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- Pissaladière, Provençal Rosé & the Fine Art of Pretending You’re on the French Riviera
👩🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Pissaladière is what happens when pizza goes to Nice, takes one look at tomato sauce and mozzarella, and calmly says, “Non, merci.” The word pissaladière doesn’t come out of nowhere (even if its name already raises an eyebrow). It comes from the Niçois pissaladiera , itself derived from pissala (or pissalat ), a condiment whose name very elegantly means… "salted fish" ( peis salat ). Poetry, really. Originally, pissala was a pungent paste of small salted fish spread directly onto the dough. Only afterward did the onions arrive, cooked slowly and in generous quantities until sweet and silky, softening both the anchovies and any initial hesitation from the eater. This is a dish born of thrift and intensity: nothing wasted, bold flavours, and names chosen without marketing committees. It may sound austere on paper, but on the plate it’s rich, savoury, and deeply satisfying. The structure is simple. A thick, bread-like dough (or puff pastry if someone is feeling indulgent) is covered with a near-excessive amount of long-cooked onions. Anchovies are laid on top with deliberate, geometric precision, followed by black Niçoise olives, which arrive to remind you that this dish is coastal, serious, and absolutely not trying to win over children. From Nice, and shaped by its closeness to Liguria, pissaladière sits comfortably between cultures without needing to justify itself. It’s served warm or at room temperature, as an appetizer, a snack, or a deceptively filling meal. And if anchovies aren’t your thing, this is not the moment to be brave. Serve with rosé, sunshine, and a small debate about whether pizza was ever part of the conversation at all. Wine pairing Pissaladière is salty, savoury, a little sweet, and proudly Mediterranean, so it needs a wine that can keep up without starting a fight. Top choice: Dry Provençal Rosé Crisp, pale, refreshing, and born for this moment. It cuts the olive oil, charms the onions, and makes peace with the anchovies. Think Côtes de Provence or Bandol . Côtes de Provence is your easygoing, beach-on-a-bottle option or rather driveway camping chair energy if you're in Canada , even when it’s definitely not summer. Most bottles land comfortably between $20–$30 , with crowd-pleasers like Domaine Houchart (~$22) and Mirabeau Classic (~$27) delivering crisp, pale, dangerously drinkable relief from the forecast. Feeling fancy? Reach for Château Peyrassol (~$35 and up) and mentally relocate to Saint-Tropez while wearing socks indoors. Bandol , meanwhile, shows up with structure, depth, and a higher price tag. Expect mid-$30s and up , with icons like Domaine Tempier often $50+ . These are rosés (and reds) made from Mourvèdre: serious, layered wines that politely suggest you sit down and pay attention. In short: Côtes de Provence = casual escape, lawn chair, winter denial. Bandol = bolder, richer, "this rosé has something to say." Also perfect with a small glass of Clairet , if the mood strikes. Clairet is a deeply coloured rosé (almost a light red) from Bordeaux, made with slightly longer skin contact than rosé but less than red wine. Fruity, low-tannin, and packed with red berry flavours, it’s meant to be enjoyed young and lightly chilled, sitting neatly between rosé and red. It’s also the historical origin of the English word claret . Also excellent: Crisp white wines , high acid, no oak drama Vermentino Chablis or unoaked Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Gewürztraminer Light reds, if you insist Keep it chillable and polite: Pinot Noir Gamay / Beaujolais Bandol red if you’re feeling bold but still civilized. What to avoid: Big oak, big tannins, big egos. They make anchovies taste metallic and nobody wins. Rule of thumb: Keep it fresh, keep it chilled, and let the onions do the talking. Our choice was this lovely bottle of rosé, because it tastes like sunshine, behaves beautifully with food, and instantly makes any meal feel like it’s happening somewhere far more glamorous than our actual location. Peyrassol Les Commandeurs ROSÉ 2024 AOP Côtes de Provence Backed by decades of Provençal winemaking experience, Peyrassol takes quality very seriously: great terroirs, beautiful grapes, and close collaboration with trusted growers. As of this vintage, they’ve gone fully organic, proving that doing the right thing can also taste very good. This rosé is the perfect introduction to the Peyrassol style: bright, fruity, light on its feet, and dangerously easy to drink - basically summer in a bottle. The 2024 vintage had just enough drama to be interesting (winter rain, a bit of spring frost, no apocalyptic heatwaves), resulting in grapes that ripened slowly and evenly. The wine is pale, fresh, and aromatic, with notes of wild berries, citrus, a hint of bergamot, and a subtle spicy edge. Crisp, refreshing, and versatile, it pairs effortlessly with sunshine, good company, and the strong belief that one glass will definitely turn into two. Founded in the 13th century by the Knights Templar (yes, those Knights Templar), La Commanderie de Peyrassol sits dramatically between the Mediterranean Sea and the Verdon, at the foothills of the Massif des Maures. The estate spans nearly 850 hectares of oak forests, olive groves, and garrigue (low, wild Mediterranean plants that smell like herbs, sun, and vacation) - nature’s way of lovingly guarding the historic and highly regarded Château Peyrassol vineyard at its heart. Owned by Philippe Austruy since 2001, the estate produces elegant, organically certified AOP Côtes de Provence wines that take their job very seriously (but are still great fun to drink). Peyrassol is also home to an impressive contemporary art collection, because apparently wine alone wasn’t ambitious enough. Visitors are welcome to come for gourmet dining, vineyard strolls, Provençal stays, weddings, seminars or, ideally, all of the above. Welcome to Peyrassol, where history multitasks beautifully. The Art Collection Scattered through the vines, gardens, wooded paths, and dedicated exhibition spaces, monumental works by leading 20th- and 21st-century artists appear when you least expect them. With new acquisitions, artist residencies, and rotating exhibitions, the estate stays as creatively alive as it is delicious. More about this wine and the estate on the producer's official website. Traditional Pissaladière from Nice Serves 6–8 | Prep time: 30 minutes + 1 hour (fermentation) | Cook time: 25 minutes A recipe with history, simplicity, and a very good sense of taste. If you’re looking for the edible soul of Nice, you’re exactly where you should be. Here, there are no frills. Just slow-cooked onions, pissalat (anchovy paste), black olives, and a soft, herb-scented bread dough. Nothing more. This is the South of France, in its most authentic form. Ingredients For the topping 1 kg / 2.2 lb onions 2 tbsp olive oil 2 sprigs fresh thyme About 20 oil-packed anchovies 2 tbsp anchovy paste or homemade pissalat* About 20 black olives (Niçoise-style) *Homemade pissalat substitute: blend 4 small oil-packed sardines with 8 anchovy fillets. For the bread dough 300 g / 2½ cups all-purpose flour 170 ml / ¾ cup room-temperature water 7g / 2¼ tsp active dry yeast 2 tbsp olive oil 1 heaping tsp salt 1 tbsp Herbes de Provence Instructions Prepare the Onion Topping Peel and thinly slice the onions. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan, add the onions and thyme, and cook gently over low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft, silky, and lightly caramelized. Stir in the anchovy paste (or homemade pissalat), mix well, then remove from heat and let cool. While the onions are cooking, prepare the dough. Prepare the Dough Mix all ingredients, then knead thoroughly until the dough is soft and elastic, about 15 minutes. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean towel, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, until doubled in size. Assemble & Bake Preheat the oven to 210°C / 410°F. Roll out the dough on a baking sheet lined with lightly floured parchment paper. Spread the cooled onion mixture evenly over the dough. Drain a bit the anchovies on paper towel and arrange them over the onions. Scatter the black olives on top. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the crust is golden. Serve warm or at room temperature with a mixed green side salad and vinegrette . The Secret Ingredient: Pissalat Pissalat - literally "salted fish" in Niçois - is a historic regional condiment made from fermented anchovies and sardines, seasoned, then finely ground into a rich, aromatic paste. Traditionally homemade, it was once a staple in Niçoise kitchens. True artisanal pissalat is now hard to find outside the region, but this simple homemade version comes wonderfully close: Blend 4 small oil-packed sardines + 8 anchovy fillets until smooth. This intensely savoury base gives pissaladière its depth, natural umami, and unmistakable authenticity—a salty madeleine for true lovers of Niçoise cuisine. Happy sipping and savouring!
- Happy New Year! Foie Gras Now, Lentils Tomorrow
St. Sylvestre deserves a little theatre and absolutely no restraint. So we ended the year the only way that felt honest: with foie gras (fwah grah) , a silky, rich specialty food product made of the liver of a duck or goose , and very much not an everyday pleasure. It’s a this-moment-matters kind of ingredient. One quiet toast, one decadent bite, and the year slipped away exactly as it should: on a high note. Naturally, this was only the warm-up. We still have a New Year’s Eve party to attend, surrounded by Hungarian friends and the full spectrum of Hungarian excess: too much food, too much wine and pálinka (not for me), loud opinions, louder laughter, and a heroic disregard for tomorrow morning. What happens after that is anyone’s guess, but history suggests it will involve second helpings, questionable dancing, and at least one story we’ll all agree never happened. Back to the birds’ liver, shall we. This particular indulgence had a backstory. I have two grown children. Well, mostly grown. One is technically still 18, but both now live far away at university, communicating mainly via text messages and student-budget spreadsheets. When they asked what I wanted for Christmas, I answered calmly, reasonably, without drama: foie gras. Or any of its noble offshoots: mousse, terrine, pâté. I’m adaptable. And since they’re in Québec, arguably duck-and-goose-liver capital of this continent, the request didn’t feel excessive. You can barely swing a baguette there without hitting a duck (confit). Of course, their mother had just requested a luxury item that comes with footnotes, opinions, and a full moral appendix. Foie gras is loved, banned, regulated, protested, defended, and endlessly debated at dinner tables worldwide. Today, it’s legally produced in only a handful of places: France, bien sûr , Hungary, Spain, Bulgaria, parts of Belgium, and a few spots beyond Europe, including China and Québec. Standards vary. Opinions fly. No one stays neutral. Which is precisely why it belonged on the table for St. Sylvestre. The final night of the year calls for something indulgent: something reserved, intentional, and a little bit daring. A slice of foie gras, savoured slowly, and the simple pleasure of ending the year with a luxury saved for moments that truly feel worth it. And here’s the part that really got me: despite living on a student budget (aka ramen economics), they still managed to buy their mother a foie gras mousse and a pâté with foie. Not a kilo, not a scandal, just two very thoughtful, very French-Canadian little luxuries. Is it delicious? Yes. Is it controversial? Absolutely. Is it the kind of gift that says "We love you, but please don’t ask us again until we graduate"? Entirely. No resolutions today. Just good bread, sweet wine, and one final, bite of indulgence before the year ends: foie gras for lunch. Which brings me back to the beginning. Growing up, my grandparents had a farm, and once a year, at least, we had foie gras straight from the bird . No ceremony, no explanation, just the quiet understanding that this was something special. Looking back, that’s probably where my decadent palate was born, whether my arteries agreed or not. Add a glass of late-harvest wine, honeyed, golden, sweet, and you’re set. Some people are raised on apple slices and discipline. Others on foie gras and dessert wine. Briefly . By January 2, we’re back to lentils, plain yogurt, and moral reckoning. Balance is important. Wine Pairing with Foie Gras: The Art of Glorious Excess Wine Pairing with Foie Gras: Because Excess Deserves Structure Foie gras is not a food that whispers, it demands a wine that can keep up, preferably without blinking. First Rule: This Is Not a Job for "Something Light" If you’re thinking, "I’ll just open a crisp white," pause. Foie gras has the texture of softened butter and the confidence of a 19th-century aristocrat. It does not want refreshment. It wants contrast, sweetness, acidity, and a wine that knows what it’s doing. The Classic Power Couple: Foie Gras & Sweet Wine Enter late-harvest wines: Tokaji Aszú from Hungary and Sauternes from France . Their magic comes from noble rot , (Botrytis cinerea), which shrivels the grapes and concentrates their sugars, turning excess into elegance. These wines were practically invented for foie gras, possibly by someone who thought, "What if indulgence… but more?" The magic lies in the tension: The foie gras - rich, fatty, luxurious. The wine - sweet but sharp, honeyed yet acidic. Together, they cancel out each other’s excesses like two elegant people who know when to stop talking. Tokaji Aszú: The Intellectual Choice Tokaji is for people who like their indulgence served with a tiny academic lecture on the side. Yes, it’s sweet, but it’s also spicy, zippy, and strangely disciplined, the kind of wine that tastes like dessert but behaves like it has a PhD. Oremus Winery, Tokaj, Hungary Pair it with foie gras and things escalate quickly. Suddenly everyone’s saying words like balance and length , nodding wisely, as if this was always meant to be a serious conversation and not just an excuse to eat rich pâté. The sweetness flatters, the acidity keeps it all in check, and nobody feels even a little bit embarrassed. And yes, I’m Hungarian, so I’m contractually obligated to mention Tokaji. It grows on ancient volcanic soil, which explains why beneath all that honeyed apricot and spice there’s a faint smoky, mineral edge. Decadent? Absolutely. But also proudly, irresistibly Hungarian. Read my post about Tokaj wine here. Sauternes: The Show-Off Draped in honey, apricot, saffron, and an unmistakable sense of inherited vines, it arrives with the quiet assurance of something raised on limestone soils with a hint of gravel, sand, silt, and clay . This is a white wine from the Bordeaux region of France that speaks of old parcels, low yields, and families who have been arguing about pruning since Napoleon. Its sweetness flirts shamelessly with the richness, the acidity slices through the fat with surgical elegance, and suddenly everyone starts speaking in half-sentences: "texture… balance… très noble." This isn’t a pairing; it’s a well-rehearsed relationship that’s been going on since before revolutions were fashionable. Call it excessive but necessary edible aristocracy. Dry Wine? Bold, But Risky Yes, dry wines can work: Alsace Pinot Gris , aged Riesling . Also, Champagne , but this is advanced territory. If sweet wine is the ballroom dance, champagne is improv jazz: rebellious and exhilarating. The bubbles cut the fat, the acidity keeps things lively, and suddenly foie gras feels less like a moral dilemma and more like a celebration. Final Rule: If the foie gras feels affordable, upgrade the wine. If the foie gras wasn’t expensive enough, simply add a more expensive bottle. Balance restored. In Conclusion Wine pairing with foie gras isn’t about restraint. It’s about intentional excess. Choose a wine that can stand up, push back, and maybe even steal a little attention. Foie gras can handle it. After all, this is not a Tuesday salad. This is a moment. Happy New Year, CHEERS 🥂 Happy sipping and savouring!
