My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 1 - The West
- Oct 24, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: May 3
If this title isn’t self-explanatory, no other place has inspired me to explore more than Sicily.
I have visited Italy many times, but I never traveled further south than Rome. Sicily was certainly uncharted territory. This time, after spending an amazing month in Northern(-ish) Italy, exploring the charm of Milan, Florence, and Venice, and the Amalfi Coast (the usual suspects for a typical Italian holiday), we were ready for something different. So we headed south, as a family of four with two very energetic kids (7 and 9), to see what Sicily would throw at us.
Sicily’s incredible position between Europe and Africa has made it a melting pot of cultures for centuries, which gives the island its unique, vibrant character. Though it boasts a rich tapestry of heritage, it still often gets overlooked or left out of the typical Italian itinerary by many travellers in favour of more popular spots.
Our two-week exploration of this captivating island in Italy's deep south left me eager for more, and I am not just talking about the delicious food: arancini, cannoli, and granitas! Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, feels less like a destination and more like something you slowly uncover. To make the most of it, we split our time between two excellent bases: lively Palermo on the west coast for the first week, and the more laid-back, charming Syracuse on the east for the second.
Palermo
We rented a beautiful Airbnb in Palermo’s historic Kalsa neighbourhood, and somehow ended up with front-row seats to one of the best views in the city. The apartment sat just above the seaside promenade and the terrace of the Mura delle Cattive: a 17th-century stretch of stone that now doubles as a perfect place to linger and pretend you live there.
Just around the corner, at Butera 28, lived Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. He stayed there until his death in 1957, which adds a certain literary weight to your morning coffee run, whether you asked for it or not.
Like much of Palermo, the promenade didn’t have an easy history. It was heavily damaged during World War II and then, in classic Italian fashion, took a few decades to get its act together. Restoration finally began in 1997, and it reopened the following year. The result? A place that feels both historic and surprisingly alive.
Walking along it now, you can almost picture the old well-dressed, slightly dramatic aristocratic crowd, stepping out for their evening passeggiata. These days, the terraces are private, but the promenade itself is very much public territory, lined with spots for a drink, a granita, or something stronger if the day calls for it. And it’s never quiet. You’ve got 90-year-olds holding court like they own the place, teenagers orbiting in packs, kids running wild, and babies observing it all like tiny, judgmental emperors. Even at midnight, it’s buzzing, like the entire neighbourhood collectively agreed that sleep is optional.
Palermo, the capital and main port of Sicily, hits you all at once. It’s vibrant, a little rough around the edges, and full of personality—the kind of place that doesn’t try to impress you, but does anyway. It can feel overwhelming, especially with kids in tow, but that’s part of the deal. Palermo doesn’t ease you in; it throws you straight into it.
Chaos is part of the charm here. Traffic signs are more like gentle suggestions, and driving feels like a group improv exercise. Grand buildings, once elegant, now wear their cracks and graffiti like badges of honour. Stray dogs follow you down the poetic alleys, and self-proclaimed “security guards” promise to keep your vehicle safe (for a few Euros) as if the elderly men sitting in front of each building all day weren’t enough to ensure the area’s safety.
The piazzas are always buzzing, packed with restaurants that somehow keep finding space for one more table, even if it ends up tucked into a dimly lit side street. And people are perfectly happy about it. That’s Palermo: a bit chaotic, slightly improvised, but full of life.
The best way to get it is to stop trying to control the experience. Wander. Get lost. Follow your nose into one of the street markets, where you’ll find everything from fresh seafood of questionable origin to stigghiola - grilled lamb intestines on skewers, which sound intimidating but are surprisingly good.
Sicilian Marionettes - Opera dei Pupi
For a wonderful family-friendly outing, be sure to visit the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Piazza Antonio Pasqualino, 5, 90133 Palermo). This museum features a fascinating collection of marionettes from around the world and has the potential to become a must-see attraction with some added support.
The incredible collection of traditional Sicilian puppets is truly a sight to behold! Anyone visiting Sicily will undoubtedly notice these charming marionettes in local shops. While they might initially seem like typical tourist trinkets, these puppets are, in fact, vital symbols of Sicilian cultural identity. They play an integral role in the Opera dei Pupi, a captivating form of Sicilian entertainment that dates back to at least the 15th century.
My youngest daughter couldn’t resist spending her entire trip budget on a replica puppet, a stunning Angelica dressed in beautiful turquoise chiffon and armor.
An Eclectic Architectural Journey
Amid a touch of dirt and rubble, this island still shines as a captivating treasure trove of ancient, medieval, and Baroque architecture, sure to enchant anyone who explores its remarkable beauty.
Palermo is a delightful gem, filled with breathtaking Baroque architecture intertwined with enchanting medieval elements. In the 11th century, Robert Guiscard of the House of Hauteville set out from Normandy with his brother Roger to conquer Sicily from the Saracens. The Normans remained for over 130 years, creating remarkable monuments in the unique Norman-Sicilian style.
Today, these architectural wonders continue to impress visitors, making it a historic destination well worth exploring.
1. Cefalù Cathedral; 2-5. Monreale Cathedral
Must-see sites
These include the awe-inspiring Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral of Palermo, the Monreale Cathedral (a half-day trip that is absolutely worthwhile), Cefalù (perfect for a day trip that pairs beautifully with some beach time or exploring the medieval castle of Caccamo), and Messina (the essential port connecting Sicily to mainland Italy). Each of these locations is a testament to the rich tapestry of Sicilian history, and I couldn’t recommend them more.
Beaches
When you're in Italy with kids, a few beach days (or half-days) are non-negotiable, because let’s face it: nothing keeps the little ones happy like sun, sand, and splashing in the waves! Sicily has a whopping 1,000 kilometres (that’s about 600 miles for those not on the ‘kilometre’ train) of coastline, so you’re in for a treat.
My favourite beach was hands down Mondello: clear, beautiful water and soft sandy cove beach just west of Palermo. It seemed very popular with young Sicilians and tourists as well and a fun place to get away from the chaos of Palermo and catch some rays.
1. Mondello; 2. San Vito lo Capo; 3. Cefalù
In a close second is San Vito lo Capo, a picturesque coastal town that’s about a two-hour drive from Palermo. It’s like a scene from a postcard, nestled under Monte Cofano, a dramatic limestone cliff that looks like nature’s crown jewel. You can also explore nearby coves and the Zingaro nature reserve.
Don't miss the stunning Lungomare di Cefalù! Just a short distance from town, it offers breathtaking views that you'll absolutely love.
With all these options, you’re bound to find a spot that’s just right for soaking up the sun and pretending you don’t hear the kids arguing over who gets the last sandcastle bucket!
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