’s an investment (around $100) but everything you cook with it improves. And it’s small, which matters when your kitchen is already full of appliances you swore you’d use and absolutely do not. When you’re dealing with quick-cooking meats (steaks, pork chops, pork tenderloin) temperature is everything. It’s the difference between juicy and jubilant, or dry and deeply disappointing. Pork starts tightening up and squeezing out moisture around 120°F (49°C), and from there it just gets more opinionated the hotter it goes. Sous vide, thankfully, puts you in charge. Choose your temperature, lock it in, and let the pork behave exactly the way you want it to. This is the chart (form Serious Eats) I personally use when recommending sous-vide temperatures for pork tenderloin - my go-to reference. And if you’re short on time, three hours is plenty to get it perfectly tender and juicy. Sous-Vide Pork Tenderloin with Herb Crust Serving: 3-4 | Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 3 hours and 10 minutes Deeply savoury. Ridiculously good. A perfectly juicy pork tenderloin with a bold mustard, garlic, and herb crust. Quite possibly the best pork tenderloin you’ll ever make. Ingredients 1 pork tenderloin (about 500–600 g / 1.1–1.3 lb) - ideally with a bit of fat still attached 1 tsp fine salt ½ tsp black pepper 2 clove garlic, lightly crushed, skin left on 1 tbsp butter or olive oil For the crust 2 tbsp coarse Dijon mustard 1 tbsp garlic paste or finely minced garlic 1 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped ½ tsp black pepper Flaky salt, to finish Instructions Prepare the water bath: Fill your sous vide container with enough water to fully submerge the food, ensuring the minimum water level is met. Attach the immersion circulator and begin heating. Choose your cooking temperature - see the chart above for your preferred level of doneness. My personal sweet spot: Temperature: 140°F (60°C) Time: 3-4 hours Season & sous vide: Season the pork tenderloin generously with salt and pepper. Place it in a vacuum bag with the butter (or oil) and garlic, seal, and cook at your chosen temperature for the selected time. Dry & preheat: Remove the pork from the bag and dry it thoroughly with paper towels. This is essential for browning Preheat the oven to 550°F / 290°C. If available, use the roast or broil function with heat from the top element. Prepare the crust: In a small bowl, mix the Dijon mustard, garlic paste, thyme, rosemary, and black pepper. Coat the pork: Spread the mustard mixture evenly over the pork. Sprinkle lightly with flaky salt. High-heat finish: Place the pork on a rack set over a baking sheet (for air circulation), fat side up. Position it on the top rack, close to the heating element. Roast until deeply golden and crusted, about 5–6 minutes.Turn and roast the other side for a few more minutes if needed. Rest & serve: The pork has already rested slightly after sous vide, so it won’t overcook in the oven. Slice and serve immediately. Note: You can also skip the oven and finish the pork in a screaming-hot (cast-iron) pan, turning until a deep crust forms on all sides. It’s a bit messier and requires more kitchen cleanup, but just as excellent. The Main #2: Sous-vide Salmon Now yes, I use my sous vide machine for the salmon too. If you’re going to spend the money, you might as well commit. Some people will tell you sous vide isn’t necessary for fish. Fish cooks fast. Fish is forgiving. Fish doesn’t need the drama. To which I politely ask: have you actually tried it? Because if the answer is no, you’re missing out. Cooking salmon sous vide is the simplest way to get perfectly cooked fish, every single time. No guessing, no hovering over the pan, no crossed fingers. Just precision. Sous vide salmon comes out a luminous, translucent blush: silky, delicately flaky, and impossibly tender. Pan-seared salmon, meanwhile, often tells a more chaotic story: overcooked edges, a centre scrambling to catch up, and that telltale white albumin quietly announcing the fish has gone a step too far. With sous vide, the salmon never panics. The temperature is exact, the texture is controlled, and the uncertainty disappears. What you’re left with is calm, precise cooking, and salmon that’s consistently moist, tender, and quietly perfect. Also: choose your salmon wisely. This is not a background protein. This is the main character. Salmon isn’t here to politely fill space on the plate while sauces and sides do the talking. Its flavour, texture, and fat content are the point. Good salmon should taste clean and rich at the same time, with enough natural fat to stay luscious when cooked gently. When you start with quality, fresh, well-handled, responsibly sourced, you don’t need tricks. No heavy marinades, no distractions, no apologies. Treat it like the lead role it is, and everything else on the plate should know its place. Lentils, attention! Temperature Matters (A Lot) Salmon is extremely sensitive to temperature. Even a few degrees can mean the difference between silky perfection and disappointment. That’s why precision matters. My personal preference, after far too much research (blogs, chefs, restaurant kitchens) and a few very willing test runs, is 113°F / 45°C for 50 minutes. The result is salmon that’s translucent, incredibly moist, and delicately flaky, almost custard-like, but still recognizably salmon. Thicker fillets may need closer to an hour, but the beauty of sous vide is this: whether you’re cooking one portion or ten, the method stays the same. Every fillet comes out perfectly cooked. Sous Vide Salmon Temperature Guide 104°F / 40°C – Firm, sashimi-like 113°F / 45°C – Translucent, just beginning to flake (my favourite) 122°F / 50°C – Very tender, moist, and flaky 131°F / 55°C – Firm, fully flaky, still juicy Sous-Vide Salmon with Brown Butter Miso Servings: 4 | Prep time: 10 minutes | Cook time: 1 hour The brown butter miso is optional, but I really love this umami-packed sauce. If you don’t feel like buying miso or making the sauce, the salmon is still perfectly delicious simply seared after its sous-vide bath and served over lentils. Simple, elegant, and still very much a win. Ingredients Salmon fillets: Atlantic or Pacific salmon both work well. Look for vibrant colour, intact skin, and flesh that looks plump and fresh. Avoid any dullness, brown spots, or overly fishy smell, fresh salmon should smell like the ocean, not like regret. For Sous Vide Salmon Four 115 grams / 4 oz salmon fillet, skin on, pin bones removed, 560 grams /16 oz in total 10 grams / 2 tsp kosher salt Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 2 clove garlic, lightly crushed, skin left on 30 grams / 2 tbsp unsalted butter or olive oil For the brown butter miso 115 g / ½ cup unsalted butter 2 tbsp Japanese miso paste 1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari 1 tsp rice vinegar or lemon juice 1 tsp honey or maple syrup (optional, for balance) Instructions Prepare the water bath: Fill your sous vide container with enough water to fully submerge the food, ensuring the minimum water level is met. Attach the immersion circulator and begin heating. Choose your cooking setting Texture: Tender with a warm, silky center Temperature: 113°F (45°C) Time: 50 minutes Prepare the salmon: If not already cut, cut into portions of about 4 oz /115 g each. Season: Lightly season each salmon portion with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Place into a vacuum bag with the butter or olive oil, and garlic. Seal: Vacuum-seal the bag, making sure all excess air is removed and the salmon is fully sealed. Submerge: Attach a weight to the bottom of the bag if needed to keep it submerged. Lower the bag into the water bath and secure it with a clip. Cook: Let the salmon cook sous vide for the full 50 minutes at 113°F / 45°C or adjust to your liking- see the Temperature Guide above and follow your own level of commitment. Remove and dry: Carefully remove the salmon from the water bath. Transfer the fillets to a paper towel–lined plate or baking sheet. Discard the garlic. Pat the skin thoroughly dry (this is key for a good sear.) Make the brown butter miso: In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Continue cooking until the butter foams, then turns golden brown and smells nutty. Remove from heat and whisk in miso, soy sauce, vinegar, and honey (if using). Keep warm on very low heat. Finish Place the salmon on a bed of lentils and spoon the warm brown butter miso generously over the top. Finish with: A sprinkle of sesame seeds Chopped chives or scallions A pinch of flaky sea salt Serve immediately, and try not to lick the spoon. In the end, this is really a love letter to good building blocks: a humble mirepoix, lentils with integrity, a well-treated piece of pork or salmon, and a bottle of wine that knows how to behave at the table. Nothing flashy, nothing bossy, just thoughtful cooking that rewards attention and forgives the occasional glass too many. Make it once, then make it your own. Add herbs with confidence, pour the Canadian wine proudly, and remember: when lentils are this good, they’re no longer a side dish, they’re a lifestyle. Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Truite aux amandes - aka almond-crusted trout - is a classic French dish that proves fish can be both elegant and a little fun. Picture tender, flaky trout topped with golden, crunchy almonds, all finished with a buttery, lemony sauce that smells like you’ve got serious kitchen skills (even if you don’t). It’s comfort food with a bit of flair. Pair it with a crisp Alsace Riesling, and suddenly your weeknight dinner feels just a little more special. Rainbow trout form North Sea Fish & Farms | Calgary Trout is one of those quietly dependable fish that doesn’t make a big fuss, but absolutely delivers. Found in cold freshwater lakes and streams, it’s widely available across Canada, often sold whole and ready for a bit of home-cook magic. What really seals the deal is that trout is not only sustainable and accessible, but also surprisingly affordable compared to many other fresh fish. It’s the kind of ingredient that lets you cook something that feels a little fancy without your wallet filing a complaint. Whether you’re pan-frying it in butter or keeping things simple on the grill, trout is an easy win, low effort, high reward, and just fancy enough to make you feel like you know what you’re doing. Most Common Trout Types for Cooking Rainbow trout – mild, nutty flavour, widely available and super versatile. Steelhead – larger, salmon-like, perfect for grilling. Then there are a few "hidden gems" that aren’t usually found in stores, but if you know someone with a fishing license, they’re worth seeking out: Brook trout – delicate, slightly sweet, a true treat. Brown trout – rich, flavourful, ideal for pan-searing or grilling. Tiger trout – visually striking and packed with flavour, guaranteed to impress at the table. Pair it with an Alsace Riesling If you’ve ever stood over a pan of butter-fried trout thinking, "this needs a drink that can keep up", let me point you straight to a dry Alsace Riesling. This pairing is about as classic as it gets, and for good reason. That bright, zippy acidity slices right through the buttery richness like a well-sharpened axe, while the citrusy, slightly mineral notes play nice with the delicate fish and those toasty almonds. Nothing gets lost, nothing gets too heavy, it’s clean, balanced, and just feels right. The Riesling refreshes your palate after each bite, lifting the dish so it doesn’t weigh you down, even with all that glorious butter in the mix. Around Alsace, this kind of pairing is second nature: river fish and crisp white wine go together like flannel and fresh air. Simple, honest, and quietly brilliant. Alsace - France’s Wine Wonderland Alsace is… complicated. Not just politically, with its history bouncing between France and Germany, but geologically as well. Its patchwork of soils, sun-drenched slopes, and varied microclimates gives the region an exceptional terroir, producing wines with distinct character and depth. History and culture are woven into the landscape, from grand cru vineyards with legendary names like Brand ("land of fire", home to a medieval dragon) to Hengst ("stallion", recalling medieval jousts). The scenery also feels straight out of a fairy tale: half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, towering churches, and colourful villages tucked between vineyards and the Vosges hills. These sites produce wines celebrated for their longevity and personality, shaped by centuries of tradition and the unique soils beneath the vines. Alsace’s winemakers embody this philosophy, whether in small biodynamic estates or huge cooperatives producing millions of bottles. Ribeauvillé & Riquewihr (Alsace, France) The variety of wines in Alsace is truly