- The Gouda, the Boar, and the Ugni: A Spaghetti-Western Anniversary Dinner, with Barolo Holdin’ the Reins
Some couples celebrate their wedding anniversary with candlelit dinners or carefully planned getaways. Ours lands on December 29, wedged between post-Christmas exhaustion and pre-New Year’s chaos, the no-man’s-land of the holiday calendar. Most years, we forget it entirely until it taps us on the shoulder sometime around noon, usually while we’re still managing leftover negotiations and the mild lawlessness that follows Christmas. This year, we decided to intervene. If the calendar insisted on stranding our anniversary in holiday limbo, then we would meet it head-on-high noon, no cover, no retreat. Add a flicker of nostalgia (we’d missed the Calgary Stampede and were clearly craving pageantry of any kind), and a plan took shape. With our daughters as co-conspirators, we staged a surprise dinner inspired entirely by my husband’s favourite film. A full-blown, theatrical spaghetti-western anniversary: equal parts dinner, costume party, and cinematic homage . You may have already spotted the reference. Our title tips its hat to The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966), Sergio Leone’s masterpiece, immortalized by Ennio Morricone’s whistle-and-goosebump score. But instead of gunslingers and moral standoffs, our showdown featured smoked cheese, wild boar, and one dramatic grape, alongside a Barolo old enough to command respect. Costumes Were Non-Negotiable - The dress-up followed swiftly and without restraint. The Ugly I leaned fully into my destiny as a slightly disreputable saloon owner - Madame Très Laide ("very ugly", for those whose French begins and ends with the wine list): a woman of questionable morals and excellent hospitality. The look came together in five minutes flat, with a heroic two-minute makeup job: feathered fascinator slightly askew, glitter applied with confidence rather than strategy, and that end-of-the-trail polish that suggests she keeps the saloon running, even if the piano’s out of tune and the rules are mostly optional. All tarnished glamour and frontier decay. The girls styled themselves as opposing forces, turning our living room into a frontier town divided by temperament alone. The Good Calm, controlled, and quietly intimidating, she dressed in clean lines and muted tones, she wore a neatly draped pancho that barely shifted when she moved. She stood still, eyes narrowed, as if she were listening to the wind, or waiting for someone else to lose their nerve. Miss Good didn’t rush. She didn’t need to. Time was clearly on her side. The Bad The other went gleefully Bad. With flamboyant purple hair, lace layered with enthusiastic abandon, and a neckline plunging deep into "you’ve been warned" territory, she embraced chaos with visible delight. She squinted dramatically into the middle distance, daring fate, trouble, or at least someone to draw first. Lassie Bad wasn’t content to be part of the story, she intended to hijack it entirely. It was less tasteful homage and more living-room spaghetti western. Judgment suspended, budget firmly limited. (Sommelier 101: never spend more on dollar-store props than on your red.) My husband needed only a few items: a cowboy hat, a sheriff’s star, a plastic pistol rescued from an old toy box, and a long coat he once bought at Winners in a moment of optimism and never wore. Presented without explanation, he accepted them without comment, and stepped fully into character. The transformation was immediate. Tar and truffle. Dried roses and old saddle leather. Firm tannins holding the line, dust and silence stretching across the finish. Sheriff “Dusty Old-Leather” Ginestra, Keeper of the Last Law , had arrived. Earlier that day, the Sheriff had already ridden into town once. Not with gold or glory, but with cake and orchids. The orchids claimed their place on the table. The cake waited patiently. Later, sent back out on a quiet errand to collect truffle fries, he had no idea what was brewing at home. The girls and I dressed at record speed, queued up the Ennio Morricone soundtrack, and staged ourselves dramatically in the living room, fully committed to the bit. So without further ado: cue the music, roll the credits, and let’s begin our edible Western! The Gouda, the Boar, and the Ugni - Starring- Gouda -"The Good" Dependable. Taciturn. Heroic. Smoked Gouda strolls onto the scene exactly like Clint Eastwood as Blondie: calm, confident, faintly smug because it knows everyone loves it. The smoke arrived first, then the assurance. Somewhere in the distance, a very serious whistle began. Blondie would be proud. Aged Gouda - The Hero of the Plate - Made by Alberta P ike in Innisfail, Alberta Boar - "The Bad" Wild. Cheeky. Slightly unhinged. Channeling Lee Van Cleef’s icy menace, the boar didn’t just bring flavour, it brought attitude. A villain you can’t help but root for. The casting felt especially right after a long-ago encounter in southern France, when a wild boar sprinted across the road and collided with our car. No injuries, just drama, and a lifelong respect for French wildlife with main-character energy. Angel Eyes would absolutely approve. Alberta Ground Wild Boar - The Rogue - form Urban Butcher , Calgary Ugni -"The Ugly" Messy. Loud. Unforgettable. Ugni Blanc may not sound glamorous, but it’s the grape behind Cognac . Folded into a mushroom sauce, Ugni-driven Cognac brought richness, heat, and unruly elegance. Just like Tuco, it got the last word. Pure Tuco energy. Cognac Sauce - The Underdog - Château Montifaud VSOP Cognac from Highlander Sheriff “Dusty Old-Leather” Ginestra 🍷 2008 Paolo Conterno Ginestra Barolo DOCG, Italy For balance, we needed gravitas. A wine that could stand its ground against smoke, fat, fungus, and theatrical excess without blinking. I strutted into our cellar like the heroine of a dusty frontier town channeling Claudia Cardinale in Once Upon a Time in the West —nothing fancy, just that calm, deadly-serious confidence of a woman with the kind of presence that makes the soundtrack start playing on its own. I scanned the shelves like I was sizing up outlaws in a saloon and huntin’ down a fistful of dollars. That’s when I spotted it: Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra 2008 , leaning on the shelf like a mysterious stranger in a long coat, absolutely begging to be part of the story. A 17-year-old bottle, thick with cellar dust, practically tipping its hat and saying: “Ma’am, I reckon Ah’m more than reeaady.” He stepped out of the saloon’s shadow in a dark-garnet coat catching the last stripe of sunset and you catch that unmistakable aura: mature, seasoned, and carved by the land itself. His presence carried the scent of worn leather, wild mountain herbs, and the deep earth of long-traveled trails, all wrapped around a steady, weathered heart. He’s in his middle-aged glory: warm, full-bodied, and built with the quiet strength of someone who’s seen enough trouble to know exactly when to stand tall. There’s a spark of spice, a vein of iron, and a mineral-edged grit that says this wine comes from tougher soil than most. Every move is slow, deliberate, and lingering, like a legend that’s only improved with time. Sorry, I got carried away! About the wine Paolo Conterno has been making wine in Monforte d’Alba since 1886, drawing from the prized Ginestra cru. These clay-rich, high-elevation vineyards and traditional long aging in large oak give the wine its structure, depth, and staying power. The 2008 Barolo Ginestra is classic Nebbiolo: elegant, powerful, and beautifully mature, with plenty of life ahead. Peak window: 2016–2028 (Yahoo! we're good!) Our Tasting Notes: After this long on the trail, the wine’s changed a bit. Tannins have mellowed from rough cowboys to well-mannered gentlemen holding the saloon door. Aromas of dried roses, forest floor, leather, tobacco, and truffle lead the way - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly in liquid form: elegance, grit, chaos, and a buried prize worth the trouble. On the palate, mature red fruit meets earthy, savoury swagger, finishing long, warm, and assured. A Barolo that knows exactly who it is, and doesn’t need to shout about it. The Barolo had crossed oceans and years for this moment. It asked only one thing of us: dinner. Wild Boar Burgers with Smoked Gouda & Cognac Mushrooms Yields: 4 burgers | Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 25–30 minutes Frankly,I didn’t choose boar only because it conveniently rhymes with "bad", though that certainly helped, but because it genuinely makes an excellent burger. It’s rich, flavourful, and surprisingly easy to find here in Alberta if you know a good butcher. (Hello Rockies! The land of wildlife and unexpectedly fancy meat options.) These homemade boar burgers pair that bold, slightly wild flavour with deeply savoury sautéed mushrooms. Because boar is usually leaner than standard grocery-store beef or pork, the cognac-laced mushrooms step in to add juiciness and depth, while smoked Gouda brings richness and helps everything stay tender. That said, the ground boar I got from my butcher was surprisingly well-marbled. In fact, there was enough leftover fat to fry potatoes the next day. And yet, somehow, the patties themselves stayed generous, tender, and beautifully juicy. For the patties: "The Boar" 460 g / 1 lb ground boar 5 g / 1 tsp salt 3–4 g / 1 tsp garlic powder 3–4 g / 1 tsp onion powder 1–2 g / ½ tsp ground black pepper Add everything to a medium mixing bowl and mix well Shape the mixture into four patties, about 115 g / 4 oz each Preheat your grill or pan to high heat. Once it’s properly blazing, grill the patties for about 3 minutes per side , don't forget to add the Gouda at the first turn! For the cognac mushrooms: "The Ugni" 40 g / 3 tbsp unsalted butter 15 ml / 1 tbsp olive oil, to prevent the butter from burning 250 g / about 2 cups fresh mushrooms, sliced (cremini, button, shiitake, or a mix) 1 medium shallot, diced 3-4 cloves garlic, minced 60 ml / ¼ cup cognac (well, OK if you're not playin' this same game, brandy or whiskey will do) Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste chopped fresh or dried herbs, such as parsley or tarragon (optional) Sauté the mushrooms: Melt 2 tablespoons of butter (and the olive oil) in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer and cook for 5–6 minutes, without stirring at first, until browned and tender. Don’t crowd the pan: mushrooms need space to brown, not steam. Cook in batches if necessary. Add shallot and garlic. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the diced shallot and minced garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes, until softened and fragrant. Add herbs, if using. Deglaze with cognac: Remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour in the cognac. Return the pan to the burner and let it simmer for 1–2 minutes, scraping up the browned bits. Allow it to reduce slightly as the alcohol cooks off. Optional flambé: For drama, ignite the cognac with a long match off the heat . Let the flames die down naturally before returning the pan to the stove. Season and finish: Stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter until melted and glossy. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add the fresh herbs just before serving. Assemble Your Burger 4 generous slices of smoked Gouda: “The Gouda” (laid onto the patties at the turn, where it melts like it was always meant to) 4 hamburger buns Fresh toppings & favourite condiments: lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, mustard, mayo, ketchup. Condiments lined up like the Magnificent Seven at the saloon bar. Toast the buns & prep the condiments Butter those buns like you’re greasing up a saddled horse at dawn, then toast them until they’re as golden as a frontier sunset. Mix up your condiment of choice: plain mayo, garlic mayo, or truffle mayo. We opted for gochujang mayo, which brings a little heat and the kind of confidence usually reserved for mysterious strangers with excellent taste. Next, prep your fresh toppings. Slice lettuce, pickles, onions, tomatoes. Think of them as the fresh, crisp counterbalance that keeps your hero burger from riding into town alone. Build the burger Plant the bottom bun down like a sheriff staking his claim. Spread on your sauce, then lay down your greens. Lower your Gouda-smothered patty onto the bun, heap on the sautéed mushrooms. Top with any final fixings, then cap it all with the top bun like the hat of a gunslinger who knows he just won the duel. Enjoy immediately , preferably with a double order of truffle-parmesan fries we sent my husband out to fetch nearby so we could get dressed and give the patties their final moment of glory. Squint. Swagger. Lean against the bar like you own the place and declare, "Yes, I made wild boar sliders with Cognac mushrooms. No, it wasn’t a big deal." Then disappear into the saloon haze. So how did our Anniversary Dinner go? The first whistle of Ennio Morricone hit the speakers, and my husband lit up like a man ambushed by a surprise western. From that moment on, resistance was futile. Drama became a moral obligation. Dinner itself was a proper frontier feast: Gouda doing its dependable, heroic thing; boar and Ugni burgers swaggering onto the plate like well-tailored outlaws; and a bottle of Barolo standing watch, solemn, noble, and deeply aware of its narrative importance. It did its duty. Dinner gave way to the couch. Blankets appeared. Belts loosened. All four of us collapsed like a ragtag posse after a long day on the trail and let an almost three-hour-long film carry us slowly into the sunset. Cue credits. Roll tumbleweed. Anniversary: successfully defended. Happy sipping and savouring!
