👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Pálinka is Hungary's favourite fruit rocket fuel, often dubbed the "Hungarian eau de vie" with an alcohol content that can knock your socks off (40% to 55% ABV). Authentic Pálinka is a protected geographical indication within the European Union so for a brandy to be called Pálinka, it must be mashed, distilled, and bottled in Hungary exclusively from Hungarian-grown fruit or marc . Pálinka is deeply ingrained in Hungarian hospitality and tradition. When I told my husband I was writing a post about pálinka, he immediately pulled out his phone and showed me a thread filled with pálinka memes from his Hungarian friends. According to these same individuals, making jam is often seen as a missed opportunity to produce pálinka, as all fruits can, and should be distilled into this delightful drink! Key fruits While many fruits can be used, some of the most common and popular varieties include: Apricot ( barack ) Plum ( szilva ) Pear ( körte ) Cherry ( cseresznye ) Quince ( birs ) Typically, pálinka is served as a welcoming drink at gatherings and significant celebrations, which is why they insist on providing an endless, bottomless glass. Historically, it has been viewed as a cure-all, sipped by farmers before long days of work, turning "liquid courage" into an art form. The craft of making pálinka is celebrated through various festivals, and let’s not overlook the homemade varieties, where families proudly craft their secret recipes. This often leads to spirited debates about who has the best recipe, and perhaps a few regrettable singing sessions! Hungarian Chilled Sour Cherry Soup with Pálinka - Pálinkás Meggyleves Serves 4-6 | Prep time: 5 min | Cooking time: 20 min Whenever I discuss Hungarian cuisine with my Canadian or European friends, they are always surprised to learn about Hungarian fruit soup, known as gyümölcsleves . This delightful, chilled soup is a quintessential summer dish that’s perfect for warm days! The most famous version features luscious sour cherries, but feel free to get creative with seasonal fruits like berries, peaches, and plums. It bursts with sweet and tangy flavors, making it incredibly refreshing. While it can be enjoyed warm, savoring it chilled as a starter on a hot day is truly a delightful experience. Give it a try, you’ll love it! Pálinka is an optional addition, not commonly used, and should only be consumed by those who are legally permitted to do so. Ingredients: 1 kg sour cherries or cherries or Morello cherries in light syrup, including their juice 4 Tbs sugar 1 Tbs flour 1 generous cup of sour cream 5-6 cloves 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick Zest of one lemon Pinch of salt Water 30 ml /1 oz pálinka Instructions In a large pot, combine well-washed and pitted sour cherries with double the amount of water, then add the sugar. Next, incorporate the cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, lemon peel, and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a gentle boil and let it simmer for about 25-30 minutes. After that, reduce the heat to medium-low and allow it to simmer for an additional 6-7 minutes, until the cherries soften beautifully. Remove the larger spices. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together sour cream and flour with 1/4 cup of the warm cherry liquid to create a smooth mixture. Gradually incorporate another 1/4 cup of the liquid while continuing to whisk until fully blended. Slowly mix in the remaining cherry soup, stirring continuously to avoid lumps. Finally, add the pálinka and stir to combine. Set the mixture aside to cool, then refrigerate until chilled. Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Every year during the Christmas season, I embark on a culinary adventure, exploring new recipes while also revisiting old favourites. One of our cherished holiday treats is the rich and decadent Port Poached Pear Chocolate Cake with Blue Cheese . While this combination may sound unusual to some, believe me, it’s a match made in holiday heaven. Not only is it easy to make, but it’s also incredibly impressive! The recipe has now been passed down to my daughters, who just packed their bags and fled to Montreal for university. For Thanksgiving, they concocted a student-budget-friendly version using the cheapest wine they could find. Let's just say it was a “grape” success! The Cake First, let’s discuss the cake, which serves as the rich chocolate foundation. It features a decadent, almost flourless chocolate base that is simply irresistible. I’ve made this recipe more than any other dessert, and it’s fabulous on its own or paired with a dollop of jam or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This recipe holds a special place in my heart because it was given to me by a dear friend, Lisa, who left us too soon. During her travels in France, she stayed at a bed-and-breakfast in Lyon, where the host shared this recipe with her. Lisa wrote it down for me on a purple sticky note, a keepsake that has survived 25 years in my recipe book. I cherish this note not only for the recipe itself but also for the memories it brings back of our friendship. Fortifies Wine Poached Pears The poached pears, reminiscent of elegant figures with inviting curves, as if they've just been gently embraced by a rich wine bath that elevates their natural sweetness. To achieve the perfect texture, it's key to select ripe pears ensuring they retain their lovely shape while cooking. Bosc and Anjou are fantastic choices. Now, let’s talk about the wine. A fortified dessert wine has a higher alcohol content than your average vino because it got a little help from its friend, brandy . The fortification process involves adding this distilled grape spirit to the fermenting wine, killing the yeast, leaving behind residual sugar and resulting in a sweeter and more potent, absolutely delicious final product. The most widely available fortified sweet wine is Port, from Porto, Portugal. Thats a lot of "port" in one phrase, but trust me every sip is worth every penny you have in your porte-monnaie (pardon my French!). The Ruby Port is typically the most affordable variety, though you can use Tawny port instead if you'd like. In addition to Port, there are several other delightful sweet red fortified wines to explore. These include Madeira from Portugal and various Vin Doux Naturel options from Roussillon, such as Banyul, Maury, and Rivesaltes, as well as Rasteau from the Rhône region of France. Additionally, there's Rubino Marsala from Sicily, Italy. Each of these wines has its own unique flavour profile and production methods. Port is the easiest to find in Canada and is likely the most budget-friendly option. If you haven't tried  fortified wines yet, I don't know what you're waiting for! The Blue Cheese Roquefort Société The real twist comes from incorporating blue cheese, which adds a tangy richness that elevates the entire dessert. I particularly enjoy French Roquefort among the various blue cheeses. It stands out because it is made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk and aged in natural limestone caves in Occitania, southern France. Other blue cheeses, made from cow'smilk, can serve as suitable substitutes. The famous French philosopher Diderot declared Roquefort as the “King of Cheeses” in his work,  L'Encyclopédie , during the Age of Enlightenment. While other intellectuals engaged in exploring the secrets of existence, knowledge, and the meaning of life, Diderot was busy championing sheep’s milk cheese! Après tout , who needs to unravel the mysteries of the universe when you can have a cheesy debate about the supremacy of Roquefort? Port Poached Pear Chocolate Cake with Blue Cheese Servings: 4 | Preparation: 30 minutes | Cooking: 1 hour Course: Dessert Ingredients For the Poached Pears: - 4 ripe pears - 3 cup / 750 ml port wine* - 1/4 cup / 50 grams sugar * A standard bottle of Port is 750 ml. You can use slightly less in the recipe, allowing you to enjoy some of the leftover with dessert. If you are poaching the pears in "regular" dry red wine  instead, you'll need to add more sugar to the syrup to achieve a balanced flavour. You don't have to spend a lot on the most expensive bottle; instead, choose a strong, fruity, and affordable dry red wine if you’re on a budget. Some great options to consider include Malbec, Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Gamay, or Zinfandel, or even blends of these varieties. Optional, but great: - a couple of large pieces of orange peel - 1 cinnamon stick - 2-3 whole cloves - 1 star anise For the Chocolate Cake: ( I have changed Lisa's original recipe, using one standard 100g/ 3.5 oz chocolate bar and adjusted the other ingredients accordingly. - 100 grams / 3.5 oz of dark chocolate (70% and up), a whole bar - 100 grams / 1/2 cup sugar - 100 grams /  / 1/2 cup of butter - 3 whole eggs - 3 tbsp white flour (or almond flour) - 1/8 teaspoon salt - 1/4 cup Dutch process cocoa powder (optional) - 1 teaspoon baking powder (optional) - 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional) For theTopping: 100 grams / 3.5 oz Roquefort cheese or another type of blue cheese A handful chopped toasted walnuts or pecans (optional). Instructions Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line it with parchment paper rounds. Grease the parchment paper as well; this ensures that the cakes release easily from the pans. Set aside. PEARS: Begin by peeling the pears, taking care to leave the stems intact. Cut a small bit off the bottom so the pears can stand in the pan without tipping over. I don't usually remove the seeds, but you can by using a melon baller to gently scoop out a small hole from the bottom of each one. Place the pears in a saucepan with the spices and sugar, ensuring they fit snugly. Pour in the port and water, then bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiling, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the saucepan. Let the pears poach for 45 minutes. Grab a fork and gently poke a pear to check for that perfect softness. They should feel tender yet firm enough to maintain their lovely shape. Once done, remove the pears from the poaching liquid and set them on a plate to cool down. Once the fruit and larger spices are removed, gently on low heat let the wine simmer until it reduces by half - about 15-20 minutes. You'll be rewarded with a delightful, thick port wine syrup. CAKE: Meanwhile, set another metal bowl over a pot of simmering water to create a double boiler. Melt the chocolate in the bowl. (You can also make this step in the microwave.) In a stand mixer bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until the mixture turns a pale yellow color and becomes light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating on medium speed until fully combined. Once the chocolate has melted, gradually mix it into the butter, sugar, and egg mixture. In a separate bowl, combine the dry ingredients: flour, salt, cocoa powder, instant espresso powder, and baking powder. Gradually add this mixture to the wet ingredients, one spoonful at a time, while mixing on low speed. Pour the batter into a greased 8-inch springform pan. Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes. The cake may appear slightly underdone when you take it out, which is perfectly fine. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes before removing it. Then, transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool completely. ASSEMBLY : Once the cake has cooled, use a 3-inch round cookie cutter to cut out four rounds. Place each round on its own dessert plate. Top each piece with a tablespoon of blue cheese, followed by a poached pear. Drizzle port wine glaze over the pears. For a finishing touch, sprinkle additional blue cheese and some chopped toasted walnuts or pecans on top. Happy sipping and savouring!