staggering, reflecting both the region’s diverse terroirs and centuries of winemaking expertise. You have the aromatic, fragrant whites like Muscat, bursting with floral and citrus notes, perfect for a sunny afternoon. Then there’s Riesling, the king of Alsace, renowned for its precision, minerality, and ability to age gracefully for decades. Pinot Gris offers a richer, spicier profile, ideal with roasted meats or creamy dishes, while Gewürztraminer delivers exotic, perfumed aromas that transport you straight to the vineyard on a summer morning. Wine stores in Strasbourg, the capital of France's Grand Est region (formerly Alsace) Alsace is also home to sparkling wines, particularly Crémant d’Alsace, which combines elegance and lively bubbles, giving Champagne-level finesse without the wallet shock. And if you’re feeling indulgent, Alsace goes full dessert mode: Sélection Grains Nobles (those magical botrytized gems) and Vendanges Tardives (late harvest wonders) are the ultimate sweet treats. Perfect for pairing with desserts and foie gras. From crisp and citrusy to rich and honeyed, from playful bubbles to legendary noble rot, Alsace offers a wine for every palate and occasion. Alsace winemaking blends heritage, geology, and meticulous craft. Proof that whether it’s French finesse or German precision, the region always grapes your attention. Riesling Riesling is proof that a wine can be both high-maintenance and wildly lovable. Born in Germany’s Rhine region and happiest in cool climates, this aromatic white grape is known for its electric acidity and a personality that ranges from bone-dry to dessert-level sweet. One sip can deliver a whole fruit bowl (think crisp green apple, zesty lime, juicy peach, and ripe pear) along with delicate floral notes that make you feel like you’ve suddenly developed a sophisticated palate. And despite all that flavour, it stays light on its feet, skipping buttery trends like malolactic fermentation because, frankly, Riesling doesn’t follow fads. It sets them. Now let’s address the elephant in the glass: the famous "petrol" aroma. Yes, aged Riesling can smell faintly like gasoline, and no, that’s not a flaw, it’s a feature. This quirky note comes from a compound called TDN and is actually prized by wine enthusiasts, who will happily swirl, sniff, and nod thoughtfully as if they’ve just discovered something profound at a gas station. It’s part of what makes Riesling so fascinating: it evolves, surprises, and occasionally confuses your nose in the best possible way. What really seals the deal is Riesling’s versatility. It thrives in places like Germany’s Mosel and Rheingau, shows a drier, more structured side in Alsace. Even New World regions like Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys that brings citrusy intensity; alongside USA's Washington State and the Finger Lakes are getting in on the action. Canadian Riesling has quietly built a reputation as one of the country’s standout wines - and for good reason. Grown in cool-climate regions like Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, it’s known for its bright, mouthwatering acidity and vibrant fruit flavours like green apple, pear, citrus, and stone fruit. There’s often a distinctive mineral edge too, giving the wine a crisp, refreshing finish that keeps you coming back for another sip. Styles range from dry to off-dry, and Canada also excels at producing late-harvest and ice wines, where Riesling’s natural acidity perfectly balances the sweetness. With standout producers like Cave Spring, Tawse, Thirty Bench, Trius, Charles Baker Wines, Flat Rock Cellars and Pearl Morissette in Ontario, and excellent examples coming out of the Okanagan, like Tantalus Vineyards and CedarCreek Estate Winery, Canadian Riesling is well worth exploring. Whether labeled Trocken (dry), Halbtrocken (off-dry), or fully sweet (Süß), there’s a Riesling for every mood, meal, and moment. It’s the kind of wine that doesn’t make you choose, it just gently nudges you to pour another glass from the bottle. And speaking of bottles… If wine bottles had personalities, the Flûte d’Alsace would be the tall, elegant one who somehow always looks effortlessly put together. This iconic bottle is long, slender, and graceful and not just for show. French law actually requires all