- Chablis & Jambon Persillé in Aspic… or, as it’s known outside France, Good Old Leftover Christmas Ham in Jelly
👩🍳 - Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Chablis, that crisp, elegant, raised by monks, minerals, and a smug little breeze Chardonnay from the northernmost edge of Burgundy and Jambon Persillé form a pairing so perfect it feels like French has been quietly perfecting ham-and-wine science for centuries. Respect. Christmas Ham is a little tradition in our house. I usually make it on the 25th, once the Christmas Eve fish dishes have vanished and everyone is ready for something a bit heartier. And from that gloriously large pork butt roast, there are always leftovers. Which brings me to one of my quiet pleasures: serving them suspended in a delicate, shimmering jelly. Yes, gelatin, the same collagen everyone now buys in fancy jars and stirs into overpriced smoothies. Long before it became a"wellness trend," it was simply the logical, delicious way humans made use of the whole animal. Call me old-fashioned, but I adore a beautiful ham in aspic. It feels timeless, slightly nostalgic, and, if you ask me, absolutely perfect. A little clin d’œil (pardon my French, I meant a nod ) to my Hungarian upbringing: Kocsonya ( KOH-chohn-yah) , the proudly rustic, wonderfully wobbly cousin of fancy French jambon persillé . It may not have the elegant name, but trust me, it’s every bit as delicious. While the French suspend their ham in refined, parsley-speckled aspic, we Hungarians go straight for full-on, no-nonsense jelly glory. Head to toe pork trotters, ears, tails, skin, sometimes knuckles or ham hocks… if it makes good collagen, it’s invited to the party. Served cold in the heart of winter, often around Christmas, kocsonya is a beloved, deeply nostalgic dish for many Hungarians. I adore both versions, the chic French terrine and the wobbly Hungarian classic. (Even though certain members of my family, who will remain very diplomatically unnamed, absolutely hate it, and do so very loudly.) So. Jambon persillé is, at heart, just fancy ham trapped in parsley jelly , a terrine if you’re French, a mysterious wobbling meat brick if you’re not. It’s rich, savoury, faintly herbal, and unapologetically jiggly, the kind of dish that quivers slightly when you look at it too hard. Enter Chablis , which slices through all that porky richness like a crisp, lemony lightsaber , restoring balance to the universe. Traditionally, this dish belongs to Easter, not Christmas , a practical end-of-winter solution to the problem of “we still have a lot of salted ham.” The explosion of green parsley wasn’t just decorative; it symbolized spring’s return, fresh grass, new life, and the general relief that winter was finally over. These days, however, jambon persillé has escaped the calendar and is eaten year-round, because Burgundy wisely decided that waiting was unnecessary. Chablis remains its ride-or-die companion. The dish itself is seriously old : a centuries-old Burgundian specialty, most closely associated with the Côte d’Or and documented as early as the 14th century , back when jelly was a perfectly normal thing to suspend meat in and no one questioned it. Then comes the rebellious modern chapter . In the 20th century, a variation called Jambon à la Chablisienne appeared, which is basically the same ham, but cooked in wine, because the French refuse to let a good Chardonnay sit quietly in a glass. This richer dish loves a slightly older Chablis, preferably 3–5 years old and full of philosophical complexity. It’s credited to Charles Bergerand , descendant of a master saucier to King Louis-Philippe, which in France means the recipe arrives with impeccable pedigree, a flourish of the wrist, and at least one dramatic family anecdote. This version includes Chablis and crushed tomatoes, boldly proving that Burgundy can flirt with innovation… as long as it’s supervised, approved by history, and done very politely. The Chablis Wine Region Let’s clear something up right away: Chablis is Chardonnay. Chablis (pronounced Shah-blee ) is a world-famous white wine region tucked into the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, France , where grapes grow with a cardigan permanently on. The result? Wines of startling purity, high acidity, and that famously "steely" minerality that makes sommeliers sigh happily and seafood feel emotionally complete. The wines here are made exclusively from 100% Chardonnay , yet they taste nothing like the buttery, oak-heavy versions many people associate with the grape. Instead, Chablis is prized for its purity, high acidity, and unmistakable “steely” minerality. The Chardonnay Plot Twist If your experience with Chardonnay involves words like buttery , toasty , or vanilla bomb , Chablis is here to quietly judge that experience, then offer you a lemon slice and a mineral snap instead. While many Chardonnays are aged in oak and lean rich and creamy, Chablis is usually fermented in stainless steel , preserving crisp fruit and razor-sharp freshness. Think: Green apple Lemon zest White flowers Wet stones after rain Oyster shells (yes, that’s a thing, and yes, it’s delightful) It finishes clean, long, and slightly tingly, like your tongue just walked past the sea. The Four Levels of Chablis (A Very Polite Hierarchy) Like all good French things, Chablis comes with a ranking system: Petit Chablis The lightest and freshest style—bright, easy, and meant to be enjoyed young. Often grown on higher plateaus with different soils. Think aperitif energy. Chablis (AOC) The classic, everyday Chablis: balanced, mineral, and unmistakably itself. Chablis Premier Cru From 40 specific vineyard sites/"climats" with better sun exposure. More concentration, more depth! Chablis Grand Cru The pinnacle. One sun-drenched slope. Seven legendary climats ( Les Clos, Bougros, Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Blanchot ). Often sees oak, ages beautifully for 10–15+ years , and makes collectors weak at the knees. Terroir: Because Rocks Matter Chablis owes its distinctive personality to its soils: a complex mix of limestone, marl, and fossilized oyster shells. In a very real sense, this is wine made from sunshine filtered through prehistoric seabeds. That soil story shifts depending on the appellation. Petit Chablis comes from higher, wind-swept plateaus with younger Portlandian limestone , producing wines that are light, crisp, and straightforward. Chablis AOC covers a wider range of sites, many of them rooted in Kimmeridgian soils , which give the wines their classic balance of freshness and minerality. At the top, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, firmly anchored in Kimmeridgian limestone, deliver the greatest depth, complexity, and aging potential. This is why Chablis tastes like somewhere , not just something. What to Eat With It (Short Answer: Yes) Thanks to its high acidity and saline edge, Chablis is the undisputed champion of oysters . But it’s equally brilliant with: Scallops, shrimp, lobster Roast chicken (especially with herbs or cream) Goat cheese, Comté, Beaufort Sushi and light Asian dishes And, naturally, jambon persillé , where it cuts through richness like a lemony lightsaber. Jambon persillé: Young Chablis. Chic, crisp, does all the heavy lifting. Jambon à la Chablisienne: Older Chablis. More depth, more drama. Chablis also loves: seafood, escargots, charcuterie, poultry, light cheeses, basically everything except your New Year’s resolutions. In summary: If dinner is pale, cold, or wobbling slightly… Chablis will make it feel intentional. Chablis is Chardonnay stripped of makeup, oak, and drama. Left alone with its place, its climate, and its rocks. It’s elegant without trying, refreshing without being simple, and endlessly food-friendly. And best of all?It regularly converts I don’t like Chardonnay -people, often without them even realizing it. Which is, frankly, the most French move of all. We went with a bottle of Chablis “La Pierrelée” , a classic, no-nonsense Chablis from La Chablisienne , the highly respected cooperative founded in 1923. Made from 100% Chardonnay, it’s fresh, mineral, and unmistakably Chablis: bright citrus, green apple, a touch of white peach, and that salty, flinty finish that tastes like it grew up on rocks (because it did). “Pierrelée” literally means stony —a nod to the region’s famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils, packed with ancient oyster shells and responsible for that crisp, sea-breeze character. This was the bottle I found quietly waiting in the cellar: not flashy, not grand cru, not demanding reverence. Also, I wasn’t emotionally ready to open the more prestigious ones anyway. La Pierrelée is elegant but approachable, the kind of Chablis that works beautifully as an aperitif or with all of the dishes mentioned above, and of course, jambon persillé , without making you feel like you should be taking notes. It has the soul of Chablis, without the drama. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you want. Jambon Persillé SERVINGS 6 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 3 hour | Cooling: 6 hours Ingredients 1 kg / 2.2 lb smoked pork shoulder or ham 1 naturally gelatin-rich pork cut (pig’s foot, but let’s keep that detail off the menu for those too sensible) For the Aspic, if the pig’s trotter isn’t used: 2-3 packets of unflavoured gelatine (about 20 g) 1 litre / 4¼ cups / 34 fl oz water 500 ml / 2 cups / 17 fl oz dry white wine Salt, to taste 1 medium onion 2 garlic cloves 1 leek (optional) 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley stems) 10-12 black peppercorns small splash of white wine vinegar 1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 1½–2 cups) Method Place the ham hock (and the pig’s trotter, if using) in a large, heavy-bottomed pot and cover with cold water. Bring slowly to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and add onion, leek, garlic, bouquet garni, and peppercorns. Season lightly with salt, keeping in mind that the ham will release its own salinity. Simmer for 2 to 3 hours , until the meat is meltingly tender and easily pulls away from the bone. Remove the ham hock and trotter from the pot and set aside to cool slightly. Strain the cooking liquid, discarding the vegetables and aromatics. If a pig’s trotter was used, allow the strained broth to cool; it should naturally begin to set. For a clearer finish, strain once more through fine cheesecloth. If no trotter was used, let the broth cool slightly, then dissolve the gelatin according to the package instructions and stir it into the warm liquid. Once the meat is cool enough to handle, shred or cut it into bite-sized pieces, removing excess fat or gristle. Finely chop the parsley and fold it evenly through the meat. If desired, add a small splash of white wine vinegar to lift the flavours. Spoon a layer of the ham and parsley mixture into a terrine or loaf mold and ladle over just enough broth to cover. Repeat the layering until the mold is filled, finishing with a final layer of broth to bind everything together. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least six hours , preferably overnight, until fully set. To serve, run a knife around the edges of the mold and gently unmold the terrine onto a platter. Slice and serve chilled. Serve it chilled, with some green salad, pickles/cornichons, dijon mustard, and crusty baguette. Happy sipping and savouring!
