My Unfinished Business with Sicily -Part 2 - The East
- Oct 24, 2025
- 8 min read
Updated: May 3
In the second half of our exciting adventure, we headed to the east side of the island!
We were thrilled to cross the heart of Sicily by car, soaked in the stunning views and, well, sweat.
Fun fact: Sicily is actually closer to the coast of Africa than to mainland Italy. You feel that almost immediately as the landscape shifts and the heat settles in under a blazing sky.
What really stands out on this side of the island is just how much ancient Greek history is still visible. Sicily is home to some of the best-preserved Greek ruins in the world (Greece and Turkey might raise an eyebrow at that, but still). From famous archaeological sites to smaller ruins you’d barely find without stumbling across them, it’s all remarkably intact.
As an archaeologist and art historian (at least in theory), I understand how exhilarating yet challenging it can be for my kids when we travel. My goal is to share and teach them about the rich tapestry of history and art that surrounds us, and Italy offers a breathtaking array of treasures!
I’ve also been lucky that my older daughter has really taken to it. Thanks to Rick Riordan’s Percy Jackson & the Olympians series, she’s developed a real interest in Greek mythology and ancient history. Seeing her get genuinely excited about visiting Greek ruins in real life - after reading about them for so long- felt like a pretty special full-circle moment.
The very hot journey from Palermo to Syracuse was positively sizzling but we made pit stops in
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, a breathtaking expanse that offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Greek art and architecture from the region of Magna Graecia. Nestled in the rolling hills of Sicily, this archaeological site features monumental ruins, including impressive temples dedicated to gods such as Concordia, Juno, and Hercules. Surrounded by lush landscapes and golden fields, the Valley of the Temples is not only a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations but also a serene and captivating destination, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring the beauty and history of Sicily.
The Villa Romana del Casale, located in Piazza Armerina, a magnificent Roman villa renowned for its stunning mosaics and well-preserved ruins.The Villa is like a Pinterest board of Roman life that reveal everything from daily life shenanigans to epic mythological battles. The walls act like social media posts, sharing the glories, and possibly the dramas, of the past. It truly feels like a blast from the past, highlighting just how sophisticated the Romans were. You’ll leave with the impression that they really knew how to master feng shui in the early 4th century AD in this Sicilian hunting lodge.
Fresh from our visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we were so eager to see real mosaics in their original settings, and they certainly didn’t disappoint!
If you find yourself in these area, I wholeheartedly encourage you to visit these incredible sites.
Syracuse
During the second week of our Sicilian adventure, we were staying in Syracuse, in a lovely modern townhouse just outside the Belvedere district.
Syracuse, the former home of Archimedes, truly captivated us - especially the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum (Via Vincenzo Mirabella, 31, 96100 Siracusa), which our kids absolutely adored!
Syracuse is not only steeped in history, being a significant jewel of the ancient Greek world, but it’s also one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had the joy of visiting. Exploring the city is an absolute delight! Begin your journey in the narrow streets of the old city, Ortigia, where history comes alive. The local market was one of the best I seen not only in Sicult bit in Italy altogehter.
Make it a priority to visit the magnificent Duomo di Siracusa. This breathtaking cathedral has a layered history-it originally stood as the Temple of Athena, and you can still spot traces of that past in the Doric columns and ancient stonework embedded within the structure.
What makes it even more striking is the Baroque façade, bright and white-washed, glowing under the August sun. It’s the kind of place that genuinely stops you in your tracks.
(Full disclosure: I may have shed a tear. Just one. Very discreet.)
At the far end of Duomo Piazza, you’ll discover the charming church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Tucked behind the altar is a striking painting by Caravaggio.
My husband and I have developed what can only be described as a mild case of Caravaggio fever, or let’s be honest, Caravaggomania. We’ve started tracking his works wherever we travel, like two very enthusiastic art detectives with no real authority but plenty of confidence.
There are roughly 60 to 80 paintings attributed to Caravaggio, though even that number is debated. A few lucky people apparently have one hanging in their living room (which feels wildly unfair), but most of his works are split between museums and churches. That’s our sweet spot, the ones you can actually go and see in person, preferably without needing a private collector’s budget.
Seeing The Burial of Santa Lucia in Syracuse was a real highlight for us, even if it has since been moved back to its original home at the Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro.
And while you’re in Syracuse, the Neapolis Archaeological Park is absolutely worth the detour. Between the ancient Greek theatre, the Roman amphitheatre, and the surreal Ear of Dionysius cave, it’s one of those places where history feels less like something you read about and more like something you’re standing inside.
Taormina
Taormina, Sicily's renowned resort town, is filled with lively restaurants, shops, and beautiful beaches. Although it can become quite crowded with tourists, the panoramic views of Mount Etna and the coastline from the Greek amphitheater are truly unforgettable. During our visit, Mount Etna, the majestic volcano, dramatically showcased its power by erupting. It sent plumes of ash and fiery red lava high into the sky, creating a breathtaking and humbling sight.
And be sure to treat yourself to a delicious granita siciliana at Bam Bar (Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME) - a refreshing frozen treat that you can enjoy at any time of the day, not just for breakfast as the locals typically do!
We capped off our sunny day at Isola Bella beach by indulging in delicious Grilled Swordfish and the iconic Parmigiana di Melanzane al forno, all perfectly complemented by local Carricante Etna Bianco D.O.C.