still Alsace wines to use this Rhine-style shape. It’s the tallest of the French wine bottles, with little to no indentation at the base, and usually dressed in classy amber or brown tones. Its design comes from Germanic roots, originally created to be lightweight and easy to pack on boats along the Rhine. Trimbach Riesling , 2023 Trimbach from Ribeauvillé was established in 1626, and has built a reputation for producing some of the most classic, long-lived, bone-dry Rieslings in Alsace, including iconic bottles like Clos Sainte Hune and Cuvée Frédéric Emile. Their style is all about precision: no oak, no unnecessary embellishments, just pure grape expression, razor-sharp acidity, and a distinctive steely minerality. The result is a wine that can feel almost austere in its youth, but rewards patience with incredible depth and elegance over time. Trimbach’s philosophy also fits into a broader Alsace tradition often described as "Protestant" versus "Catholic" wine styles. Producers like Trimbach fall into the "Protestant" camp: dry, structured, and mineral-driven wines with a disciplined, almost minimalist approach. On the flip side, "Catholic" styles, often associated with areas around Colmar, lean richer, rounder, and sometimes sweeter, with a more opulent, expressive feel. It’s not a strict rule, more of a playful shorthand, but it does help explain why a glass of Trimbach Riesling feels so focused and precise, like it’s been quietly perfecting itself for the last few centuries. Trimbach wines are organized into five distinct ranges, each with its own style and level of complexity. This bottle comes from the house’s Classic range - the entry level - but don’t let that fool you. It’s a polished, well-made wine that shows exactly why Trimbach has such a strong reputation. The 2023 Trimbach Riesling is a bright, bone-dry white that’s all about freshness and precision. Expect zesty citrus notes: the usual suspects, lemon and grapefruit, alongside crisp green apple and a strong mineral edge. It’s lively, high in acidity, and finishes long with a clean, slightly saline touch that keeps you coming back for another sip. It pairs beautifully with seafood, ceviche, or simply prepared fish, anything that lets its freshness shine. This is a classic, focused style that skips malolactic fermentation to keep all that tension and energy intact. Ageing potential : between 3 and 5 years Producer website: https://www.trimbach.fr/en/vins-alsace Almond-Crusted Trout SERVINGS 4-6 | Preparation: 10 minutes | Cooking: 20 minutes Truite aux amandes - almond-crusted trout - is a French favourite celebrated for its simplicity and elegant contrast of textures. The tender, flaky fish pairs beautifully with crunchy, caramelized almonds for a dish that’s both comforting and refined. Ingredients 4 smaller whole trout (approx. 250 g / 0.5 lb each), gutted 70 g / 5 tbsp butter 2 tbsp / 30 ml oil 4 tbsp / 30 g flour ½ cup / 70 g slivered almonds (this is the minimum, add more unless you’re prepared to face a full-on rebellion at the table… and honestly, it would be justified) 1 lemon, cut into wedges Parsley, to taste Salt, pepper, to taste Instructions 1. Prep the trout Trim fins and round off the tail. Rinse under cold running water, removing any grey inner skin and blood clots. Pat dry and season with salt and pepper. Tip: Dry trout browns better in the pan. 2. Coat in flour Lightly dredge each trout in flour, shaking off excess. Tip: This gives a delicate crust and helps the almonds stick later. 3. Cook the trout Heat 50 g (3.5 tbsp / 1.75 oz) butter + 2 tbsp (30 ml / 1 fl oz) oil in a large skillet. Brown trout on both sides over medium heat. Reduce heat and cook for 6–8 minutes, depending on fish size. Remove them from the pan and reserve on a warm dish. Tip: Avoid overcrowding the pan; cook in batches if needed. 4. Toast the almonds Wipe the pan then melt the remaining 20 g / 1.5 tbsp butter until it’s bubbling. Add the almonds and brown together for 2 minutes, stirring and spooning the butter through them constantly. Tip: Watch closely, almonds go from golden to burnt very fast. 5. Assemble and serve Pour the almonds over the trout, then sprinkle with chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. Don’t forget to add the lemon wedges, someone will absolutely demand it. Serve immediately. Pair with steamed potatoes, green beans, a simple green salad, soy sauce–glazed mushrooms, and, of course, a crisp Riesling d’Alsace for that effortlessly classic French touch. Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. After pálinka (fruit brandy), that unmistakably bitter Hungarian herbal liqueur, Unikum, and paprika, my fourth Hungaricum - a uniquely Hungarian national treasure - is… a pig. Yes, Hungary didn’t stop at fine spirits and spices. We went straight for marbled, fatty, woolly-coated perfection: the Mangalica pig. Also called Mangalitsa for non-Hungarians, this heritage breed nearly disappeared in the late 20th century but is now enjoying a global renaissance. Often dubbed "the Kobe Beef of Pork", its reputation is growing worldwide. Photo credit: EH Farm From snout to tail, the Mangalica is a true Hungaricum. Its curly coat is undeniably charming, but its signature marbled fat, rich colour, and beef-like juiciness are what make it extraordinary. The fat is high in unsaturated fats, omega-3s, and antioxidants, and its fresh, clean lard - a wholesome, delicious alternative to butter - has earned a place in kitchens across Hungary and beyond: cured into Spanish salumi, fried as Japanese tonkatsu, or thick-cut for elegant chops in North America. The pigs themselves are instantly charming. Free-range and foraging naturally, they look more like sheep than pigs, roaming pastures in a life that’s truly pig-glamorous. Originally bred in the 1830s by crossing fat-rich Serbian pigs with sturdy local Hungarian breeds, the Mangalica fell out of favour by the 1950s. Changing tastes and modern refrigeration pushed it to the brink of extinction. But through dedicated breeders, numbers have rebounded. From near disappearance in the 1990s to over 100,000 worldwide today, two-thirds still in Hungary. As Hungarian breeder Péter Tóth says, "The only surefire way to protect the Mangalicas is by eating a lot of them". 🇨🇦 Local Mangalica Pork In Canada, farms from British Columbia to Prince Edward Island are raising Mangalicas, offering richly marbled, flavourful pork close to home. EH Farm in Wheatland County, Alberta, just outside Strathmore, is a family-owned operation specializing in pasture-raised Red Mangalica pork. Christina Stender and her family run a truly sustainable farm, where respect for the animals, the land, and flavour goes hand in hand. The pigs are raised slowly over two years on grass pastures, pesticide-free, with a balanced, plant-based, fodder-enhanced diet. Becoming Red Mangalitsa breeders (among the very first in Canada to import the breed) marked the beginning of a genuine family adventure. The first pigs arrived in late 2016, and by early 2017, pig farming was officially underway for this happy, slightly muddy, and very determined family. Each year, EH Farm celebrates with PigStock, a Hungarian Festival and Mangalica Cook-Out, where the community gathers to honour the iconic pig with food, music, and good company. 🏆 A personal note: One of my proudest moments wasn’t a diploma, medal, or trophy. It was being on the winning team at the Mangalica Stew Cook-Off. PigStock 2019 | Photo credits: Barbara Földesi How did we do it? The Chimney: We cooked on a homemade chimney (inside job, not WorkSafe-approved) - it created controlled, steady heat, perfect for even cooking. The Paprika: Freshly ground from Szeged. (How it crossed borders? Classified.) Rendering the Fat: This is where champions are separated from amateurs: we rendered the fat perfectly before cooking. Flavour doesn’t just start with fat, it demands respect. The Wine Rebellion: White wine instead of red, and yes, it worked beautifully. Sourdough Shenanigans: A little bread snuck into the tasting disappeared immediately. Coincidence? Probably not. Pork + Morels From PigStock to slow, careful cooking, one thing became clear: ingredients with character deserve respect. This is especially true for pairing Mangalica pork with morel mushrooms. Pork and morels mushrooms are a classic, high-end pairing for good reason. Morels bring earthy, nutty depth; pork brings richness and tenderness. Together, they practically demand a cream sauce and a glass of something civilized. Mangalica being even more earhty and deep in flavour than