- The Rioja Cure for Cabin Fever
Rioja, Cheese, and the Art of Ignoring Canadian Winter So Calgary has been officially buried under snow since early December, and at some point—somewhere between shovelling the driveway and attempting to liberate my mail from its frozen postal tomb—I began to wonder what, exactly, could spark a glimmer of joy in this frosty tundra. Then the answer appeared—not dramatically, but sensibly. A small, civilised countermeasure to winter: a Spanish Rioja tasting, paired with cheese. Call it The Rioja Cure for Cabin Fever , or, if you prefer a gentler euphemism, a winter gathering featuring abundant snow, abundant Tempranillo, abundant cheese, and a frankly heroic level of seasonal denial. And because I am both a committed wine enthusiast and a person with absolutely no chill, the tasting naturally demanded all four traditional ages of Rioja . Joven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva. Yes, the full Tempranillo metamorphosis, from youthful exuberance to dignified retirement. A complete Spanish life cycle in four glasses, designed to make the tundra outside feel almost… celebratory. Naturally, the cheeses had to rise to the occasion. If we were going to discuss maturation, character development, and the occasional noble wrinkle, it seemed only fair that wine not carry the burden alone. And so the plan evolved into a Rioja-and-cheese soirée, the kind of cozy, indulgent ritual that feels perfectly tailored to December in Calgary. After all, what better way to outwit winter than with a bottle, a cheese board, and the warm, smug satisfaction of refusing to engage with the weather at all? Since four bottles is… objectively ambitious for two people, even with sturdy Canadian winter morale, we invited some friends over—strictly in the name of responsible consumption, naturally. Plus, nothing brings people out of hibernation faster than the promise of cheese and the illusion of Spain. They arrived bundled like Arctic explorers, stomping off snow and shaking their heads at our collective life choices. But once everyone thawed out by the fire, Rioja in hand, the whole evening took on that magical Calgary winter coping mechanism glow. We laid out the cheeses—sheep’s milk, cow’s milk, soft cheese, hard cheese, mild cheese, stinky cheese—and matched them to each Rioja age like we were judging an international competition. Somewhere around the second bottle, we became philosophers. Around the third, poets. By the fourth, true believers in the transcendent power of Spanish wine as a winter survival strategy. And honestly? For a night, Calgary’s blizzard didn’t feel like a curse. It felt like a reason to gather, pour generously, and pretend we were in a candlelit bodega instead of a snow-buried Canadian suburb. A 10/10 will repeat next cold front. Let's talk about Spanish wine Spanish wine has been enjoying a graceful renaissance since the mid-1970s, as the country entered a brighter, more open era and its vineyards quietly prepared for their own revival. With expanding economic opportunities and Spain’s entry into the European Union in 1986, winemakers began refining their craft with renewed purpose. By the 1990s, this transformation had gathered remarkable momentum—and today, Spanish wine continues its ascent with the kind of confidence and charm that feels almost legendary, touched with just a hint of playful swagger. Rioja 101 Rioja is basically Spain’s wine royalty—first in line for fancy titles, adored by the masses, and aging way more gracefully than I manage on my best days. Perched along the Ebro River in North Central Spain, it was the very first region to snag the prestigious DOCa status , Spain’s top-tier wine accolade. Sure, Rioja is famous for its Tempranillo-driven reds—the oaky, leathery heartthrobs we can’t help swooning over—but it also dabbles in whites, rosés, and even sparkling wines. I still remember back in the late 1990s, navigating life as a hopeful but very poor Eastern European student living in a wealthy and very expensive Western European country. With limited funds, my friends and I enjoyed our moments over humble but delightful table wines, usually found in 1-liter bottles priced between $2 and $4. Oh, and when we splurged on Rioja, it felt like a celebration, costing just under $10! At that time, Rioja was just starting to make a name for itself in the European and international markets and was still surprisingly affordable, standing out from the everyday wines we usually enjoyed. Looking back, I feel incredibly fortunate to have savoured Rioja during its rise, not yet a fixture in upscale cellars or prominent on high-end restaurant menus. This experience not only shaped my palate but also taught me to appreciate the journey of great wines. It's exciting to see how far they’ve come since then, and I can't help but feel a sense of nostalgia and joy reflecting on those wonderful days. The regions: The Rioja wine region is split into three sub-zones, each with its own climate, soil, and very distinct personality. Rioja Alta – Cool, classy, and a little high-altitude snobby. Elegant structure, bright acidity, and the kind of aging potential that would make a Bordeaux blush. Rioja Alavesa – Similar vibe to Alta but fuller-bodied, with a bit of Basque swagger. Basically Alta’s more confident sibling. Rioja Oriental – Warm, sunny, Mediterranean, and unapologetically ripe. Big fruit, bigger charm, occasionally bigger alcohol. Now the grapes: Tempranillo – El Super Estrella! Dominant, versatile, and truly the reason this entire party exists. Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo – The backup singers who actually make the music better: fruit, spice, structure, drama. Viura – The main white grape, crisp and citrusy, and criminally underrated. Rioja DOCa is celebrated worldwide as one of Spain’s premier wine regions, often mentioned—sometimes over tapas, sometimes in the hushed chill of a cellar—alongside storied heavyweights like Bordeaux and Burgundy. While Bordeaux and Burgundy are revered for their precise terroir expression, meticulous vineyard practices, and single-minded stylistic focus, Rioja offers its own compelling allure: a rich expression of Spanish terroir, remarkable versatility, and excellent value, making wines that are both sophisticated and approachable. Steeped in centuries of tradition, Rioja thrives on the global stage by seamlessly blending long-aging, classical techniques—hello, López de Heredia of Viña Tondonia—with modern, fruit-forward innovation. The result is a wine culture that honours history while embracing creativity, producing wines that are expressive, versatile, and endlessly engaging for both seasoned connoisseurs and curious newcomers alike. Part of what makes Rioja so distinctive is its structured aging system for red wine s, divided into four main categories: Genérico / Joven (little to no oak aging), Crianza ( minimum of 2 years, with at least 1 year spent in oak barrels ), Reserva ( minimum of 3 years, with at least 1 year in oak barrels and at least 6 months in the bottle ), Gran Reserva ( a minimum of 5 years, with at least 2 years in oak barrels and 2 years in the bottle ). Experimenting with cheese alongside Rioja red wines of every aging class is basically a delicious science experiment — and luckily, the only wrong answer is “not enough cheese.” As Rioja evolves from joven to gran reserva, its flavours deepen, soften, stretch out, and generally glow-up, creating fascinating (and sometimes surprising) pairings with everything from mellow manchego to funky, cave-aged wedges. As a handy rule of thumb: older wines get along best with older cheeses. Rioja's coming-of-age story, and we’re tasting every chapter I knew, of course, that finding all the differently aged Riojas would be the easy part. The real challenge was always going to be the cheese. So I did the only sensible thing: I began by provisioning the Rioja family , neatly assembled and ready for their grand tasting debut. Note: No need to panic. These bottles are all available in Alberta, but any respectable Rioja will do—Rioja doesn’t really do “bad.” Just follow the chart if you’d like to retrace my snowbound footsteps and try the full Rioja aging arc with cheeses. Genérico/ Joven The Flirt - bright, spontaneous, zero oak baggage Señorío de Librares Joven 2023 Think of this as Rioja’s fun, hyper-social younger cousin—fresh, fruity, and absolutely unbothered by the concept of oak barrels. Made by the Espinosa sisters using organic, low-intervention magic, it bursts with juicy cherry, wild berries, a flirt of violets, and the kind of bright acidity that convinces you to pour a second glass before finishing the first. Medium-bodied, smooth, and proudly Tempranillo-forward, it’s the perfect “I want something delicious, not complicated” wine, a Rioja in its sneakers instead of its dress shoes. 🧀 Top Cheese Matches Young & Mild Cheeses: Soft goat cheese, young Manchego—anything sweet, innocent, and not yet burdened by the weight of responsibility. Semi-Cured Cheeses: These are the wine’s natural besties. A little salty, a little mature, but still fun at parties. Together they form a beautifully balanced, mildly chaotic duo. Blue Cheeses: Shockingly, the producers claim this fresh-faced wine can stare down a blue cheese without flinching. Consider this pairing the “beauty & the beast” moment of your tasting. Aged Cheeses (handle with care): These big, intense, philosophical cheeses usually prefer serious, brooding wines. But if you pick one that’s not too dramatic, the Joven can pull off a surprisingly cute opposites-attract situation. In summary: This lively little Rioja basically shows up to your cheese board wearing sunglasses and saying, “Don’t worry, I vibe with everyone” from baby cheeses to semi-cured classics—and can even charm a mild blue on a good day. Crianza The Sophisticated Drama Queen - polished, expressive, just enough oak to make a point Bodegas LAN Crianza 2021 A polished, award-winning Tempranillo that spends a year in both French and American oak—because refinement is best done bilingually. Expect poised red-berry aromas with hints of vanilla and cinnamon, followed by a velvety, medium-bodied palate that ends in a confidently lingering finish. LAN Crianza absolutely loves hanging out with cheese—especially the firm, salty, mature types. Think of it as that one friend who only dates people with “excellent aging potential.” 🧀 Top Cheese Matches Aged Manchego: The official, government-approved, born-in-the-same-region soulmate. The French: Comté, Morbier, Mimolette and Southwest French Hard Sheep Cheeses, Crottin de Chavignol The Swiss: Emmental, Gruyère The Italian: Fontina Any Smoked Cheese Any Aged Cheddar Aged Gouda In summary: LAN Crianza pairs best with cheeses that have grown into themselves—confident, structured, and just a little opinionated. Reserva The Quiet Power Player- composed, layered, effortlessly commanding Marques de Murrieta Reserva 2021 A refined, Tempranillo-led Rioja that somehow manages to be elegant, structured, and charming without showing off—though its critics’ scores suggest it absolutely could . Expect cherries, plums, cedar, spices, and the occasional cameo of “powdered earth,” whatever that means, delivered with silky tannins and impeccable balance. The Marqués de Murrieta Reserva 2021 is a well-dressed Rioja with standards. It pairs best with hard, aged cheeses—anything less serious need not apply. 🧀 Top Cheese Matches Manchego: The obvious best friend. The French: Mature Brie/Camembert: the creamy, earthy notes of a bloomy-rind cheese with some age can find a perfect partner in a Reserva, and Aged Goat Cheese (e.g., from Loire) The Swiss: Gruyère and Emmental The Italian: Parmigiano-Reggiano Aged Cheddar Aged Gouda In summary: Murrieta Reserva brings acidity, tannins, leather, spice, and dark fruit—basically the whole personality résumé. Hard cheeses counterbalance all that structure with fat, richness, and salty swagger. Everyone wins. Gran Reserva The Untouchable Icon - serene, complex, and entirely above the noise Marques De Riscal Rioja Gran Reserva 2018 A Very Fancy Power Couple Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 2018 is rich, smooth, elegant, and just a tiny bit dramatic—plum, herbs, cocoa, oak spice, the whole Tempranillo opera. Naturally, it demands cheeses with dignity, maturity, and at least a decade of emotional stability. 