Liquor : Apéritif or Digestif / Cocktails | Hungary |   Website 👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. Unicum is Hungary’s most iconic herbal liqueur—one of those tonics so intense and aromatic that, after a single sip, you genuinely forget whatever it was you were trying to fix. Legend has it that when Dr. Zwack, physician to the Imperial Court, first presented the elixir to Emperor Joseph II - ruler of the Habsburg Monarchy and, for better or (mostly) worse, Hungary’s benevolent overlord back in 1790. The emperor took a brave sip and proclaimed, “Das ist ein Unikum!” History, ever gracious, insists on translating this as “How unique!” rather than the considerably more believable, “Good heavens, is this what the Hungarians have been plotting to serve me?” The company, known today as Zwack & Co., emerged from this bold experiment remarkably well and has survived nearly every plot twist history could devise: World War II, the Soviet occupation, nationalization, and even the forced emigration of the Zwack family. In 1989, as the Soviet Union collapsed and Hungary transitioned to a democratic republic, the family returned, reclaiming both the brand and the legacy that had been wrested from them. Their comeback restored Unicum not just to the shelves, but to its rightful place at the heart of Hungarian culture. Today, the company even boasts its own museum in Budapest, where visitors can explore the history, heritage, and traditions behind this iconic Hungarian spirit: unicumhaz.hu All photo credits: https://zwackunicum.hu Made with more than forty herbs and aged slowly in oak , Unicum tastes like someone bottled a witch’s garden with a dash of old-world herbal know-how: invigorating, a little mysterious, and just alarming enough to feel medicinal. Hungarians adore it. They drink it before dinner, after dinner, and anytime life calls for a little courage or an impromptu party. The plum version, Unicum Szilva , introduced in 2012, acts like Unicum’s slightly friendlier cousin. Then, in 2020, Barista Unicum arrived, clearly created for anyone who has ever wished their morning coffee and their evening digestif would join forces in one gloriously eccentric bottle. Most recently, in 2025, the brand unveiled Unicum Orange Bitter . I haven’t tasted this one yet, but honestly what could possibly go wrong when you combine citrus, herbs, and centuries of Hungarian confidence? And then there’s Unicum Riserva - arguably the show-off of the family - aged twice: first in one rather legendary cask, then again in another, as if it couldn’t possibly limit itself to a single moment of greatness. Beside it stands Unicum Trezor XO (Extra Old), a limited-edition, ultra-premium expression that spends a full decade resting in oak before getting an extra polish in French wine-spirit barrels. The result? A rich, layered flavour profile with hints of vanilla, tropical spice, oak, and chocolate, all wrapped around those forty-something herbs we’ve already met. It’s indulgence dressed as medicine, and no one’s complaining. If you visit Hungary, someone will offer you Unicum. Say yes. Smile politely. Pretend your throat isn’t staging a small revolution. You’ll earn instant respect; and possibly a second shot you didn’t ask for. Unicum Plum Credit : zwackunicum.hu For this recipe, I’m using Unicum Szilva , the plum-infused jewel of the Unicum family. The Hungarian plum - so woven into the country’s cooking and preserving traditions - turns out to be an unexpectedly graceful match for a liqueur whose roots stretch back more than 230 years. The base formula stays sacred, of course. The same generations-old herbal recipe, the same slow ageing in oak casks, nothing about classic Unicum is altered. Instead, Szilva simply adds another layer. First, it rests on a bed of prunes, taking on a round, dark fruit softness; then it returns to the casks, where everything settles into something smoother, lighter, and quietly fruit-forward. It’s unmistakably Unicum, just with a slightly gentler presence—34.5% alcohol and carrying itself with the calm, polished confidence you’d expect from a spirit with this much history behind it. Let’s Talk About the Recipe and the Ingredients There’s something about duck  legs - the richness, the depth of flavour - that makes them my undisputed favourite. When “duck” appears on a menu, I don’t so much decide as surrender. I close the menu, smile, and say, “The duck, please,” with absolute certainty and no regrets. We really ought to cook duck more often. Duck legs are almost impossible to mess up—honestly, they’re one of the most forgiving things you can put in a pan. A little salt, a little pepper, some heat, and suddenly you’re turning out something that tastes like it wandered straight out of a Michelin kitchen. If only our grocery stores reflected this magic. It’s one of Canada’s quiet culinary injustices: a country bursting with ducks and geese, yet most supermarkets offer barely a hint of them. The glorious exception, of course, is Québec, where the duck section is a thing of beauty. We once visited a farm on Île d’Orléans, just outside Québec City, the Domaine Sainte-Famille, a family-run vineyard, cider house, and all-around flavour haven. They make cider, maple treats, wine, cheese and raise ducks. Wandering through felt a bit like opening a Québécois treasure chest. The island is often called the “cradle of French America,” and its history goes all the way back to Jacques Cartier’s arrival in 1535. Many French Canadians can trace their roots to those early settlers-people who, judging by the place they chose, clearly had impeccable taste. While we were there, we almost got to try the famous foie gras poutine from La Roulotte du Coin in Sainte-Famille. I say almost because we ordered one portion—just to “sample” it. Then looked away for what could not have been more than three seconds. When we turned back, the foie gras had disappeared. Vanished. Poof. Just the potatoes remained, looking back at us with tragic, greasy resignation and a little embarrassed. I will not name the culprit, of course - she is terribly sensitive - and besides, she maintains it was simply “some chewy thing” and has no idea why we reacted like a tiny culinary disaster had just unfolded. To be fair, she did eventually blossom into a responsible, fully fledged gourmet adult - but at the time, her palate was still in its unruly adolescence and entirely unprepared for the sanctity of foie gras. Back to the duck, shall we! Duck is both exquisite and nourishing: rich in protein, high in iron, and abundant in heart-friendly omega-3 and omega-6 fats, it’s a dish that delivers comfort and elegance in equal measure. Choosing duck isn’t merely a culinary indulgence; it’s a small act of well-being, beautifully disguised as dinner. Duck pairs wonderfully with sweet accompaniments of every persuasion—think plump cherries, caramelized figs, bright citrus, or even a silky fruit reduction that makes the whole dish feel celebratory; and of course, plums . This vibrant, spice-laden baked plums brings depth, balance, and a bright thread of acidity to rich roasted duck legs, creating a dish that’s as polished in flavour as it is striking on the table. The addition of Unicum, especially the szilva (plum) variety, adds an even deeper, more intriguing layer of bitterness and sweetness, making the whole dish feel wonderfully complex and unmistakably special. When a touch of sweetness sneaks into one of my main dishes, especially anything rich or meaty, I quietly set the potatoes aside and call in the parsnips . Their earthy sweetness purées into something silky and balanced, the kind of side dish that gently corrects the entire plate. The first time I made parsnip purée, I immediately began questioning my life choices. How on earth have I - and frankly, most of humanity - been eating more potatoes than parsnips? Parsnips are more flavourful, lower in calories, higher in fibre and vitamin C, and ridiculously easy to prepare. I urge you to give them a try. (My apologies to potatoes, but someone had to say it.) Roasted Duck Legs with Red Wine Jus, Unicum Plum Compote & Parsnip Purée Serves 4 | Prep time: 30 min | Cooking time: 2 hours The plums 500 grams / 1 lb plums, preferably with crimson flesh 250 ml/ 1 cup red wine 110 g / 1/2 cup brown sugar (or more if you like more sweetness) 1 cinnamon stick 5-10 cloves Preheat the oven to 160°C / 320 F. Halve and pit the plums, then place them in a roasting tin large enough to hold them in a single layer. Arrange the pitted and halved plums in a baking dish cut-side up. Pour the wine over the plums, sprinkle with brown sugar and add the spices. Bake until tender (about 20 minutes). Keep the plums covered and reserve the juices to make the red wire reduction (see below). The duck 4 duck legs 6-8 garlic cloves Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 5 sprigs rosemary (optional) 60 ml / 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock or water Preheat the oven to 180°C / 360°F. Season the duck legs generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper, ensuring even coverage. Add a 50 ml / 1/5 cup chicken or vegetable stock or water to a heavy roasting pan or Dutch oven . Arrange the duck legs, skin side up, in a single layer. Nestle in the rosemary sprigs and garlic cloves, allowing their aromatics to infuse the meat as it cooks. Cover tightly with a lid or foil and roast for 1 hour , until the duck is tender and the fat has rendered. Remove the cover and continue roasting for about 20 minutes , or until the skin achieves a deep, even golden crispness. Transfer the duck to a platter and keep it warm until assembly. You can either discard the aromatics (garlic and herbs), or add them to the wine reduction if you’d like a deeper, earthier flavour. Carefully strain off the rendered duck fat and reserve it for the red-wine reduction (see below). The red wine reduction Duck fat from rendering the legs  (see above) Jus from the plum compote (see above) 125 ml / 1/2 cup red wine 60 ml / 1/4 cup Unicum Szilva (plum) 1-2 shallots, minced 30-45 grams / 2-3 tablespoon cold butter 1 tbsp sugar or to taste Salt to taste After cooking the duck legs, use the rendered fat to sauté the finely chopped shallot until soft and lightly caramelized. Deglaze the pan with the red wine, scraping up any browned bits (fond) from the bottom of the pan. Add the jus from the plum compote along with the Unicum Szilva, sugar, and salt. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by at least half and thickened. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, pressing the shallots firmly with the back of a spoon to extract all their liquid. Return the strained sauce to the saucepan. Whisk in the cold butter at the end, then simmer the sauce over medium heat for another 5–10 minutes to achieve a glossy, rich finish. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately. The parsnips purée 450 g / 1 lb parsnips, peeled and cut into 3 cm / 1-inch chunks 1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled 250 ml / 1 cup milk or half-and-half cream (12- 18%) 30 g / 2 tbsp unsalted butter 3 g / ½ tsp salt or to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Place the peeled and cut parsnips, salt and garlic in a medium saucepan with the milk/cream. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook for 12–15 minutes, or until the parsnips are very tender when pierced with a fork. Add the butter. Purée to perfection by using an immersion blender, blend until completely smooth and silky. If you don’t have an immersion blender, use a food processor or blender for the smoothest result. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed: Stir in the salt, a few grinds of black pepper To serve Arrange the roasted duck legs on warm plates and spoon over the glossy wine-and-Unicum reduction. Add a generous spoonful of the spiced baked plums alongside, letting their syrup mingle with the sauce. Finish the plate with a cloud of parsnip purée for balance and contrast. Serve immediately, while everything is fragrant, tender, and irresistibly warm. Wine pairing suggestions This dish calls for a wine with enough structure to stand up to the richness of duck, enough acidity to cut through the sweetness of the plums, and enough aromatic depth to play nicely with the Unicum’s spice and herbal backbone. 1. Sicilian Reds (Nero d’Avola, Cerasuolo di Vittoria) - $/$$ Bold yet bright, these wines offer dark cherry, spice, and just the right amount of earthiness. Their acidity balances the duck fat while their fruit echoes the roasted plums. Ideal match: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG , a juicy, elegant, and not too heavy, a vibrant, spicy, cherry-forward, and incredibly duck-friendly. You can read my post about this wine here! 2. Hungarian Reds (Kékfrankos & Bikaver) - $/$$ Following the What grows together, goes together culinary principle , these are great thematic and delicious choices: Peter Wetzer K é kfrankos, 2022 You can read my full post about this grape and its winemaker! Kékfrankos (aka   Blaufränkisch)  brings spice, acidity, and red berry brightness that complement the sauce’s herbal and plum notes. Heimann & Fiai Szekszárd Bikavér 2022 It's a modern reinterpretation of the classic Bikavér (Bull's Blood) blended with a high percentage of Kékfrankos, a key grape of the region, combined with other varieties like Kadarka, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. The wine is known for its vibrant red fruit notes, nuanced spices, and balanced character. 3. Pinot Noir - $$/$$$ Pinot Noir practically flirts with duck. Choose one with a bit of forest floor and bright red fruit. The subtle herbal notes also weave seamlessly into the Unicum-infused sauce. Personal recommendations: a classic Burgundy or something elegant from Alto Adige. You can read my post about the wonderful region of Alto Adige here. 4. Northern Rhône Syrah - $$$ A classic partner to duck. Peppery, smoky, and beautifully structured, with enough freshness to keep pace with the dish’s sweetness and richness. Look for Saint-Joseph, Cornas  or Côte-Rôtie. A post is imminent—after all, the Northern Rhône is one of my absolute favourite French wine regions (and wines) of all time! Happy sipping and savouring!