Val di Noto - The Baroque Towns
Ragusa, Noto, and Modica, along with a few other charming towns we didn’t explore, are treasures of the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, proudly recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites! Celebrated for their stunning Late Baroque architecture. They were reconstructed in the late 17th century after a devastating earthquake and feature magnificent churches, elegant palaces, and unique cultural heritages.
Ragusa
We had the pleasure of spending an entire day exploring the captivating city of Ragusa. The scenic drive from Syracuse takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, making it a perfect lead-up to a day filled with adventure. A helpful tip for fellow travelers: many churches close for lunch, so if you're arriving around noon, you might need to plan your visits for later in the afternoon, around 4 or 5 PM. We arrived at 11:00 AM, and after parking our car, we took our time strolling through the charming, steep streets. On our way to the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, we enjoyed glimpses of several smaller but incredibly beautiful churches.
Unfortunately, when we reached the Duomo just before noon, we discovered it was closed for the lunch break. My husband, ever the optimist, made a valiant attempt to convince the door guard to let us in. But she was not budging - her lunch plans were sacred, and I think even the statue behind her looked a bit nervous!
The exterior of the church is truly a sight to behold, standing proudly as the heart of the town. We spent a delightful afternoon eagerly anticipating the beauty that awaited us inside. As we meandered through the charming streets of Ragusa, our kids had the most wonderful time playing in the picturesque Giardino Ibleo. They were thrilled to discover not just more churches, but also some inviting Italian slides and balance beams! After savoring a delicious lunch, we were excited to finally explore the church. Although the interior didn’t quite meet our lofty expectations, it couldn’t diminish our overall appreciation of the day. Ragusa is split into two captivating areas: the historic Ragusa Ibla and the elevated Ragusa Superiore, separated by the breathtaking Valle dei Ponti. Before wrapping up our visit, we stopped by the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore. Its stunning interior and majestic façade made the perfect backdrop for capturing memories of our journey in this beautiful city!
Modica
We arrived in the enchanting town of Modica as evening fell, and it turned out to be the perfect timing for dinner! We discovered a true culinary treasure at Contrade Sicilian Food Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of the finest meals of our entire Italian adventure. Tucked away in a charming alley, this gem is a proud participant in the Sicilian slow food movement, and it did not disappoint.
We also enjoyed Modica’s famous chocolate and its delightful creations, including some with alcohol, such as an exquisite chocolate liqueur. The Cioccolato di Modica, recognized as an Italian P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-food Product), boasts a rich heritage based on ancient Aztec recipes smuggled into Italy by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it’s like a delicious time machine for your taste buds!
Noto
Our journey continued with an afternoon visit to Noto, just a scenic 40-minute drive from Syracuse. This vibrant city definitely had a more touristy vibe, especially in August, buzzing with both visitors and locals. We climbed to the rooftop of Chiesa Santa Chiara, where we were treated to a stunning view of Noto—a mesmerizing showcase of baroque architecture with its golden sandstone churches and palaces. The magnificent Noto Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and several other baroque churches were easily accessible, adding to the charm of our visit.
To top off our experience, we even had a delightful encounter with a Sicilian wedding at sunset! Before leaving Noto, I highly recommend stopping by Caffè Sicilia (Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR). This iconic café, run by the Assenza family since 1892 on the main street is known for serving some of the best gelato you could ever taste. Their unique and intense granita ice cream flavours are a must-try!
Our adventure in Sicily was not just a fascinating journey; it also served as the perfect warm-up for the exciting travels that lay ahead. We wrapped up our Sicilian experience before diving into the wonders of three weeks in Rome—another incredible blend of Antiquity and Baroque!
Best of Sicily
We were enchanted by the vibrant colours, inviting aromas, and the stunning blend of architectural styles. The unique traditions and warm hospitality of the Sicilian people made our time there truly unforgettable.
Our Hilarious Adventure in Sicily (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 and 9)
1. Culture:
- Piazza Armerina
- Ancient Greek ruins of Segesta and Agrigento
- Baroque towns: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa
- The Norman cathedral of Monreale
- Ortygia (checking out the Archimedes Museum)
- Syracuse Cathedral
- Archaeological Museum of Syracuse
2. Beaches:
- San Vito lo Capo
- Mondello
3. Restaurants:
- La Baronia in Caccamo
- Contrade Sicilian Food in Modica
4. Markets:
- Mercato di Siracusa
- Mercato il Capo in Palermo (we liked it better than the famous Ballarò)
5. Granita:
- Bam Bar in Taormina
- Caffè Sicilia in Noto (where granita is basically a food group)
6. Espresso:
- Bar del Corso in Palermo
Regrets
1. Not staying in an agriturismo: an independently-owned farm that offers accommodation for an authentic rural experience.
2. Starting our Sicilian stay in Palermo: in hindsight, I would begin our journey in Siracusa and explore the eastern side of the island first. Once we were "acclimated" to Sicily, we could then visit Palermo.
3. Failing to connect with enough locals.
4. Missing out on the Marsala wine region and the province of Trapani.
5. Not exploring Sicily’s wine country properly: we barely scratched the surface of the island’s vineyards - no time in the volcanic terroir of Mount Etna DOC, and no deep dive into the island’s incredible indigenous grapes like Nerello Mascalese or Grillo.
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