My Unfinished Business with Sicily -Part 2 - The East
- Sylvia Fonalka
- Oct 24, 2025
- 8 min read
Updated: Oct 25, 2025
In the second half of our exciting adventure, we headed to the east side of the island!
We were thrilled to cross the heart of Sicily by car, soaked in the stunning views and, well, sweat.
Did you know that Sicily is closer to the shores of Africa than to the heart of Rome? We quickly realized this as we were enveloped in heat beneath the blazing August sky.
Sicily truly stands out as a treasure trove of ancient Greek architecture; it is undoubtedly one of the best-preserved sites in the world (sorry, Greece and Turkey!). From iconic landmarks to hidden gems that even Google Maps can’t locate, Sicily’s ruins are remarkably well preserved. As an archaeologist and art historian (at least in theory), I understand how exhilarating yet challenging it can be for my kids when we travel. My goal is to share and teach them about the rich tapestry of history and art that surrounds us, and Italy offers a breathtaking array of treasures! I’m thrilled that my older daughter has developed a keen interest in Greek mythology and history, thanks to Rick Riordan's inspiring "Percy Jackson & the Olympians" series. Her excitement to explore the Greek ruins was palpable, marking a wonderful first step into the world she has read about.
The very hot journey from Palermo to Syracuse was positively sizzling but we made pit stops in
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a breathtaking expanse that offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Greek art and architecture from the region of Magna Graecia. Nestled in the rolling hills of Sicily, this archaeological site features monumental ruins, including impressive temples dedicated to gods such as Concordia, Juno, and Hercules. Surrounded by lush landscapes and golden fields, the Valley of the Temples is not only a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations but also a serene and captivating destination, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring the beauty and history of Sicily.
The Villa Romana del Casale, located in Piazza Armerina, a magnificent Roman villa renowned for its stunning mosaics and well-preserved ruins.The Villa is like a Pinterest board of Roman life that reveal everything from daily life shenanigans to epic mythological battles. The walls act like social media posts, sharing the glories—and possibly the dramas—of the past. It truly feels like a blast from the past, highlighting just how sophisticated the Romans were. You’ll leave with the impression that they really knew how to master feng shui in the early 4th century AD in this Sicilian hunting lodge.
Fresh from our visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we were so eager to see real mosaics in their original settings, and they certainly didn’t disappoint!
If you find yourself in these area, I wholeheartedly encourage you to visit these incredible sites.
Syracuse
During the second week of our Sicilian adventure, we were staying in Syracuse, in a lovely modern townhouse just outside the Belvedere district.
Syracuse, the former home of Archimedes, truly captivated us - especially the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum (Via Vincenzo Mirabella, 31, 96100 Siracusa), which our kids absolutely adored!
Syracuse is not only steeped in history, being a significant jewel of the ancient Greek world, but it’s also one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had the joy of visiting. Exploring the city is an absolute delight! Begin your journey in the narrow streets of the old city, Ortigia, where history comes alive. The local market was one of the best I seen not only in Sicult bit in Italy altogehter.
Make it a priority to visit the magnificent Duomo di Siracusa. This breathtaking cathedral boasts a rich history, originally serving as the Temple of Athena. You’ll be amazed to find remnants of its Doric columns and ancient walls integrated throughout the cathedral. The baroque, white-washed façade radiates beautifully under the August sun, a sight so stunning that it truly takes your breath away! (Yes, I even cried.)
At the far end of Duomo Piazza, you’ll discover the charming church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Here, behind the altar, you can admire an exquisite painting by Caravaggio.
My husband and I have developed a serious case of Caravaggio fever - let’s call it "Caravaggomania!" We’re on a mission to track down his masterpieces scattered around the globe.
Experts generally attribute between 60 and 80 paintings to Caravaggio, but the exact number is debated. While some lucky folks have his works hanging in their living rooms, which feels out of reach for us mortals, about half of his known paintings can be found in museums and churches. Those are our prime targets, or rather, our ultimate goal!
Seeing "The Burial of Santa Lucia" in Syracuse was a highlight for us! (Update: the painting has been moved back to its original location at the Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro in Syracuse).
The Neapolis Archaeological Park, which includes the ancient Greek Theatre and Roman Amphitheatre and the Ear of Dionysius cave is also worth the visit.
Taormina
Taormina, Sicily's renowned resort town, is filled with lively restaurants, shops, and beautiful beaches. Although it can become quite crowded with tourists, the panoramic views of Mount Etna and the coastline from the Greek amphitheater are truly unforgettable. During our visit, Mount Etna—a majestic volcano—dramatically showcased its power by erupting. It sent plumes of ash and fiery red lava high into the sky, creating a breathtaking and humbling sight.
And be sure to treat yourself to a delicious granita siciliana at Bam Bar (Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME) - a refreshing frozen treat that you can enjoy at any time of the day, not just for breakfast as the locals typically do!
We capped off our sunny day at Isola Bella beach by indulging in delicious Grilled Swordfish and the iconic Parmigiana di Melanzane al forno, all perfectly complemented by local Carricante Etna Bianco D.O.C.