👩‍🍳 — Jump to recipe, but fair warning: you’ll miss all my brilliantly unnecessary (and deeply entertaining) ranting. High in the Vaud Alps, Switzerland ’s unhurried, broad-shouldered cows spend their summers meandering through wildflower meadows, casually converting mountain herbs and hours of Alpine sunshine into the milk behind Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP.* When autumn draws its first cool line across the ridges, everything shifts. The cows leave the high pastures and return with milk that’s richer, denser, and simply too luxurious for the big alpine wheels of Gruyère d’Alpage. And that’s when another cheese takes its turn: Vacherin Mont-d’Or , the soft, spoonable winter specialty the Swiss await each year with the kind of enthusiasm usually reserved for a limited-edition seasonal release. Elegant, fleeting, and just a touch theatrical, Vacherin appears only in the colder months, turning cold evenings into an alpine ritual of warmth, aroma, and slow-melting luxury. * For cheese, the European Union’s Appellation d’Origine Protégée —AOP—is the same certification system used for wine. I lived in Switzerland, right in the Canton of Vaud, where this cheese is born, for nearly a decade, and in that time I picked up a pretty solid appreciation for the local dairy magic. I’m no official expert, but I am a devoted cheese enthusiast, and if I ever had to choose between cheese and… well, most other things, cheese would win with embarrassing ease. And Vacherin Mont-d’Or? That wasn’t merely cheese. It was a seasonal ritual—a cultural countdown. Every autumn, the moment it reappeared on shop shelves, the Swiss didn’t just smile (a noteworthy event on its own); they positively beamed . In wine terms, it carried all the fanfare of Beaujolais Nouveau : that annual “It’s here!!” frenzy. Only instead of sprinting for the first bottle, everyone hurried toward a spruce-bound box of gloriously molten dairy. So yes, I may have moved away, but Switzerland’s most eagerly awaited winter cheese still lives rent-free in my heart… and, if we’re being honest, almost certainly in my cholesterol. One note: these seasonal superstars shouldn’t be confused with Le Gruyère AOP, one of the world’s most celebrated cheeses and essentially Switzerland in dairy form. It, too, takes its name from the medieval town of Gruyères —long considered one of the country’s great cheesemaking centres, where expertise has been honed and handed down for generations. Gruyère - Photo: Rich Martello Speaking of Gruyère, here’s a fun little anecdote: I jokingly call myself an honorary Gruyèroise, and for a mildly ridiculous reason. When my sister and I visited the region, we went for a stroll and somehow got mistaken for locals by a group of very enthusiastic Japanese tourists. They were absolutely convinced we were “authentic Swiss mountain women,” even though we’re Hungarian and about as Alpine as a paprika plant. They insisted we pose in their photos. So somewhere in Japan, several families have immaculate Swiss holiday albums featuring cows, emerald hillsides, and… two girls from Budapest smiling like we’ve just stepped off the packaging of an artisanal Swiss chocolate bar. Iconic, honestly! (They snapped a photo for us too - Arigatō!) A Brief (and Very Mysterious) History Vacherin Mont-d’Or has been crafted in the Vallée de Joux for over a century, though no one can quite agree who invented it. One local tale claims a French soldier marched in during the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and basically said, “Bonjour, here’s a recipe.” This seems plausible since the French Jura next door makes a very similar cheese. But then-plot twist-evidence showed the Swiss were making it as early as 1812. So the mystery remains, and the cheese refuses to explain itself. France later shortened the name to “Mont d’Or,” while Switzerland politely refused and kept the full, dignified “Vacherin Mont-d’Or.” So basically, Vacherin refers to a group of cheeses from both France and Switzerland.The key difference is that the French version, the Vacherin du Haut-Doubs is made with unpasteurized raw milk , while the Swiss version Vacherin Mont d'Or AOP   is made with thermized milk ( heated to 57–68 °C /135–154 °F for at least 15 seconds , this isn’t the same as pasteurization, since it doesn’t eliminate all harmful bacteria. ) Also, not to be confused with Vacherin Fribourgeois, the firmer, year-round Swiss cheese that often sneaks into fondue pots. Why it's seasonal? In spring and summer, the cows are out living their alpine best: grazing on wildflowers, wandering sunny pastures, and producing plenty of milk for their calves. Once autumn settles in, the calves stop coming and the milk supply naturally drops. What’s left is richer and creamier, no longer quite right for Gruyère d’Alpage but perfect for the smaller, more luxurious vacherins (their name comes from vache , French for “cow”). Even though modern dairying could stretch the season, Swiss regulations insist that Vacherin Mont-d’Or still be made the traditional way: only in the cold months, only when the milk changes on its own. That commitment to old-school methods is exactly what earns it its AOP status. Production is allowed only from August 15 to March 31 and Vacherin is only sold from September 10 (to be precise like a Swiss watch) to April, making it the alphorn solo of seasonal cheeses: rare, unmistakable, and loudly adored. Every year in Les Charbonnières , the proud birthplace of Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP, the village hosts an annual celebration honoring both the homecoming cows and its famously oozy winter cheese. Around 6,000 visitors gather for this warmly spirited alpine fête, complete with artisan stalls, hands-on workshops, and alphorn players sending bright, echoing notes across the valley like Switzerland’s most courteous loudspeakers. And naturally, the cheesemakers offer free tastings of the season’s first Vacherin, because nothing unites a crowd quite as swiftly as mountains, music, and a spoonful of molten cheese before noon. How it's made? Mignot Fromagerie Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP begins its life as heat-treated milk from cows who dine mostly on grass and hay. The milk gets gently heated, the curd is pressed, then wrapped in a spruce band that acts like nature’s corset. After a brine bath, the young cheeses chill on spruce boards for at least 17 days while being flipped, washed, and generally pampered. Finally, each cheese is squeezed into a slightly-too-small spruce box—on purpose—so it develops those wiggly, wavy edges by adding that signature woodsy flavour. The result is a soft, often gloriously runny cheese that tastes lightly salty, a little whey-ish, and wonderfully woody thanks to its stylish bark belt. It comes either whole in its iconic spruce box or sliced if you prefer your cheese pre-opened. How to eat it? Vacherin Mont-d’Or is a wonderfully versatile cheese, equally charming when enjoyed chilled with rustic bread and wine or when transformed into something warmly indulgent. Its iconic preparation is the baked version—a wintertime favourite that delivers deep comfort with minimal preparation and almost no cleanup. Baked Vacherin Mont-d’Or Serves two very happy people Ingredients: 500 g/1 lb small potatoes Fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary, sage—whatever smells pleasantly foresty) 1 Vacherin Mont-d’Or AOP 100 ml white wine Instructions: Keep the cheese in its little spruce-wood box and wrap the whole thing in aluminum foil. Use a fork to poke a few holes in the rind, then drizzle in the white wine. Add the herbs-tuck in little sprigs or scatter finely chopped ones on top. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C / 390°F for about 25 minutes , until the cheese is irresistibly oozy. Boil the potatoes while you wait. Serve it fondue-style: dip the potatoes straight into the molten cheese, or tear into some good crusty bread. Both are correct choices. Enjoy—ideally while pretending you’re snowed in somewhere in the Vaud Alps. Now the wines! Chasselas - Where Alpine purity meets effortless charm This molten Alpine marvel demands wines with character—no wallflowers allowed—and it certainly expects its companions to share the spotlight with grace. If you ask the local Vaudois what belongs beside Vacherin Mont-d’Or, they won’t hesitate for even half a heartbeat: Chasselas. To them, it isn’t merely a pairing; it’s practically a regional law. And honestly, they’re onto something. Chasselas, Switzerland’s most prominent and be loved white wine grape, and proudly homegrown , is light, clean, and delightfully unfussy, which makes it the perfect companion for a cheese that shows up in a spruce box and immediately starts melting like it owns the room. Where Vacherin is rich, cozy, and woodsy, Chasselas is refreshing and quietly clever. It balances every decadent bite without demanding attention. Chasselas in Switzerland answering to multiple aliases: Gutedel  in Germany, Fendant  in Valais, and “How am I supposed to fit chocolate and cheese AND wine in my suitcase?!” from unsuspecting tourists. Its style is delicate and nuanced, offering soft whispers of apple, pear, citrus, the occasional floral flourish, and often a fine mineral streak shaped by the Alpine terroir. It’s famous for playing nicely with food rather than overpowering it, especially classic Swiss cheese dishes and local freshwater fish. Deeply rooted in Swiss wine history since the 17th century, Chasselas thrives in cool climates and chalky soils, making it the country’s most widespread white grape, particularly in Vaud, Valais, Geneva, and the Trois-Lacs region (Neuchâtel’s Non-Filtré). Outside Switzerland, Chasselas is produced in Germany, France, as well as in Chile, Brazil, and New Zealand and Canada. Swiss wine regions: Lavaux, Chablais  and Valais: In Canada , however, Swiss Chasselas can be surprisingly elusive. In Alberta, it feels almost mythological; even dedicated researchers of Swiss wines have trouble spotting it lately. Thankfully, Canada has its own Chasselas chapter in the Okanagan Valley. St. Hubertus (Kelowna) produces the grape: bone-dry, crisp, and clean, with citrus and gentle grassy notes that make it wonderfully food-friendly. Founded in 1984 by Swiss-born Leo Gebert, the winery brought unmistakably Swiss winemaking sensibilities to the Okanagan. Meanwhile, at Quails’ Gate (West Kelowna), Chasselas plays a starring role in one of their iconic white blends, joined by Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. The result is a bright, fruit-lifted wine celebrated for its lemon, pear, and honeydew character. Now, if you can't get any Chasselas, try: Aromatic whites : Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Viognier anything with a bit of perfume also get along famously with the cheese’s woodsy aroma. If you want something a touch more dramatic, an older dry Riesling or Semillon (the sort that’s been contemplating life for 15 to 20 years) brings smoky, layered notes that echo the cheese’s depth in a very civilized way. Wines from Jura: Vin Jaune, Savagnin, or a Côtes du Jura Chardonnay have the kind of poised acidity that cuts through Vacherin’s richness while pretending not to notice how indulgent it is. Champagne is always a reliable companion. Its crisp bubbles brighten the cheese, almost like someone sweeping open the curtains in a very opulent room. And if Champagne isn’t on hand, any good créman t or other sparkling wine will bring that same lively lift. For red wine lovers, a gentle Gamay or Pinot Noir offers bright fruit without elbowing the cheese out of the spotlight. Other beverages Beers: Belgian ales and wheat beers pair nicely with Vacherin’s earthy character, they feel like friendly neighbours dropping by with good manners and better intentions. Ciders: dry or lightly sweet ciders bring out the creamy, subtly woody notes, giving the whole experience a charming, orchard-in-late-autumn energy. Vacherin Mont-d’Or pairs beautifully with non-alcoholic drinks that refresh the palate (acidic, sparkling, or bitter) or complement the cheese’s cozy, woodsy character of the cheese’s creamy, earthy richness. – Sparkling apple or pear juice (a Champagne-like effect) – Sparkling teas (rosé or blanc styles) – Italian sodas or fruit spritzes – Pomegranate juice for a tart contrast – Herbal or black tea– Spiced apple cider – Kombucha (bright, tangy, and bubbly) – Non-alcoholic crisp whites Happy sipping and savouring!

