My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 1 - The West
- Sylvia Fonalka
- Oct 24, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
If this title isn’t self-explanatory, no other place has inspired me to explore more than Sicily.
I have visited Italy many times, but I never traveled further south than Rome. Sicily was certainly uncharted territory. This time, after spending an amazing month in Northern Italy, exploring the charm of Milan, Florence, and Venice, and the Amalfi Coast (the usual suspects for a typical Italian holiday), we (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 & 9) were eager to discover what Sicily had in store for us.
Sicily’s incredible position between Europe and Africa has made it a melting pot of cultures for centuries, which gives the island its unique, vibrant character. Though it boasts a rich tapestry of heritage, it still often gets overlooked or left out of the typical Italian itinerary by many travellers in favour of more popular spots.
Our two-week exploration of this captivating island in Italy's deep south left me eager for more, and I am not just talking about the delicious food—arancini, cannoli, and granitas! Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is a treasure waiting to be explored! To truly immerse ourselves, we picked two wonderful base towns: vibrant Palermo on the west side for the first week and charming Syracuse on the east for the second week.
Palermo
We rented a beautiful Airbnb in the historic Kalsa neighborhood of Palermo. Our apartment was perfectly situated above the scenic promenade and the stunning terrace of Mura delle Cattive, dating back to the late 17th century, offering breathtaking views of the sea.
Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, renowned as one of Sicily's most esteemed novelists, and best known for his masterpiece The Leopard (adapted into a celebrated film in 1963 and has recently been reimagined as a Netflix series) lived in the Butera 28 apartments, just a stone's throw away, until his death in 1957.
The promenade, once a stunning gem of Palermo, faced destruction during World War II, like so much of the city. Thankfully, it began its incredible journey of restoration in 1997 and reopened to the public the very next year! It’s hard to believe that such a beautiful landmark lay forgotten for decades, but now it shines brighter than ever.
As you walk along the revitalized promenade, it’s easy to imagine the elegantly dressed aristocrats from Lampedusa's era stepping out of their carriages for evening strolls. The terraces may be private, but the promenade is bursting with cozy spots where you can sip a drink or indulge in some ice cream. The place is always buzzing with laughter and chatter from everyone, from sprightly 90-year-olds telling wild stories about the good old days to babies in strollers who may just be plotting world domination. It's a lively scene, even at midnight, as if the entire town collectively decided that sleep is overrated!
Palermo, the vibrant capital and main port of its enchanting island, offers a captivating blend of decadence and raw energy that is sure to leave an impression! While it might feel a bit overwhelming at times, especially when traveling with small children, the city has a charm that beckons exploration.
Chaos is everywhere in Palermo. For motorists, traffic signs are mere suggestions. Once beautiful buildings are now crumbling and covered in graffiti. Stray dogs follow you down the poetic alleys, and self-proclaimed “security guards” promise to keep your vehicle safe—for a few Euros—as if the elderly men sitting in front of each building all day weren’t enough to ensure the area’s safety. The piazzas, filled with bustling restaurants, are always crowded, and guests seem happy to be seated outside in the dark alleys at tables that the staff have just set up for them. Losing yourself in a new city is the best way to truly experience it. To feel Palermo's pulse while enjoying unexpected culinary delights, be sure to visit a couple of street markets. They offer everything from mysterious seafood to stigghiola skewers made from lamb intestines!
Sicilian Marionettes - Opera dei Pupi
For a wonderful family-friendly outing, be sure to visit the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Piazza Antonio Pasqualino, 5, 90133 Palermo). This museum features a fascinating collection of marionettes from around the world and has the potential to become a must-see attraction with some added support.
The incredible collection of traditional Sicilian puppets is truly a sight to behold! Anyone visiting Sicily will undoubtedly notice these charming marionettes in local shops. While they might initially seem like typical tourist trinkets, these puppets are, in fact, vital symbols of Sicilian cultural identity. They play an integral role in the Opera dei Pupi, a captivating form of Sicilian entertainment that dates back to at least the 15th century.
My youngest daughter couldn’t resist spending her entire trip budget on a replica puppet—a stunning Angelica dressed in beautiful turquoise chiffon and armor.
An Eclectic Architectural Journey
Amidst a touch of dirt and rubble, this island shines as a captivating treasure trove of ancient, medieval, and Baroque architecture, sure to enchant anyone who explores its remarkable beauty!
Palermo is a delightful gem, bursting predominantly with breathtaking Baroque architecture intertwined with enchanting medieval elements! Back in the 10th century, Robert Guiscard of the House of Hauteville embarked on an incredible adventure, leaving Normandy alongside his brother Roger to conquer Sicily from the Saracens. The Normands ended up staying for 130 years, creating stunning monuments in the unique Norman-Sicilian style. Today, these architectural wonders are still wowing visitors, making it one historic trip you won't want to miss!
Must-see sites
These include the awe-inspiring Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral of Palermo, the Monreale Cathedral (a half-day trip that is absolutely worthwhile), Cefalù (perfect for a day trip that pairs beautifully with some beach time or exploring the medieval castle of Caccamo), and Messina (the essential port connecting Sicily to mainland Italy). Each of these locations is a testament to the rich tapestry of Sicilian history, and I couldn’t recommend them more.
Beaches
When you're in Italy with kids, a few beach days (or half-days) are non-negotiable—because let’s face it: nothing keeps the little ones happy like sun, sand, and splashing in the waves! Sicily has a whopping 1,000 kilometres (that’s about 600 miles for those not on the ‘kilometre’ train) of coastline, so you’re in for a treat.
My favourite beach was hands down Mondello: clear, beautiful water and soft sandy cove beach just west of Palermo. It seemed very popular with young Sicilians and tourists as well and a fun place to get away from the chaos of Palermo and catch some rays.
In a close second is San Vito lo Capo, a picturesque coastal town that’s about a two-hour drive from Palermo. It’s like a scene from a postcard, nestled under Monte Cofano, a dramatic limestone cliff that looks like nature’s crown jewel. You can also explore nearby coves and the Zingaro nature reserve.
Don't miss the stunning Lungomare di Cefalù! Just a short distance from town, it offers breathtaking views that you'll absolutely love.
With all these options, you’re bound to find a spot that’s just right for soaking up the sun and pretending you don’t hear the kids arguing over who gets the last sandcastle bucket!
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