regular pork, the choice is a no-brainer. Morels are the crown jewels of mushrooms: wild, elusive, and packed with earthy, nutty flavour. Alberta and British Columbia morels appear in Calgary each spring, often from late May through June. A small handful is all you need to elevate any dish. The rich, earthy Mangalica pork paired with morels practically begs for a cream sauce and a good wine. Kadarka: The Hungarian Wine And, as the Hungarian proverb goes - "Three is the Hungarian truth" - it was clear that this Hungarian pig and its mischievous Hussar-cap mushrooms simply couldn’t face the table without a proper Hungarian wine alongside. We paired this duo with Kadarka (KAH-DAR-KAH), a light, spicy Hungarian red. With bright acidity, peppery notes, and delicate fruit, Kadarka complements both the earthy mushrooms and rich pork without overpowering them. It’s elegant, nuanced, and perfectly in tune with the flavours on the plate. Kadarka is a traditional Hungarian red grape variety, best known for producing the wine of the same name. Its origins are a little mysterious (as all good characters are): some trace it back to Asia Minor, others to Albania. Even its name hints at travel and it likely comes from Shkodra (Skadar), a city in present-day Albania. The grape arrived in Hungary via the Balkans in the 18th century, after the Ottoman period, and quickly became a national favourite. By the 19th century, Kadarka was grown almost everywhere in Hungary. Today its territory has shrunk, but its reputation hasn’t. The most celebrated expressions come from Szekszárd and the Kunság region, with honourable appearances in Villány and Eger. What’s the grape like? Kadarka grows vigorously, even in poor, sandy soils, and tolerates drought well. It loves sunshine, stands tall without much support, and doesn’t complain much… except when it comes to frost and rot, which it really dislikes. The grape ripens late, but because it’s sensitive, it’s often harvested earlier than ideal. In great sites and good years, though, it can reach impressive ripeness and complexity. And the wine? When Kadarka is happy, the wine is beautifully spicy, aromatic, and lively. On richer, loess or clay soils, it gives deeper, more structured reds. On sandy soils, it turns out lighter, fresher, more playful wines. In short Kadarka isn’t about brute strength. It’s about elegance, spice, and personality, a slightly moody, deeply charming grape that rewards patience, good terroir. Szekszárd wine region Szekszárd (pronounced “SEX-ARD”), a name that may get a smile at first, but it quickly earns respect in the glass. One of Hungary’s oldest red wine regions, it stretches across sunlit loess hills in the country’s warm south. Long summers and mild autumns allow grapes to ripen fully, developing silky textures and layered spice. The region’s deep, powdery soils (sometimes up to 30 meters thick) retain just enough moisture to keep vines balanced, resulting in wines that feel both generous and refined, with velvety structure and vibrant freshness. Here, Bikavér leans elegant and spice-driven, Kadarka offers notes of sour cherry and pepper with delicate perfume, and Kékfrankos delivers structure and depth. Just a short drive from Budapest, the region combines rolling vineyard hills with glowing sunsets. The city of Szekszárd itself serves as the heart of the area, home to historic wine cellars and beautiful baroque architecture that reflect centuries of winemaking tradition. Heimann Estate, Szekszárd Photo credit: https://heimann.hu/en/ Heimann Családi Birtok (Family Estate) is a pioneering winery in Hungary’s Szekszárd region, with the Heimann family’s Swabian roots dating back to 1758. The modern estate was founded in 1989 by Zoltán and Ágnes Heimann, who helped redefine winemaking in the region after the fall of communism. Today, the family farms 23 hectares of prized vineyards, fully converting to organic viticulture in 2019. Their low-intervention approach, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, minimal sulphur, and aging in clay amphorae and Hungarian oak, lets the land and grapes speak for themselves. In 2016, the estate was named “Winery of the Year” by the Gault-Millau Guide. Photo credit: https://heimann.hu/en/ Instagram: heimann_by_kadarkaman The winery now operates