🧀 Top Cheese Matches Aged Manchego: The classic Spanish pairing. Idiazabal: a hard sheep's milk cheese from the Basque and Navarre regions is buttery, firm, and slightly smoky. Any other mature hard Spanish cheese The French: Comté, Morbier ( aged, hard cheeses) and Epoisses, Livarot, or Maroilles (bold yet soft, washed-rind cheeses) The Italians: Aged Pecorino, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, Aged Asiago In Summary: A glamorous Rioja diva who only dates cheeses with backbone—preferably aged, salty, and sophisticated enough to keep up with all that Tempranillo drama. Other Foods That Make Rioja Feel Fancy – Put These on the Cheese Board! Cured ham ( jamón ): Because Rioja simply demands a partner with equal elegance. Spanish Marcona almonds (or any almonds and nuts) Olives (Manzanilla or Arbequina): Briny little gems that highlight Rioja’s savoury nuances. Membrillo quince paste: Classic Spanish pairing; their sweetness goes beautifully with aged reds. Roasted red peppers or piquillo peppers: Smoky, tender, and a touch indulgent. Dried figs or apricots: Soft, sweet, and chewy, perfect for echoing the wine’s fruit-forward charm. Where to Hunt and Gather Your Fromage in Calgary This is where reality contributed its own plot twist. The Spanish cheese selection in my town is—how shall we say—enthusiastically intended, modestly delivered. Manchego? Certainly. Manchego again? Without hesitation. Manchego wearing a slightly altered label? Sí! Anything beyond that? Now you’re just being whimsical. Well, Manchego, protected by a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, is the iconic Spanish sheep’s milk cheese from La Mancha, the land of windmills, Don Quixote, and dairy with opinions. It’s buttery, nutty, a little sharp, and proudly wears its signature herringbone-patterned rind like a finely woven sheep sweater. Perfect with jamón, olives, almonds, or just eaten over the sink while pretending to host a tapas night. The Ages of Manchego (Are we still talking about ageing, maturation, and wrinkles? Yes. Yes, we are.) Semicurado: Young, soft-ish, and friendly. Curado: Mature, nutty, and starting to develop opinions. Viejo: Hard, crumbly, intense—basically the cheese equivalent of a wise old shepherd who’s seen some things. Realizing that the classic pairings weren’t going to happen with Spanish cheeses alone, I took matters into my own (very insulated) mittens. I embarked on a cross-city cheese quest armed with determination, sturdy winter boots, and an arguably unreasonable longing for dairy-induced joy. I returned triumphant with an international delegation of cheeses: French, Swiss, Italian, Canadian, and yes, a few Spanish representatives so they wouldn’t feel diplomatically snubbed. And now the stage is set: four Riojas, a global cheese summit, and some deeply appreciative Calgarians doing their best to forget that winter! Calgary’s Holy Trinity of Cheese Shops (+ One Very Worthy Apostle) A refined, slightly cheeky guide to the city’s finest fromage temples. Peasant Cheese – Mission 📍 Mission (2206 4 St SW) and Kensington ( 1249 Kensington Rd NW) The Mission boutique exudes old-world charm—the kind of place where time moves slowly and every cheese has a lineage. The mongers are quietly brilliant, guiding you through their 120+ impeccably kept selections with the calm authority of people who truly understand lactose on a spiritual level. Cuts are made to order, naturally, and the supporting cast—charcuterie, preserves, and fresh bread—feels curated for those who still believe in the art of grazing. Peasant Cheese is my personal holy ground—the place I disappear into whenever I need something wonderful (or dangerously stinky). Crystal, the mastermind behind the counter, and her brilliant team somehow always know exactly what cheese I meant to ask for. They’re the reason my fridge is consistently more cultured than I am. Say Cheese Fromagerie Inc. 📍 Crossroads Market Inside the lively Crossroads Market sits this stylish little treasure trove—unpretentious yet impressively stocked, a place where connoisseurs and curious wanderers are equally welcome. The team is warm, knowledgeable, and delightfully willing to let you taste your way into trouble. The selection spans regions and styles with the confidence of a shop that knows great cheese needs no grandstanding. I personally ravage the “discounted” cheese aisle on a regular basis—because there’s no such thing as expired cheese, only cheese with… character. Springbank Cheese Co. 📍 Aspen Landing | Crowfoot | Willow Park Village A Calgary institution with all the gravitas of a grand cheese hall. With more than 400 varieties sourced from near and far, Springbank is the city’s undisputed powerhouse of dairy abundance. Staff are generous with samples and pairing suggestions delivered with the easy charm of people who’ve guided many a shopper into blissful excess. The Apostle of Cheese: Luc’s European Meats, Cheese & Eats 📍 Calgary Farmers Market (West and South locations) | Red Deer + seasonal markets! Luc’s brings over 100 exceptional cheeses to the table, from classic European heavyweights (hello, Swiss imports) to beautifully crafted Alberta favourites. It’s equal parts deli, European corner shop, and cheese-lover playground. If Calgary’s Holy Trinity had a fourth seat, Luc’s would absolutely be sitting there, swirling a glass and munching on some good old cheese and charcuterie. And Now… Calgary’s Supermarket Cheese Saints Because sometimes enlightenment comes in the dairy aisle. Italian Centre Shop! - my weekly pilgrimage site The Italian Centre Shop isn’t a “supermarket” in the big-box sense—it’s an old-school European deli–grocery hybrid, the kind of place where the deli counter alone could reduce a fully grown foodie to tears. 📍 9919 Fairmount Dr SE - my home base, but there are several others across Calgary and beyond . It’s a reliable haven for Italian staples, excellent charcuterie, olives in alarming abundance, and a treasure trove of Spanish preserved delights—plus the kind of impulse buys you absolutely did not plan on but now cannot live without. (Yes, they even carry membrillo quince paste—see above.) The whole place feels like a loud, lovingly chaotic, family-run Italian marketplace, perpetually on the brink of something delicious. And the cheese selection? They offer more than 300 varieties from over 20 countries, presided over by deli staff who cheerfully insist you sample everything. Expect Italian royalty, European classics, local heroes, and a few delightful wildcards (truffle cheese, port wine derby, the smoky ones, and the unsung Eastern European gems). Lina's And then there’s Lina’s—with several franchise-style locations across the city—bringing a more intimate, curated, old-world-deli energy to the Italian-shop scene. The cheese case is smaller than the sprawling empire of the Italian Centre Shop, but still wonderfully strong: classic Italian wheels, firm European favourites, and the occasional seasonal treasure. It’s less “continental marketplace,” more “delicatessen poetry”—a cozy little pocket of old-world Europe right here in Calgary. Now the "real chains" Save-On-Foods A surprisingly civilized cheese situation. Their European case often includes nicely aged Spanish sheep’s milk cheeses, decent Comté, and French crowd-pleasers like Brie, chèvre logs, and the occasional stinky delight if you’re lucky. It’s basically a budget-friendly shortcut to looking like you “curated” something on purpose. Also: my favourite supermarket on all fronts, for what it’s worth. Real Canadian Superstore Expect solid staples like Manchego, Ibérico, and a respectable trio of Swiss classics (Gruyère, Emmental, and Appenzeller). Their French section reliably yields usable Brie and Camembert—not life-changing, but perfectly capable of elevating a Tuesday. Co-op Often has a solid selection of basic European cheeses (Manchego, Gruyère, Emmental, Brie), plus some local cheese makers and seasonal specials. Safeway Their specialty cheese case usually includes a variety of domestic and imported options — especially basic aged cheddars, Swiss-style wheels, and sometimes Spanish and Italian imports. Costco I don’t shop at Costco these days, but I know they carry a surprisingly good lineup of reasonably priced imports—think Manchego, Gruyère, and chèvre. The Verdict: A Few Clear Winners in the Snow-Day Rioja & Cheese Showdown After four bottles, a global delegation of cheeses, and enough Tempranillo-induced enlightenment to make even a medieval mystic nod approvingly, a few favourites rose decisively to the top. (I swear I’m not playing favourites with goat cheese today. The cows deserve their turn to shine, and I’m behaving accordingly.) Joven + Grey Owl = The Canadian Twist "A Surprisingly Perfect Cross-continent Friendship" Grey Owl - a succulent goat’s cheese, my favourite Canadian cheese from Quebec, once a staple of specialty shops and lately frustratingly scarce - this particular wedge was "smuggled in" from QC. Pairing it with a Joven is basically fruity optimism colliding with gothic dairy, and discovering they’re soulmates. The wine brings bright cherry, raspberry, and spice; the cheese adds creamy, lightly funky tang. Tastes like: Rioja berries making fresh tracks across cold, tangy goat-milk slopes. Crianza + Pecorino = The Italian Job "The Perfect Heist" This pairing doesn’t fall in love — it commits a very organized crime. Crianza, with its bright red fruit and gentle oak, works the room like a professional distraction: charming, smooth, asking just enough questions. Meanwhile, Pecorino Romano from Rome itself slips in as a hardened alleyway bandit, all hard sheep’s milk, sharp edges, and aggressively salty opinions, wearing the kind of poker face only centuries of successful crimes can teach. By the time anyone notices, the vault is empty and the cheese is gone, melting back into the cobblestones. They shouldn’t work together… which is exactly why they do. Tastes like: a perfectly executed caper where the wine is innocent, the cheese is guilty, and no one dares file a report. Reserva + Gruyère = The Swiss Classic "The Most Neutral Yet Perfectly Balanced Alliance” Reserva’s polished acidity and warm spice slot neatly into the caramel-nut richness of Alpine Gruyère with clockwork precision. Nothing clashes, nothing rushes, and everything knows exactly where it belongs. The pairing is refined, balanced, and calmly confident—the kind of harmony that doesn’t need to announce itself. Tastes like: a chalet-side aperitif where the fire is perfectly calibrated, the cheese has impeccable credentials, and everyone owns very expensive sweaters and absolutely no chaos. Gran Reserva + Manchego Curado = ¡Viva España! “The Destiny Duo” A pairing so natural it feels preordained. The Gran Reserva’s silky tobacco-and-spice depth wraps itself around the nutty, slightly assertive Manchego Curado like a prodigal hero returning home after a long pilgrimage through oak barrels, sun, and good decisions. Everything clicks: sheep, Tempranillo, time, and terroir in perfect agreement. Tastes like: Spain congratulating itself, pouring another glass, and reminding the rest of us—politely, but firmly—that this is what patience and pride taste like. The Takeaway? A blizzard outside, a fire inside, four ages of Rioja, a parade of cheeses, and a few triumphant Calgarians discovering that winter is far more tolerable when you emotionally outsource everything to Tempranillo and milk. If the weather insists on drama, at least let the wine deliver the happy ending! Happy sipping and savouring!