Sicily is Italy’s largest wine region and boasts a diverse array of exquisite wines that reflect its rich terroir and cultural heritage. While there are numerous options to explore, I will highlight just a few exceptional selections that you can readily find in local stores here in Alberta, Canada. Sicily has always been a highly sought-after land. Throughout history, Greeks, Phoenicians, Arabs, and Italians have all left their mark on this vibrant island. The Greeks, in particular, introduced advanced viticulture techniques, and Sicilians have been cultivating wine since around 4000 BC. The island's dry and warm climate, characterized by consistent sunshine and moderate rainfall, creates the perfect environment for wine production. A renewed interest in the 1980s spurred advancements in viticulture and winemaking techniques. Today, Sicily boasts some of the most exciting wine labels in Italy, reflecting the island's rich heritage and renewed commitment to quality. White: Pietradolce Archineri Etna Bianco DOC Pietradolce Archineri Etna Bianco DOC is a white wine from Sicily, made with 100% Carricante grapes that have been having a good time on ancient vines along the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. It offers a playful bouquet of grapefruit, herbs, and citrus, all balanced with zesty acidity and a splash of minerality. This wine is so structured and tasty that it practically demands to be paired with seafood, light fish, and any dish that screams freshness. Grape:  100% Carricante Origin:  Etna DOC, specifically the Milo sub-zone on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy  Terroir:  Grown on pre-phylloxera vines in mineral-rich volcanic soil, often at high elevations  Aromas:  Grapefruit, herbs, white peach, orange blossom, and Meyer lemon  Palate:  Fresh, flavourful, and mineral-driven with vibrant acidity, described as crystalline & structured  Finish:  Long and flavourful  Style:  Structured, full-bodied, and complex, yet agile  Food pairings: Seafood (grilled or fresh fish, poached or steamed), shellfish, seafood pasta (particularly those with citrus or herb-based sauces), white meat, grilled vegetables (those with citrus or herbs like fennel), risotto (especially seafood or vegetable risotto), soft cheese, appetizers: Serve with fish-based appetizers or finger foods.  White: Peri Peri Liolà Zibibbo (Terre Siciliane), 2024 Peri Peri’s Liolà Zibibbo is everything I love about Sicilian aromatics bottled with intent. It opens with orange blossom, lemon zest, and that unmistakable sea-kissed salinity that feels like standing on a warm terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. On the palate, it’s bright and crisp, with citrus, white peach, and a subtle herbal note that keeps everything lively. It’s a wine that tastes like sunshine with opinions — vibrant, aromatic, and quietly urging you to drop everything and move somewhere coastal. Perfect with seafood, herbs, and any dish that benefits from a little Sicilian lift. Name inspiration: "Peri Peri" refers to ancient travellers, while "Liolà" is a reference to a character in a Pirandello play, embodying a carefree spirit Grape:  100% Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria), Organic Origin : Peri Peri, in Sciacca, in the province of Agrigento, Sicily Aromas : rich and complex bouquet of tropical fruits (pineapple, mango), orange blossom, jasmine, and herbs. Palate: Dry and fresh, with tropical flavors, a slight grapey character, and a long finish. Acidity: Crisp and zesty, with a mineral edge. Finish: Long and persistent. Alcohol:  12.5% ABV Style: Aromatic and floral Food pairings: Seafood: Raw fish or shellfish / Grilled seafood or shellfish Grilled vegetables Spicy dishes: It can stand up to the spice of dishes because its fruitiness and acidity provide a palate-cleansing effect. Sweet: Assuli Passito Grillo Credit: assuli.it Another great wine form the Assuli winery, this time a sweet, passito-style dessert wine made from 100% Grillo grapes. It is known for its complex aromas of citrus and honey, and a palate with notes of dried figs and candied fruit. Grape: 100% Grillo   Style: Passito (a sweet wine made from dried grapes)  Producer: Assuli winery in Sicily, Italy  Production: Grapes are withered on trellises after harvest, then aged in steel on fine lees for 7-8 months, followed by at least 12 months of bottle aging  Appearance: Bright golden yellow color  Aroma: A complex and intense bouquet of Sicilian citrus, honey, and herbal notes  Palate: Soft, elegant, and seductive, with a notable nuance of dried figs and candied fruit  Food pairing: Traditional Sicilian sweets: The wine is a perfect match for desserts from its native region, such as cannoli, cassata, or almond-paste pastries; dried fruits and nuts (dried figs, apricots, dates, and a platter of almonds and hazelnuts), rich custards (crème brûlée or caramel-flavoured desserts), dark chocolate; Cheese pairings: Ricotta and goat cheese, aged cheeses, blue cheese (Gorgonzola) Savoury pairings: foie gras and fried savoury foods Mediterranean dishes: for a less traditional but still delightful pairing, try it with savory dishes that include honey and nuts.  Red: Assuli Furioso Perricone Credit: assuli.it A lively, richly flavoured Perricone red wine from the sun-kissed vineyards of Assuli winery in Sicily, crafted from authentic indigenous Sicilian grapes: Perricone. With its eye-catching ruby red color and enchanting scents of ripe red fruits, graphite, and violet, it excites the palate. Its harmonious taste is enhanced by gentle tannins. Plus, the name "Furioso" pays homage to the legendary Orlando, one of the characters of the Sicilian marionette theatre I talked about here . Orlando Furioso (or The Frenzy of Orlando) is an epic poem (1516) by Ludovico Ariosto. Set during the conflict between Charlemagne's Christian knights and the Saracens, it intertwines stories of love, war, and magic. The follows the knight Orlando, a key paladin in Charlemagne's army, who goes mad from unrequited love for the pagan princess Angelica. Alcohol content:  Typically around 14.5% ABV Grape:  100% Perricone Producer:  Assuli winery in Sicily, Italy  Origin:  Grown in Mazara del Vallo, Sicily, in clay, pebble, and limestone soils Winemaking:  Fermentation lasts for 25-30 days, followed by aging in large oak barrels for 12 months, and then an additional 12 months in the bottle before release Food pairing: Grilled, roasted or stewed meats (lamb, beef, or pork), meat-based pasta sauces (ragù/bolognese), roasted and spiced poultry, spicy dishes, medium-aged cheeses, hearty mushroom risotto and Caponata: a classic Sicilian eggplant dish with a sweet and sour sauce that matches the wine's depth. Red: Etna Rosso Moganazzi A distinctive red wine hailing from the Etna Rosso D.O.C . territory in Sicily. Etna Rosso D.O.C. is a red wine from the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, Italy, made primarily from Nerello Mascalese grapes with up to 20% Nerello Cappuccio. These wines are known for their ruby colour, mineral-rich volcanic soil terroir, and complex aromas of red berries, spices, and florals, with a fresh acidity and elegant structure.They are often described as having a mineral, fresh, and balanced profile.  Origin: Moganazzi cru on the north side of Mount Etna, Sicily Grape: 100% Nerello Mascalese  Vineyard: 1.5-hectare vineyard with vines aged 70-90 years  Soil: Volcanic soil rich in ashes and stones  Flavour Profile: Expect notes of red and black fruit (cherry and raspberry), spices (cinnamon and liquorice), dried herbs, and a mineral/smoky quality from the volcanic soil  Style: Medium-bodied with brisk acidity, elegant tannins, and a long, perfumed finish  Food Pairing: The winery is specifically noted for pairing well with pork. Also: Pasta with red sauce, pizza, roasted or grilled chicken, beef tenderloin and Sicilian meatloaf, swordfish and oily fish, eggplant, roasted vegetables and earthy mushroom risotto or ricotta-filled ravioli, aged cheeses (like aged Pecorino and Provolone) and charcuterie. Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG The story of Planeta’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG brings together Sicily’s ancient winemaking heritage and the Planeta family’s modern pursuit of excellence. Although the family has deep agricultural roots on the island, their contemporary winemaking adventure began only in the mid-1980s , when Diego Planeta set out to showcase the incredible diversity of Sicilian terroirs by pairing each landscape with the grapes that suit it best. This journey eventually led the family to the Dorilli estate, in the historic Vittoria region of southeastern Sicily, celebrated for its distinctive soils and long-standing agricultural traditions. It is also home to Sicily’s only DOCG wine , a testament to both its pedigree and its unique identity. Planeta embraced this heritage by focusing exclusively on the region’s indigenous grapes—Nero d’Avola and Frappato —whose contrasting personalities create the signature harmony of Cerasuolo di Vittoria. The wine’s name comes from the Sicilian dialect word for cherry, “cerasa,” a nod to its vivid cherry-red hue. Grapes: A blend of 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato. Aromas: Cherry blossom, raspberry, blood orange, black tea, wild fruits, and hints of pencil shavings. Taste: A mix of macerated cherries, raspberries, and savory, peppery notes with a rounded, savory finish of mulberry, black pepper, and carob. Body and Acidity: Medium-bodied with bright, refreshing acidity, a silky texture, and supple tannins. Finish: A savoury, rounded finish with lingering notes of mulberry and black pepper. Food pairing: A very gastronomic wine that pairs well with a wide range of dishes. Serving temperature: Serve lightly chilled, at 15–17°C (59–63°F) , to highlight its vibrancy and aromatic detail. Red: Nero Ossidiana Nero Ossidiana is a rich red blend of Corinto Nero and Nero d'Avola grapes produced by the Tenuta di Castellaro winery on the volcanic island of Lipari, Italy. The name "Nero Ossidiana," meaning "Black Obsidian," reflects the island’s geological heritage and the unique volcanic glass found in its soil. About the Wine Terroir: The volcanic and maritime terroir of the Aeolian Islands , located off the coast of Sicily, imparts a distinctive salinity and minerality to the wine. The unique characteristics of the soil play a key role in shaping its flavor profile. Production: The grapes are harvested from head-trained, dry-farmed bush vines. They undergo a long maceration with the skins, followed by fermentation using naturally occurring yeasts. Aging: After fermentation, the wine is aged for about a year in a combination of steel tanks and barrels. This process helps maintain its fresh fruit character while adding complexity. Flavour Profile: The wine is known for its notes of dark fruits like black cherry, blackberry, and plum, complemented by earthy, spicy, and saline undertones derived from the volcanic soil. Tasting and Pairings Color: In the glass, the wine exhibits a deep ruby red or purplish-red hue. Aroma: Aromatic notes include tart cherry, dried strawberry, spice, and a minerality reminiscent of salty volcanic rock. Pairings: Grilled, roasted or stewed meats, kebabs ( lamb, and game such as boar),s wordfish, Pasta with a rich tomato-based meat sauce and vegetable dishes such as Eggplant Parmigiana , risotto with vegetables, mushroom dishes, aged cheeses (Pecorino Siciliano) and Dark chocolate with sea salt. Happy sipping and savouring!