two complementary lines. Heimann Családi Birtok focuses on structured, age-worthy blends like Barbár, the flagship red, and Franciscus, a bold mix often featuring Cabernet Franc and Sagrantino. Heimann & Fiai (Heimann & Sons), led by Zoltán Heimann Jr.: a tenth-generation winemaker trained internationally and known as the “Kadarka Man”, highlights Hungary’s indigenous grapes. His Kadarka and Kékfrankos wines emphasize freshness, site expression, and subtle oak influence. Together, the two ranges combine family tradition with innovation, shaping the future of Szekszárd winemaking. Heimann Kadarka Szekszárd 2024 Style: Light-bodied and elegant, this wine is often compared to Pinot Noir for its pale ruby colour and refined, delicate structure. Aromas: On the nose, it offers fresh red berry aromas: cherry, strawberry, and raspberry, layered with hints of rosehip and subtle floral notes. Palate: bright and lively, driven by refreshing acidity and lifted by distinctive spice, including touches of Hungarian paprika and pink pepper. Made with minimal intervention, it often undergoes whole-bunch fermentation and is aged in large used oak casks or stainless steel to preserve freshness. Mangalica Pork Chops with Morels Serves 4 Preparation Time: 25–35 min | Cooking Time: 20–25 min Rich, earthy, and beautifully simple, a dish that lets exceptional ingredients shine. If you’ve never cooked Mangalica pork before, this is the perfect introduction. Famous for its intense marbling and buttery texture, Mangalica delivers incredible flavour with minimal effort. A hard sear, earthy morels, and a silky pan sauce are all you need to create something elegant yet comforting. This recipe is refined enough for a dinner party but simple enough for a relaxed weekend meal at home. Ingredients 4 bone-in Mangalica pork loin chops (8–10 oz / 225–285 g each, about 1 inch / 2.5 cm thick) 100–150 g / 4–8 oz fresh morel mushrooms cleaned or 30 g dried morels, rehydrated 45 ml / 3 tbsp Mangalica lard, duck fat, or oil 1 large shallot, finely diced 120 ml / ½ cup dry sherry, brandy, or white wine 240 ml / 1 cup good-quality chicken or veal stock 180 ml / ¾ cup heavy cream Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper Fresh chives or parsley, finely chopped Instructions Bring the pork chops to room temperature for 20–30 minutes before cooking. Pat them completely dry — this ensures a beautiful golden crust. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat a large cast iron skillet over high heat. Add the fat and allow it to heat until shimmering and just beginning to smoke. Place the chops in the pan and leave them undisturbed for 3–4 minutes to develop a deep, caramelized crust. Flip the chops and reduce the heat to medium. Cook another 4–6 minutes, depending on thickness, until the internal temperature reaches 60–63°C / 140–145°F. Remove to a warm plate and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 5–10 minutes. In the same pan, add more fat if needed and sauté the morels over medium-high heat for 3–5 minutes, until golden and aromatic. Add the shallot and cook until softened. Deglaze with the sherry or brandy, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Allow it to reduce slightly, then add the stock and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook gently until the sauce thickens to a silky consistency, about 2–4 minutes. Return the pork chops (along with any resting juices) to the pan briefly to warm through. Spoon the sauce over top and finish with fresh herbs. Tips for Success Ingredient Note: If you’re unable to find Mangalica pork, simply choose a high-quality, well-raised farm pork chop from a trusted butcher. Look for good marbling and a nice layer of fat; that’s where the flavour lives. If you are in Alberta, you may also want to check out the wonderful Alberta Mangalitsa Farm at https://ehfarms.ca. They are doing beautiful work raising this exceptional heritage breed locally. Do not overcook. Mangalica is richly marbled but best enjoyed with a slightly pink center for maximum juiciness. Clean morels carefully. They’re hollow and can trap dirt. Rinse quickly and dry thoroughly, or brush clean. Serve with: mashed potatoes, buttered egg noodles, or roasted root vegetables to soak up the sauce. Happy sipping and savouring!