- Savouring Sicily: Nero d'Avola from Noto and Eggplant Parmigiana
👩🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. The Bold Elegance of Nero d'Avola Nero d'Avola is a versatile, full-bodied red wine grape and is considered Sicily's most important indigenous red variety. Its style can vary from a lighter, fruit-forward expression to a more powerful, dark fruit-driven one, depending on the winemaking process. Whether you're in the mood for a lively party or a cozy night in, this grape has you covered. Dive into the delicious drama of Nero d'Avola and let your taste buds be entertained! Known for its sweet tannins, dark fruit flavors, and medium to high acidity. Depending on the style, Nero d'Avola can exhibit aromas of black cherry, plum, blackberry, and raspberry. Some wines may also have savoury notes of liquorice, tobacco, coffee, and spice. Brrr! The flavour profile of Nero d'Avola makes it an excellent match for a variety of foods: Meat : It pairs well with grilled or roasted meats, hearty stews, lamb, and duck. Pizza and Pasta : Nero d'Avola is known as a great "pizza wine" and pairs wonderfully with rich, creamy tomato sauces, meat ragu pasta dishes, or a meat-lover's pizza. Vegetarian Dishes : For vegetarian options, it complements black lentils, shiitake mushrooms, or eggplant parmigiana. Cheese : Choose sharp, aged cheeses that can stand up to the bold flavours of the wine. Let’s discuss the wine we’ve chosen: Mazzei Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC, 2020 Producer Website I’ve discovered a Nero d'Avola that achieves that elusive "perfect balance" without straining your wallet—who doesn’t appreciate a great wine that’s budget-friendly? While there are cheaper and more expensive options available, you can enjoy something that is comfortably priced in the mid-range. It’s a win-win! Established in 2003 in the picturesque Noto region of Sicily, the Zisola winery is a proud endeavor of the Mazzei family, who have a rich heritage in Tuscan winemaking. This winery embodies the family's passion for quality, showcasing the unique terroir of Sicily through its carefully crafted wines. Zisola is meticulously crafted from traditional "Alberello" (bushy) vines that thrive in the breathtaking landscape near Noto, an area celebrated for its extraordinary beauty - you can read my post about Noto here . The wine benefits from the proximity of the sparkling sea and the mineral-rich limestone soil, which work together to beautifully balance the natural exuberance of the Nero d'Avola grape with a vibrant freshness. This elegantly structured wine reveals a captivating bouquet of ripe forest fruits, intertwined with the zesty essence of sunny orange peel. The result is a complex and harmonious flavour profile that lingers on the palate, providing a long and satisfying finish. The bright ruby red wine is celebrated for its balanced, fruit-forward flavour profile and elegant structure. Expect prominent notes of ripe dark fruits such as black cherry, plum, and berries. This vintage also reveal complex hints of numerous flowers and fresh herbs, including sage and Sicilian rosemary, complement the plummy fruit and lead to a savory long and layered finish. It is light, smooth, and tannic. The wine is aged for 10 months in small French oak barrels, with some of the barrels being new. Pairing choice The Mazzei Zisola Sicilia Noto Rosso DOC 2020 is like the perfect wingman for Eggplant Parmigiana—it knows just how to accentuate the flavors without stealing the spotlight. With its rich, savory notes and a balanced acidity, it dances beautifully with the tomato, cheese, and eggplant like they’re at a well-choreographed Sicilian t arantella dance p arty. This wine doesn’t just cut through the richness of the parmigiana; it practically slices it a new one! And with soft tannins and a medium body, it cozies up to the creamy cheese and earthy eggplant like their old friends sharing stories over a glass of good wine. Cheers to a delightful pairing! Eggplant Parmigiana Servings: 4 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 1 hours Course: Appetizer, Main, Vegetarian Parmigiana di Melanzane, or Eggplant Parmigiana, or as I like to call it, "Eggplant's glorious Renaissance," is the crown jewel of Italian comfort food! It's like a pasta-less vegetarian lasagna! Picture delightful layers of fried or health-conscious roasted eggplant, harmonizing with a luscious tomato sauce, melting mozzarella, and exquisite Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It’s like a warm Italian family gathering, where everyone is welcomed with open arms, and joyful plates guarantee no one departs hungry! Now, let’s dive into the origin drama that would put any soap opera to shame. Campania, Sicily, and Emilia-Romagna are in a heated debate over who gets to claim this cheesy masterpiece. Naples might have thrown the first party with a published recipe way back in 1837, but many believe the name comes from the Sicilian word "parmiciana," which sums up the dish's layered look and its ability to inspire a passionate love (or at least a temporary obsession) with eggplants! So, every bite of this dish is like biting into a slice of Italian history - it’s a cheesy, tomato-saucy hug for your taste buds! To truly elevate your Sicilian (idc, I claim it for Sicily) Eggplant Parmigiana, enjoy it with a delightful Sicilian red like Nero d'Avola, which beautifully enhances its rich flavours. For a refreshing twist, consider a crisp high-acidity white such as Etna Bianco or Vermentino, or even a lively Prosecco. Cheers to a wonderful dining experience! Ingredients: 1 kg eggplant – about 4, sliced lengthways 8mm (1/4")-thick slices with skin on 2 tbsp coarse salt 3-4 tbsp olive oil for brushing 700 ml tomato puree, 100% tomato, no flavourings 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion , finely diced 3 garlic cloves, finely minced 1 tbsp fresh basil , finely chopped 3/4 tsp salt 1/4 tsp black pepper 250 g mozzarella, shredded 100 g Parmigiano Reggiano, finely grated Instructions: Preheat the oven to 180°C /350°F. Prepare the Eggplants: Wash and slice the eggplants, then place them in a bowl with a little coarse salt. Allow the eggplants to rest for a while so that some of their moisture can drain. Afterward, remove them from the bowl and shake off any excess salt. Fry/Grill the Eggplants: Start by heating some olive or avocado oil in a frying pan. When it’s nice and hot, fry the eggplants until they’re wonderfully golden and crispy. For a healthier twist, try grilling them outdoors or indoors, or bake the eggplants on a baking sheet with a drizzle of olive oil. Make the Tomato Sauce : In a saucepan, combine some oil and minced garlic and onion. Heat until the garlic becomes fragrant, then add tomato puree, salt and pepper. Cook the sauce for 10 minutes, then stir in fresh basil and continue to cook for another 5 minutes. Assemble the Dish : Cut the mozzarella cheese into small cubes and pat them dry with paper towels to remove excess moisture. Layer the Ingredients : Coat the bottom of a baking dish with a layer of tomato sauce. Add a layer of the fried eggplants, followed by more tomato sauce. Sprinkle a generous amount of grated Parmesan cheese on top, then add the mozzarella cubes. Repeat this layering process until all ingredients are used, finishing with a layer of tomato sauce and cheese. Bake : Bake the eggplant parmigiana for about 30 minutes in the preheated oven, or until it is golden brown on top. Serve : Remove the eggplant parmigiana from the oven and allow it to cool for a few minutes before slicing and serving. Variations and Tips : - You can use a pre-made perfect tomato sauce if you prefer. - I often make a Mornay sauce , which is essentially a béchamel sauce with cheese, and I add this between the layers and on top of the dish to make it even more unctuous. - Adding fresh basil leaves between each layer can enhance the flavor. - Be cautious with the salt, as the eggplant will already be salted at the beginning. Storage : The eggplant parmigiana will keep in the refrigerator for up to two days. You can also freeze it either raw or cooked. Happy sipping and savouring!
- In Search of Lost Time: Amaretto Madeleines alla Romana
Liquor : Digestif 👩🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. In 1997, I truly grasped the meaning of the saying, All roads lead to Rome , when my younger sister and I decided to exchange our Hungarian Christmas traditions for a dose of holiday magic in the captivating Italian capital. Just a night-time train ride away from Switzerland, where we were both living at the time, we embarked on this adventure. As an art history and archaeology student, I was particularly excited to immerse myself in Rome's wealth of artistic treasures. To be honest, I may have gotten a bit carried away with the cultural experiences during our few days there, so much so that by the third day, my sister teared up by the banks of the Tiber! It turns out that the overwhelming beauty of the sights and sensations can turn a sister into a very emotional tourist. On Christmas Eve, we found ourselves in a corner store where we decided to buy a large bottle of Amaretto liqueur. After all, as the saying goes, when in Rome, do as the Romans do , so why not embrace our inner Italian? Given our limited understanding of Italian culture at the time, it seemed like a fantastic idea, especially after days filled with exploration and a cocktail of homesickness and fatigue. Plus, let's be honest, we had become quite the magnets for Italian boys. Picture us as a slightly less glamorous version of Swedish actress Anita Ekberg, being pursued by Marcello Mastroianni while splashing around in the Trevi Fountain. Every glance from a charming local felt like a nod to our own version of La Dolce Vita ! In retrospect, it all makes perfect sense, especially after discovering through genetic testing that we have significant Scandinavian ancestry as well! As we started sipping the Amaretto right there on the street, I felt like I had crossed the Rubicon and reached a point of no return. To put it mildly, I overindulged and ended up quite intoxicated . I don't remember much from the rest of that evening, but for the next decade, I couldn't even stand the smell of Amaretto, Amaretto cookies, or Amaretto ice cream, well, you get the picture. Nonetheless, I realized: Rome wasn’t built in a day , and neither is my tolerance for this lovely almond liqueur. Now, I can enjoy it again, in moderation, of course, because we all know how that story ends! Amaretto is a wonderfully versatile drink that can be enjoyed in many whimsical ways. With its sweet, almond-kissed flavour, it feels like dessert in a glass and offers comforting solace amidst the chaos of the world. While some may liken sipping it to fiddling while Rome burns , I, personally, find that a bit dramatic, though, to be fair, if Rome is burning, it’s probably because someone tried to flambé something after three glasses. Instead, Amaretto provides a delightful distraction from life’s turmoil, a soothing reminder that sometimes all we can do is clink our glasses and vibe politely through the apocalypse. So please, pass the Amaretto. I intend to savor each delicious sip while everything around me simmers down. Cheers! liquor or liqueur Just to clarify, "liquor" is a general term that refers to distilled alcoholic beverages such as vodka, rum, and whiskey. In contrast, "liqueur" is a specific type of liquor that is sweetened and flavored with various ingredients, including fruits, herbs, or spices; an example of this is Amaretto liqueur. Therefore, all liqueurs are liquors, but not all liquors are liqueurs. Amaretto - A Sweet Delight with a Nutty Twist This sweet Italian liqueur is like a cozy hug in a glass, with its delightful almond flavour that makes it perfect for sipping solo or jazzing up your favourite cocktails and desserts. Now, before you start imagining orchards of almond trees, let me spill the beans: many brands craft their amaretto from apricot pits, peach stones, or other stone fruit kernels. Yes, it's a nutty little riddle wrapped in a sweet package! The name "amaretto" is actually the Italian diminutive of "amaro," which means "bitter." It's a playful reference to the mild bitter notes that run alongside the sweetness. Popular Brands of Amaretto There are hundreds of Amaretto brands made only in Italy, each with its own unique flavour and history. Disaronno Originale : The superstar of the amaretto world, known for its sweet, nutty goodness and hints of marzipan, vanilla, and a zesty whisper of citrus. Plus, that square bottle? Hard to miss! Lazzaroni : This brand has been around since 1851, and boy, do they know what they’re doing! They infuse their liqueur with famous amaretti cookies, giving it a unique baked almond flavour. Gozio Amaretto : Coming from the Distillerie Franciacorta, this gem is as international as a globetrotting foodie, made with bitter almonds sourced from four continents. Luxardo : A family-owned brand that mixes essential oils from cherries, peaches, and apricot pits with top-notch almonds for a well-balanced flavour explosion. Classic Amaretto Cocktails Amaretto liqueur beautifully complements a variety of ingredients. These delightful beverages are perfect for any occasion, whether you're enjoying a cozy night in or hosting a vibrant gathering with friends. Amaretto Sour : The sweet and sour superstar! This cocktail blends amaretto with lemon juice. Modern twists might throw in some bourbon for extra oomph and a dash of egg white for frothiness, topped with a cherry and orange slice. Godfather : With just amaretto and Scotch or bourbon, this drink is simple but packs a punch. It’s the kind of drink that makes you feel like a film noir character. French Connection : This smooth sip brings together equal parts amaretto and cognac. It's like a French kiss for your taste buds! Toasted Almond : For those who prefer dessert in a glass, mix amaretto, coffee liqueur, and cream. It’s a dreamy concoction that tastes like a creamy dessert you can drink! How to Drink Amaretto? Whether you're sipping it solo or mixing it up with a creative cocktail, adding it to your coffee or desserts, Amaretto is here to sweeten your day, one nutty sip at a time! Neat or on the Rocks: Smooth enough to sip, pour it straight into your glass or over ice as a smooth after-dinner treat. It's like a little party for your taste buds! In Coffee: Take your morning brew up a notch by adding a shot of amaretto. It’s the almond-infused pick-me-up you didn't know you needed. In Desserts Amaretto is the fairy godmother of desserts. One splash, and suddenly tiramisu dances, ice cream sings, and freshly whipped cream becomes positively operatic. Amaretto Madeleines For this recipe, I've decided to make madeleines, inspired by the iconic scene in Marcel Proust's novel, À la recherche du temps perdu (In Search of Lost Time), where the adult narrator tastes a madeleine dipped in tea, and this seemingly simple act evokes a rush of long-forgotten childhood memories. This charming concept of involuntary memory truly resonates with me. Each time I sip Amaretto, it whisks me back to those carpe diem days I spent with my sorella in Rome, reminding me to embrace the beauty of those fleeting moments. We are making 24 madeleines in total using two 12-Madeleine mould pans. Ingredients 3/4 cup / 100 grams flour (unbleached, all-purpose) 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1/3 cup / 65 grams sugar 1/2 cup / 110 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature 1/4 cup / 60 ml Amaretto liquor Optional Add-on: dried cherries, finely chopped Instructions If you are using dried cherries, soak them in the Amaretto for at least 10-20 minutes. In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set this mixture aside. In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the eggs, sugar and the Amaretto (make sure to strain it if you're using soaked cherries) for about 5 minutes or until the mixture forms a ribbon when you lift the beater. If you soaked those cherries, this is the perfect moment to fold them in! Gently fold in the dry ingredients with a whisk, followed by the butter in the same manner. Cover the mixture and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200 °C (400 °F), positioning the rack in the middle. Grease and flour a two madeleine pans, then set it aside. Fill each cavity of the pan three-quarters full with batter. Typically, you can fit the two trays together in a standard oven. If not, bake them one after the other for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the madeleines are lightly golden brown. Once baked, remove them from the pan and let them cool completely on a wire rack. Serve with powdered sugar, if desired. Happy sipping and savouring!