When people daydream about an 8-month sabbatical in France, most people immediately picture the vibrant streets of Paris, bustling with life, with its iconic landmarks and vibrant café culture. Others might picture themselves lounging on the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean along the stunning Côte d'Azur, bien sûr . However, few think of the serene beauty of the Alpine valleys, where majestic mountains tower above lush green meadows and tranquil streams flow through picturesque villages, all while you breathe in the crisp mountain air. Now, if you’re in France specifically to learn about wine, Haut-Savoie, averaging an altitude of around 1,500 meters (that is 4921.26 feet to be precise), probably won’t be at the top of your vino bucketo listo , unless you are a high-altitude wine aficionado. But that's almost exactly where we ended up! Well, I said "almost" because we were actually closer to Grenoble, but hey, still solidly in the Alps! My husband, the true wine whisperer of the family, prefers to remain incognito—like a secret agent but with a corkscrew. He spent a season at the Domaine Dupraz winery in Savoie, where long, fulfilling days in the vineyards left him both tired and inspired by the breathtaking mountain scenery. One day, he took a moment to admire the view and, with his charmingly limited French, told the winemaker, Maxime, " Wow, what an absolutely gorgeous view you get to enjoy every single day!" The winemaker looked at him puzzled, and said with his charmingly limited English, "These are just some peaks." Well, those "some peaks" are actually the most majestic snow-capped ridges of the French Alps! I guess you can become accustomed to everything, even the most breathtaking beauty that leaves others in awe. Domaine Dupraz Nestled at an altitude of 350 to 450 meters (1100-1500 feet) on steep hillsides, Domaine Dupraz is a family-run vineyard located in the Reposoir area of Apremont. The estate benefits from a unique terroir, and its vines have been passed down from father to son since 1880, perfectly expressing the distinct climates of Savoie. Domaine Dupraz produces Altesse and Mondeuse, but they are particularly passionate about Jacquère, which the winemaker describes as “a veritable mirror of the terroir.”  The winery is certified organic since 2021. "some peaks" | Photo credit: Domaine Dupraz , Apremont, Savoie, France Bastille Day Celebration with the P étanque u Club in Chignin That year, when my husband worked at Apremont, July 14, Bastille Day, landed on a Saturday. You know, the French national holiday where everyone pretends to know how to be a revolutionary? We thought it’d be the ideal time for a little adventure, just the two of us, since the kids were off gallivanting in Hungary with friends. With the epic planning skills of a seasoned traveler and living in France for a few month by then, we packed up the car with a full tank of gas and snacks, considering we were AN HOUR away from civilization, and, I repeat, on a French! National! Holiday! We set off with high hopes, only to soon realize that nothing was open—not even the bakery just over the pass where my husband used to pick up his daily bread. I mean, his croissant, which he insisted was the best in France for reasons that defied logic, since it had no competition within a 50-kilometre radius in these mountains. Still, the breathtaking scenery felt like something out of a postcard—if postcards could cry over the absence of wine and food, that is. As we wandered through the charming village of Chignin, nestled at the foot of the Bauges Mountains, it struck me that we might end this day sorely lacking in vinous pleasures. Then, the universe delivered: we stumbled upon a group of gents who were deep into their Bastille Day celebrations. They introduced themselves as the local Pétanque / Boules Club. Yes, that’s right—men tossing metal balls around while looking mysteriously dignified. They embraced us like we were long-lost cousins and, best of all, they brought out enough local wine to put an entire vineyard to shame! I mean, who needs dinner when you have a tasting party in a park with a bunch of friendly French dudes? Thanks to the boules club, I had a tasting experience that could only be topped by winning their game—if only I had a clue how to play! Here’s a family photo to commemorate the day—because nothing says “romantic getaway” like an impromptu wine fest with a bunch of strangers playing with metal balls! Already, let’s get back to the important stuff, shall we? A Tapestry of Indigenous Alpine Wine Varietals Altesse, Roussette, Gringet, and Mondeuse may sound like names of performers from a Belle Époque cabaret in Paris, but they are actually exquisite grape varieties from the Savoie region in France. This lesser-known wine region in the Alps is renowned for its crisp, high-acid white wines and lighter-bodied reds, which are often made from these unique local grapes. Most of Savoie wine is guzzled down by locals or ski tourists, who seem to think it's essential for surviving the slopes. As a result, sadly, it barely makes an appearance on the international market. In Savoie each grape variety tells a unique story! Starting with the standout white grapes, Jacquère takes the spotlight as the most popular choice, crafting delightful, light-bodied white wines brimming with zesty citrus and crisp green apple flavours. You'll often find these refreshing wines gracing the tables of the delightful Apremont and Abymes crus, making every sip a celebration! Then we have Altesse ( aka Roussette) , renowned for its ability to create full-bodied white wines that are as intriguing as they are delicious, featuring beautiful notes of honey, nuts, and exotic fruits. Roussanne , known locally as Bergeron, brings a richer profile to the mix. This Rhône variety flourishes in the Chignin-Bergeron cru, delivering structured white wines with enchanting aromas of stone fruits and honeysuckle-perfect for those who enjoy a more complex tasting experience! Chasselas  is cultivated on the French side of Lake Geneva (although it is also found on the Swiss side, which is a different story to tell), producing delicate white wines with floral elegance. Moving on to the reds, Mondeuse is the iconic grape of Savoie, creating dark, peppery wines that are full of character. The best expressions of this grape boast impressive aging potential, promising even more delightful discoveries with time. Gamay offers a lighter touch with its fruity and approachable qualities, while the rare Persan grape is making a heartwarming comeback, capturing the spirit of this region’s rich viticultural history. The diverse wine styles of Savoie can be find under famous appellations like Vin de Savoie AOC, Apremont, Chignin-Bergeron, Arbin, Roussette de Savoie AOC, and the exciting new Crémant de Savoie AOC, known for its exquisite sparkling wines. Wines from Domaine Jean-François Quénard and Domaine de la Chancelière, both in Chignin, Savoie I hope this brief glimpse into Savoie’s unique wine landscape inspires you to explore this lesser-known gem of France, whether you're a wine enthusiast or simply seeking the region's stunning natural beauty and charming atmosphere! Happy sipping and savouring!

I may have shared this previously, but we were fortunate to spend a few months in France - where we not only perfected our ability to eat cheese and baguettes like a pro, but also toured some charming wineries. O ne of the highlights was Château de la Roche aux Moines, the estate of celebrated winemaker Nicolas Joly . The surname "Joly," which translates to "pretty" or "cheerful," perfectly captures the joy we experienced during our time at this remarkable location, where the art of winemaking flourishes amidst a stunning setting. This estate includes the prestigious, privately owned Clos de la Coulée de Serrant vineyard, which is renowned for producing some of the world’s most unique and age-worthy dry Chenin Blanc wines, produced through biodynamic farming in the Loire Valley of France. Château de la Roche aux Moines , Savennières France | Website In December 2018, just after Christmas, we had the pleasure of visiting the estate. We arrived with modest expectations, only hoping to see the old gates of the château . To our delight, they were open, inviting us into the beautiful grounds of the winery. Snow rarely falls in the Loire Valley in December, instead, the weather often brings mist and rain, covering the landscape in a soft fog. We walked through this winter scene, enjoying the quiet beauty of the season and discovering the charm of a hidden gem. We were warmly welcomed by a lovely lady who truly made our visit memorable. She generously shared her insights about the estate and invited us to savor some exceptional white wines produced on-site. We couldn't resist purchasing a couple of bottles, and to our surprise, she offered us the open bottles for tasting, ensuring they wouldn’t go to waste! While I’m unsure about the regulations for transporting open bottles in France (unlike Canada, where it’s strictly prohibited), we decided to embrace a little adventure, taking the risk with both our reputations and wallets by bringing those treasures with us. Our journey was just beginning in the stunning Loire Valley, and we were buzzing with excitement as we headed toward the enchanting Loire châteaux with some "Jolys" in our trunk. Winemaker Extraordinaire: Nicolas Joly and Biodynamic Viticulture Nicolas Joly is a significant figure in the wine industry for several reasons. As a pioneer of biodynamic viticulture, Joly converted his family estate to this method in 1984—long before it became popular or had its own Instagram hashtag. His passion for natural winemaking and commitment to honoring the land have not only made him a talented winemaker but also a kind of vinous superhero in the industry. Joly emphasizes the importance of soil health and natural cultivation methods, believing that healthy vines produce grapes of the highest quality. His philosophy is rooted in the principles of biodynamic agriculture, which harmonizes farming with the lunar calendar and incorporates natural preparations to enhance biodiversity and vitality in the vineyard. Biodynamic viticulture is a holistic approach to grape growing that treats the vineyard as a vibrant ecosystem. By combining organic practices with elements of spirituality and cosmic awareness, it completely avoids synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. Instead, it harnesses the natural dynamics of the farm and uses specific preparations that often align with lunar and planetary cycles for activities like planting and pruning. This method fosters a balanced and sustainable environment, resulting in high-quality grapes that beautifully express their unique terroir. It’s an exciting way to appreciate nature! Nicolas Joly - Credit: @ couleedeserrant Nicolas Joly's journey to becoming a prominent figure in biodynamic viticulture is truly inspiring. His story begins just one generation earlier with his parents, André, a surgeon, and his wife Denise, who came from Angers, a city in western France located beside the Maine river at the edge of the Loire Valley. Although they never intended to enter the world of viticulture, their quest for a peaceful retreat in the countryside unexpectedly led them to own a vineyard. The estate has a fascinating history, tracing back to a 12th-century Cistercian monastery, with remnants that still captivate visitors today. For centuries, its lush vineyards have been dedicated to winemaking. When the Joly family acquired the estate in the 19th century, it included several plots from the esteemed cru-level parcels of Roche aux Moines and other Savennières vineyards. However, the estate required care and attention when they took it over. Denise assumed the role of winemaker, making every effort to nurture the vineyard. Meanwhile, Nicolas traveled to the USA for his education, earning an MBA from Columbia University and building a successful career in finance with JP Morgan. Nicolas & Virginie Joly - Credit: coulee-de-serrant.com In 1976, when Nicolas returned home to support his now widowed mother, he made a wise decision: he enrolled in an oenology program in Bordeaux for two years to prepare himself. Armed with knowledge and new perspectives, Nicolas took the reins of the estate, but the real breakthrough came in the 1980s. It all changed when he discovered a fascinating book on biodynamic agriculture by the visionary philosopher Rudolf Steiner during a skiing holiday in 1981. It ignited a passion in him that transformed his approach to viticulture. Within four short years, he adopted biodynamic principles for the estate and emerged as a leading advocate for this sustainable practice. Today, Nicolas Joly's dedication to biodynamic viticulture is celebrated worldwide, now with her daughter, Virginie at his side, the domaine hid showcasing the beautiful connection between nature, care, and exceptional winemaking! Nicolas Joly has written numerous books about biodynamic wine, such as Le Vin du ciel à la terre (Wine from Sky to Earth) aimed at winegrowers, and Le Vin, la Vigne et la Biodynamie (What is Biodynamic Wine? / Biodynamic Wine Demystified) targeted at consumers and have been translated into several languages, including Spanish, German, Italian, Hungarian, Japanese and many others. Clos de la Coulée de Serrant (Monopole) The Clos de la Coulée de Serrant is a historic and highly regarded French wine estate that holds its own exclusive appellation (AOC) within the Loire Valley. This little gem is a “monopole”, fancy word to say it is a single-producer appellation, entirely owned and operated by a single family, the Jolys. The exceptional Chenin Blanc cultivated here elegantly expresses its rich terroir. The grapes are sourced from 40 to 50-year-old vines spread across 7 hectares. Cultivated since 1130, and is situated on steep slopes with a southward exposure, resting on shale and quartz soil. With remarkable intensity and complexity, this iconic limited wine captures the true essence of the estate and exhibits incredible aging potential, promising a delightful experience for years to come. The Chenin Blanc Grape The star of the show at Château de la Roche aux Moines is the Chenin Blanc grape. While Chenin Blanc is often seen as a budget-friendly(er) option, there is so much more to it! High-quality Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley is an exceptional choice that can age beautifully, making it a true hidden gem for those in the know. Its versatility is remarkable, offering a range of styles from dry to sparkling, and even sweet dessert wines. This variety is a significant strength, though it may pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with it. Lacking a single, well-known style, the grape does not have the clear brand identity that has contributed to the popularity of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. I will stop complaining and simply enjoy it until its world domination and higher prices arrive. @ couleedeserrant | La Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc is the wine grape equivalent of that friend who can switch styles effortlessly- sometimes crisp and refreshing like a cool breeze, other times sweet and indulgent like a guilty pleasure! In cool climates, such as France's Loire Valley where it originates, the focus is on mineral-driven flavors with hints of green apple, quince, lemon, and white flowers. Notable regions for this grape include Vouvray and Savennières. However, in warmer regions like South Africa, Chenin Blanc transforms into a tropical extravaganza, featuring flavors of ripe pear, peach, pineapple, and mango. Oak aging is more common in this style, which can introduce notes of vanilla and smoke. Aged Chenin Blanc can develop complex flavors of honey, baked apple, ginger, and marzipan. For dessert enthusiasts, there is botrytized Chenin Blanc, which is produced from grapes affected by "noble rot." These rich wines are concentrated with flavors of apricot, honey, and marmalade. Tasting Notes In 2024, we opened a bottle of CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2015 that we had purchased from Joly. The wine introduced us to a rich aroma with notes of glue, honey, and herbs. Upon tasting it, we were pleasantly surprised by its spiciness and smooth alcohol content. As it aired, additional aromas of leather and wood emerged, balancing the wine beautifully with hints of dried fruit and creaminess. Despite its strong alcohol content of 15%, the wine became much more enjoyable when exposed to air. Relatively speaking, this wine is not as expensive as one might expect given its quality and reputation. If you find any Joly wines in Canada, they are definitely worth trying at least once in a lifetime! Happy sipping and savouring!

Read Part 1 -The West here. My Sicilian Wine Recommendations here. In the second half of our exciting adventure, we headed to the east side of the island!  We were thrilled to cross the heart of Sicily by car, soaked in the stunning views and, well, sweat.  Did you know that Sicily is closer to the shores of Africa than to the heart of Rome? We quickly realized this as we were enveloped in heat beneath the blazing August sky. Sicily truly stands out as a treasure trove of ancient Greek architecture; it is undoubtedly one of the best-preserved sites in the world (sorry, Greece and Turkey!). From iconic landmarks to hidden gems that even Google Maps can’t locate, Sicily’s ruins are remarkably well preserved. As an archaeologist and art historian (at least in theory), I understand how exhilarating yet challenging it can be for my kids when we travel. My goal is to share and teach them about the rich tapestry of history and art that surrounds us, and Italy offers a breathtaking array of treasures! I’m thrilled that my older daughter has developed a keen interest in Greek mythology and history, thanks to Rick Riordan's inspiring "Percy Jackson & the Olympians" series. Her excitement to explore the Greek ruins was palpable, marking a wonderful first step into the world she has read about. The very hot journey from Palermo to Syracuse was positively sizzling but we made pit stops in The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento , a breathtaking expanse that offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Greek art and architecture from the region of Magna Graecia. Nestled in the rolling hills of Sicily, this archaeological site features monumental ruins, including impressive temples dedicated to gods such as Concordia, Juno, and Hercules. Surrounded by lush landscapes and golden fields, the Valley of the Temples is not only a testament to the ingenuity of ancient civilizations but also a serene and captivating destination, making it an essential stop for anyone exploring the beauty and history of Sicily. The Villa Romana del Casale, located in Piazza Armerina , a magnificent Roman villa renowned for its stunning mosaics and well-preserved ruins.The Villa is like a Pinterest board of Roman life that reveal everything from daily life shenanigans to epic mythological battles. The walls act like social media posts, sharing the glories—and possibly the dramas—of the past. It truly feels like a blast from the past, highlighting just how sophisticated the Romans were. You’ll leave with the impression that they really knew how to master feng shui in the early 4th century AD in this Sicilian hunting lodge . Fresh from our visits to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we were so eager to see real mosaics in their original settings, and they certainly didn’t disappoint! If you find yourself in these area, I wholeheartedly encourage you to visit these incredible sites. Syracuse During the second week of our Sicilian adventure, we were staying in Syracuse, in a lovely modern townhouse just outside the Belvedere district. Syracuse, the former home of Archimedes, truly captivated us - especially the Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum ( Via Vincenzo Mirabella, 31, 96100 Siracusa) , which our kids absolutely adored! Syracuse is not only steeped in history, being a significant jewel of the ancient Greek world, but it’s also one of the most stunning places I’ve ever had the joy of visiting. Exploring the city is an absolute delight! Begin your journey in the narrow streets of the old city,  Ortigia , where history comes alive. The local market was one of the best I seen not only in Sicult bit in Italy altogehter. Make it a priority to visit the magnificent  Duomo di Siracusa . This breathtaking cathedral boasts a rich history, originally serving as the Temple of Athena. You’ll be amazed to find remnants of its Doric columns and ancient walls integrated throughout the cathedral. The baroque, white-washed façade radiates beautifully under the August sun, a sight so stunning that it truly takes your breath away! (Yes, I even cried.) At the far end of Duomo Piazza, you’ll discover the charming church of Santa Lucia alla Badia . Here, behind the altar, you can admire an exquisite painting by Caravaggio . My husband and I have developed a serious case of Caravaggio fever - let’s call it "Caravaggomania!" We’re on a mission to track down his masterpieces scattered around the globe. Experts generally attribute between 60 and 80 paintings to Caravaggio, but the exact number is debated. While some lucky folks have his works hanging in their living rooms, which feels out of reach for us mortals, about half of his known paintings can be found in museums and churches. Those are our prime targets, or rather, our ultimate goal! Seeing "The Burial of Santa Lucia" in Syracuse was a highlight for us! (Update: the painting has been moved back to its original location at the Basilica di Santa Lucia al Sepolcro in Syracuse). The Neapolis Archaeological Park, which includes the ancient Greek Theatre and Roman Amphitheatre and the Ear of Dionysius  cave is also worth the visit. T aormina Taormina, Sicily's renowned resort town, is filled with lively restaurants, shops, and beautiful beaches. Although it can become quite crowded with tourists, the panoramic views of Mount Etna and the coastline from the Greek amphitheater are truly unforgettable. During our visit, Mount Etna—a majestic volcano—dramatically showcased its power by erupting. It sent plumes of ash and fiery red lava high into the sky, creating a breathtaking and humbling sight. And be sure to treat yourself to a delicious granita siciliana at Bam Bar ( Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME) - a refreshing frozen treat that you can enjoy at any time of the day, not just for breakfast as the locals typically do! We capped off our sunny day at Isola Bella beach by indulging in delicious Grilled Swordfish and the iconic Parmigiana di Melanzane al forno, all perfectly complemented by local Carricante Etna Bianco D.O.C. V al di Noto - The Baroque Towns Ragusa, Noto, and Modica, along with a few other charming towns we didn’t explore, are treasures of the Val di Noto in southeastern Sicily, proudly recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites! Celebrated for their stunning Late Baroque architecture. They were reconstructed in the late 17th century after a devastating earthquake and feature magnificent churches, elegant palaces, and unique cultural heritages. R agusa We had the pleasure of spending an entire day exploring the captivating city of Ragusa. The scenic drive from Syracuse takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, making it a perfect lead-up to a day filled with adventure. A helpful tip for fellow travelers: many churches close for lunch, so if you're arriving around noon, you might need to plan your visits for later in the afternoon, around 4 or 5 PM. We arrived at 11:00 AM, and after parking our car, we took our time strolling through the charming, steep streets. On our way to the Duomo di San Giorgio in Ragusa Ibla, we enjoyed glimpses of several smaller but incredibly beautiful churches. Unfortunately, when we reached the Duomo just before noon, we discovered it was closed for the lunch break. My husband, ever the optimist, made a valiant attempt to convince the door guard to let us in. But she was not budging - her lunch plans were sacred, and I think even the statue behind her looked a bit nervous! The exterior of the church is truly a sight to behold, standing proudly as the heart of the town. We spent a delightful afternoon eagerly anticipating the beauty that awaited us inside. As we meandered through the charming streets of Ragusa, our kids had the most wonderful time playing in the picturesque Giardino Ibleo. They were thrilled to discover not just more churches, but also some inviting Italian slides and balance beams! After savoring a delicious lunch, we were excited to finally explore the church. Although the interior didn’t quite meet our lofty expectations, it couldn’t diminish our overall appreciation of the day. Ragusa is split into two captivating areas: the historic Ragusa Ibla and the elevated Ragusa Superiore, separated by the breathtaking Valle dei Ponti. Before wrapping up our visit, we stopped by the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista in Ragusa Superiore. Its stunning interior and majestic façade made the perfect backdrop for capturing memories of our journey in this beautiful city! M odica We arrived in the enchanting town of Modica as evening fell, and it turned out to be the perfect timing for dinner! We discovered a true culinary treasure at Contrade Sicilian Food Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of the finest meals of our entire Italian adventure. Tucked away in a charming alley, this gem is a proud participant in the Sicilian slow food movement, and it did not disappoint. We also enjoyed Modica’s famous chocolate and its delightful creations, including some with alcohol, such as an exquisite chocolate liqueur. The Cioccolato di Modica, recognized as an Italian P.A.T. (Traditional Agri-food Product), boasts a rich heritage based on ancient Aztec recipes smuggled into Italy by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it’s like a delicious time machine for your taste buds! N oto Our journey continued with an afternoon visit to Noto, just a scenic 40-minute drive from Syracuse. This vibrant city definitely had a more touristy vibe, especially in August, buzzing with both visitors and locals. We climbed to the rooftop of Chiesa Santa Chiara, where we were treated to a stunning view of Noto—a mesmerizing showcase of baroque architecture with its golden sandstone churches and palaces. The magnificent Noto Cathedral on Corso Vittorio Emanuele and several other baroque churches were easily accessible, adding to the charm of our visit. To top off our experience, we even had a delightful encounter with a Sicilian wedding at sunset! Before leaving Noto, I highly recommend stopping by Caffè Sicilia ( Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, 96017 Noto SR) . This iconic café, run by the Assenza family since 1892 on the main street is known for serving some of the best gelato you could ever taste. Their unique and intense granita ice cream flavours are a must-try! Our adventure in Sicily was not just a fascinating journey; it also served as the perfect warm-up for the exciting travels that lay ahead. We wrapped up our Sicilian experience before diving into the wonders of three weeks in Rome—another incredible blend of Antiquity and Baroque! B est of Sicily We were enchanted by the vibrant colours, inviting aromas, and the stunning blend of architectural styles. The unique traditions and warm hospitality of the Sicilian people made our time there truly unforgettable. Our Hilarious Adventure in Sicily (A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 and 9) 1. Culture: - Piazza Armerina - Ancient Greek ruins of Segesta and Agrigento - Baroque towns: Noto, Modica, and Ragusa - The Norman cathedral of Monreale - Ortygia (checking out the Archimedes Museum) - Syracuse Cathedral - Archaeological Museum of Syracuse 2. Beaches: - San Vito lo Capo - Mondello 3. Restaurants: - La Baronia in Caccamo - Contrade Sicilian Food in Modica 4. Markets: - Mercato di Siracusa - Mercato il Capo in Palermo (we liked it better than the famous Ballarò) 5. Granita: - Bam Bar in Taormina - Caffè Sicilia in Noto (where granita is basically a food group) 6. Espresso: - Bar del Corso in Palermo R egrets 1. Not staying in an agriturismo: an independently-owned farm that offers accommodation for an authentic rural experience. 2. Starting our Sicilian stay in Palermo: in hindsight, I would begin our journey in Siracusa and explore the eastern side of the island first. Once we were "acclimated" to Sicily, we could then visit Palermo. 3. Failing to connect with enough locals. 4. Missing out on the Marsala wine region and the province of Trapani. >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 1