Val di Noto - The Baroque Towns
Ragusa, Noto, and Modica, along with a few other charming towns we didn’t explore, are treasures of the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, proudly recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites! Celebrated for their stunning Late Baroque architecture. They were reconstructed in the late 17th century after a devastating earthquake and feature magnificent churches, elegant palaces, and unique cultural heritages.
Ragusa
We had the pleasure of spending an entire day exploring the captivating city of Ragusa. The scenic drive from Syracuse takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, making it a perfect lead-up to a day filled with adventure. A helpful tip for fellow travelers: many churches close for lunch, so if you're arriving around noon, you might need to plan your visits for later in the afternoon, around 4 or 5 PM. We arrived at 11:00 AM, and after parking our car, we took our time strolling through the charming, steep streets. On our way to the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, we enjoyed glimpses of several smaller but incredibly beautiful churches.
Unfortunately, when we reached the Duomo just before noon, we discovered it was closed for the lunch break. My husband, ever the optimist, made a valiant attempt to convince the door guard to let us in. But she was not budging - her lunch plans were sacred, and I think even the statue behind her looked a bit nervous!
The exterior of the church is truly a sight to behold, standing proudly as the heart of the town. We spent a delightful afternoon eagerly anticipating the beauty that awaited us inside. As we meandered through the charming streets of Ragusa, our kids had the most wonderful time playing in the picturesque Giardino Ibleo. They were thrilled to discover not just more churches, but also some inviting Italian slides and balance beams! After savoring a delicious lunch, we were excited to finally explore the church. Although the interior didn’t quite meet our lofty expectations, it couldn’t diminish our overall appreciation of the day. Ragusa is split into two captivating areas: the historic Ragusa Ibla and the elevated Ragusa Superiore, separated by the breathtaking Valle dei Ponti. Before wrapping up our visit, we stopped by the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore. Its stunning interior and majestic façade made the perfect backdrop for capturing memories of our journey in this beautiful city!
Modica
We arrived in the enchanting town of Modica as evening fell, and it turned out to be the perfect timing for dinner! We discovered a true culinary treasure at Contrade Sicilian Food Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of the finest meals of our entire Italian adventure. Tucked away in a charming alley, this gem is a proud participant in the Sicilian slow food movement, and it did not disappoint.
We also enjoyed Modica’s famous chocolate and its delightful creations, including some with alcohol, such as an exquisite chocolate liqueur. The Cioccolato di Modica, recognized as an Italian P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-food Product), boasts a rich heritage based on ancient Aztec recipes smuggled into Italy by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it’s like a delicious time machine for your taste buds!
Noto
Our journey continued with an afternoon visit to Noto, just a scenic 40-minute drive from Syracuse. This vibrant city definitely had a more touristy vibe, especially in August, buzzing with both visitors and locals. We climbed to the rooftop of Chiesa Santa Chiara, where we were treated to a stunning view of Noto—a mesmerizing showcase of baroque architecture with its golden sandstone churches and palaces. The magnificent Noto Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and several other baroque churches were easily accessible, adding to the charm of our visit.
To top off our experience, we even had a delightful encounter with a Sicilian wedding at sunset! Before leaving Noto, I highly recommend stopping by Caffè Sicilia (Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR). This iconic café, run by the Assenza family since 1892 on the main street is known for serving some of the best gelato you could ever taste. Their unique and intense granita ice cream flavours are a must-try!
Our adventure in Sicily was not just a fascinating journey; it also served as the perfect warm-up for the exciting travels that lay ahead. We wrapped up our Sicilian experience before diving into the wonders of three weeks in Rome—another incredible blend of Antiquity and Baroque!
Best of Sicily
We were enchanted by the vibrant colours, inviting aromas, and the stunning blend of architectural styles. The unique traditions and warm hospitality of the Sicilian people made our time there truly unforgettable.
Our Hilarious Adventure in Sicily (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 and 9)
1. Culture:
- Piazza Armerina
- Ancient Greek ruins of Segesta and Agrigento
- Baroque towns: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa
- The Norman cathedral of Monreale
- Ortygia (checking out the Archimedes Museum)
- Syracuse Cathedral
- Archaeological Museum of Syracuse
2. Beaches:
- San Vito lo Capo
- Mondello
3. Restaurants:
- La Baronia in Caccamo
- Contrade Sicilian Food in Modica
4. Markets:
- Mercato di Siracusa
- Mercato il Capo in Palermo (we liked it better than the famous Ballarò)
5. Granita:
- Bam Bar in Taormina
- Caffè Sicilia in Noto (where granita is basically a food group)
6. Espresso:
- Bar del Corso in Palermo
Regrets
1. Not staying in an agriturismo: an independently-owned farm that offers accommodation for an authentic rural experience.
2. Starting our Sicilian stay in Palermo: in hindsight, I would begin our journey in Siracusa and explore the eastern side of the island first. Once we were "acclimated" to Sicily, we could then visit Palermo.
3. Failing to connect with enough locals.
4. Missing out on the Marsala wine region and the province of Trapani.
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