- A Sun-kissed Portuguese Red Wine Paired with Pork Belly and Lion's Mane Mushrooms
👩🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. A bold fruit-driven Grande Reserva from Portugal Portugal is a true gem in the wine world, boasting 14 diverse wine regions, each bursting with unique character! The Douro Valley is the dramatic lead, serving up rich Port wines that can captivate anyone's taste buds. Vinho Verde is the bubbly sidekick, always fresh and ready to keep the party going. Then we have Dão, the elegant one who knows just the right pairings for dinner. And let’s not forget Madeira, the fortified wine that’s basically the “life of the party” at every gathering! To top it all off, the dynamic Alentejo region amplifies the excitement, showcasing the wonders of Portugal’s captivating wine landscape! Alentejo The Alentejo is a historic wine region in southern Portugal, known for its enjoyable red blends and fragrant whites. With a winemaking history of over 2,000 years, some producers still use ancient Roman techniques and traditional clay amphorae called talhas. Once famous for cork production, Alentejo has gained recognition as a leading producer of exceptional wines since the 1980s, making it a fantastic destination for wine lovers. Gran Reserva Comparing Portuguese and Spanish "Gran Reserva": Where Ageism is a positive thing! Let's discuss "Gran Reserva," which I like to think of as the wine equivalent of a retirement home. It's where everyone lounges around, waiting to age gracefully. However, the rules can be quite different between our Spanish and Portuguese friends! In Spain, specifically in Rioja, a "Gran Reserva" wine must adhere to strict regulations. It must be aged for a total of 60 months — that’s five years — with at least 24 months spent in oak barrels. On the other hand, in Portugal, "Grande Reserva" signifies exceptional quality and often higher alcohol levels, allowing for more flexibility in aging. These differences in wine regulations highlight the rich traditions of both countries. Reynolds Grande Reserva 2012 Producer Website This Reynolds Grande Reserva an exquisite Portuguese red wine from the sun-drenched Alentejo region, crafted by the dedicated Reynolds Wine Growers , a family-run winery with roots dating back to 1820. Figueira de Cima is an estate of 200 hectares that enjoys the site climate of the Serra de São Mamede. We were excited to uncork the 2012 vintage! Timing is everything when it comes to wine. At 13 years old, the wine is entering or is already in its prime drinking window. It’s like a rebellious teenager, full of life and attitude. The wine captivated our palate right from the first sip, showcasing a remarkable balance between its rich, bold flavours and a refreshing acidity. Its intensity lingers, inviting you to explore the complex layers of fruit and subtle hints of spice that unfold with each taste. It invites you into a world where dark fruits like plum and blackberry delightfully dance on your palate. With a personality that is both dry and expressive, it presents itself in a medium to full-bodied style, showcasing hints of black pepper and a touch of spice and chocolate - ideal for those who appreciate a bit of drama in their glass! Sure, we could have let it age a little longer (even for another decade or more to enjoy earthy notes, tertiary flavours), but we decided to dive into its brilliance as we want a more fruit-forward experience. Decant for at least an hour to allow the wine to fully open up and express. Blend of 40% Alicante Bouschet, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah Aromas: Dark fruits such as blackberry and plum, with hints of black pepper, vanilla, and green coffee beans. Palate: Soft, rounded, and fresh, with a nice, persistent finish. It is described as having a deep pomegranate colour and a dry, medium-bodied profile with smooth tannins. Certification: Vegan Texture: The wine has a good structure with high, soft tannins and medium to high acidity. It is described as elegant and well-balanced. Finish: The wine offers a long, lingering finish with notes of black pepper, chocolate, and oak. Aging: Grapes are fermented separately in French oak vats for a long period. After blending, the wine is bottled and aged at the estate for several years before release. Food pairing: Appetizers with strong, intense flavours Red meat dishes, especially baked or stewed Game meat Cod dishes Buttery cheeses, such as Serra da Estrela ( traditional Portuguese sheep's milk cheese) or semi-soft cheeses like Camembert, Brie or Reblochon from France Dark chocolate with 75% or more cocoa content (the real deal—anything less simply won't do!) Pairing choice - Lion's Mane Mushrooms and Pork Belly I am definitely a mushroom enthusiast. I sneak them into everything: my omelette, my bone broth, and yes, even my afternoon mushroom coffee! I even worked some magic on my husband, who once claimed he didn’t like mushrooms. Growing up, my grandparents lived in the mountains of Northern Hungary, and as fall rolled around, we would gear up for our legendary mushroom hunts in the forest. It felt like we were on a treasure hunt, but instead of gold, we were collecting the most bizarre and quirky wild mushrooms imaginable - who knew fungi could be such characters? We always had our findings carefully examined by the village mushroom expert, who kept us safe from any poisonous surprises. As a kid, I was more intrigued by the hunt for mushrooms than by the actual mushrooms themselves, especially since some can taste like they’ve been dipped in pure bitterness! These days, I’m still on the mushroom hunt, but my adventures usually take place in supermarkets. I find Asian grocers to be great, and I occasionally visit the farmers' market, hoping to discover something unique. I’ve recently stumbled upon the fascinating world of Lion's Mane mushrooms ! True to their name, these extraordinary fungi boast long, shaggy, white spines that resemble the majestic mane of a lion. They are known by several other delightful names, such as bearded tooth fungus, hedgehog fungus, and pom-pom mushroom, each reflecting their unique appearance. Typically found from late summer through fall, their seasonal appearance can vary depending on your geographic location. I’m incredibly excited to incorporate these mushrooms into a variety of dishes! Not only do they offer a rich, earthy flavor that enhances any meal, but they are also packed with numerous health benefits. Miso-glazed pork belly and lion's mane mushrooms Course: Main Servings: 4 Preparation: 20 minutes | Marinate: 2 hours | Cooking: 2.5 hours The Reynolds Grande Reserva 2012 is an exceptional wine that brings remarkable depth and delightful fruit character, making it a perfect match for miso-glazed pork belly, tender lion's mane mushrooms, and flavourful braised red cabbage. The umami-rich, savoury elements of the dish harmonize beautifully with the wine’s earthy undertones and vibrant fruit notes, creating a rich tapestry of flavours that dances on the palate. Its smooth texture and refreshing acidity elegantly cut through the richness of the pork, while the wine's intricate profile holds its own against the bold flavors of the meal, achieving a wonderful balance that elevates the entire dining experience. When enjoyed together, the braised red cabbage serves as a unifying element, as the wine’s earthy and fruity nuances beautifully enhance the savoury-sweet character of the cabbage. This combination promises an enchanting culinary experience that is sure to leave a lasting impression! Ingredients: For the Miso-Glazed Pork Belly: 450g / 1 lb pork belly* 1/4 cup white miso paste 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp sake (or rice wine) 2 tbsp mirin (or honey) 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp sesame oil * Your choice: keeping the skin intact for added texture or removing it for a tender, melt-in-your-mouth experience. For the Lion's Mane Mushrooms: 225g / 8 oz lion's mane mushrooms, cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and pepper to taste For the Braised Red Cabbage: 1 small head of red cabbage, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp sugar 1/2 cup apple juice or water Salt and pepper to taste 1 tbsp olive oil Instructions Prepare the Pork Belly: In a bowl, mix the miso paste, soy sauce, sake, mirin, brown sugar, and sesame oil until well combined. Coat the pork belly thoroughly in the miso mixture. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Cook the Pork Belly: Preheat the oven to 150°C / 300°F. Place the marinated pork belly in a baking dish and cover with a lid or foil. Bake for about 2 hours, until tender. - Once done, increase the oven temperature to 230°C / 450°F and remove the lid/foil. Roast for an additional 15-20 minutes, until the top is caramelized and crispy. Remove from the oven and let it rest. Prepare the Braised Red Cabbage: In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and sauté until soft. Add the red cabbage, apple cider vinegar, sugar, apple juice (or water), salt, and pepper. Stir to combine. Cover and simmer for 20-25 minutes until the cabbage is tender, stirring occasionally. Sauté the Lion's Mane Mushrooms: In a skillet, heat olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add minced garlic and sauté for about 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the lion's mane mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5-7 minutes until golden brown and tender. Remove from heat. Assemble the Dish: Serve the pork belly with sautéed lion's mane mushrooms and a side of braised red cabbage. Garnish with fresh parsley or chives if desired. Happy sipping and savouring!
- Hungarian Rhapsody No. 1 : Sour Cherry Soup with Pálinka
👩🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Pálinka is Hungary's favourite fruit rocket fuel, often dubbed the "Hungarian eau de vie" with an alcohol content that can knock your socks off (40% to 55% ABV). Authentic Pálinka is a protected geographical indication within the European Union so for a brandy to be called Pálinka, it must be mashed, distilled, and bottled in Hungary exclusively from Hungarian-grown fruit or marc . Pálinka is deeply ingrained in Hungarian hospitality and tradition. When I told my husband I was writing a post about pálinka, he immediately pulled out his phone and showed me a thread filled with pálinka memes from his Hungarian friends. According to these same individuals, making jam is often seen as a missed opportunity to produce pálinka, as all fruits can, and should be distilled into this delightful drink! Key fruits While many fruits can be used, some of the most common and popular varieties include: Apricot ( barack ) Plum ( szilva ) Pear ( körte ) Cherry ( cseresznye ) Quince ( birs ) Typically, pálinka is served as a welcoming drink at gatherings and significant celebrations, which is why they insist on providing an endless, bottomless glass. Historically, it has been viewed as a cure-all, sipped by farmers before long days of work, turning "liquid courage" into an art form. The craft of making pálinka is celebrated through various festivals, and let’s not overlook the homemade varieties, where families proudly craft their secret recipes. This often leads to spirited debates about who has the best recipe, and perhaps a few regrettable singing sessions! Hungarian Chilled Sour Cherry Soup with Pálinka - Pálinkás Meggyleves Serves 4-6 | Prep time: 5 min | Cooking time: 20 min Whenever I discuss Hungarian cuisine with my Canadian or European friends, they are always surprised to learn about Hungarian fruit soup, known as gyümölcsleves . This delightful, chilled soup is a quintessential summer dish that’s perfect for warm days! The most famous version features luscious sour cherries, but feel free to get creative with seasonal fruits like berries, peaches, and plums. It bursts with sweet and tangy flavors, making it incredibly refreshing. While it can be enjoyed warm, savoring it chilled as a starter on a hot day is truly a delightful experience. Give it a try, you’ll love it! Pálinka is an optional addition, not commonly used, and should only be consumed by those who are legally permitted to do so. Ingredients: 1 kg sour cherries or cherries or Morello cherries in light syrup, including their juice 4 Tbs sugar 1 Tbs flour 1 generous cup of sour cream 5-6 cloves 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick Zest of one lemon Pinch of salt Water 30 ml /1 oz pálinka Instructions In a large pot, combine well-washed and pitted sour cherries with double the amount of water, then add the sugar. Next, incorporate the cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, lemon peel, and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a gentle boil and let it simmer for about 25-30 minutes. After that, reduce the heat to medium-low and allow it to simmer for an additional 6-7 minutes, until the cherries soften beautifully. Remove the larger spices. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together sour cream and flour with 1/4 cup of the warm cherry liquid to create a smooth mixture. Gradually incorporate another 1/4 cup of the liquid while continuing to whisk until fully blended. Slowly mix in the remaining cherry soup, stirring continuously to avoid lumps. Finally, add the pálinka and stir to combine. Set the mixture aside to cool, then refrigerate until chilled. Happy sipping and savouring!