If this title isn’t self-explanatory, no other place has inspired me to explore more than Sicily. I have visited Italy many times, but I never traveled further south than Rome. Sicily was certainly uncharted territory. This time, after spending an amazing month in Northern Italy, exploring the charm of Milan, Florence, and Venice, and the Amalfi Coast (the usual suspects for a typical Italian holiday), we ( A Family of Four with Two Energetic Kids, Ages 7 & 9) were eager to discover what Sicily had in store for us. Sicily’s incredible position between Europe and Africa has made it a melting pot of cultures for centuries, which gives the island its unique, vibrant character. Though it boasts a rich tapestry of heritage, it still often gets overlooked or left out of the typical Italian itinerary by many travellers in favour of more popular spots. Our two-week exploration of this captivating island in Italy's deep south left me eager for more, and I am not just talking about the delicious food—arancini, cannoli, and granitas! Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is a treasure waiting to be explored! To truly immerse ourselves, we picked two wonderful base towns: vibrant Palermo on the west side for the first week and charming Syracuse on the east for the second week. Palermo We rented a beautiful Airbnb in the historic Kalsa neighborhood of Palermo. Our apartment was perfectly situated above the scenic promenade and the stunning terrace of Mura delle Cattive, dating back to the late 17th century, offering breathtaking views of the sea. Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, renowned as one of Sicily's most esteemed novelists, and best known for his masterpiece The Leopard (adapted into a celebrated film in 1963 and has recently been reimagined as a Netflix series) lived in the Butera 28 apartments, just a stone's throw away, until his death in 1957. The promenade, once a stunning gem of Palermo, faced destruction during World War II, like so much of the city. Thankfully, it began its incredible journey of restoration in 1997 and reopened to the public the very next year! It’s hard to believe that such a beautiful landmark lay forgotten for decades, but now it shines brighter than ever. As you walk along the revitalized promenade, it’s easy to imagine the elegantly dressed aristocrats from Lampedusa's era stepping out of their carriages for evening strolls. The terraces may be private, but the promenade is bursting with cozy spots where you can sip a drink or indulge in some ice cream. The place is always buzzing with laughter and chatter from everyone, from sprightly 90-year-olds telling wild stories about the good old days to babies in strollers who may just be plotting world domination. It's a lively scene, even at midnight, as if the entire town collectively decided that sleep is overrated! 1. Porta Felice; 2. Marionettes at the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino; 3. Fish stall at Il Capo market; 4. Palermo street with view of the Cathedral; 5. Chess players in Monreale; 6. Palermo street with laundry hanging on lines; 7. Chiosco Vicari Piazza Giuseppe Verdi; 8. Barista at Bar del Corso,Via Vittorio Emanuele, Palermo | Credit : Sipandsavour.blog Palermo, the vibrant capital and main port of its enchanting island, offers a captivating blend of decadence and raw energy that is sure to leave an impression! While it might feel a bit overwhelming at times, especially when traveling with small children, the city has a charm that beckons exploration. Chaos is everywhere in Palermo. For motorists, traffic signs are mere suggestions. Once beautiful buildings are now crumbling and covered in graffiti. Stray dogs follow you down the poetic alleys, and self-proclaimed “security guards” promise to keep your vehicle safe—for a few Euros—as if the elderly men sitting in front of each building all day weren’t enough to ensure the area’s safety. The piazzas, filled with bustling restaurants, are always crowded, and guests seem happy to be seated outside in the dark alleys at tables that the staff have just set up for them. Losing yourself in a new city is the best way to truly experience it. To feel Palermo's pulse while enjoying unexpected culinary delights, be sure to visit a couple of street markets. They offer everything from mysterious seafood to stigghiola skewers made from lamb intestines! Sicilian Marionettes - Opera dei Pupi For a wonderful family-friendly outing, be sure to visit the Museo Internazionale delle Marionette Antonio Pasqualino (Piazza Antonio Pasqualino, 5, 90133 Palermo). This museum features a fascinating collection of marionettes from around the world and has the potential to become a must-see attraction with some added support. The incredible collection of traditional Sicilian puppets is truly a sight to behold! Anyone visiting Sicily will undoubtedly notice these charming marionettes in local shops. While they might initially seem like typical tourist trinkets, these puppets are, in fact, vital symbols of Sicilian cultural identity. They play an integral role in the Opera dei Pupi, a captivating form of Sicilian entertainment that dates back to at least the 15th century. My youngest daughter couldn’t resist spending her entire trip budget on a replica puppet—a stunning Angelica dressed in beautiful turquoise chiffon and armor. An Eclectic Architectural Journey Amidst a touch of dirt and rubble, this island shines as a captivating treasure trove of ancient, medieval, and Baroque architecture, sure to enchant anyone who explores its remarkable beauty! Palermo is a delightful gem, bursting predominantly with breathtaking Baroque architecture intertwined with enchanting medieval elements! Back in the 10th century, Robert Guiscard of the House of Hauteville embarked on an incredible adventure, leaving Normandy alongside his brother Roger to conquer Sicily from the Saracens. The Normands ended up staying for 130 years, creating stunning monuments in the unique Norman-Sicilian style . Today, these architectural wonders are still wowing visitors, making it one historic trip you won't want to miss! Must-see sites These include the awe-inspiring Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral of Palermo , the Monreale Cathedral (a half-day trip that is absolutely worthwhile), Cefalù (perfect for a day trip that pairs beautifully with some beach time or exploring the medieval castle of Caccamo ), and Messina (the essential port connecting Sicily to mainland Italy). Each of these locations is a testament to the rich tapestry of Sicilian history, and I couldn’t recommend them more. Beaches When you're in Italy with kids, a few beach days (or half-days) are non-negotiable—because let’s face it: nothing keeps the little ones happy like sun, sand, and splashing in the waves! Sicily has a whopping 1,000 kilometres (that’s about 600 miles for those not on the ‘kilometre’ train) of coastline, so you’re in for a treat. My favourite beach was hands down Mondello : clear, beautiful water and soft sandy cove beach just west of Palermo. It seemed very popular with young Sicilians and tourists as well and a fun place to get away from the chaos of Palermo and catch some rays. In a close second is San Vito lo Capo , a picturesque coastal town that’s about a two-hour drive from Palermo. It’s like a scene from a postcard, nestled under Monte Cofano, a dramatic limestone cliff that looks like nature’s crown jewel. You can also explore nearby coves and the Zingaro nature reserve.  Don't miss the stunning Lungomare di Cefalù ! Just a short distance from town, it offers breathtaking views that you'll absolutely love. With all these options, you’re bound to find a spot that’s just right for soaking up the sun and pretending you don’t hear the kids arguing over who gets the last sandcastle bucket! >> My Unfinished Business with Sicily - Part 2

Despite being a peak summer, en plus Saturday, we were delighted to discover the Beaujolais hills nearly all to ourselves, giving us the exhilarating sensation of being VIPs exploring a department store after hours. As we journeyed north on the Autoroute du Soleil , a sense of joy washed over us while others were caught in traffic heading south toward the Côte d'Azur and Spain. It was hard not to feel a bit smug seeing caravans of French, Dutch, and Belgian tourists inching along! Caveat lector: this blog is more than just about food and wine! In addition to my love for wine, I have a deep passion for art and the history of art and architecture (especially old, very old ones) —so deep, in fact, that I hold a somewhat impractical degree in the field. If you come across my posts about art from various wine regions (like the one below), I hope they pique your interest. But if they don’t? No hard feelings—I won't judge!   While starting an art history blog is tempting, let’s be honest: the only thing scarcer than my writing would be my blog’s readership! Cluny Abbey I initially worried that Sunday might lack excitement as we were set to visit Cluny Abbey, a true gem for enthusiasts of medieval art history ( moi! ). To our absolute delight, we were greeted by the vibrant charm of Cluny, with its picturesque Romanesque houses and quaint medieval streets bustling with life. Cluny, originally a Benedictine monastery established in 910, once stood as the heart of a monastic "empire" that boasted 10,000 monks across Europe at its peak. The church complex was even the largest Christian building in the world until St. Peter's Basilica was reconstructed in the 16th century. In the early 12th century, the order faced some challenges due to leadership changes. While the Papal Schism in the 14th century further strained the organization, it was the French Revolution that ultimately led to its suppression in France. The once-magnificent monastery at Cluny suffered partly from demolition, with its stones repurposed as a quarry until 1823. However, there’s good news for visitors today! You can still admire the impressive remnants of one transept of the abbey church, along with the elegant 15th-century residential quarters for the abbots and the charming 18th-century convent buildings. Even in their present condition, these ruins speak to the abbey's former glory and scale. I highly encourage you to climb to the top of the 11th-century defensive tower that is part of the Abbey. Although the 120 steps may seem daunting, the breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding landscape will reward your effort! The tower, known as La Tour des Fromages, literally means "Cheese Tower." It was previously called La Tour des Fèves, which translates to "The Bean Tower"- not quite as appetizing, right? The tower has a history as rich as a triple-cream Délice de Bourgogne; however, it's not named after the dairy product for that reason. In the 19th century, a clever woman transformed the tower into a cheese-drying facility. And just like that, it went from being a fortress to a cheese factory! Now, instead of guarding against invaders, it stands proudly as a monument to the glory of cheese - because who needs beans when you can have brie? Here are a couple of fantastic places you won’t want to miss: Le Potin Gourmand Restaurant - 4 Pl. du Champ de Foire, 71250 Cluny, France Nestled in a beautifully preserved 18th-century pottery workshop at the edge of the medieval town, this restaurant serves delightful classic Burgundy cuisine with a modern twist. Au Plaisir Dit Vin - Wine Shop - 19 Rue Mercière, 71250 Cluny, France With a knowledgeable staff eager to assist, you'll find an intriguing and high-quality selection of wines and spirits all tailored to fit every budget.

We had a few weeks of solo time, and a weekend getaway to the Beaujolais wine region felt like the perfect escape without the kids. Nestled just north of Lyon, Beaujolais is renowned for its eponymous French AOC wine. While it officially falls under the Burgundy wine region, Beaujolais sets itself apart with its distinct climate, grape varieties, and rich history. In recent years, the region and its wines have gained popularity, emerging from the shadow of Burgundy to capture the attention of wine enthusiasts. Villefranche-sur-Saône Our journey began in Villefranche-sur-Saône, the capital of the region. We explored a lively indoor market where we picked up everything needed for the perfect picnic: creamy goat cheese, fresh vegetables, and some local specialties with names that sounded far too fancy to pronounce - like grattons (crispy fried pork bacon) and fromage de tête (head cheese) - the kind of delicacies that makes you question all your life choices. Also, let's be real: there is nothing quite like the delightful chaos of a Saturday market in a French town! Oingt Next, we ventured to Oingt, located in the beautiful Pierres Dorées (Golden Stones) region. Often praised as one of France's most picturesque villages, Oingt features charming narrow streets, quaint galleries, and ochre-yellow stone houses that transport you back to medieval times. We savoured our lunch - the exquisite yet questionable market finds - atop a hill, surrounded by the breathtaking rolling hills and vineyards that make Beaujolais so special. From lovely Oingt, we headed directly to the epic Beaujolais Crus regions - this is where our wine adventure truly begins! Unlike in Burgundy and Alsace, the term "cru" in Beaujolais refers to entire wine-producing areas rather than individual vineyards. In the Beaujolais Cru lineup, which is listed from south to north, we have an impressive selection:  Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Juliénas, and the charmingly named Saint-Amour. You might notice that many producers shy away from putting "Beaujolais" on their labels. Why, you ask? Because they want to maintain a classy vibe and keep une certainedistance from those mass-produced Nouveau wines. In fact, vineyards in the cru villages are not allowed to produce Nouveau at all. Morgon We visited The Caveau du Cru Morgon that serves as the heart of the Morgon appellation's winemakers. This cellar welcomed us with its extensive collection of Morgon wines, showcasing the rich diversity and unique characteristics of the region. As we browsed through the carefully curated selection, we discovered great wines at a range of price points, allowing us to experience the exceptional quality and craftsmanship that Morgon is known for. The atmosphere was lively and educational, making it a delightful place for both seasoned connoisseurs and newcomers alike. Moulin-à-Vent Quelle surprise! In Moulin-à-Vent there is indeed a moulin à vent, a windmill, that demands to be photographed! Seriously, if you don’t take a picture, does it even exist? It’s like the Mona Lisa of windmills - it needs its moment in the spotlight! Juliénas We concluded our visit to Beaujolais at Le Cellier de la Vieille Église in Juliénas -  mais oui , it's a wine cellar with a twist as it is in a former church! After being deconsecrated in 1868, this holy haven became a shrine to wine, thanks to the enthusiastic efforts of Victor Peyret, an incredibly generous local who obviously loved his grapes. Today, it’s the go-to spot for Juliénas residents and visitors, especially during the annual Wine Festival, where the only sin is not having a good time. Picture wine lovers clinking glasses, sharing stories, and trying to remember where they parked their deux chevaux ! The Prize is awarded to the top advocates of the Juliénas vintage - journalists, writers, and artists - all of whom are casually judged by Bacchus, the slightly tipsy god of wine, who definitely knows how to throw a party. Cheers to that!

“Oh gosh, it’s so hard to bring you a wine. You two know so much about wine — what on earth can I bring?” Listen, don’t WINE! I’ll tell you exactly how to make me happy. Bring me an aromatic white wine  bursting with terpenes  — those magical, volatile compounds that make wine smell like an expensive vacation. If it floats like perfume, flirts with flowers, radiates citrus, and murmurs of fresh herbs carried on a Mediterranean breeze — that’s the one. Still uncertain? Very well — let’s be more precise. In most cases, grape varieties do appear on wine labels , but how prominently they’re shown depends on the country and producer style. And remember: wines with high terpenic content can be anything but predictable — from sumptuously sweet to elegantly bone-dry , always aromatic, always a little enchanting. Here’s a quick breakdown by grape: High Terpenic Wines Muscat / Moscato (incl. Zibibbo!!) The terpene superstar . Expect orange blossom, grape candy, rose, lychee, jasmine. In Italy, “Moscato” is almost always on the label (e.g. Moscato d’Asti) - like being kissed by a sparkling peach. Sweet and playful, yes, though I must confess: the bubbly style isn’t quite my glass of wine. “Zibibbo” appears on Sicilian wines (especially Pantelleria) - a summer opera aria, all sunshine, perfume, and a little dramatic flourish at the end - which I really love! In France, it may appear as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains — which can be dry, sweet, or even sparkling — or as Muscat d’Alsace, typically made in a dry, elegant style. In Hungary, it’s known as Sárga Muskotály ( Yellow Muscat ): equally aromatic, yet often crafted in a refined, still expression that allows those lovely terpenes to truly sing. Gewürztraminer Intensely floral, lychee, rose petal, tropical spice. Typically labeled by grape everywhere it’s made - bold, heady, and gloriously too much (in the best way!) Riesling Especially aromatic styles. Lime blossom, petrol, citrus oil, stone fruit. Always proudly listed in Germany, Austria, Australia, the U.S., etc. In Alsace, France as well if is made of 100% Riesling grapes - perfection in liquid form: dry or sweet, it's sharp, and smarter than everyone at the table. Torrontés Perfumed: rose, orange blossom, tropical fruit. Always listed in Argentina (it’s their signature grape) - ¡Re bueno! a f loral flirt grown in high-altitude areas of the Argentinian Andes. Viognier Apricot, peach, honeysuckle, jasmine. Usually listed, especially in single-varietal bottlings. In Frane it is listed with Rhône Valley, AOP wines (a very good 'lower' tier), but not in Condrieu: Wines from this appellation are legally required to be 100% Viognier, so the label will read "Condrieu," but not necessarily "Viognier." - the fancy stuff : all apricot silk and honeysuckle charm, effortlessly sipping in the VIP lounge of white wines. Malvasia Aromatic, floral, candied citrus. Often included in the name ( Malvasia delle Lipari , Malvasia Bianca ), but not always if it’s part of a blend. Often a sweet wine - l ike your sweet, eccentric aunt — floral, a little nostalgic, and always wearing something glittery. Moderately Terpenic Wines Albariño Peach, citrus blossom, salty sea breeze. Always listed in Spain (Rías Baixas) and elsewhere - the zesty lovechild of a peach and a sea breeze, proudly made in Galicia, Spain. Fiano Honeyed, pine resin, herbs. Usually listed on Italian labels, but sometimes embedded in the regional name rather than highlighted ( Fiano di Avellino DOCG ) - like honey drizzled over a pine tree at an Italian picnic. Chenin Blanc Apple blossom, quince, honeycomb. Commonly found on labels from the New World, particularly South Africa, as well as on labels from its home (and hopefully mine one day!) in the Loire Valle y - refined, eccentric, and worth every golden sip! Sauvignon Blanc While thiols do most of the heavy lifting, terpenes support citrus / floral notes. Always appears on the label (Loire Valle y, France, New Zealand, Chile, etc.) - zippy, sassy, and totally unapologetic. Arneis White flower, pear, almond. Appears on Piedmont labels ( Roero Arneis DOCG ), but not common outside Italy - charming and delicate, the introvert of Italian whites, a rare bird! In short: Yes, you’ll usually see the grape name on bottles of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Viognier, Torrontés, and Chenin Blanc. For the more traditional Italian grapes (Fiano, Arneis, Malvasia, Zibibbo), the grape name often appears alongside a regional designation — but it’s there! If you still reading this and want to sound nerdily fabulous, these are the common wine terpenes: Linalool  → orange blossom, citrus Geraniol  → rose Nerol  → lemon verbena Citronellol  → citrus / geranium α-Pinene  → pine, resin So next time you panic in a wine shop, just mutter the word “terpenes.” If the clerk nods knowingly, you’ve found your people. If not… well, you’ve got a great story — and probably a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Happy sipping and savouring!