- Operation: Impress the Wine Snob -White Wines
“Oh gosh, it’s so hard to bring you a wine. You two know so much about wine — what on earth can I bring?” Listen, don’t WINE! I’ll tell you exactly how to make me happy. Bring me an aromatic white wine bursting with terpenes — those magical, volatile compounds that make wine smell like an expensive vacation. If it floats like perfume, flirts with flowers, radiates citrus, and murmurs of fresh herbs carried on a Mediterranean breeze — that’s the one. Still uncertain? Very well — let’s be more precise. In most cases, grape varieties do appear on wine labels , but how prominently they’re shown depends on the country and producer style. And remember: wines with high terpenic content can be anything but predictable — from sumptuously sweet to elegantly bone-dry , always aromatic, always a little enchanting. Here’s a quick breakdown by grape: High Terpenic Wines Muscat / Moscato (incl. Zibibbo!!) The terpene superstar . Expect orange blossom, grape candy, rose, lychee, jasmine. In Italy, “Moscato” is almost always on the label (e.g. Moscato d’Asti) - like being kissed by a sparkling peach. Sweet and playful, yes, though I must confess: the bubbly style isn’t quite my glass of wine. “Zibibbo” appears on Sicilian wines (especially Pantelleria) - a summer opera aria, all sunshine, perfume, and a little dramatic flourish at the end - which I really love! In France, it may appear as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains — which can be dry, sweet, or even sparkling — or as Muscat d’Alsace, typically made in a dry, elegant style. In Hungary, it’s known as Sárga Muskotály ( Yellow Muscat ): equally aromatic, yet often crafted in a refined, still expression that allows those lovely terpenes to truly sing. Gewürztraminer Intensely floral, lychee, rose petal, tropical spice. Typically labeled by grape everywhere it’s made - bold, heady, and gloriously too much (in the best way!) Riesling Especially aromatic styles. Lime blossom, petrol, citrus oil, stone fruit. Always proudly listed in Germany, Austria, Australia, the U.S., etc. In Alsace, France as well if is made of 100% Riesling grapes - perfection in liquid form: dry or sweet, it's sharp, and smarter than everyone at the table. Torrontés Perfumed: rose, orange blossom, tropical fruit. Always listed in Argentina (it’s their signature grape) - ¡Re bueno! a f loral flirt grown in high-altitude areas of the Argentinian Andes. Viognier Apricot, peach, honeysuckle, jasmine. Usually listed, especially in single-varietal bottlings. In Frane it is listed with Rhône Valley, AOP wines (a very good 'lower' tier), but not in Condrieu: Wines from this appellation are legally required to be 100% Viognier, so the label will read "Condrieu," but not necessarily "Viognier." - the fancy stuff : all apricot silk and honeysuckle charm, effortlessly sipping in the VIP lounge of white wines. Malvasia Aromatic, floral, candied citrus. Often included in the name ( Malvasia delle Lipari , Malvasia Bianca ), but not always if it’s part of a blend. Often a sweet wine - l ike your sweet, eccentric aunt — floral, a little nostalgic, and always wearing something glittery. Moderately Terpenic Wines Albariño Peach, citrus blossom, salty sea breeze. Always listed in Spain (Rías Baixas) and elsewhere - the zesty lovechild of a peach and a sea breeze, proudly made in Galicia, Spain. Fiano Honeyed, pine resin, herbs. Usually listed on Italian labels, but sometimes embedded in the regional name rather than highlighted ( Fiano di Avellino DOCG ) - like honey drizzled over a pine tree at an Italian picnic. Chenin Blanc Apple blossom, quince, honeycomb. Commonly found on labels from the New World, particularly South Africa, as well as on labels from its home (and hopefully mine one day!) in the Loire Valle y - refined, eccentric, and worth every golden sip! Sauvignon Blanc While thiols do most of the heavy lifting, terpenes support citrus / floral notes. Always appears on the label (Loire Valle y, France, New Zealand, Chile, etc.) - zippy, sassy, and totally unapologetic. Arneis White flower, pear, almond. Appears on Piedmont labels ( Roero Arneis DOCG ), but not common outside Italy - charming and delicate, the introvert of Italian whites, a rare bird! In short: Yes, you’ll usually see the grape name on bottles of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Viognier, Torrontés, and Chenin Blanc. For the more traditional Italian grapes (Fiano, Arneis, Malvasia, Zibibbo), the grape name often appears alongside a regional designation — but it’s there! If you still reading this and want to sound nerdily fabulous, these are the common wine terpenes: Linalool → orange blossom, citrus Geraniol → rose Nerol → lemon verbena Citronellol → citrus / geranium α-Pinene → pine, resin So next time you panic in a wine shop, just mutter the word “terpenes.” If the clerk nods knowingly, you’ve found your people. If not… well, you’ve got a great story — and probably a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Happy sipping and savouring!
- My Unfinished Business with Sicily -Part 2 - The East
Read Part 1 -The West here. My Sicilian Wine Recommendations here. In the second half of our exciting adventure, we headed to the east side of the island! We were thrilled to cross the heart of Sicily by car, soaked in the stunning views and, well, sweat. Did you know that Sicily is closer to the shores of Africa than to the heart of Rome? We quickly realized this as we were enveloped in heat beneath the blazing August sky. Sicily truly stands out as a treasure trove of ancient Greek architecture; it is undoubtedly one of the best-preserved sites in the world (sorry, Greece and Turkey!). From iconic landmarks to hidden gems that even Google Maps can’t locate, Sicily’s ruins are remarkably well preserved. As an archaeologist and art historian (at least in theory), I understand how exhilarating yet challenging it can be for my kids when we travel. My goal is to share and teach them about the rich tapestry of history and art that surrounds us, and Italy offers a breathtaking array of treasures! I’m thrilled that my older daughter has developed a keen interest in Greek mythology and history, thanks to Rick Riordan's inspiring "Percy Jackson & the Olympians" series. Her excitement to explore the Greek ruins was palpable, marking a wonderful first step into the world she has read about. The very hot journey from Palermo to Syracuse was positively sizzling but we made pit stops in The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento , a breathtaking expanse that offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Greek art and architecture from the region of Magna Graecia. Nestled in the rolling hills of Sicily, this archaeological site features monumental ruins, including impressive temples dedicated to gods such as Concordia, Juno, and Hercules. Surrounded by lush landscapes and golden fields, the Valley of the Temples is not only a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations but also a serene and captivating destination, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring the beauty and history of Sicily. The Villa Romana del Casale, located in Piazza Armerina , a magnificent Roman villa renowned for its stunning mosaics and well-preserved ruins.The Villa is like a Pinterest board of Roman life that reveal everything from daily life shenanigans to epic mythological battles. The walls act like social media posts, sharing the glories—and possibly the dramas—of the past. It truly feels like a blast from the past, highlighting just how sophisticated the Romans were. You’ll leave with the impression that they really knew how to master feng shui in the early 4th century AD in this Sicilian hunting lodge . Fresh from our visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we were so eager to see real mosaics in their original settings, and they certainly didn’t disappoint! If you find yourself in these area, I wholeheartedly encourage you to visit these incredible sites. Syracuse During the second week of our Sicilian adventure, we were staying in Syracuse, in a lovely modern townhouse just outside the Belvedere district. Syracuse, the former home of Archimedes, truly captivated us - especially the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum ( Via Vincenzo Mirabella, 31, 96100 Siracusa) , which our kids absolutely adored! Syracuse is not only steeped in history, being a significant jewel of the ancient Greek world, but it’s also one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had the joy of visiting. Exploring the city is an absolute delight! Begin your journey in the narrow streets of the old city, Ortigia , where history comes alive. The local market was one of the best I seen not only in Sicult bit in Italy altogehter. Make it a priority to visit the magnificent Duomo di Siracusa . This breathtaking cathedral boasts a rich history, originally serving as the Temple of Athena. You’ll be amazed to find remnants of its Doric columns and ancient walls integrated throughout the cathedral. The baroque, white-washed façade radiates beautifully under the August sun, a sight so stunning that it truly takes your breath away! (Yes, I even cried.) At the far end of Duomo Piazza, you’ll discover the charming church of Santa Lucia alla Badia . Here, behind the altar, you can admire an exquisite painting by Caravaggio . My husband and I have developed a serious case of Caravaggio fever - let’s call it "Caravaggomania!" We’re on a mission to track down his masterpieces scattered around the globe. Experts generally attribute between 60 and 80 paintings to Caravaggio, but the exact number is debated. While some lucky folks have his works hanging in their living rooms, which feels out of reach for us mortals, about half of his known paintings can be found in museums and churches. Those are our prime targets, or rather, our ultimate goal! Seeing "The Burial of Santa Lucia" in Syracuse was a highlight for us! (Update: the painting has been moved back to its original location at the Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro in Syracuse). The Neapolis Archaeological Park, which includes the ancient Greek Theatre and Roman Amphitheatre and the Ear of Dionysius cave is also worth the visit. T aormina Taormina, Sicily's renowned resort town, is filled with lively restaurants, shops, and beautiful beaches. Although it can become quite crowded with tourists, the panoramic views of Mount Etna and the coastline from the Greek amphitheater are truly unforgettable. During our visit, Mount Etna—a majestic volcano—dramatically showcased its power by erupting. It sent plumes of ash and fiery red lava high into the sky, creating a breathtaking and humbling sight. And be sure to treat yourself to a delicious granita siciliana at Bam Bar ( Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME) - a refreshing frozen treat that you can enjoy at any time of the day, not just for breakfast as the locals typically do! We capped off our sunny day at Isola Bella beach by indulging in delicious Grilled Swordfish and the iconic Parmigiana di Melanzane al forno, all perfectly complemented by local Carricante Etna Bianco D.O.C. V al di Noto - The Baroque Towns Ragusa, Noto, and Modica, along with a few other charming towns we didn’t explore, are treasures of the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, proudly recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites! Celebrated for their stunning Late Baroque architecture. They were reconstructed in the late 17th century after a devastating earthquake and feature magnificent churches, elegant palaces, and unique cultural heritages. R agusa We had the pleasure of spending an entire day exploring the captivating city of Ragusa. The scenic drive from Syracuse takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, making it a perfect lead-up to a day filled with adventure. A helpful tip for fellow travelers: many churches close for lunch, so if you're arriving around noon, you might need to plan your visits for later in the afternoon, around 4 or 5 PM. We arrived at 11:00 AM, and after parking our car, we took our time strolling through the charming, steep streets. On our way to the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, we enjoyed glimpses of several smaller but incredibly beautiful churches. Unfortunately, when we reached the Duomo just before noon, we discovered it was closed for the lunch break. My husband, ever the optimist, made a valiant attempt to convince the door guard to let us in. But she was not budging - her lunch plans were sacred, and I think even the statue behind her looked a bit nervous! The exterior of the church is truly a sight to behold, standing proudly as the heart of the town. We spent a delightful afternoon eagerly anticipating the beauty that awaited us inside. As we meandered through the charming streets of Ragusa, our kids had the most wonderful time playing in the picturesque Giardino Ibleo. They were thrilled to discover not just more churches, but also some inviting Italian slides and balance beams! After savoring a delicious lunch, we were excited to finally explore the church. Although the interior didn’t quite meet our lofty expectations, it couldn’t diminish our overall appreciation of the day. Ragusa is split into two captivating areas: the historic Ragusa Ibla and the elevated Ragusa Superiore, separated by the breathtaking Valle dei Ponti. Before wrapping up our visit, we stopped by the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore. Its stunning interior and majestic façade made the perfect backdrop for capturing memories of our journey in this beautiful city! M odica We arrived in the enchanting town of Modica as evening fell, and it turned out to be the perfect timing for dinner! We discovered a true culinary treasure at Contrade Sicilian Food Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of the finest meals of our entire Italian adventure. Tucked away in a charming alley, this gem is a proud participant in the Sicilian slow food movement, and it did not disappoint. We also enjoyed Modica’s famous chocolate and its delightful creations, including some with alcohol, such as an exquisite chocolate liqueur. The Cioccolato di Modica, recognized as an Italian P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-food Product), boasts a rich heritage based on ancient Aztec recipes smuggled into Italy by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it’s like a delicious time machine for your taste buds! N oto Our journey continued with an afternoon visit to Noto, just a scenic 40-minute drive from Syracuse. This vibrant city definitely had a more touristy vibe, especially in August, buzzing with both visitors and locals. We climbed to the rooftop of Chiesa Santa Chiara, where we were treated to a stunning view of Noto—a mesmerizing showcase of baroque architecture with its golden sandstone churches and palaces. The magnificent Noto Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and several other baroque churches were easily accessible, adding to the charm of our visit. To top off our experience, we even had a delightful encounter with a Sicilian wedding at sunset! Before leaving Noto, I highly recommend stopping by Caffè Sicilia ( Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR) . This iconic café, run by the Assenza family since 1892 on the main street is known for serving some of the best gelato you could ever taste. Their unique and intense granita ice cream flavours are a must-try! Our adventure in Sicily was not just a fascinating journey; it also served as the perfect warm-up for the exciting travels that lay ahead. We wrapped up our Sicilian experience before diving into the wonders of three weeks in Rome—another incredible blend of Antiquity and Baroque! B est of Sicily We were enchanted by the vibrant colours, inviting aromas, and the stunning blend of architectural styles. The unique traditions and warm hospitality of the Sicilian people made our time there truly unforgettable. Our Hilarious Adventure in Sicily (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 and 9) 1. Culture: - Piazza Armerina - Ancient Greek ruins of Segesta and Agrigento - Baroque towns: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa - The Norman cathedral of Monreale - Ortygia (checking out the Archimedes Museum) - Syracuse Cathedral - Archaeological Museum of Syracuse 2. Beaches: - San Vito lo Capo - Mondello 3. Restaurants: - La Baronia in Caccamo - Contrade Sicilian Food in Modica 4. Markets: - Mercato di Siracusa - Mercato il Capo in Palermo (we liked it better than the famous Ballarò) 5. Granita: - Bam Bar in Taormina - Caffè Sicilia in Noto (where granita is basically a food group) 6. Espresso: - Bar del Corso in Palermo R egrets 1. Not staying in an agriturismo: an independently-owned farm that offers accommodation for an authentic rural experience. 2. Starting our Sicilian stay in Palermo: in hindsight, I would begin our journey in Siracusa and explore the eastern side of the island first. Once we were "acclimated" to Sicily, we could then visit Palermo. 3. Failing to connect with enough locals. 4. Missing out on the Marsala wine region and the province of Trapani. >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 1










